1st MGTD and you spent more time showing how to get the 4 bolts off the drive shaft then how to pull the hub if it is stuck on. The wheels hubs are almost a non-replacable item if you brake one.
That is good advise to practice practice and more practice with hammer and dollies. You can always make your own dollies out of a lot of different scrap metal. Pip, chuck of steel in different shapes, I made my own slap spoon. Just make shire most of your dies and dollies are smooth
i just did this job. and although i didn't remove my radiator, removing it would have been the most difficult part of this job. in that the hood would have had to be removed too. i really, REALLY didn't want to remove the hood and paid dearly for not doing it. trust me. it was not necessarily by choice as i was working alone feared that the paint on the hood panels had a very good chance of being damaged if it were removed and installed without assistance. :) BTW, the new repro rack i used was about 1/8" larger in diameter (at two points) than the old one. making it necessary, in my case, to loosen the radiator hoses and most importantly the two nuts attached to the studs that hold it to the cross member. the "engine steady" bracket also had to be removed (major, MAJOR PITA!) too because my TD is right hand drive. yes, it was imported to the U.S. at some point in its history. there are a few other items that need mentioning.... 1) the tie rods ENDS will need to be removed and 2) the tie rods will need to be moved left and right to their limits multiple times. this task is very difficult as the steering wheel will have already been detached and the only way to move them is by rotating the short stub shaft that is still connected to the rack (hands may bleed). this is not only a physical exercise, but a mental one as well. geometry plays a part here...as it is not at all obvious as to how and when to move the tie rods to their limits or to which side. eventually, one may be able to remove the rack this way. when that time came, in my case, it was not at all clear as to the order of the manipulations or the timing of them. IOW, it was a small surprise when it eventually came out. so there was an additional learning curve on re-assembly. i should mention that i DID remove the bumper and the splash pan completely during this process. it made access to the rack during removal and installation that much easier. notice how often the host is resting... he's tired. trying to manipulate that rack is exhausting. i was weak as a kitten after removal AND after installation. looks like he had a devil of a time getting that tie rod end off too. installing the new rack may be just as difficult. and ya, i eyeballed the toe-in too, using the brake drums as a reference, it was sufficient until i got the car to someone that could do a proper job of it. i will say this though. having a worn out rack made for a miserable and slightly dangerous driving experience. the new rack is an absolute delight!!!
Great Vid, I liked your versatility going from cars to bikes. Goes to show what true blemishes that hide under paint. I'm sure the bike owner is proud of your work, awesome work.
Very thorough; I suggest you subscribe to Mike Fn Garage channel here. The man is a living encyclopedia on body work; especially old VW’s; he’s done major surgery on Ghias, Single Cabs, Buses and Bugs. You’ll enjoy it and find a bunch of pointers.
Congrats; I believe you’re building this right with the right suppliers. Kudos on the Vintage Speed exhaust, Kaddie Shack Kadrons, the 110 cam, 90.5 jugs and the Pertronix; all perfect, reliable and long lasting for a mild street car. By the way great call on keeping the OEM fan housing and cooling tins and resisting the temptation to go for flashy aftermarket that doesn’t cool properly. My first car was a ‘69 Ghia way back around 1980. I still tinker with these cars. Looking forward to the progress on this project.
informative video. :) i'm pretty sure the rear bearings are lubricated from the 90w oil/grease that is in the differential/axle housing and are not designed to be grease with real grease. and i suspect the bolt that was leaking was a drain plug of sorts. as it was clear that a bit of oil remains in the axle housings even after the differential has been drained. as noted, a failure of the rear bearing seal will flood the entire inside of the brakedrum and brake shoe area. new shoes will be required. mine failed because the axle nuts were finger tight and not torqued to somewhere between 150 and 200 ft/lbs like they are supposed to be.
Dogbone on top. (For those who didn’t know) This is the most complete walkthrough on yt. Thank you. Going to do an install and tune video still? Doing this in a day or so with the boy on our ‘71 bus. 👍 1776cc dual carb, dual port, 110 cam, merged headers, balanced crank, alternator, 009 flamethrower distributor (non svda).
@@foggydesigns congrats on the fam expansion. With your video and the old @kaddieShack videos we hope to be able to tune these up fine. Putting on velocity stacks!
I did enjoy watching the video but just wanted to ask if you usually install the float retainer (dogbone) under the float I’ve run these carbs down 30 + years all of mine have the dogbone on top holding the float in place ? Just asking
I try to stick to the way that “the complete kadron manual” by Frank Camper and Steve Ward say. I’ll need to rewatch the video and see what I did tho. It has been a minute since ive gotten into these.
i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid lost my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Duncan Sonny thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I'd try a pry Bay on the back to push it out a little before a stud gun I find more control .. good video but Camara angle is not quite the nicest hard to see ... I made 4 different spoons from old leaf springs from cars the spring steel works great. I even made a sharp curved one like a "V" shape for creases.
Great video. I'll be subbing and liked already. One thing that is very hard to tell on camera is how 'wavy' that metal is. I think it would be interesting if you put some sort of 'straight' edge with light behind it to see the waves. You could show the other side if it's pretty good and then the side that isn't.
A black guide coat and quick long board sanding with about 100 or 80 grit paper to give a contrast would have been nice to see what is happening better... For sure 🤔
