I started building my basement woodshop in 2019.... a shop is never really "finished", right guys? I'm continuing to add to and improve my shop as I go along and as I find time. I'm juggling a family with two college students, a full time job, a side hustle in woodworking and home improvement projects, and - since the beginning of 2022 - this RU-vid Channel.
On this channel you can find things like: - Improving my work stations - Building things for customers - Tips / tricks for beginning woodworkers - Tool Reviews
But the thing I'm most excited about, the reason I got into woodworking initially. And, incidentally, something I haven't even started working on yet, is a furniture design that I believe God downloaded into my brain a couple of decades ago. I invite you to watch as I develop His design into something that can be used for His purposes! I covet your prayers toward this end.
Well made perfectionist but for me, a bit of overkill re construction. I couldn’t afford so much time and instead would prefer to play the game. Another aspect I’m not struck on is the weight of such a thick board. Not something to carry around. I am going to explore veneer thickness end grain glued to a ply backing to make my Hnefatafl board, a checkered board 11*11 a Viking game. Yes I found the background music a distraction which doesn’t in my opinion enhance the presentation. Non the less thanks.😊
I got a bigger one from spe tool .. they are AMAZING bits .. i used mine to template route a guitar body and neck in superbly hard Australian woods and it didn't have a single speck of tearout !!! Highly recommended
Uhhh, I realized that you failed to put a starter pin in the plate. You said this bit is scary. Leaving out the starter pin would make it terrifying. If I missed something or I’m kind of dumb, please set me straight, OK. Thanks, I like that thing.
Thanks for showing that bit in operation. I thought they looked hinky and far too dangerous to use, too. If they cut that cleanly, maybe they're worth it. Straight bits aren't so great. Compression bits cost an arm and a leg, too. This raises the question, are these compression? It would seem that a judicious angle on each cutter could make it into a compression bit. Maybe with a little thought, an up, down, or compression. Are there RPM limits, more so than any other bit its size? To get the tape residue off, a heat gun workes really well. I have a Ryobi cordless that works perfectly. It doesn't get so hot that the wood burns but hot enough to release the glue.
I made the suggestion to Find Buy Tool that they angle the cutters so that they shear cut. They said R&D is working on it. This wouldn't be a compression bit because it doesn't cut in both directions. It's a spiral upcut, which I think is the preferred direction of chip ejection because it pulls the workpiece into the table rather than potentially forcing it upward. The recommended RPM for this bit is 16k. My Bosch router is adjustable between 8k - 25k RPM. The doble sided tape I use comes off pretty cleanly (no residue). I just use the putty knife to get it started sometimes. But thanks for the heat gun tip. I'll keep that in mind if I ever have an adhesive issue.
@@BrettsWoodshop A compression bit could have the top row(s) of blades angled down and the bottom row(s) angled up. It's pretty aggressive, so it would take some R&D to make sure it doesn't come loose and end the world as we know it. 16K sounds about normal for this diameter. I guess the geometry doesn't subtract anything. It just looked like you had some residue that you had just a little trouble scraping off. The heat gun trick works on all sorts of labels stuck to everything you buy. Care has to be taken with some soft plastics but it works a lot better than goo-gone, or mineral spirits (same thing).
@@BrettsWoodshop I just use shelf paper or masking tape to mark them bandsaw them to rough shape and use bench sander fine tune to the final shape. To clear the edge I use tour h to heat the edge which makes the edge clearer
I think I would rather secure the job to the bench and use a plunge router. So my hands are safely on the handles and if it kicks back then the plate will pop down and cover the cutter.
@@BrettsWoodshop Something like “crazy effective flush trim bit” … anything that’s not click bait-y. Not only is it click bait-y, but to me it implies there’s something wrong with the bit. Why else would it be illegal?
@@SomeDudeOnline totally agree. I hate clickbait and almost didn't click the video because of it but wanted to see the bit in action. Not really sure what the problem is... it's basically a helical cutter head as a router bit. Makes sense and will last way longer before needing to be sharpened.
