I watched a video from a tool mfr on milling here on YT at a trade show. They showed how much stronger and more accurate a mill was using plunge cuts. So, if you have a limited machine consider using as many plunge cuts as are needed to get the job done then follow up with cleanup pass(es). This will save the most time and keep the loads within the range of the machine. No matter what size the machine is they all have limitations. Now on to the dials. That's classic, it's using a metric leadscrew. No surprises there, it's from China. The mfr is giving the imperial equivalent. However, it will only properly indicate within a single turn. The same would be true if the leadscrews were imperial and you were working in metric dimensions. I learned this the hard way. After giving the situation a closer look that's when my lightbulb lit up. This brings rise to my topic. DON'T BE CHEAP buy a DRO system. If you're hell bent on counting dial turns, then a least put resetable counters on the dial shafts. When my DRO system died and I had to revert back to dials it's easy to skip a turn or get interrupted etc etc. I replaced my dead DRO system and am looking forward when the installation will be completed. So, no matter what size machine you have always work within it's working range and or learn, as a YTber said below, PATIENCE. Be thankful we have available to us these wonderful machines and you can actually buy them for a reasonable price. The best part is that you don't have to design, cast and fabricate your own machine. Consider if you had these kinds of machines in a shop even just 50 yrs ago. You'd be the talk of the industry. So, yep, score one or both of these machines for your shop and start making chips. My shameless plug for a CAD pgm is VIACAD. No subscription, no limitation on how much money you make before you have to buy. I've been supporting them for years and I love the features and can draw anything. It can analyze a design for 3D printing and can add supports as needed. That's all the wind I have at this time. Thx for your time.
My mini mill was exactly as good and useful as I thought it would be. It works excellent for small parts, and really slow for large cuts. If you know what you're about, you can do perfectly good work.
Finally, someone posts a video on this sort of accessory. I have been looking at these for a while now, but have delayed getting one because of the uncertainties regarding actually making it work. Nice job!
Thank you! Yeah it’s a remarkably capable setup once everything gets tightened down. Just need to be patient with it and go slow and you can get some really good results!
"spring washer " oh so fucking sad ... spat my coffee half way across the desk , thank you for that fantastic bit of wit . great videos by the way , and canadian fella makes it much more interesting . thanks , keep it up
About 10 years ago I bought a Sieg SX2p - this is like the SX2, but with an larger table, and brushless DC motor/belt drive. I got fed up cranking the x axis, so decided to motorise it. The cheap way was a stepper motor+driver+spare PC+linuxCNC. It worked great, but tempted me to do a similar job on the y axis. Once I had done that I got a large circular slab of aluminium for use as a high vacuum baseplate and trepanned a hole for fitting a diffusion pump. linxCNC meant I could mill a nice circle, but I still had to feed the zed axis manually. So, I CNC-d the z-axis. I then added an A-axis, and cut some gears. A mini-mill is very useful in a home workshop, and can do many things so long as cuts are small enough. With CNC and a camera/display for monitoring progress while one relaxes in an armchair with a beer or La Tache '90 the cuts can be extremely fine, but relaxing (yes - I know from experience!). But I have learned lessons - and am now returning crank handles to the axes - but using rotary encoders - to produce the intuitive feel of a conventional mill. I am doing the same with my lathe, and will be able to discard my compound and use CNC to do the clever bit. As for tool collecting, taking up watchmaking has meant I have been able to collect all sorts of previously unknown tools - the latest being an vintage staking set.
