We are an analog photography shop based in Berlin. We will be showcasing some of the photographers we have met, events, and other film photography related stuff going on in the Berlin scene.
Wow! What that was a lot of learning from our side on the other hand that was a lot of work for one shot, but its an artist tool. Pretty intensive, Thank you for sharing and you are master of an 8x10 format. you explained very well. Awesome Thank you once again.
Useless comparison. If you could adapt the Contax lens on the 645 you will get the same results just because both are basically the same: just light boxes.
you can't be serious !!! start with a real Mamiya lens and a Mamiay 645 Pro TL and a pro photog the sharpest point of most lens two stops down . and this new era of photo bugs are more interested in a word that never existe BOKEH !! who cares about out of focus backgrounds (focus on the subjest!)
This is super interesting. Not sure I understand why you are saying it's 'inconsistent', though - it seems to be consistently over-exposing when relying on the light meter. For manual it looks like it's ok if you're metering separately.
1 Buy an SX-70 Sonar. 2 Have it overhauled and converted with an SX-70 R circuit board. You end up with an SLR(!) that gives you complete control, has BT connectivity, external flash sync, works with both 70 and 600 film and more features. All for around the same price or even cheaper than the I-2. I'd rather see Polaroid spend their time on improving their film instead of cameras.
Got mine a few days ago, in manual mode pictures are okay, in automatic only at -2 acceptable. With flash its different, need more (costly) trial and error. It's set on I-type film, but gives better results with sx 70 film. After Polaroid wanted to know per mail, wether I'd recommend it to friends, and I answered zero "not at all", support contacted me, and I wrote about the situation. Let's see what they answer. At a price of 600 € this is very disappointing.
Instant cameras (not instant film) were originally invented for family snaps, not for camera and film experts. They should produce good results at the press of a button. No light shielding, minimum development time, true colours and longevity. Don't ya think?!
Hi! Do you ever take into consideration your bellows extension? (the "bellows extension factor" which we'd usually apply to increase exposure to compensate for light loss, as in this sort of case?) I believe the rule is: more exposure must be given if your subject is *closer than 8x the focal length of the lens* (in your case: 8 x 250mm = 2000mm (which is 2 meters, therefore about 6.5 feet). This would explain why - as you had mentioned in you video - your image was "a bit underexposed". I mean, because of some latitude, it looks pretty good as it is except for some detail lost in the shadow side of your girlfriend's hair. All-in-all, bravo, though!
I do but I never really go too exact with it. For me it's more or less a decent estimate based off the given situation. I was never good at math so I figured long ago that it's probably best for everyone (me and subject) to not get it involved in my shooting.
Thanks for a honest review. There's no need for all these control with Polaroid until they don't take the time to set these better. A simpler model just gets the job done.
when making a video about SHOOTING large format, the quickest and most "user friendly" way to show the result is to scan it digitally. Also, does it really matter if it's underexposed? Sure, I could have spend another 5 minutes explaining and showing off the calculations needed for bellow extension exposure compensation and getting a bit better exposure but I didn't... sue me.
Good video but an unfair comparison because you could have at least used a native Mamiya 80mm 2.8 lens instead of the soviet lens...Better yet compare it with the Mamiya 80mm F1.9., and a more even comparison would be with the Mamiya 645AF.
I have the I 2. Outside a minus (-) correction of either 2/3 or 1 stop works well. If you think the overexposure was 3 stops then the correction dial is not calibrated the way you assume it is. -1 does not mean -1 stop. This gives great latitude in overall control. Anyway, my results are consistently good whether I use a correction outdoors or my sekonic 308S-U and meter on manual mode. I have done direct comparisons with my Instantkon rf 70 that uses instax wide film and the primary difference is in developing time, not the vibrance or accuracy of the colors. If that was not the case a few years ago, it means that Polaroid has done a good job of improving their film. You guys should listen to all the newer youtube videos and do a new round of testing. You’ll have a lot more fun when your results are much better. The experience of shooting instant film with a camera that can be manually controlled, is unsurpassed.
way to expensive for a broken Mamiya with a soviet lens. For the price you can find a nice Mamiya with its original lens and for a few hundreds more a more recent high end model Mamiya super, pro or AF
Han disparado sin usar el flash? Tengo una cámara réflex y planeo usar el mismo rollo que ustedes para una fiesta pero quiero saber si afecta el hecho de que no podré disparar con flash
