Jim is a Dehavilland Beaver Seaplane Pilot with 12,000 plus hours on floats and mostly in Beavers. Living in Seattle is such a great place to be based out of. Fights include all of Vancouver Island, the coastal mountains of British Columbia, the Cascade and Olympic Mountains, coastal fishing lodges, yacht transfers, Alaska and so much more. He spends his winters skiing the Cascades and BC. He also creates tons of How-to videos on everything from woodworking to his business selling KITTY COTS, the World's BEST Cat Perch. #ifoundjim #JimthePilot
Hay Jim!! Your videos are awesome!! It was nice to meet you today at Marks house. I’ll be checking out all your airplane videos as I find time in the near future. Hopefully see you soon so I can ask you some questions about getting my pilots license…
Do it either way, as long as the teeth are running away at the bottom of the cut. Some rips are done on very wide pieces such as plywood and you may be ripping a sheet inhalf at 24". This is done the way he shows. But heavier or thicker pieces can be done theother way, feeding from the right by rotating teh head 180 degress. This way, you benefit from the maximum stiffness of the position closest to the pillar. No matter: Follow ALL the ruiles and the odds are no worse than using a table saw. Personally, I would favor using the old cast iron DeWalt or early Delta/Rockwell saws. They are more sturdy, rigid, and may I say, quieter.
16 pulls…💪🏻dumbass…had to be primed “obviously 😂” didn’t check the CHOKE lever because so excited to make your stupid and informative video! what a joke 😂😂😂
Envious of the otter and beaver drivers. I have about 17 hours of stick time in a super cub (about 15 years ago) but would love to get back on track to fly again.
Well, that push stick really did a lot of good, LOL! I think I'd want a pawl or a set of board buddies for doing that. Been thinking of getting an old DeWalt shopmaster as they're fairly inexpensive in this area...at least on fb marketplace. Most are from $25 to $75 but have seen the industrial ones on there in the thousands. Thankfully I don't need an industrial one.
Hi Jim, love these videos! You had a couple videos around the same time as this one but I can't seem to find them anymore. One was a pre flight walkaround and the other was a 'how to start' but was a longer video with additional commentary. Are these videos still up somewhere? Cheers!
Just about every day I walk out to my shop. I find every machine that I left plugged in my shop has switched itself on overnight. You are right, just never know when that saw may start right up. Not only do I unplug them I cut the plugs off of them, switch the main of in my shop, call the power company to pull the meter, then disconnect the powerline feeding my shop as well. I then check to make sure no thunderstorms are around. Lightning could strike my shop and power up all my equipment. Then I change the blade.
I know this video is 9 years old, but hoping someone will see this and put me out of my misery. I got the upper and lower handle connected just fine, but can't get those little teeth on the lower handle to engage or the cam locks to close. The orange handle on the lower cam locks feels like it's going to snap when I try to close it unless it's all the way loose... but then the teeth have almost a quarter inch gap between them. I feel like I'm probably doing something wrong that's extremely obvious?
You always avoid "climb cuts" where the teeth of the blade/cutter are pulling themselves into the work piece. The principle is true for any circular saw, router, or planer. And Jim, where are your anti-kickback pawls ?? Please revise this video to show their correct use. You should explain that crosscuts on a radial arm saw are the only time a climb cut is recommended. Also, I see you are placing your hand within 3 inches of a running saw blade. And I saw you removing offcuts while the blade is still spinning. Bad idea. You can get away with it sometimes,, but not every time.
Thanks Dad.....I mean Jim. I read the manual 3x and I could've started using my new lawn mower 2 weeks ago if I had just watched your video! Thank you so much for posting this!
Not some people, but all professionals use a jointer. This is just way more dangerous and I would not recommend it to any amateur trying to cut hardwood for the first time.
This guy does not speak candidly -- first, the instructions are horrible -- unless you already know how to put it together, or already put things like this together regularly -- in that case of course you do not need instructions. He is selling this, not explaining it.
