I just bought one of these (the 15MHz model), its a great piece of test gear for the price ($99 on Amazon.) It could probably use some type of ballast inside the case, like a steel plate or two to keep it from shifting around on the workbench so easily, but otherwise its a great deal for the money. Thank you for the review.
I don't think that thing is measuring the velocity and then you can say "plus it's way more volume." It's basically measuring the force of all that air, which is heavily influenced by the volume. So the can and the machine are basically pushing about the same amount of air through there. The can pushes it at a much higher velocity through the straw and then it spreads out and slows down as it exists the straw, so it's probably going about the same speed as the machine. So if you need to push a ton of pressure on a single dust-bunny, the can is better. I wasn't really paying close attention, so if that thing is supposed to be a "velocity-ometer" it's probably under the assumption that the cross-section of the air hitting it is the same in both cases, which is not the case here. Instead, it's a small stream of the can, vs. the large stream of the machine.
actually, the canister air-blower reached the 31 marks in 9 seconds and it took the cordless one 10 seconds to reach the same, after that you kept using the cordless blower which increases the speed (obviously), but you did not do the same with the canister.Also, the angle you use the cordless blower after the 10 seconds mark is much more favorable.
@D Congrats! You win the award for Not-Being-A-Dumb-Average Consumer! hehe ;) So the reviewer is a bit biased with what you mentioned and the can can probably blow a bit higher in speed. However, I'd say the more important thing is making sure he was pressing hard enough to let the can blow at full speed which u don't know unless this was a more scientific review. Even so, the electric blower is pretty impressive and since we aren't buying a car transmission or engine or anything super complex and expensive here, I'd just buy the can and return it if it didn't work out. Too bad the Opolar brand doesn't seem to be on Amazon anymore. I can tell u they make great fans though (I bought like 3 of their USB fans)
I am assuming you are referring to a "741" op amp? You can generate both the carrier wave and the audio modulation from this generator out of each channel.
Nice demo. One question though: what is the lowest START frequency for the sweep? I am asking that so I can judge how useful is this for frequency response measurements, say in audio range. It seems that Koolerton and FY 6800 are the same.
What happens if the component is bad? I purchased the Drok based on you Amazon Review. I watched a lot of RU-vid reviews for the Drok Transistor Tester, but no one shows what happens when testing a bad component.
Ok, I'm a year late, but answering now :-). Unfortunately, the answer is "it depends". It really depends on the type of component and in what way it is damaged. For capacitors it may read a different value than the marking on the capacitor, which would mean the cap is bad, or it could measure as open and will state "unknown component or not connected". Resistors that have overheated could also read the wrong the value, which indicates they are bad. Coils/inductors generally fail when the wire insulation has been compromised (usually due too much current causing the insulation to melt) this causes the wire turns to short-out and reduces the measured inductance. So I guess the answer is, you would have to be testing a known part with a known value. If the reader says it is an unknown part, or returns a different value than expected then it's possible the part is bad.
Lambda No, you connect the CH1 output of the signal generator to a Channel Input on your scope. Of course it depends on what you want to do as there could also be a reason to connect it to the trigger, but for standard/basic operation it is connected from Channel out to Channel In