4 jaw-independent chuck will solve most of the eccentricity problems. Then use soft jaws to grip the shaft. Soft bits of Aluminium can do the trick. Don't use copper as it work hardens unless you soften it quite often. Brass is also good but expensive. The least known trick when machining Aluminium is use Kerosene and use a small brush to brush it on. You will not cause a fire but remove the aluminum swarf and kerosene and do not leave it lying around especially on rags. I would use HSS to cut aluminum and use 300 feet per minute to set the correct speed. The formula for machining different materials is feet per minute times 4 Divided by the diameter of the material. So if you are turning aluminum with a diameter of 40 mm, then convert to inches = 1.1/2"Dia. For Aluminium it's about 3 times faster than for mild steel = 300 feet per minute x 4 (4 is the Common Denominator for this Formula) 1200 RPMs but we must then divide the RPMS by the actual diameter of Aluminium to be turned which 1.5 " to get you RPMS. so 1200 RPMs divided by 1.5" = 800 RPMs using a sharp HSS tool with a neutral to slightly negative rake and brush on Kero or CRC also. when cutting threads better to put on the thread bevel before machining before cutting thread. Your clamping material was not thick enough to clamp your dividing head as I noticed one bending. There is a hell of a lot more knowledge that goes into using a metal lathe properly. With stick out on a lathe where practicable is to use a center in the end of a shaft, if it extends out of the chuck by 2/3s the length of the chuck jaws Now you can teach me to use CAD with my lesson to you about machining. LOL Just hope it helps as there is great danger when machining materials even on very small lathes if things are not secured properly as great forces are exerted from cutting pressures.
Get a small brass or lead hammer to make adjustments by tapping. The rubber mallet has too much bounce and makes it difficult to judge the proper amount of force.
Thanks.. I got one with a solid z.. to mill and drill parts for upgrades on a failing DYNA MYTE 2400 (functions started to fail; maybe it was that latest CME event). Oh, for the reader that is not familiar with the DYNA MITE, it is a 1980's educational machine that is 110VAC and low power with a funky set of TTL logic code and AC open loop steppers, but a super heavy iron casting -350+lb and now 0.001 accuracy as to the start up check routine.
You'd be amazed what I did on a tiny Unimat back in the '60s. I once made a new crankshaft for a model aircraft engine on it, using a bit of scrap axle shaft from a truck. Yes it took ages, but I got there. I have a bigger lathe now (4 1/2" Boxford), but I still use the little Unimat for really tiny parts.... the very high spindle speeds available are very useful when machining things often less than 1/16" diameter. Horses for courses. I have a light milling machine now too when I say light, it weighs 500kgs!) that is remarably capable. Geared head (a bit noisy) and 2 axis DRO. For the money it's a good machine. You get what you pay for with machinery of all sorts, and the ultra precision machines are way beyond affordable for most of us. Any half way decent machinist should be able to work to closer tolerances than those on the machines he/she is using......
I have both Harbor Freight mini mill and lathe. Installed cheap DRO’s on both and set them up properly. I have done very precise work on both in hard steel, i.e. cut steel 1911 frame for ramped barrel, made gun lock work from A-2 tool steel. The key is light cuts, don’t force it.
Forewarning: I'm not a machinist, I just took a lot of training for it at the same time as I went through getting a degree in CAD. That being said, just like with full-sized equipment, the biggest limiting factor is the quality of the components/build of the machine. There are definitely mini mills that are built well, and ones that are junk. For example, I have a Grizzly minimill, with some upgrades done to it, and it has served me just as well for the smaller work that I do as the bridgeports that I've used in various shops for big work. Would I use it for production work? No, mostly because a full-size Mill is just built much heftier and so it'll do small to medium jobs with ease and without suffering the same level of wear and tear as a smaller unit. Just the nature of the beast. But for shop work, like gunsmithing jobs or hobbyist/small size projects that I might have to do, the thing is way more than enough, holds the same level of precision as the big boys that I've used, and, with upgrades, has all of the features I need. The only thing i have yet to add that would be nice is an auto-feed. Knee Mills and bench-top mills (minimills) definitely have their place, and they are a huge benefit for anyone that's getting started because they don't take up nearly as much room as a full-size, they're not that costly to get into, and they don't require any special electrical drops or anything like a full-size mill's 440v requirement. So, as long as you're doing your homework, you're investing in a good quality unit, and you know what to look for, no reason not to get one. One other thought on the subject: Before investing in any kind of a Milling Machine, check out your local community college to see if they offer any basic Machine Tooling classes. If they do, sign up for the basic one that covers how to set up and run mills, lathes, etc. to get familiar with the equipment. Also, look at the classes being offered and see if there's a common professor/instructor to all of the courses covering machine tooling. Those guys are usually experienced machinists, and when it comes time to consider a decent Knee/Bench-Top mill, they are an invaluable resource to ask questions of, such as what to look for, what information provided by reviewers and whatnot are legitimate data and what's misinformation/crap, and potentially even if the instructor might know of any good places that sell used equipment. If you cultivate the professor as a resource, their experience on the machines will also mean they may be a good resource to help you figure out upgrades and source (or make) upgraded parts like bushings, bearings, etc. to turn an otherwise passable machine into a fully serviceable unit. Nothing beats experience in that regard.
