Fermentation well underway, I'll update you on the progress docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HMKbj0enekDj30N2zh1Y1zDiVfPHSoizZeuVUvOTBWw/edit?gid=734290882#gid=734290882
Hey Ron! It was 85% Pilsner malt, 10% Light Munich, 5% Chit. - Then Flex for 12.5 IBU's at 60min, 6.8 IBUs of Mosaic & 7.7IBU's of Strata both at 10mins. 1.25 g/l of Mosaic and Strata for whirlpool (30mins at 80c) and the 1.25 g/l of Centennial, Mosaic and Strata on the Dry Hop. We did a 40l batch to split over the two FV's
Hi guys enjoying the channel. Recently got into homebrewing, on my 3rd go now. Have a question though, I bought "Morgans Extra Pale Malt Extract 1.5kg" to go with a morgans english ale kit, does this malt extract replace the brew enhancer I used on the last two runs, or is it supposed to be used in addition to enhancer?
You could certainly use this to replace the brew enhancer and it will result in a much better end result than using sugar, or potentially the brew enhancer.
I always used to squeeze the bottle until the beer is right to the top of the neck to get rid of any air, then hold it 'til I fit the cap. That way there's only CO2 in the headspace after secondary fermentation. Also best to store the bottles in a dark place. Even the brown bottles will get light struck. They just take longer.
Brilliant video. I love the fact you’ve kept it real and celebrated the fact not everything goes to plan. However, in many cases the failure leads to some great learning. Well done on your 1st recipe. 👏👏👏👏
Great video, just like the rest! The recipe kit just arrived Did you make the recipe in Brewfather by any chance? Where should I start with the water profile?
I think we did but cant remember fully! We kept it really simple and used our Murphys water report to get the water as close to spec as we could, just using their IPA recommendations
This is exactly how I started, it’s an addictive hobby. Before you know it your experimenting with hops, different yeast, some BIAB with all the great malted grains you can now easily get hold of. Beer making is fantastic and so is enjoying the fruits of your labour. I’ve got a brew on the go that I’m bottling off today. Give it a go you won’t be disappointed, the guys at Malt Miller have everything you need👍
Thanks lads, my remote video brewing with daughter at university me using grainfather, her using basic beer kit buckets (to date) as baby step learning curve, this video gives her a wider perspective in a hobby which she has to keep compact in order to pack away each year, she's at home right now so am giving her lessons across the board, my explanations suck, yours are concise, ..bottling is a no go in her uni digs so sodastream dispensing route taken, ...thanks for the Keeping It Simple approach!
Pressure Fermenting and serving from something like a keg king junior or chubby is a game changer for having no space especially as you can serve a decent amount of beer from the natural co2 created.
@@Jaystars Agreed, it is merely a university dorm room space, thus she needs the newish lightweight oxebar kegs which she can hang from a string bag & hook when not in use, you "brew with what you can". nobody bats an eye if you have a sodastream type & size gas cylinder, they get a bit funny if it is much bigger
Excellent video gents, I'm currently using an allrounder and it is much better than the glass carboys. I do have kind of a sidebar question though, more of an opinion, I set my spunding valve at about 5-7psi after 4-5 days of fermentation and let it finish out fermentation while naturally carbonating. The questions is, which do you prefer, natural carb or carbing from a "commercial" source? I have found that natural carbing seems to end up with a bit of a smoother beer, not so much co2 burn if you will.
It really depends on the beer style we are brewing. If it has lots of hops added at any stage such as an IPA or NEIPA then we force carb after fermentation so as to not put too much pressure on the beer and risk muting the hop aroma. Most other styles then we will try to naturally carb as you suggest
Well, I didn't win, but my daughter is now brewing via video.with dad, her uni accommodation has no problem with her brewing "safely" & have asked for samples to be left at the front desk, she is happy to oblige & the staff are waiting for results, will be treating her to some cheap PET kegging / dispensing kit as she gets there, nice lightweight solution that can be hung in a string bag on a spare hook when not in use.
This is one of the best comments we've had. Love that you are passing on the love of the hobby to her and that she is doing this at Uni! I bet shell be super popular with everyone wanting to try her beers!! If we can support in any way, let us know!
That looks like a fine beer to me. The imperial stout I recently made (still fermenting) I over sparged by a few litres so had to boil 4 litres of runnings down to a syrup on the hob and add them into the kettle during the boil. OG was only a few points out (1.108 instead of 1.119) but it’s hit the FG1.028. It tastes fantastic so far. Transferring to secondary tonight onto cocoa nibs and oak chips. Sláinte!
