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Candy end up runs the risk of the candy melting and killing the queen, we always recommend candy down. Can i ask why you are recommending candy end up? I would like to know if there is a surefire way to prevent the candy from melting. We are based in Texas and late spring can run into the mid 90's. I have lost dozens of queens to employees making this mistake.
@@bigperk345 our temps in Florida are reaching 105 on the heat index and has nothing to do with the candy melting which doesn’t affect the Queen or at least in our 46 years it hasn’t. What it affects is the workers that are in it that die and block that entrance off. However, we don’t use that method. We use a a 6”x6” queen cage pressed up against the brood frame so she has free rein within her cage to lay eggs for five days and prove herself that shes a layer. 95% acceptance. Make note that the brood frames are at 94°.
I find it better to put the Queen directly in the center of the brood box but it's total preference. 8 years experience at R Weaver Apiaries in Navasota, Tx.
That is NOT TRUE!!! If you dont feed them as much and let them run more they CAN BREED!! I had a 15 lb roo and 2 hens that bred and i was able to incubate eggs.
That is amazing! We are learning the truth of this with broad breasted turkeys as well. We do not pen our birds up except at night, so they can go where they like and get exercise. Definitely helps. Were the eggs you incubated able to hatch? If so, what were those birds like?
Should have let the cheese dry for at _least_ 24hrs, after cutting it, before dipping any in the vinegar. Once each piece has been waxed three times, cooled, then stored, they should be turned on a fortnightly basis to ensure the oils do not amass in one area and are dispersed evenly throughout each block, which prevents bulging that could split the wax.
The theory behind the wet sponge was that it helps the container maintain the correct humidity. We found in the long run that it didn’t make much difference.
I got Delawares in 2021 best breed so far, great egg layers, quick to begin laying, will still produce eggs through winter (reduced). The roosters are chill and the least human aggressive I have ever owned.
We cannot knock their egg laying abilities that’s for sure. We did find the roosters to be a bit aggressive however the ones we did not process for meat grew out of their aggression and are wonderful flock protectors now. We are enjoying them.
You probably could substitute with regular vinegar. The vinegar just helps pull the minerals from the bones, it does not add much of anything to the flavor. Try it!
I know this is from last year, but some of they hybrids are getting better, and even the CX will survive for 5-7 years on a good feed schedule if the base genes are good. I have Freedom Rangers (4 total, 2 have Cornish X genes) that are my egg laying champions, dropping on overage 3 eggs a day. The two Cornish versions, 11 & 13 lbs, are almost a year old and are thriving. Now this is dependent on a feed schedule, as even regular FRs will eat themselves to death if you let them. They get 5 oz (dry weight) per chicken per day of a home mixed 22% mash. That's it. Food is: 2 parts floating catfish food, 1 part whole Black oil sunflower seeds, 1 part Alfalfa Timothy grass pellets - all ground together and fed wet - not soaked or fermented. The yokes are orange with this mix. I have some New Hampshire roos coming so we'll see how breeding goes in about 5-6 months. I don't care about breeding true, I'm trying to create a good heritage hybrid that I can reliably get meat from that also lay prolifically, and I think I've got the hens to do that with.
This is very interesting info regarding the feed. I think it’s great to experiment with crossing different breeds. Who knows, perhaps you’ll find a stellar cross and will start a new breed. Very cool, interested to see how this cross turns out for you.
I was thinking power with the retractable reel and and an adjustable LED spotlight/worklight pole. You can never have enough power or light on the subject.
As a kid in the 60's my mom cut the mold off cheese and fed the non moldy to the family. Mold is very natural since cheese is created by bacteria. Bleu cheese is blue because of mold. Lots of people eat it and live to tell how good it tastes. I wax my cheese and keep it in a plastic box with 8 holes drilled in the top. No moist sponge. Just air and kept in a cool basement. Perhaps your wax was too hot and the shock of coating the cheese caused the cracks. I let my wax get tepid then dip for nice thick layers of wax. I never get cracks. I pack the wax coated cheese sitting on the waxy side of freezer paper and put crumpled paper with the waxy side out between the cheese pieces. It keeps things from sticking together and lets the pieces breathe. I also think that setting the waxed cheese on the freezer paper makes it easier to lift the cheeses from the paper than when I tried using waxpaper. Waxpaper was to fragile and hard to get the wax to let go. If you have trouble pulling the newly waxed cheese off your paper you risk cracking the wax. Then you get mold. I also do several nice thick coats of wax to be sure I have a tough protective covering.
Ah yes Goats! ours do the same thing they always find a way out!!! For our boys, we left a little spot where they can get out, they go out eat around the pasture then go back to there paddock where there shelter is. The girls we keep them in as they seem to wander more. Good luck!
Our conclusion is that we like them better as layers than as meat birds. By the time they’re large enough to be worth processing (22-25 weeks), the roosters get pretty aggressive. Not very feed efficient. The meat is good, there just isn’t a lot of it. However we still have 5 hens and 2 roosters as part of the main flock..the roosters are great at their job of protecting the flock, and the hens are fantastic layers. It’s nice to have the option of a small breeding group if we needed them, they just won’t be our first choice. We are trying some other varieties! Thanks for asking 🙂
READ ME😁 Thanks to all the kindhearted folks concerned about the Cider cat and the snake! The snake is called a garter snake, and is generally harmless. They do not have much for teeth and eat mostly frogs. The snake was NOT caught by the cat, he approached on his own, which is why this was interesting. When he got close enough, Cider reached out to touch him. The snake did not appreciate this, so got “up in his face” to let Cider know how he felt. Even though the snake struck out, Cider cat didn’t even get a scratch, and walked away from the snake moments later (after getting the last word). The snake left, and is likely still alive and hunting frogs as we speak. To all the angry folks mad about letting a cat outside; we appreciate that your heart is in the right place. But Cider doesn’t live his life in a Catio. He already spent part of his life in the pound, then was abandoned by his adopter, but he found his way to his furever home and now has his own bedroom, endless toys, and enjoys time outside on the farm with his people. He receives regular medical care, abundant treats, and all the pets he could possibly want. He keeps the rodent population in check around the farm which is just about the only wildlife he ever bothers! Cider cat says thanks for watching and be safe out there❤
