If you’re changing your lower control arm at home, do not follow this video. It is not necessary to take off any thing except for the tire to get to the lower control arm.
I do same thing. And I use Coper anti size under spring bracket ( that’s going in caliper bracket) and under rotor hub surface, clean everything to metal and always check with file for nick’s and rust build ups that looks like metal after wire brush I’m taking about flatnesses of mating surface’s and very important thing is to let air out pin boot wen you put it in and after you pumped break’s (with something holding rotors tide to hub I use old axle nuts with your regular wheel nut. As far as putting grease under pad end yes it will collect dust but they will move dust not rust. Depends on a car how much to put on it and Quality of parts. (Dust on metal without grease will cause pad to size up in bracket) I’ve been doing that for at lest 22 years and probably only now can charge extra for my brake job because it lasts and cars getting better gas mileage when it’s done properly, and next time it’s easy to clean and you not going to run it to stock rotors to the hub. It takes a lot of time to clean everything and expense for good grease supplies. ( the book labor does not include cleaning extra rust off) but it’s worth it. I usually use centric premium brakes or oem pads and cupel other brands that usually not in stock. Nothing good happens quickly. Or cheap.
Retired construction mechanic. I used to frustrate me that the color code for the RV style plugs doesn't match the standard SAE color code. Makes more work for whoever has to wire the trailer.
Everything is good except for putting that grease on slide pins. It makes rubber swell. You can either use 100% silicone or Toyota Lithium soap base glycol grease on the pins.
Dark horse I'm about to drop my transmission and put a new one in my 2003 F350 7.3.l ... My question is can I drop my transfer case first without tampering with my transmission? And should I drain my transfer case fluid before taking it out?.. please reply back thank you sir..
Yeah you can take the transfer case out separately from the transmission, then drop the trans by itself. I usually remove and reinstall them as an assembly though. You don't have to drain the fluid out of either one before removal, although draining will make them a little bit lighter and possibly less messy if you happen to tip one too far over, less to leak out of the vents.
@@darkhorseautoanddiesel thank you sir I really appreciate you getting back with me. You were a big help! 👍.. now I can get back to work !!.. thanks again!..
Don't forget, never put grease on the tip of the grease pins. The brake pads will not open and close properly if gooped on the tip. Only a thin layer on the caliper piston ring.
I see that 90% of techs don't even open the bleeder on the caliper before they push the caliper piston back during a brake job. Alot of people THINK they know what they're doing. Most do not. I use a wire brush on all contact and rest areas, like under the clips. Then, I'll spray a little brake cleaner on cleaned areas, then apply a thin layer of multi-plex grease on the contact points and underneath the clips. The grease will help prevent rust under the clips and allow the pads to slide easily. The key is to apply a thin layer.
I had this issue but just go to AutoZone and use a pulley installer and remover kit they're like green plastic guides (real cheap,,,2 bucks?) for the pulley where the belt meets and it'll fit on the ridges and u just turned it,,it's sled explanatory and it's got a remove and install label on them, on this engine however it's very cramped (i love front wheel drive) so I had to use heavy duty cutters to trim off the plastic bits that stick out where your fingers normally go so that i can fit it inside and sometimes u may need to experiment like putting the piece backwards and maybe use the remover as the install and vice versa, u can put it on the idler pulley and alternator and A/C and use the tool on the crank pulley to make life easier and turn the crank and itll go right on or use something like a big ass adjustable crescent wrench on top of the engine bay on the idler pulley and then put the belt on easy peasy as for power steering it may take a couple tries it loves to slip and those belts are usually TIGHT and dont cheap out on belts EVER on rock auto this specific engine gave me issues with aftermarket parts sonce they cheaped out on third party products and cut corners... The belt i ordered wasn't as stretchy and was SMALLER so definitely hit up AutoZone and/or O'Reilly's and then use the tool i previously mentioned and itll be awkward but push with the tool from under clockwise until it feeds up, make sure u don't slip the wrench from the crank as u can cut ur finger like half an inch of skin from banging it on there (as the hit was fast and sharp for me it didn't hurt) if that does happen it'll heal on its own or u can yank it (I was a sissy and let it grow and fall off) it may look like it's falling off thats okay let it happen lol,,,,ANYWAYS,, once u feed it on the power steering pump bc it's SUCH A TIGHT FIT it may be a couple teeth off the pulley just run the tool again and it should fix it dont run the engine might work momentarily but bc of the rotational stress on the outer lio biting the belt at the edge itll slowly fray and rip apart....hope this hells anyone,,and as for the pulley, buy the correct pulley tool and remlve it or i BELIEVE i once saw someone use a pulley remover tool from renting a tool from AutoZone/oreileys for a Chrysler....looks the same and works I didn't do it so dont take my word it'll 100% work and my memory be off but DAMN i wish i woildve known that....hours using the wrong tool and method I actually chipped it and had ti get another from the jinkyard off a Lincoln the same way luckily it didnt break and i instlled it with working it and jerking it on,,,don't reccoment ny method but it was a parking lot job in the dead kf the night...you feel me? Good luck to any unfortunate souls doing a water pump or anything on that side of the engine ive been there,,,good luck hope this helps a million years more and one more thing there a power steering pump pulley that sits JUST SLIGHTLY in the way of the bolt,,,take the pump off,,,,don't round the bolt off,,,,no,,u didn't make it spin,,,no it won't come off,,,stop doubting ur doubts,,,do it please ik its a pain but trust me and as for the engine mount bracket that sits ON the engine next to the idler pulley, lower the engine with a hydraulic or a scissor jack the manual crank ones and a piece of wood on the oil pan,,,trust me itll be fine,,,okay,,,,sorry,,,,hope this helps,,,,phew,,,,I'm tired just remembering all this....
I just did front brake pads and rotors on my 2007 fj cruiser and got a horrible squeal. Have had the brakes apart now twice trying to rid the squeal noise. Tried greasing the hell out the back of the pads and contact points. No luck. Any input is appreciated. Using toyota genuine pads and rotors..
