Bear in mind that all of the 5 Edelbrock intake manifolds I have removed/installed were purchased used or "inherited". 2 of them were pulled off engines at junkyards, the others came on engines in vehicles owned by my Dad or Grandfather. both worked as mechanics at one point on heavy equipment, my Dad as a certified weldor as well. I am neither of those things officially, but have acquired knowledge and experience over the years from reading books and TSMS, talking to those who are mechanics, watching videos, and through a lot of trial and error working on my own stuff because the local wrench-benders. making $50 to $150 an hour dont know how to not FUBAR something on an FSJ. to be fair: most mechanics in shops these days were born after the FSJ Trucks were discontinued by Chrysler. But even in the 199Os, when ChrysIer carried parts for the recently acquired Jeep brand, the mechanics in my area had very little to no experience working on them...but oven routine fixes They managed to screw up. So I began to learn how to do it myself. every fix was a lesson. I'm still learning. I hope my lessons can benefit others who, for some strange reason, like yelling at 45 year old rusted bolts as much as I dont.
UPDATE 2024: I replaced the original (and let's call them "prototype" J20) brackets by Lugnut4x4, with a second set of brackets he sent me after I conversed with him about the clocking issues I was having. The new brackets have more holes (drilled between the original hole locations) to allow for better clocking. It mostly worked! while re-doing those I also replaced my 45-Y0 front rotors with currently available chinese made parts. Surprisingly these didn't rub. so 50/50 QC seems about right for after market parts these days. once installed I had a new problem...I was certain the original Combination Valve Body, which contains 3 valves in it, had defective or undesirable parts ...the Rear Proportioning Valve being chief, the Front Delay Valve being secondary. See my recent Goblin Walk Around videos for more brake info. once that was sorted... I had no scary ice to test the Jeep's braking on since Winter of 23-24 was thankfully mild. Also, the Caliper Piston to Brake Pad Retention Clips you get now days in a 4- pack are at least 50% junk and the tabs evidently self-remove. of the 4 I bought, 3 installed, 2 have done this within a thousand miles. I'm unsure if the mild vibe and "Vrummmm" ing sound I get occasionally on initial brake application is related, or that's another issue. I cant replace many more new clips...I'm all out of 45 year old ones. Maybe it's the 1985 Wagoneer Master Cylinder. Regardless of the odd sound and vibe, the disk brakes work great on pavement and dirt. And nothing leaks. but this occasional vibe has captured my interest. We'll see this Winter if I still have premature rear brake lockup, despite replacing the old Proportioning Valve, and reducing spring pressure in the Front Delay Valve within the Combination Valve Body.
yep. some of it I can honestly take credit for. most of it is engineered into these trucks from the beginning. A smooth belly, stout chassis components, ease of access for changing spark plugs, installing headers, and dropping oil pan, distributor in the front, and I can reach everything under the hood without a step ladder...all this has spoiled me. I hate working on all the 4X4 trucks from the same era built by the Big 3. Ever tried adding headers to a 1970s Ford truck? or Dodge? or Chevy? Lotsa work. Drawbacks are : not as popular so after market parts can be pricier than Chevy parts. also they are usually defective out of the box...or just the wrong part. And due to 4WD being engineered in from the beginning, it is a smaller, more efficient chassis, without 4-inch lift blocks in all the leaf-spring packs...so these ride lower, therefor have Iess lateral body roll when cornering, but sadly get high-centered easier on berms and snow drifts due to less ground clearance. But they easilly fit 32X11 (or 33x12 tires with good stock springs. In the late 1990's I had 305/70 - 16 (33x12) Goodyear MT directionals - Humvee tread, but not size) on centered 16×8 wheels. but the 33s rubbed the outer lugs on the inner lip of the Front Fender Flare with the suspension fully compressed and steering fully locked. Im out of words. I dont blame you if you're like: TL, DR !
UPDATE: Disc Brakes are TOO GOOD! I've discovered the tendency for the rear disc brakes to lock up when hard braking on dry roads and easily locking up on ice and packed snow. This leads to some drama.
Not at the moment. I have found the issue is resolved when the Quadratrac transfer case is locked into "E"drive while on ice. I have new front rotors too, but its a major project to swap rotors onro the hubs, and new studs will be needed as well. Ive had another project dropped in my lap since then and hopefully will have it together and sold by Spring.
@@tinkerjeeppublications9823 At the shops I worked at, whenever doing an axle or brake swap we would always use an adjustable brake proportioning valve. Then dial it in on a slick surface until you get the desired results.
