I don't waste time with bedding. I use loctite molly paste on the receiver, barrel extension and threads. If you torque the barrel nut appropriately, the receiver/barrel extension becomes one solid unit. The lapping tool is a marketing gimmick.
4 месяца назад
I think the lapping would have more validity if you knew the barrel flange mating surface was also true, not sure how you could true it or check it with that alignment pin present
I absolutely love Geissele hand guards except for the price. I’m working on a dedicated 22 AR that’s turning into an expensive rabbit hole. I need a bit of rail at 6 o’clock as I use a bipod occasionally. The AGL might save me some money. I have a bipod adapter but the mounting screws hit my barrel. So, I’m still researching this.
My last upper assembly I got another bcm blem stripped upper and a fn 16" chrome lines barrel. The git was so tight I had to use heat as I usually do with the bcm uppers but this time it was even tighter so I had to use a clamp then barrel nut to pull it the remaining way into the upper. I will typically use loctite green 620 if it's loose but ever since swapping all my uppers to bcm there hasn't been a need as they mill the upper slightly undersize.
Blue loctite is not a retaining compound meant to fill gaps. Neither is green loctite (290). What you want to fill the gaps is one of the Loctite Retaining compounds, which are their 600 series. They just happen to be green. Not to be confused with green threadlocker.
So much conflicting information out there about installing a barrel. I heard/read all sort of stuff; use Aero-Shell ant-seize grease, never use loctite you’ll never get it out again. Never shim the barrel to the upper, chemical reaction with the different metals may cause a fire, too tight a fit and the upper will crack and the gun will blow up on you. Don’t drive the barrel into the upper, by striking the muzzle, it’ll cause the barrel to jam in the upper at an angle and you could knock the lands into the grooves or knock its crown off. Also, you installed the barrel nut wrong, that clamp shell thing is for holding the upper and not a replacement for an action rod (are we going fishing?). Don’t over torque, don’t under torque the nut somewhere between thirty and sixty pounds is good. No shims, except between the barrel and nut and only if you can’t get that gas tube to slide just right through a notch in the nut and be perfectly straight. One of the most critical operations of putting one together, thanks for the fine job and detail.
" Never shim the barrel to the upper, chemical reaction with the different metals may cause a fire, too tight a fit and the upper will crack and the gun will blow up on you." You overstate several things here, I'll give you credit and suppose you're being funny. "Cause a fire," no, not just from using a shim. Not even close. Do you mean galvanic corrosion? Possible but mitgated with anti-seize of the appropriate compound/formula. "Too tight a fit and the upper will crack"? No, unless you don't know how to work on metallic things using tolerance fits, and don't know how to properly support each piece being worked. In other words, if you're not mechanically adept you can cause all kinds of problems. But shim stock doesn't cause fires and improving your extension/throat fit doesn't risk explosion or anything else. I suggest you, @sixoffive, avoid using all sharp objects. For your own safety.
@@seanoneil277 Yes, all good and fine observations and recommendations. Gotta be careful lost of misinformation on the inter web with all those commie bots everywhere. However, I cannot comply to your recommendations. You see, I enjoy a good run from time to time with scissors. I will try to think of you next time I do. Run with scissors.
All this is just a bunch of bs, started by these anal ( supposedly) gun builders. Do check the front of your receiver for burrs or whatnot, if it’s flat, slid your barrel in areo shell the threads and tightened your barrel nut down. I guarantee you, none of these gun manufacturers go through all that sh*t when they build their rifles. These people making a mountain out of a mole hill are redicioulas!!!!!
Use a rubber band to keep the shim wrapped around the barrel extension while inserting the barrel. When the barrel is almost all the way in, cut the rubber band. When cutting the shim to size, do not use serrated scissors. Don't use green Loctite if you want to be able to easily remove the barrel. It's frick'n awful.
Is there a lot of room under the handgaurds for the existing gas block? Thinking I’d leave the front original and have the taper and cut it off towards the back and copy the rest of your work for the rear side.
would like to know how it works in CQB conditions ? Thanks for answer should of watch before I ask, I use a 11.8 inch barrel so my 75 grain is off more lines up with out to 400 , which is fine
Pencil barrel? Has anyone tried lapping the barrel nut to the barrel flange? If the upper threads, nut threads, and nut clamping surface aren't coaxial, it will clamp unevenly, but I can't say I know that would matter.
