Brian, I think you do really good work. However what I find most impressive is your patience. I usually get so excited to see the results of what I did, that I screw it up. LOL
The front is 3", and the back is 5". I used a kit from Classic Performance Parts. The spindles are 2" drop, with 1" drop springs, then the back is 5" dropped springs, with relocation mounts for the shocks and track bar. Here is a link to the project on my web site. www.murfjunction.com/pages/c10_pickup/lowering.html
And it's surprising how many times I forget to actually disconnect it, then laugh at myself when I realize why the dash seems stuck! But I never forget the oil pressure line, which is more of a pain in the ass to get disconnected than the speedo! LOL!
@@MurfJunction I found it was easier for me to take the seat out in order to get my aged body in a place where I could get to the oil pressure gauge a little better. All in all a very good concise video sir. Thank you.
In the manual that comes with the tach, it walks you through the setup. You configure it for 4, 6, or 8 cylinders through a few simple steps, using a programming wire on the harness. I did this on the bench before I installed it, but it was very straight forward. I should have covered that in the video.
@@TheNachoDaddy Thanks! Hope to do some more videos this fall. Unfortunately working on home projects is keeping me out of the garage, just enjoying the new reliable transmission and good driving weather! 👍🏻
Good work and video, Brian! I also like the straight talk with no inane filler. Additionally, I love your wheel stands. I will make some for my '63 C10. Are you able to provide the dimensions? Thanks. Now on to part 2...
@@waynewebb7377 Thanks for the positive feedback! Here are the dimensions of my pedestals. 21” x 10-1/2”. I don’t recall how I landed on those dimensions, but they work well on everything I’ve put on them so far. When installing this transmission, I added an additional tier to them to make the installation easier with the lower suspension I have. This link will show you a little additional detail on that. www.murfjunction.com/pages/c10_pickup/700r4.html
Very nice. I wasn't expecting my rear gear change to raise my RPM as much as it did on my TH350 with my '72 C10, so now I'm researching the 700-r4. Doesn't seem too difficult, just gathering parts and getting the driveshaft shortened.
@@hdrolling my gear change was kind of an accident, but I had always planned a 700-r4 anyway. Pretty straight forward conversion, this was my third, and wanted to document things, like the exact amount the crossmember shifted back, and the driveline length change. When I told the driveline guy to take 3” off the front section, he commented “700-r4 conversion, huh?” 😁
Really enjoyed your video, I swapped my 71 from a 3 on the tree to a 700r4 this last winter and it’s so much nicer to drive. For my converter lock up I visited my local U pull it wrecking yard and removed the factory lock up set up from a 83 and used the brake light switch as well this allowed me to let the system work as it would in my truck, I did however install a switch to shut it off when putting in town but otherwise I have lockup in 3rd and 4th gear. For my transmission lines I used a set for a 72 chevell worked like a charm, no bending required. Again great video thanks for posting it.
I found the parts on Amazon. Here are links to all of the pieces: Relays: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P1D1K64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PC Boards: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Z7Y19F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Screw Terminals: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088LVP6ML/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Button: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GTJBR59/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes. The cable reached without any issue. The location was just slightly further than on the TH350, but it just made it a slightly tighter bend, but no binding.
The second line is a return to the fuel tank to prevent vapor lock. It lets a small amount of fuel return through a .060 restriction, just enough to keep the gas from boiling on hot days.
Excellent work. I watched your first video earlier this week and was disappointed that part 2 wasn't available to watch. But I was excited when I saw it posted this afternoon. I'm likely going to put a 700R4 in my '72 C10 so I'm very thankful that you detailed everything so well from start to finish. I'm curious how GM handled the TV cable and TC lockup on the squarebody trucks that got the 700R4 in the 80s. Is there a reason why it's not possible to adapt that particular setup? Thanks again for making these two videos!
Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it, and hope it will make your conversion go smoothly. As far as the TV cable connection, I did consider looking for a GM bracket, and use an OE cable, but the Lokar setup is so adjustable for both the throttle and TV cables, it's my preference. I showed my TC lock solution to my transmission builder, and his comment was that it is similar to what GM did, but they also have a speed sensor integrated to enable it. My interpretation is that it is so integrated, it's not a just module you can take out. Good luck with your project.
Brian, I really enjoyed this "how to" video on working on a 72 C10 dash cluster. I inherited my Dad's 72 C10 that he purchased new. I plan on removing the dash cluster and replacing the lens and circuit boards. I also want to replace the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs like you did on yours. Where did you purchase your LED bulbs? I haven't been able to find any....Ken
Thanks for this video, very pertinent information. I am planning to do the exact swap on my 72 Cheyenne. Did the swap from a pulse sending unit to a gear driven speedometer come as a kit or did you purchase the components separately ? If a kit, where did you purchase from ? What information did you need to determine correct gears, reared ratio, tire size, or ? Thank you very much in advance
@genequesinberry5933 Thanks for watching the video. To address your questions; I didn't get a kit, but that is not to say they aren't available. I got the speedometer parts on Amazon, from the "LA Speedometer Gear" store. All of the parts I have gotten from them have been perfect fit and cannot distinguish them from original GM. As for knowing what gears to get, I use a gear calculator on a transmission parts web site. This is also a great place to get parts, but I get the free shipping on Amazon. transmissioncenter.net/shop/speedometer-gear-calculator/
Thanks for great video. Props on camera positioning lighting and just overall editing alot of videos are just frustrating to follow for beginners to get a good understanding I find alot of content creators forget its not just about going threw the steps as much as how you explain it to a novice so they feel confident in actually attempting it themselves. Definitely earned a new subscriber...
Thanks for posting this. My '71 C10 already has a 700R4 but it was cool to see what it takes to put it in. I'm looking forward to the Part 2 video as the PO mickey moused a bunch of stuff and I don't think the trans is set up right. I think I blew the trans yesterday so I'm looking at a rebuild and then getting it set up correctly. I don't think the lock up was ever set up on it.
Hi , Great video. I see you must of moved to a different gas tank. What did you switch to and how did you cover up the stock fill tube on the cab? Thanks
Thanks Jeff. As for the stock gas filler hole, LMC Truck has a pre-cut and shaped piece of metal for the hole I welded in. The gas tank is a pretty standard rear mount tank. I can't remember if I used the LMC one or not. Here is a link to my web site with the pictures I took on that project. www.murfjunction.com/pages/c10_pickup/gastank.html
This is really great work. You have a good space, but you haven't rammed it full of 'stuff'' . The gentle curves, large radius switches, the less is more approach have paid massive dividends in terms of capturing realism as best we can. Congratulations on an awesome piece of modelling. Phil
Your layout looks interesting from the viewing angle offered by the GoPro. Do you have a overall layout video? Panning out so we can see the room and how the layout occupies the space Nice scenery.
Thank you. I have been thinking that I need to do a walk around of the layout. Hopefully that will be happening soon, now that I have a good base established on the new area.
@@stephenvanvliet9812 I am running 15x8 rally's as well, and I believe with 4" backspacing. With the drop spindle, the rim is a tight fit to the bottom control arm. I had to clearance the brake dust shield, and have the wheels balanced without edge weights. FYI, my tires are P245/60R15. That is approx. a 26" diameter.
Just subscribed to your channel after watching your G-Stock Tach install Video. Just recently installed a rebuilt small block .030 over 400 small block block in my 72 C10 and isn't it just a great feeling when it fires up and you head out on the first ride.
Sorry I don't check for messages often enough. And not an issue with the year question 😉 I do plenty of the myself! Especially if it's right in front of me. 👍
I would much rather have what you did than the "stock" tach. I got all excited to have a tach console until I got to see how unreadable it is. Set way too far back into the housing and I'm too tall to see it even close to straight on. Way to go with this one. Looks awesome
Thank you sir for the video. You did a great job. Im restoring my Grandpa's 70 C10. He bought it new and i used to drive it in the hay fields when i was 5. Im 51 now. lol
