I saw in another video where all you needed to do was use a 1/16” allen wrench to adjust it through the small hole in the bottom. He had the same vibration. The guy didn’t take anything apart.
Sorry I skipped so much, there is so much youtube content on recapping things I figured people would cringe at taking too much time on it. Appreciate the feedback!
I found a 300 at Goodwill this morning and now I'm here watching your wonderful video. 🎉 I don't have a movie to try out yet but it seems to want to eject something every time I power on. I'm checking it out later tonight. I'm just jazzed to own one.
Great video! I have my late old man's 1982 TA-AX4, and the lights don't work either. I will find someone who can do the fix for me and show this video. Thank you very much. Just watched this video with my PC hooked up on the TA-AX4 (and Bose AM 5 series 2).
Genius! I never thought about putting the switch there. I personally will cut in a switch to the side of the network door since I use SD2SP2 on the side you used.
Great video, sadly I can't find the active spoiler for my Supra anywhere. But hey 23:36 how you managed it to pull that handbrake so high, holy cow I'd repair that 😅
I'm looking to sell this car now and the spoiler won't add any value to the sale so I would be willing to remove it and sell it to you if you are interested.
YT doesn't let me share links but you can find them on ebay by searching "4x Meter lamp bulb 8V 30 mA axial leads" they shipped from Czech Republic. Happy fixing!
Same problem with mine. You might think that it is rubbing or running too low, but what happens is that when energized it floats and rotates what I did was take the metal piece out of the center. Using a quarter inch drill bit and cleaned out that center hole on the plate so it moves freely up and down the metal shaft.
Ah, the Spice Orange GameCube. The hipster's favorite. For those who like this color, cool, but it seems like a lot of people get it just because it's less common. Personally, I don't like the color and there's no nostalgia with it. All the nostalgia for me is with the purple, black or (my personal favorite) silver.
Hey Dan, great video! So... I'm studying 3D modeling and I found your video while searching for a cool old TV set to model and add to a future scene I'm planning. I really loved this Transitone portable one, the problem is that it is very hard to find any info about it online and since it wasn't commercialized here in Brazil which makes it even harder to find an old service manual to help me on more specific info. Could you help me by sending some pictures of it, or if you know somewhere I can find more info bout it online? Cheers!
I never bother filing in my warranty card because I was given a warranty card. A separate warranty was given at the store and I could go directly to the New Brighton Mn manufacturer. TVs were discontinued because they received a exclusive contract to produce monitors for the defense department.
Oh interesting! I didn't know that, thanks for sharing that tidbit of history. Awesome to see someone who remembers these old sets. This one in particular seems like it was built a lot better than the average set and has a really unique layout internally.
There are two pots accessible from the bottom. You can't see the pots because they are mounted on the other side of the board but there are holes you can stick a very small screw driver through to adjust them. You should see hsize and vsize with little holes beneath them. if you shine a light into the hole, you can see the orientation of the adjustment. Try to be careful when adjusting though, the adjustment screws are cheap plastic and strip easily if you aren't careful!
Hi im struggling to figure out how the oem switch works. Do you have pin outs for what they do to use with the TRL diagram? Many thanks and great video, hope to get mine going soon but have to make the harness
Unfortunately, the OEM switch is a momentary switch and is intended to interact with a computer module and some code so it doesn't work like the DPST switch the TRL diagram uses. I had to modify the OEM switch to remove the springs internally and do the wire trace cutting so that I could remove the "momentary" behavior. Since all my stuff was fried by whoever sold me my set, I didn't have any issues with cutting/modifying my stuff but if yours is all working you might take issue to this approach.
You can also heat up the chips and they may come back to life. I did it on a RCA STJ 300 and also on a problem audio chip on a stereo receiver and it worked.
