Can I add the Advanced zoom camera to my Standard drone? I’m still learning my drones features and noticed my phone is much better quality seeing that it’s a new model compared to my Phantom Standards video and photo quality. It’s about 8 or 9 years old. Is there a good camera replacement upgrade you recommend?
I've had a few different reel mowers and the flymo is definitely the best I've experienced, and worth the extra money. If you're mowing a bigger lawn the width really does help, and it also just feels more efficient, like you are putting in less work to get more work done. The quality of the cut is also beautiful, you will get comments on your lawn! I have an old video on my channel about them.
These cone sticks are pure rubish. They do not allow for full motion on my controller. The silicone gets btw the control Stick and the controller limiting range of motion and therefore your unable to take off/start the motors with the control Sticks buy at your own risk.
Further to my last post it is worth mentioning a couple more tricks with them. If the mower starts to disengage it is most often because dirt has accumulated inside. Take off the wheel covers and give everything inside a thorough clean. Scrape out any dirt between the teeth on the interior of the wheels and between the teeth on the cylindrical sprocket inside. Clean out the little hole and its metal slider, which should slide very freely. I use light oil for that purpose. The weak point, it seems to me, lies with the triple ridges on the inside of the sprocket. These engage with the sliders in opposite directions on each wheel. After months of hard use the plastic ridges wear down; if only they were made of metal or spare parts were available ! To be honest I haven't found the instruction booklet particularly helpful; I've had about six of these mowers and just found things by trial and error. The best cutting level and contact between rotor and blade I have found to be very dependent on personal taste. Anyway, you can often get a few extra months out of them by the aforementioned cleaning and taking the time to get the cutting parameters right for you.
I have used H40s for more than twenty years. I have a large lawn, mostly kikuyu, but it gives me mild exercise additional to my training. The only complaint I have concerns the unavailability of spare parts, which is a pity because they are dead easy to fix and maintain. I get a new one about every two or three years I suppose and keep the old ones in case a required part is intact on them. It would be nice if all the internal parts, gears and wheels were metal. Then they would last indefinitely but I suppose that would run contrary to economic strategy.
Nice video! Are you flying in Cine Mode with the Cinesticks or Normal mode while orbiting the crane. I recently got the newest Cinestick Ultra (pro). I feel like I’m moving in super slow motion now when flying in Cine mode. I’m much more stable and accurate though.
I use them in all modes including sport mode - when you are VERY close to something or want to do a hyperlapse effect manually then cinemode is your friend. But The sticks offer so much feel and control that I generally don't need to use cine or tripod modes.
@@reflexfilms thanks for your feedback. I agree, they offer so much control. I was always under the impression to use Cine Mode when recording video for the stabilization. With the Cinesticks, I find myself staying in normal mode more often. I just wanted to make sure that I wasn’t the only one thinking this way. Thanks again.
Cheers! The effect is called 3:d motion tracking- it reverse engineers how to composite text in your shot, as if it were physically in the scene, by analysing parallax of objects in your shot. If you are on Final Cut then Mtracker 3d is the plug in to look for.
Expo creates problems as well as solving them - due to the decreased sensitivity that then ramps up at some point - you lose control precision at the mid point of the sticks. physical resistance on the sticks is the go.
@@reflexfilms just starting out with my air2s and looking for which way to go. Leaning toward FCP and motion. Your air2 s footage is excellent, happy I made the choice.
@@parqld its a great drone. While I love Final cut - your results will be from your creativity and ideas. The edit set up is just the knife of the hammer. Macs do tend to be more robust and reliable when you are pushing around heavy footage - like the 5.4k off the air 2s - which I reckon is its premiere feature - outshooting even the Mavic 3 pro for resolution. Which means you can reframe / crop to get amazing looks on such a cheap drone
I could see that Flymo rear roller was bouncing up and down which means the push bars are too fat forward on the mower which means the rear roller won't be producing any stripes on the lawn. Maybe the 400 has been corrected
@@reflexfilms If you watch your own slow motion pass of the Flymo you will quite clearly see the rear roller bouncing up and down off the lawn. What's there to be confused about ?
@@a.c.1474 how does that affect stripes? i didn't even know the rear roller was supposed to create stripes - and have no idea how it could - it's just a plastic roller that supports the back and allows height adjustment. Surely the further apart the rollers the less effect from bouncing. It sounds like you have some insight into lawnmower design - I would love to hear more.
@@reflexfilms The roller whether plastic or metal pushes the grass over bending it slightly after it's cut. Obviously the more pressure downwards will produce a more pronounced stripe, that's why older / vintage cylinder mowers had quite large metal rollers of considerable weight producing lovely stripes. Obviously these nowadays have lost their popularity because of their cost and ironically their heaviness. If you try to replace these with lighter machines it can be done successfully but it's critical to get the balance of the machine correct. Where the push bars are connected to the mower they should be low down on the sides and nearer to the roller rather than the spindle of the cutter. On the machine you were using this wasn't the case thus the rear roller was bouncing and floating literally making the roller more cosmetic rather than performing it's intended function of pressing down on the grass to fold it over. It would be worth your while to reposition the end of the handles on the machine by bolting them on further back and lower and make a program on this as it would be extremely interesting to many people and would improve it's performance considerably.
@@a.c.1474 the primary function of the roller is to keep the blades off the ground, not make a stripe! Try using a reel mower that has had the roller break off and see how far you get! Adjustable rollers (such as on the H40 in this video) allow the blade to run at different heights. The stripe is a secondary, aesthetic detail.
There is no motor, they are both quiet compared to any petrol or even electric mower. If you have the blades adjusted very tightly they can make more noise. And if you jam a stone or piece or wire or something in the blades it can create a small dent in the blades that will make a sound with every blade rotation for about 3 or 4 minutes use, until you wear the notch flat again.