You'll get even better results if you bolt the mill down on something that isn't made of wood. Also whenever possible try to mill against the fixed part of the vise.
We had numerous small fabrication shops here in the UK, with top quality, precision machinery. As they closed the machines where shipped to India and like only for them to be used to manufacture machines for us to buy 🤷🏻♂️😂.
You show your gauge and saying "this is as close as I could get with the soda-can shims". But since I don't really know what I'm looking at, just how close is that? It looks like .003 but is that across some range of movement? is it plus and minus? Just what is it telling me? Thanks for an interesting video and for helping us learn about mini-mills.
I know a guy who drilled a hole 1/1000th too big, when he ran the tap through the hole, we heard a cracking noise...letz just say, flight operations on board that particular Her majesty's vessel we ceased for the remainder of the voyage and the young seamen officer was never allowed use a drill and received lengthy education and training on the importance of listening to senior sailors, metal fatigue and the properties of cast iron abd proper use of drills, taps and dies. I learnt a valuable lesson from simply being on the same ship. That was the importance of accuracy and tolerances. It was a very valuable lesson and the mistake made was in recutting a thread that didn't need recutting and the entire problem of a tiny drip would have been easily solved with the proper use of thread tape and or some adhesive that was fuel safe. Instead the officer chose to redrill the hole and tap a new thread. It cracked the cast iron drain assembly on the number 1 aviation fuel tank. This meant the ship could not refuel helicopters whilst underway. Refit...sorry fleet our vessel isnt sea worthy...not a phone call I would wanna make aye .
BS. Engineers build in a safety factor for this very reason. And usually that safety factor is way more than it needs to be. You wouldn't drill to that tight of a tolerance nor would it cause any sort of a failure either way. .25mm or .010".. maybe.. but even then, the thread nor tap is extremely unlikely to fail, especially not in a way that is going to send a ship back to the yard.
@@KingZeusCLE and engineers don't know everything despite what they think..you assumed that you did...but you forgot some critical information.. something to do with ambient temperature and allowances for changes in it and pressure. All tapping guides assume normal temperature ranges...what's normal temperature? Because here in Australia normal could be 38 degrees Celsius or minus 25. Depending exactly on where you are in the world. Drills have +/- tolerances at normal temperature and so do taps. In extreme cold, where we were at the time. Officer followed the "chart" for drilling and tapping...crack..why? Because the one tiny detail in the fine print. The valve block was on outside of ship in the current normal temperature of minus 20 degrees...so what happened to the built in tolerance the engineers calculated generating the tables? They use an ambient normal temperature of 26+- degrees Celsius. The block was the water drain on the tank..it broke. Because when investigation was completed they found temperature effects drilling and tapping sizes and given the material is what caused the fracture. The tap was oversize by just 1/1000th. The drill under 1/1000th. Expansion and contraction of materials.