I didn't record what the measurements were unfortunately :( That would have been a helpful tip for people. However, in retrospect, if I didn't already have that hole cut for the firewall I would take a path through the passenger side. Its much shorter to go through the passenger side and all of that wire is actually kind of heavy. Unless you already had a hole cut there I would recommend going through the passenger side to save on unneeded weight (probably how Toyota did it too)
That's an very early 1992 Genesis according to your serial number has the Produced by or under licensed by Sega screen before game startup. Someone pieced this set together brother! Regardless it's still a great Genesis model 1 which probably came with Sonic 1 when it was new. I know because I have this exact model 1 mines a VA6 and mines actually from 1991 can tell by second digit of the serial number is year manufactured. Altered Beast ones from 1989-1990 didn't have that TMSS screen when turned on, other that that they're identical hardware wise internally.
@@the-dan3974 true! But at least you still got a good Genesis. Could been worse you opened the box and got a VA7 model 1 with the awful sound and saturated picture quality LOL. Believe the one you got was pretty much last of the good ones which is odd that in 92 they'd have with High Definition Graphics yet! Most from 1992 early 1993 were VA7 and Genesis model 2 units with Sonic 2 sets. But none less you have the Ext. Port in the rear so it's a good one with good sound. 👍
After reading your comment I just had to check out my system. And I'm proud to say that the first 2 digits of my model 1 are 39.Which I'm assuming the 9 is for 1989. Which sounds about right for buying it in late 1989 if I remember correctly.
Quick update: ended up wiring it up in the first schematic that was labeled “TRL Performance” and it worked fine with the modified switch. the LED hook up is pin2 hooked up to 12v and pin4 goes to the “UP” circuit, which will light up when the “DOWN” button is engaged. Note if the system is hot wired to the battery and you don’t retract the lip in the “up” position the LED will stay on and drain your battery slowly, so either tap something that’ll handle the amperage when ignition is on or remember to keep the switch engaged in “up” when you leave the car sitting for long periods of time. Lot of good info in this video which I’m sure both way works but ultimately the first schematic was much simpler and way less wiring and space taken as I plan to box the relays and leave it outside of the car and just extend the switch into the car.
Awesome! I'm glad you got yours going! Good to know that first schematic does work for you. Looks like as I suspected, it didn't work for me because my components all had damage done to them before I got them. I'll make sure to update the description to say this wacky method was only needed because my stuff was all broken. Enjoy your spoiler!
I absolutely remember struggling with this too! If I remember correctly, there's little plastic tabs on the back of the case on the side with the vertical PCB. The vertical PCB needs to slot between them perfectly otherwise it won't fit back together. If that's not the issue I can take mine apart again and remind myself so we can get a good answer :)
about to do the install myself and was wondering was there any extra hardware required to mount the actual frame to the chassis or were there existing bolts and nuts? anything else needed? currently compiling a list of what hardware is needed to mount it. Thanks and awesome video!
You do need four pretty decently sized bolts to bolt the spoiler frame onto the car. My spoiler came with the bolts so I'm not sure what they were. No nuts needed. There are pre-tapped bolt holes on all markets to attach an active spoiler so you don't need to drill/tap anything for that. The worst part for me was that I didn't have the active spoiler version of the plastic under tray. Thankfully many years ago I bought a non-active spoiler one brand new that I unfortunately had to hack up quite a bit to fit but it is still an aspect of the install I'm really not proud of. If you don't have either the active spoiler under tray or a spare non-active version to cut up you'll want to really think about whether or not you still want to do the install. Hopefully you have it! Kinda a bummer all the active-spoiler plastics were discontinued forever ago :(
@@the-dan3974 hey getting around to the install finally and basically gonna try and wire it exactly how you did but trying to figure out how you wired the switch, particularly the actual board part. not following why the red wire is bridged and another is severed for the yellow wire? so this leads to adding another wire for an unassigned pin from the switch harness that connects to #3 wire on the motor diagram? thanks.
@@tianbo I recall there being a common ground between the two circuits in the factory wiring but that wouldn't work for this setup since we want independent circuits for this application. The cut trace was to separate those two circuits. For the wire jumping, you are correct. I used one of the unassigned pins to serve as the second circuit. One important thing I forgot to note is my factory switch also had a blown trace (similar to the motor) on it from the previous owner who did something dumb so you might not need to make the same modifications I did if yours doesn't have a blown trace. The whole idea though is so that you can isolate the up and down buttons so they can be controlled independently if that makes sense.