Is there a really basic guide to brewing under pressure with a 3.2? I'm really struggling. I've read through the PDF, but it almost mentions it as an "aside". I've watched the @Kegland video, but it's all theoretical and more like sales patter. In one of your latest videos, you've said "We covered this", but you haven't. Literally, a step-by-step guide or instructions would be really helpful. I keep reading things like "Pressurise to 10psi", but I need to dry hop and it says for pressure ferm, you need to keep the butterfly open and the container connected, so how am I supposed to do this?
Hey! It might be worth checking out our pressure fermentation play list, across all these you should get everything you need. Any remaining questions, drop us an email at hello@themaltmiller.co.uk. The basics we alway recommend are that you should try to define the difference in your fermentation, if you're using lots of hops (West Coast or NEIPA) then very low pressure, no more than a couple of PSI as higher will inhibit the flavour and aroma from the hops. Lagers can be fermented much higher with no temperature control, using appropriate yeast styles such as 34/70 or WHC Einstein. These can be fermented at around 20psi at ambient temps and the pressure will suppress off flavours and aromas from the yeast. With lagers as well you can use the pressure to naturally carbonate your beer.
I just did a mild based on having amazing pint of Rudgate Ruby in Osset. But i was a touch heavy handed with the carafa and pale choc. Still lovely though. Similar experiences! Served it from a pressure barrel. Creamy. So good when a slight mistake still yields a great success. Cheers! (Less hoppy and only ekg so bit different)
Well done Jo it looked a very nice beer indeed and one I would have been proud to have made! Many of my beers have been darker than I wanted but as long as they tasted nice I didn’t care. Really excellent attempt and you should be really well proud of yourself👍👍👍
I tried to brew a Czech dark lager but I didn't know that I shouldn't add the Carafa until late in the mash. (Only my sixth brew).The wort tasted incredibly bitter, O.G. was 1.060. Fermented it anyway and just before bottling yesterday tasted it once again and the bitterness had diminished a great deal. Should be nice in a month or so.
Surprised no coffee choc flavours. Probably killing hop taste. Would expect more Porter profile. I would love this beer being a mild bitter ale drinker. Well done for first ale brewing. Subtlety is key. In my opinion.
Great video and really informative. Personally I'm in favour of the darker colour plus I'm a big fan of Harlequin hops. Will be looking to brew something very similar for late summer BBQ's. Maybe we should rename the style JSB!
Years ago I made a very good, strong lager by adding too much DME to a recipe from David Line's book Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy. A happy accident!
Forget BJCP. BJCP is just the Yanks opinion of what a type of beer should be rather than what it should actually be like. They can't even get to grips with the English language
Great video, like many others you've done that have been a massive help learning AG brewing. I made my first own recipe creation on Friday which also happens to be an ESB. Currently fermenting as I type. It's a 7l stovetop (sous vide) batch and I went for Target and First Gold, Bond yeast and 7 grains in total. All purchased from MM ;) I had a similar issue where my efficiency was higher (first brew using a recirculation pump) and has tipped my BU/GU number just out of style. The IBU figure at 36 seems fine though. Looking forward to tasting it, cheers and keep these videos coming.
I've used Carafa Special 3 to colour by adding it to the top of the grain bill AFTER the mash and then sparging through it and the main grain. This way you get a small bit of colour to the final beer without any 'dark' flavours.
Another great video, I'd been looking at the kegland version of one of these, but this seems a better option, my current process for kegs is to sit them with about 10 litres of chemclean in, leave it for a day or two, shaking occasionaly then running it through a beer line to clean the dip tube and out post, it's not difficult but wastes CO2 and takes time, this looks must faster and easier. I'm sure it wouldn't be difficult to figure out, but do you think this could be used to clean beer lines too with the right connection? Perhaps that could be another video for a simpleton like me :) They've obviously sold well as they're out of stock already! Added to my wishlist!
I'm sure there would be a way to do this, yes. You might need a few additional John Guest fittings or similar but in theory this would work a treat! We've got more coming in either today or tomorrow 😉
Great video guys, Question! Does the keg (even if it’s a 19ltr one) have to be absolutely full of sanitizer to purge out, or can it be just enough for it to clear out of the keg and lines
It depends on how particular you are with purging. The best way would be to fill with sanitiser and then empty with CO2, this way you can guarantee you have all the air removed from the Keg. You can alternatively put in a few litres, shake to cover all surfaces and then purge with CO2 before you use the CO2 to empty the sanitiser
Well, I wasnt going to bother watching this, because although it makes life easier its still more equipment to find space to store away...its never ending lol. I have an old plastic fermenting barrel with the simple lid and your 35L kettle(Not sure if it would fit in those?)
I’ve just got the bucket blaster and I do like yours,looks like it’s got better fittings and I like you can change the height. It’s only a tenner more expensive.The spray ball idea is absolutely fantastic. You guys definitely did a better job of reviewing it than me I did a unboxing and really should have looked at it before hand. Another fantastic vid cheers guys 👍🍻
