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I have done that once. For the cabinet I used a 47" long corner cabinet with a 21" cabinet next to it for the symmetry. A part of the cabinet sides where the sink will sit must be cut away of course.
Appreciate the video and learn every time. I think I would have to attach one bracket on each side of the island supports though, as it would bug me if I didn't. If you mark and then move the cabinets after placing them as you did in this video, your arms wouldn't need any special joints. Would it make a difference in the end, probably not, but it is the right way to do it. Just my OCD.
Thanks for your input. Did you see that Ikea have discontinues the bracket shown in the video? The new one looks like this: www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/sektion-floor-anchoring-frame-f-ktchn-islnd-10557036/
Why would you tie the base cabinets first together and then level them? Wouldn’t be tied together prevent them from being able to individually level and adjust? Sorry I’m struggling with this :/
Hi - great video. Does the suspension rail come with the necessary screws for fixing? If not, what screws would you recommend to fix to a solid brick wall? Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to share this excellent video with us. I agreed with you in cutting the hanging rails as you suggested and checking the sagging ceilings.
I saw in one of your videos, you install lights under the angled corner cabinet. But you didn't mention how you connect them. Is there a corner connecting peice?
😂 awesome video! I have read all the same complaints about the legs and just shake my head. I see that even here, people are complaining... that's because EVERYONE IS USING THEM THE WRONG WAY 😂 ... Ty Rannes, great job!
Yes, yes, yes!! I’m introducing an IKEA kitchen to my installers. It takes a minute to understand the concept and process, but so far, so good. This video is essential. Thank you
@@kitchensbyrannes the diagrams are really confusing. I’ve spoken to building supervisors who often install dishwashers for clients who also agreed the diagrams and instructions are overly convoluted. If you don’t install dishwashers why you making a video about installing them properly?
I was lucky enough finding Ranne's youtube channel in my early phase of IKEA kitchen installation....still had a few small cuts by suspension rail ;-) ...do believe him, use the protective gloves, be careful and take your time before cutting or drilling holes....in any case, a plethora of very useful advice not found on other on line sources :-))))
Hey Lars Rannes, thanks to your great videos my 55 year old wife (who has very few practical skills) assembled seventeen cabinets, including an oven tower, all by herself. Just wonderful for her self esteem too.
I’ve been watching your channel for a long time. Cabinets delivered, so we put one together just to see. We can do this! With your help, of course. Thank you so much for all the time and effort you put into your video.
@@carolgiffen8203 You're very welcome. Of course you can. If you run into trouble, you can find more help here: kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-consultations/
I'm not sure which Ansluta you have, but the only Ansluta we have in Canada is either a small power supply or a cable, and none of those can be wirelessly connected to any Ikea remote control.
I have the Blum hinges and i am reusing them with new front doors. However the left cabinet is good however the right one is set to all the way high and it doesn’t go high enough for some reason. I can’t figure it out. The left one is set to the middle height and is fine
If the left hinged have room to move down, try that. Alternatively, move the upper right hinge a bit in inwards/right direction (turn adjusting screw clockwise) and the upper left hinge in outwards/right direction (turn adjusting screw counter clockwise).
@@kitchensbyrannes unfortunately with the right one all the way up it still isn’t high enough as it hits the drawer below. I am going to pick up new hinges tomorrow at ikea to see if that does the trick. I am wondering if the hinges are just bad. Well see
I'm certain that the hinge is fine. Sometimes it takes some trying. All movements are relatively. "Up" for one door could also mean "down" for the adjacent door and the drawer below.
I have watched most of your videos and was ready to tackle my laundry room and butler's pantry. Then I opened up the rail and wouldn't you know it...Ikea changed the minimum measurement from the ceiling to 1"! I had already installed the rail measuring 2.5" from the bottom of it. The cabinet hooks can't even attempt to sit on the rail. I'm going to lower the rail 1/2"...but I thought you should know the change and maybe it will save someone else the hassle.
Ikea only changed the instructions and clearly to something impossible to execute. As I remember it, the oneinch is shown from the bottom of the ral to the ceiling. A bit difficult when rail is more than 2" high.
@@kitchensbyrannes No, their minimum from the top of the rail to the ceiling now states 1" instead of the dubious 6/8. I'm wondering if the size of the rail has increased, measuring 2.5" from the bottom of the rail left me less than 1/2" gap to the ceiling.
@HeatherWright4 the instructions found in the Canadian website is still 1" from the bottom. The only reason they pick 1" is to give you clearance to hang the cabinets.
I just installed an ikea kitchen but I have 2 base cabinets where the top drawer is not sitting flush. One side is hitting the bumper but the other is not and it seems like the rail is not pushing in all the way. It’s a big cabinet drawer with a low drawer. Not sure how to fix it.