@@markmathias9240 Not yet, my friend who owns it hasn't ordered the next parts that might fix it. The power regulators are what we're going to try next.
It is very possible yours could have the same solder joint issues mine had. You might have luck wiggling the RCA jack with it plugged in if its a bad joint. Otherwise I know the volume wheel is also kinda brittle so it could maybe have maybe broken there too. If its not either of those I would check if the speaker measures any ohms with a multimeter. If its open then the speaker is for sure bad.
Yep! the GameBoy Player is region free. The discs however are not and since I have the Japanese GBplayer disc I need to have mine in "Japan Mode" to use my GBplayer. I use "America Mode" for all my NTSC games the rest of the time.
@@legendaryziggs Good question! The 3 wires that indicate the end of travel signal were 14ga and the 2 wires that carry the current to the motors were 12ga. Probably could have gone smaller on both but I wasn't sure how much current the motors would need. Safer than sorry I suppose.
@@the-dan3974 3rd time I am trying to comment this, youtube keeps deleting >:( So I am trying to figure out the DC flow for the lastest diagram you showed but I can't wrap my head around where the power comes in from for the motor. Some arrows also point in opposite directions... I want to share an image here but youtube keeps killing the comment... Can I speak with you elsewhere please?
@@legendaryziggs Sorry it's confusing the arrows were for my own brain trying to track which direction(s) the electricity can potentially flow. The output of the 1st two relays on the right side are what eventually power the spoiler motor once they pass through the 2nd two relays on the left. The job of the right two relays is to flip the polarity of the circuit when the spoiler switch is pressed (either up or down). But since we don't just want to constantly run the motor we need to have something that cuts power to the motor when the motor reaches end of travel. This is the job of the two relays on the left. They only allow power from the first two relays to reach the motor while end of travel has not been reached on either side of the motor. When "Up" is pressed, as long as up end of travel is not reached, power will flow to the motor until end of travel is reached. Same with "Down". If you have a discord I can hop in I'd be happy to chat more!
Did your motor idle like that stock? Sounds like after you installed the billet flywheel your ignition timing is slightly retarded. You did say you removed an ignition advance box. Your motor should rev up super fast. Faster than you can push the pedal. You should loosen the black bolts on the flywheel and turn it clockwise a tiny bit then tighten the bolts back to mechanically advance your timing.. if you haven’t already..
Thanks for the helpful comment! It did not idle like that stock, before I did the flywheel change it ran like butter. Somehow however, it randomly started running really well again! I was working on it with some friends while at the race track and we were messing around with trying to modify the throttle to open more so it would rev higher. After we made our adjustments it started to run like normal again. My only thought is maybe when I put it back together after the flywheel change I attached the governor/throttle linkage incorrectly and that was causing the rough idle. That's my best guess but that doesn't make much sense. Either way, its running fantastic now!
Hi. I bought a spice orange GameCube. It does not have a switch on it. It plays USA games but the menu is still in Japanese. When a memory card is inserted, it asks to initialize format the card. Also sometimes the error code will pop up "An error has occurred Turn the power off and refer to the Nintendo Gamecube instruction booklet for further instructions". I want the system to play USA games, keep an English language menu and want that error to stop showing up here n there. Can you tell me what might be going on and how to fix it please ? Do you think it's a half way done mod gone wrong ? Thank you. Anybody knowledgeable please reply soon.
I think what is likely going on is the drive was region modded. When someone does the solder mod as shown in this video, the menu language changes to that region. For your error message, you can try increasing the intensity of the laser as shown in this video. If that has already been done by the previous owner, you might still be able to squeeze some more out of it still, but the drive has likely reached the end of it's life
Reverend Cleophus James: DO YOU SEE THE LIGHT? 35:07 Elwood: What light? Reverend Cleophus James: HAVE YOU SEEEEN THE LIGHT? Jake: YES! YES! JESUS H. TAP-DANCING CHRIST... I HAVE SEEN THE LIGHT!