I have a Chester Conquest with 19.5" x 6" table & MT3 spindle which is similar to yours. I make lots of parts on it in steel, Ali, brass & plastics.. It is a very capable mill if used properly. Of course it will not hog off large amounts of material but for hobby stuff it is great. Thanks for sharing. ATB regards from the UK
Column won't hold tram? Square it up and install a pin, either tapered or parallel. Most milling will take place with the column upright and if you think a little, you can make a pin that is easily removed for the rare occasion you need to tilt the column.
This is what the Khyber Pass gun builders encounter when they die and enter heaven. I taught myself basic machining on this tawdry unit. It can do great things if you are insidiously determined.
i love my little milling machine, its the wen 33013, its a like the sieg x2l with the bigger table, i have been planning on buying a solid column base an column for mine but havent gotten around to it but it cant say ive had issues, just getting the head trammed in after moving it or something like that is always really teadius plus i barely know what im doing but i love my mill an suggest everyone who works with there hands alot to buy one, u will not regret it. i got into 3d printing forever ago an ended up with a mini print farm for a lack of a better term with 12 fdm an 2 resin printers then i got a cnc router then a 7x14 mini lathe and the mini mill, it took me some time to get all the tooling an stuff needed to do alot of stuff but its by far been the most fun thing ive ever tried to pick up. it took what i was making to a different level an alot of limits i used to run into is a thing of the past now cause i can just move to aluminum or steel to get it done. well well worth the time and money if ur someone who likes making useful stuff.
My work acquaintance Benny recently got one of these, he played with it in the garage for a while, but ended up wet plugging the neighbor. The unit was eventually sold in the divorce settlement. I hear he still misses making bushings. Poor Benny, he should have stuck to bushings.
This is rather helpful as I have been using industrial level machines while hmmmmin and haaaain about a couple little machines for a machine shopesque setup at home.
As far as the noise is concerned, it's the same with any equipment, there is a break in period. Whether you get a new rotary tool, a lawn mower or a new car, there are going to be tiny imperfections in the friction surfaces and with most smaller things you just need to run them under no-load or just a light load for an hour or so to smooth things out and quite them down a bit.
the first two complaints about the lathe are the same issue, inpatients. Without the rigidity of a few tons of steel, you need to cut smaller, and keep your tools sharper.
I sold tools for about 10 years. People complain about the quality and the results. Most of them didn't read the owners manual and skipped set up steps. If you don't set the tool up properly you are just wasting your time.
Thanks for watching! As for why inches, it happens to be the units on my machine tools/the material stock I buy. Personally unless I’m doing any kind of structural or mechanical analysis math I find the units don’t matter as far as workflow goes so I just roll with whatever makes sense in the moment!
I bought a mini mill (rebranded) from a local provider where I think they do some basic QC checking on the ones they order. Mine is the exact same model as yours. There's always an initial setup time in getting everything perfectly square although mine was dead on left to right (only .001" over the whole length) and only had about .004" front to back which was fixed by shimming under the tower where it connects to the base. That was about 6 years ago and since then it has been invaluable for me in getting projects done, I use it also for my knife making sometimes and it's all around a great tool. Just like others said, don't expect to be hogging off 1/4" chunks with a small mill like this. Usually i don't go over .030" if I want to remove material quickly. If not I usually just take half that if I'm not in a hurry. But to be fair, you probably could get away with hogging off .060" with a quality face mill as long as you have everything else set up very rigid and the mill tuned to eliminate any play.
Nice job with the review. Machines all have plus and minus be it horsepower or rigidity, the smallest reasonable sized tool to do the job is always your best bet, both in economics of cost and time. Playing not making money at it, it's your choice but when the machine wiggles or part moves that big endmill will cost you both in money and time fixing your setup replacing the tool because of increase the tool pressure it places on the parts often leading to parts moving. Have fun the parts look great, a 3 or 4 inch machine vise with a swivel base and sticking with just R8 collets would be a great addition. Cheers!
hear me out: 0.0625" is just a 1/16th this is a perfectly reasonable dial to use when working in small inch measurements, as long as you have a fractional/decimal table next to you.