@@ADAMJWAITE And adjustable prop valve is still a possibility at some point, if i have to go that route, Its a crappy fix to a system not designed to run rotors in the rear. But it might be the final solution. I need to actually replace the front rotors so they require less pedal effort to stop. The back half of the truck has been lightened and shortened. So they have even less load than a normal J20. This truck weighs 4,350 with no me in it. A lot of the weight came off the rear when i moved the axle forward and made a 6 foot bed. Having said that, its was constructed by me out of Jeep truck parts. The core is 44 years old, but aside from frame, cab and inner fenders, the rest is all sourced from other Jtrucks. The rear axle had no brakes on it when i sourced it, and runs 3.54:1 gearing . Its a 1979 J20 Dana60. the front axle is a 1977 J10 Dana 44 with J20 8-lug hubs...no idea when the rotors were ever replaced, could be original. And its a Daily Driver. Until I get my second Jeep Truck project drivable, this thing has to stay together and drivable. Some stuff only gets replaced when I have adequate downtime.
@@tinkerjeeppublications9823 An adjustable proportional valve a crappy fix? That's the way professionals do it. That's literally the professional fix and an inexpensive one at that. It's a required component when you upgrade your brakes such as you have. And the beautiful thing about adjustability is when you upgrade the front, you can readjust it. You're going to need to do it even if you fix your front brakes. I don't see what the problem is here. You can fix it as cheap as $20 and an hour of time.
Good deal! Now you can testfire that thing with its natural bore condition. Good luck. I'm still in mid-process for the fire-lapping procedure. Haven't made it to the range lately.
I put some patches inside the bore, soak the patches with Wilson Combat Ultimate Lube II cleaning liquid (gold orange yellow one) for 4-5 hours today, then used the nylon brush to give a couple twisted strokes, and ran dried patches, and that appear to work, and I will say 85% the damn copper foulings are gone, and the bore is kinda rough per people saying on Facebook, but I ran a little oil coating in the bore, so it’s now kinda shiny, but I think I will run another wet patch tomorrow and let it sit for 5-6 hours and see what it gives. And hope I will finally clear that out!
JUNE 15-2020 UPDATE: Chiappa sent back my Rhino 40DS Friday with a comment on the work order: "Firearm inspected by gunsmith No pitting in barrel Tested with American Eagle 158gr JSP" So today I took it to Jon, my local gunsmith and we bore-scoped it. Chiappa's gunsmith failed to note the obvious problem: the bore is severely rough! It has a very poor machined finish and THAT is what appears as pitting. My Gunsmith reports that sadly this is pretty typical of Chiappa products. They are known to have machined surfaces, especially barrel bores, of poor quality. For comparison sake, we bore-scoped my carry gun, a 25-year-old Colt M1991 Commander. The bore is stock. I have never done anything to it but clean it, and run a dental pick down the grooves to remove lead fouling after experimenting with Semi-wadcutters. In comparison to the Chiappa's bore, the Colt's bore looks match grade! Even with the few rough machining marks in the Colt's bore, it is way smoother than the BRAND NEW Chiappa bore. The M1991 was a cheap 1911model sold by Colt in the 1990s. It was a $450 gun when brand new. I had Jon install a custom bushing a couple years ago and after that I shot a 5-round group with four of the holes almost touching at 15 yards, off hand with handloads. Center to center group of four rounds were .875". The flier was the fifth round, opening the group to 2". These were 185gr Hornady JHP bullets pushed by 7grains of Unique, loaded into trimmed, un-crimped, previously fired Federal cases. The M1991 is no $1,800 1911 tack-driver, but an accurate carry gun. I wonder if the $930 Chiappa 40DS will ever be as good. Jon (my gunsmith) went on to say leaving the Chiappa's bore in this rough condition would cause inaccuracy when firing the pistol. The fired bullet will scrape through the rough bore surfaces, depositing uneven copper fouling as it travels down the barrel. We saw it already already had copper fouling from the testfiring mentioned by Chiappa. (Though Chiappa failed to include the target to prove grouping...unlike when Springfield replaced the barrel in the new Stainless 1911 that had rust in the bore.) Further more, Jon remarked, Copper fouling would NOT eventually fill in the bore scratches, making the bore "smooth". So now the solution is either "Fire Lapping" the bore with special abrasive bullets to actually bring the rough machined condition of the bore's surfaces to an acceptable level of finish. Or honing the barrel with a felt bore swab and abrasive powder used for such things. I vote for the method that requires noise and recoil. I will report results. I will not do any further business with Chiappa.
