Diggers, Dragsters, Slingshots, Rails... Whatever you like to call them, the White Family has been racing them for 3 generations and counting. Here, you can follow along with them as they vlog about their passion of racing across the country. Spanning 3 time zones, Eric White in the East, Matt White in the Southwest, and Terry White in the West.
Lots of history at that track. Very nice they redid the track years ago. Lot of people don’t realize that at one time it was a 4 lane drag strip. Pro on one side , amateur on the other based on ET.
If turning the box end wrench loosens or tightens lash, when locking it down in place, WHY are you not just holding the wrench perfectly still while tightening down the allen screw. That's the way I always did my big block Chevy. Wouldn't turning the wrench tighter as you tighten the lock screw close the gap a bit?
You are correct. It does close the gap a bit. I always account for it and check it after to be sure it's where I want it. I do mine this way to ensure a good lock. Have not had one back out on me yet 😁
Havent driven mine in 4 yrs due to back pain cant lean over the fender but refuse to put puzzie hydraulic cam in. Maybe I need a st legal dragster such as yours.
Hey setting up my grid and the main timing is at 35 degrees on my engine and I’m not quite sure what the max retard should be at a lot of people show there’s at 30 but I have a super comp car like yours and you have 16 could you inform me a little more on that?
Looks like your setting your COLD lash at the HOT lash spec, disregarding the increase in lash as the motor heats up to operating temp. Shouldn't you set your COLD lash a few thousands tighter than the Hot lash spec to accommodate the lash increase when the motor heats up???
If it runs on alcohol it may not get that hot anyway. My big block Chevy on alcohol starting line temp was 160, finish line temp was 145. Waterpump off, fans off. I had to open a ball valve to the intake creating a vacuum leak, and pull the fuel shut off cable a bit to try and lean it out on the return road to keep some heat in it.
SAme here. Cant do it hot, cant get a remote on the starter due to equal length headers, no help to be had Have to remove the bottom pulley and put a crank socket on to turn it over. Huge pita.
Been doing this for many, many years. IMHO, it's the only proper way to adjust valves. The old fashioned 90* method will not work with all cams, especially aftermarket, aggressive racing cams....
Well said! Every time I see some forum of YT know it all bragging up his shortcut he never tried it drives me up the wall Do them Once, one at a time and all will be right on the money.
I made the switch to alky a few years ago and won't look back. I run KillerRon's injection, it's been awesome. No more overheating issues, fuel costs less than half despite using more, and car is faster and more consistent. I will never run gas again in a drag car. I also run a primer plus system for warm up and end of day.
When you first got to the racetrack with the motor and you adjusted it and everything was fine and you texted the next time and everything was fine what went wrong that it's loose like to you have a stud girdle in there that will hold it what what's wearing out that's bringing the lift the Gap needing to be adjustable
I didn't get that Cam card with my motor...it's a big block With a pretty radical Cam... Should I stay in the numbers that you are doing 🤔 I have no clue were too start.....
Hi Brad, that's tough. The proper lash depends on many factors from the cam design, valve springs, and the material of your valve train, like steel vs aluminum rocker arms, iron heads vs aluminum heads, and are they are on iron block or aluminum block. All the different metals grow and expand and different rates and amounts. That's why it's critical to get that info from your engine builder if you can. Now, since you don't know, if I were you I would start by taking a measurement of what the current lash is. You might find that most them are close to the same number. That could give you a good idea of where they are and should be. So if they are all mostly all say .024 on your intakes, keep that as your number. What your really looking for here is, do you have on that WAY off. If you find that one of them is .050 then you might have something wrong like a bent pushrod or cracked rocker arm, etc. The idea is to regularly keep the set where they should be and keep good notes, so that if one goes away you can catch a problem hopefully before it grenades the whole engine. Also, by keeping them consistently set you help keep your engine performing as consistently as possible. Tighter and looser settings changes the performance of the cam as the lifter follows it tighter or looser.
@@diggerstv5325 thanks bro you saved me a lot of money, bout to pull my aluminum heads off my BBC and now I can do it myself with confidence. Thanks again
@@bradnavratil5502 Look up the grind # at the end of the cam when you pull your cam gear off. Chances are its not some trendy tight lash cam....Id bet .020- 022 cold lash would do fine if you have alum heads iron block
Nice video, Thank you! There is an easy way to get the back bearing out if you do not have access to a bearing puller. Put the pump on the stove with the burner on high until it is smoking hot. Using a thick leather glove turn the pump upside down and hit it straight down on a piece of wood. The bearing will fall out.
Thanks for the tip Aerospace! I suspect had this unit received more regular servicing it would have disassembled easier. This one however was probably never serviced in likely 20 years! Which is a testament to how well these pumps are built. It did make it difficult though to get it apart. I think anyone else would not have as hard of a time if their unit is newer or received better routine maintenance. With the rebuilt unit back on my engine, my car has picked up about .08 in the 1/8th. It's performing like new! Thanks!
Hi Chad, hope your setup is coming along. So the 6 degrees of retard is what makes up my static desired engine timing. So, my CT pickup is at 42 BTC, I have told the grid I want locked 36. So it retards 6 degrees (42-6=36). Next, I tell the launch retard to pull 5 degrees for a period of time. So, when active the 36 moves to 31 and then back to 36. (36-6=31). Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
This was honestly your best video yet.. I definitely like this way of making these videos. I definitely had fun here, and hope we get the dub next month:DDDD But like any other bracket race, consistent 60’ is key.. great video:D Btw here is the link to old man in the shop built not bought from the round 2 footage: ru-vid.com/show-UCGG8qXZ5dMZkR4JBtwTzYtg
The 16 degrees I referenced was the maximum total retard. That setting is the most retard that can be used. Meaning to say, if will not all you to pull out more than 16 degrees from the max timing reference. My 36 degrees of timing is the max timing reference 42 - 6 degrees. That means I can only pull out another 10 if I wanted to. To go beyond that, I would need to change the Max retard setting. Hope that clears it up. Thanks for watching!