Holy hell🤣, I've been looking for that handguard. I'm doing this tomorrow lol. I have that exact barrel and I've always said I was going to put the front sight base exactly where u put yours. Because I have a carbine length hand guard and I like goon tape(bat tape), I'm going to keep both factory ends and cut a small section out of the center to size and then halfway kind of glue them back together and when I put it back on the barrel, I'll just make 1 small wrap of goon tape to hide the seam and I'm ok if it's not perfect lol. I've actually turned mine into a dedicated. 22lr. I removed the gas tube(because it's not needed with the cmmg 22 conversion) and I put the gas block on backwards to cover the gas port so gasses wouldn't escape from it. I took the buffer tube off(not needed) and put a KNS picattiny plug where the gas tube is supposed to go and now I have the sb tactical side folding brace on it that hooks up to the picattiny. People are always like "wth is that" lol. It's actually great and never gives me any trouble and it's a hit at all the family get togethers, the kids love it and all the big kids love it too😁. But thank u for putting this out, I've always wanted to do it and after seeing yours I'm definitely doing it. It's gonna look like a baby xm177e1 with a side folding brace that shoots 22lr 😁. Now the question is, what red dot to put on top of it? That's the actual look I've always wanted. Take it easy man
Thank you for this comparison - I am already a PA fan - I have just ordered this for a Galil Ace rifle in 62x39 - your video comparison just affirms my decision!! Great vid , you now have a new sub
Insanely good information and comparison of the three optics. In my opinion, the PA 2X GLX is a winner. I use Eotech EXPS3-0 on my Colt LE6920 SOCOM but l will definitely order the PA for my Arsenal SAM7R along with a Midwest Industries ACOG mini mount. Thanks for taking time to do this video! 👍👍
I’ve been shooting for 36 years, military retired, own lots of high quality goodies. I am saying all that because I think you did an amazing job on the video. I subscribed
Hey what’s up man, trying to get a hold of you regarding these hand guards, left a comment on the blog site, what’s the best way to get in touch with you directly?
Great review, appreciate the different optic/view comparisons. I got mine about a week ago or so. Waiting on optic mount but have been playing with diopter. I can’t get it to work without glasses (chevron looks broken up) but is crystal clear with glasses.
Wonderful review. I have one PA 2x prism from their first release in May. Very clear glass from edge to edge. I've had it mounted on a couple of different AKs and they are perfect for those. I also have 3 of the Cyclops and 3 of the 3x prism scopes from PA. All of them are very nice. I have an mild astigmatism, so the Cyclops works better for me than red dots. I prefer them even over my wife's Aimpoint T2 even though the T2 is the only red dot where the dot is perfectly clear to my eyes. But it is an $800 option. I don't find the reticle or even the chevron too small in the Cyclops. I find it easier to use when mounted further to the rear using a shorter eye relief. I've compared one of my 3x prism to a TA31 ACOG and it seemed very similar in clarity. The clarity of the PA prism optics is much better than their budget variable power optics.
Yes, great optic, mount sucks, mine cracked as has many others, Primary Arms a little slow on honoring replacement but I am sure I will get a replacement someday?
Very well done review. Thank you for showing the difference in FOV, Glass clarity, light transmission & Reticle. Sold me - Now PA tells me I must wait till September...I own 1x Cyclops, 2.5x, 3x, 5x, 2x6 FFP LPVO - I am sold on Primary Arms. Thanx & you now you have another subscriber --> Keep up the good work.
I just installed my V3 ALG and I love it. I have a BCM KMR, and a Midwestindustries M-lock gen 3 also. The ALG V3 reminds me of the Troy VTAC alpha , but way stronger.
The final question is how durable it is and only time will tell. I really like the optic. I have an astigmatism and this optic would be a game changer.
That's more of a consideration for variable power scopes and dual/tri role prismatic sights. A modern prismatic optic of decent quality should have more than enough durability simply because of its optical design.
The FOV on the TA-45 is 25.6 ft. at 100 yards with an eye relief of 3.9 inches while the TA-44 (the updated and more common 1.5x ACOG) has a FOV of 39 ft. at 100 yards with an eye relief 2.4 inches. While the PA GLx 2X has a FOV of 42 ft. at 100 yards and an eye relief 3.5 inches. In terms of the ratio of eye relief to FOV in addition to the fact that the PA has slightly more magnification (which reduces FOV) shows that it seems to be a better optical design. The only reason I include the eye relief is because it has a proportional relationship to FOV, one can often sacrifice eye relief to gain a lot of FOV. This is very common in poor and/or dated designs like TA31. An Elcan fixed 4x has a bit more FOV than the popular ACOG TA31, arguably better glass and 83% more eye relief at the same time. It is much more impressive to have a good field of view while maintaining a reasonable eye relief than neglecting eye relief to have large and expansive FOVs. Thank you for the overview
