Ok so the differential screw is a M20-1.5 pitch and the other end is a 16mm- 2.5 pitch and then two 10mm guide pins 40mm apart ? If this is the correct Wohlhaupter differential screw then I would like to modify my UPA4 s/5 with an integrated shank to the removable shank like the newer heads could be equipped with. Just ordered some inserts for turning down that hardened shank. Hope it’s soft enough to drill and tap the center hole and the two 10 mm pins. I will definitely harden and temper it. ( It’s just a R8 ) But this setup is what allows them to operate in both directions. Otherwise the threaded shanks can back out making a real mess. I’m not sure how this will translate as the R8 has the smaller 7/16”-20 drawbar threads.. 🤔wonder if the Allen key would even fit through it.. or maybe use larger pins and a smaller center screw with a running fit shoulder ? This one’s gonna test me.
I don’t know if the differential screw is the same size for the larger boring heads, it might be larger. Drilling in the hardened shank might be possible but tapping it sounds like a lot of trouble. Good luck!
Interessante seria ter o desenho todo desta ferramenta , da cabeça sei que são muitas pecas, mas muitas partes do mundo não temos como ter uma , devido a impostos absurdos .
Thanks for information. Though I have some 35 to 40 years experience in Machine tool and servicing, I have been gathering new ideas daily.... I am in to CNC CONSULTATION.
Regardless of the result nice part. I'm really impressed with the taper grinding quality from your setup with that long and relatively thin extension you build. I was expecting some chatter marks on the taper but it looks so good.
Thanks! I made it as short as possible. I’d like to have made the bar bigger but the spindle can only clamp 1/2” so that’s my limit there unfortunately
I use ISCAR SGFH 32-3 with GFN3 IC354 inserts on the turning centers at work and are great. Iscar tooling is very good, especially for part off where you need a top tool
It looks as thought the blade is not held properly in the holder. Go to 34:43 or there abouts and you can see that the top part of the blade is more exposed as you look towards the work piece. Is the blade parallel to the motion of the top slide? Great vid btw, I've sub'd.
H&G make some very nice articulating arms that are actually hydraulic. I have one at my day job that I took apart because I was curious. www.hoerger-gaessler.de/hydraulische-messstative.html
The reason it broke is the tool doesn’t form chips properly and they jammed up just above the cut. I invite you to watch the follow up video where I put a better tool to the same task. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7W56NKiRCl8.htmlsi=FrTDn5dx-zlOoD6G
Miljaar, die vliegt er nogal door! 😅 Ik zit met hetzelfde te sukkelen dan jij. Is feitelijk geen hobbymayeriaal, maar ik ga er toch es over nadenken om in zo’n ISCAR te investeren … Je bent toevallig niet uit regio Bornem?
@@ED_T Ben jij professioneel of ook hobbyist? Je werk én je videos zien er alvast professioneel uit. Bedankt voor je kennis te delen! Jammer dat je nogal ver uit de buurt zit …
I had it set pretty close but it's possible. I'm sure it still would have shifted if it was on perfect center height. Generally parting feed rate should be reduced towards the end of the cut.
@@lehunghuy that's ok, the chinese tool does work but you have to be careful for chip jamming and breakage. You just have to be aware of the limitations.
Small correction I think, It's probably 316 not 304 as 304 is slightly magnetic at least in Australia. Not sure if grades are different elswhere in the world.
I can't clearly see the part numbers on the phone, it looks like the holder is ISCAR TGFH with a TAG/NLF insert ? It might be a tad expensive for the average hobbyist unless you get them on flea bay for a good price.
Impressive, the secret sauce is the insert geometry and the positive stops. You can see how the chip curls nicely and breaks off, that's very important for clean parting. I grind the same geometry in my HSS parting blades, works beautifully.
Do you think a blade like this could be used on a hobby lathe with a 9-10” swing? (22-25cm). Those parts were the stuff of dream! I loathe parting in my lathe!
If your lathe has less than 2kW motor power I would recommend you get the 2mm wide version of this tool. The most important part is that you use sufficient feed rate according to the info on the insert box
Because If I switch the parting blade out for a standard 25mm insert tool I don't want to be re-adjusting the center height. Also this holder has been stressed from the Chinese bar and it droops a little right now.
@@ED_T the idea with qctp is that you have a holder for each (main at least) tool, so you adjust height only if you swap one of the secondary tools for another one. Shortage of multifix toolholders might justify your approach but if this is not the case....
damn nice tool! beats the import by a long shot, tho, iscar is an import aswell, but you get my point... quality comes with a price and often not from china...
I would check the blade angles where it clamped down in the holder. different brands do different shape and angles in order for us to buy their tool holders. and well done on the test, definitely scary at the end. cheers
I have both these blades on my small Victor lathe, and I never could get troublefree cuts with the Chinese import inserts, but a whole fantastic new world opened up when I got the Iscar one! It’s a fantastic blade and inserts, that’s for sure👍
It’s a pretty heavy duty vacuum cleaner, no cyclone. It has a 60mm diameter hose, I designed some nozzles and had them 3D printed. The model is Alto attix 550-21