Y’all need to lighten up. “How is X even legal” in this context is clearly a more colloquial expression of shock/disbelief. I have this bit, and I gotta say that the first time I turned on my router table with it set to nearly full height, the sound alone really surprised me. This thing is a beast. In a world of “click bait,” this video’s title is about as mild an offender as they come.
Nice build! I’ve watched Tamara’s vid too, so it’s great to see you build this. I’d be using threaded inserts rather than T nuts, so you can sink them in a little 👍
I love the Milwaukee 12v line. These head attachments are awesome. This set plus an impact at a discounted price would be perfect for entering into a 12v line. My only issue is that Bosch doesn't make an electric ratchet or a Dremel in their 12v line
I came here for help with mine. Thanks! I do have a comment, and maybe I’m wrong, but I thought you were not supposed to line the outer face of a bearing with lube so it doesn’t encourage the possibility of the entire bearing turning inside the housing? Perhaps I’m wrong in this instance?
No story really, I was going for “soothing” as I thought that would fit the chess theme. Each song is in a different language. One is Spanish that also includes some Hebrew (worship), another is Portuguese (also worship I believe). The other ones I’m not sure. If you scroll down to the bottom of the description the songs are listed.
Thank you very much. I was stuckwith anti kick bsck and guard protector. Your video clip is very clear and i have completed installung my mastercraft 10 inch table saw
This was grueling to watch. I hope your newer videos are better. I give you credit for doing this tho...we all have to start somewhere right!! Beautiful board.
I hear ya, Brother! I assume you’re talking about the planer… the problem is the hose adapter only fits in one direction and that would be up against the wall the way I have it mounted. So I’ve just resigned to making a mess and cleaning it up after. Dust masks FOR SURE though! 😝
This is what I have. It took awhile to get the hang of putting the blade guard back on. This one is easier than the one on the 20 year old Riobi that I recently trashed.
Great video but I just can’t understand why woodworkers insist on playing music during any videos. I would rather listen to the tools doing the creating and work.
We all have our different styles and preferences I guess. I’m still experimenting and exploring to find my own groove. Thanks for your input. I appreciate it!
The deepest part ofYour gullet is not in the center of your wheel. Using a 3/4 blade with a 1” wheel it’s impossible to do this. Why is this never addressed? Put in the deepest part of the gullet in the center of the wheel makes a lot of sense but it cannot be done with a 3/4 inch or 5/8 inch blade on a 1 inch wheel. Maybe a 3/8 blade would work but that’s it.
While not all of my video footage was taken while the blade was centered, it definitely was centered on the gullet once I had it all adjusted. Your comment made me curious, so I actually measured. The tire is a little less than an inch, but the wheel is 1 and 3/16”. And the gullet to the back of the blade is 11/16”. If you do the math, that comes out to exactly half an inch. It’s almost as if the wheel was built with a 3/4” blade in mind 🧐
@@BrettsWoodshop I’m going out to test this in a couple hours . I have a 5/8 blade on mine and the back of the blade when set to the back edge of the wheel the deepest part of the gullet is nowhere near center of the wheel. Could it be because it’s the factory blade? Different blades have deeper gullets bringing it closer to the center of the wheel?
I really enjoyed your video and your approach to woodworking. I will be on the lookout for the table build video. I am interested, though, in what your sell price is of the chess board. And, by the way, I'd really like to see a video of how you build the phenolic press gadget.
Thanks for the encouraging words! This board was part of that chess table, so the price was for the table which I sold for less than what I should have, being that it was my first time building a table. I’m not comfortable sharing the price publicly, but you could DM me on IG and I’ll tell you privately. I haven’t sold just a chessboard by itself yet, but it would probably be in the thousand dollar range. I’m hoping to get to that veneer press video soon. I have another customer waiting before I can get to that though. Thanks for watching!