@@kitchensbyrannes I did remove those actually before, still having the issue. The cabinet is 4 drawers total. The cabinet to the left of it is fine so I am confused.
If it's the low drawer with no adjustment option for tilting the front, you're out of luck. Sometimes I give the drawer a big jerk to the side when open 😔 but so so at your own risk.
So the 2.5 inches has to be at the lowest point but it’s ok if the other end of my bulkhead is less sacking and has almost 3.4 inch distance? Won’t it look crooked? :S
Great video. What is the process for drilling a new hole if an existing hole doesn't line up with the center of the rails? It should be straightforward but not sure if there's a trick to making sure both new holes are perfectly aligned
Rails is the term for the top and bottom sections of a shaker -style cabinet door/drawer. The top and bottom are called rails and the left and right pieces are called stiles
Thanks for informing me. I didn't know 😔 Drilling a new hole which is overlapping the old hole is truly difficult. I use a True Position jig for making holes, and if it slides a bit, I'll redrill with more grip and attention.
4:18 "Most people don't have a Torx in this part of the world" ... I would have bet you are Danish, but then I checked the bio page and it says Canada..
Hi Rannes, I have the smoothTistorp door and drawer fronts plus in 2 locations, the horizontal wall cabinets with push up doors that are 15" high. I think i know the answer, but are you proposing that all of them have the handle mounted at the exact same distance from the top (or in the case of horizontal push up) the bottom of the door? Does the handle distance from the edge vary based on the height of the drawer? I have in most cases 3 drawer fronts that are 5",10",15"but in a couple of situation, 2 large drawer fronts that are 15" each and then the normal doors up high plus the horizontal wall cabinets.
you're saying you're running the rail behind the dishwasher and add a bracket as support, are you talking bout the fixa bracket which you'll add to get the right height to support the countertop where the dishwasher is installed? :)
Yes, you can use that. Just squeeze it in between the wall and the rail and use a long level across, and push the Fixa up under the level before adding a screw or two. That said, normally, I don't add any support as the span of 24" (60 cm) isn't too wide for the countertop to be unsupported.
tbh i feel the carousel takes too much space with the hardware, i prefer to just have the utrusta shelf dividing the cabinet in 2 and that gives me a TON of storage space.
Is it OK to use use Besta for push to open mechanism instead of Utrusta for kitchen cabinets? I am fine with 95 degree swing instead 110 degrees swing offered by Utrusta
I'm quite certain that the Bestå hinge cannot be used with the Sektion cabinets and doors. If you want to achieve a smaller opening angle than 110 degrees, you can get some non-Ikea plastic clips to restrain the opening angle (seen on Amazon). The Utrusta push opener can be used on Sektion cabinets too.
But what about doors with three hinges? Im struggling, where to start. Do I need just hang on two hinges, and adjust them, and them put third? But then how can i adjust the middle one? Do you have any suggestions? 🤔
Yes, they are a bit more tricky. I leave the middle hinge attached nd if I do ½ a turn in any given direction on top or bottom hinge, I do ¼ on the middle in the same direction.
I know its not the best video where I could ask about drawers, but its one of most recent videos, so I would like to know from profesional. Is there any way to get drawer bottom without buying all drawer? Because I guess ruined drawer bottom with water doesn't come in guaranties. Maybe there is a hack, maybe it would be good topic for another video 🤔😅
All Ikea cabinets are modular so whatever you have in it, can be replaced, drawer by drawer. If you have an Ikea nearby, bring the damaged drawer and they mig6havw what you need in As-Is.
Great video! I'm installing an ikea island on a concrete floor and adding a floating floor afterwards (13mm). When installing the wooden floor frame for the island, should I raise the frame 13mm? Or put a 13mm spacer between the frame and the underside of the cabinets? I'm also installing a dishwasher in the island so I'm not sure how that height spacing works either.
For front control, maybe. But for top-control, how would this be feasible? The side attachment holes, if lined up with the face-frame of adjacent cabinets, purposefully bumps out the front of the machine proud of the face-frames. If aligned, you cannot see the top controls whilst standing.
It depends on the specific model. On some dishwashers, the door is not flush with the "corpus" and in there's it is. Always check the installation instructions but I'm quite certain that most dishwashers must be lifted up to the countertop. Also the top controlled.
My question is, how are we supposed to mount the large panels on the back of an island or a peninsula with the new mounting system? There's no provision made for a panel that goes right to the floor in any of the IKEA "literature". My best guess is that you have to cut new corner access holes at the bottoms of the cabinets and install a second set of mounting brackets to use with the new wooden channel strips. (I think we would all love to see a video of this new system being installed!)
A video is coming at some point. As far as I i remember, you can run the back panel to the floor. The small clips must be mounted at a certain distance from the top. I've remembered seeing that in the instructions.