Sigh man we are in the same boat........ dude only depend it for short range home defense since undoubtly this revolver has lower recoil than all other 357 and you can shoot fast with it. Just no more than 10 yards
JUNE 15-2020 UPDATE: Chiappa sent back my Rhino 40DS Friday with a comment on the work order: "Firearm inspected by gunsmith No pitting in barrel Tested with American Eagle 158gr JSP" So today I took it to Jon, my local gunsmith and we bore-scoped it. Chiappa's gunsmith failed to note the obvious problem: the bore is severely rough! It has a very poor machined finish and THAT is what appears as pitting. My Gunsmith reports that sadly this is pretty typical of Chiappa products. They are known to have machined surfaces, especially barrel bores, of poor quality. For comparison sake, we bore-scoped my carry gun, a 25-year-old Colt M1991 Commander. The bore is stock. I have never done anything to it but clean it, and run a dental pick down the grooves to remove lead fouling after experimenting with Semi-wadcutters. In comparison to the Chiappa's bore, the Colt's bore looks match grade! Even with the few rough machining marks in the Colt's bore, it is way smoother than the BRAND NEW Chiappa bore. The M1991 was a cheap 1911model sold by Colt in the 1990s. It was a $450 gun when brand new. I had Jon install a custom bushing a couple years ago and after that I shot a 5-round group with four of the holes almost touching at 15 yards, off hand with handloads. Center to center group of four rounds were .875". The flier was the fifth round, opening the group to 2". These were 185gr Hornady JHP bullets pushed by 7grains of Unique, loaded into trimmed, un-crimped, previously fired Federal cases. The M1991 is no $1,800 1911 tack-driver, but an accurate carry gun. I wonder if the $930 Chiappa 40DS will ever be as good. Jon (my gunsmith) went on to say leaving the Chiappa's bore in this rough condition would cause inaccuracy when firing the pistol. The fired bullet will scrape through the rough bore surfaces, depositing uneven copper fouling as it travels down the barrel. We saw it already already had copper fouling from the testfiring mentioned by Chiappa. (Though Chiappa failed to include the target to prove grouping...unlike when Springfield replaced the barrel in the new Stainless 1911 that had rust in the bore.) Further more, Jon remarked, Copper fouling would NOT eventually fill in the bore scratches, making the bore "smooth". So now the solution is either "Fire Lapping" the bore with special abrasive bullets to actually bring the rough machined condition of the bore's surfaces to an acceptable level of finish. Or honing the barrel with a felt bore swab and abrasive powder used for such things. I vote for the method that requires noise and recoil. I will report results. I will not do any further business with Chiappa.
How many rounds have you fired through yours? Because I haven't fired mine at all. It came this way out of the box. In my 3 decades of shooting, I've never experienced "copper build up" that left pitting in the bore. Of my current firearms, some are several years to several decades old. None of them have any red residue like this in the bore after firing copper jacketed bullets, which is what I use exclusively. And none of them have pitting in the bore after cleaning. I bought a brand new Springfield 1911in the early 2000s. It came with similar "residue" in the bore. I test-fired it at the dealer's range and it printed a huge group at 25 yards. In comparison, I also fired my carry piece, a Commander model Colt M1991, which printed a much smaller group. I notified Springfield that the barrel was rusted junk and they said to send it back. THEY did not offer to pay for the shipping to them which was $75 for 2nd Day Air. Chiappa DID pay for return shipping for the Rhino. Springfield replaced the barrel under warrantee and sent it back to me. I never got a chance to shoot it before having to part with it at a heavy loss.
Tinkerjeep Publications same, and I used wilson combat lube ii cleaner on it, just removed a bit copper, but I sent to gunsmith to clean and oil it, copper still sitting in there. Also i haven’t fired one single shot
I need to post updated vids on this as I have begun the firing and fire-lapping process. At this point it has 98 rounds through it, 50 rds of CCI 158JHP fired at 15 yards. The groups were big and inconsistent. The bore was baddly copper fouled. Then it was cleaned, and a week later a group of 18 special bore-lapping bullets, were fired through it., cleaning between each six shots. Then 30rounds of CCI 158gr JHP were fired. The latter groups remained roughly the same size as the first, spreading out a bit as firing continued. But these were fired at 25 yards. This suggests the groups are getting closer, but no where near what a brand new, $900 revolver should be able to do out of the box. Also, to remove copper-fouling my son and I found it worked best to make a bore-snake out of a plain paper towel (Viva half-sheets work best), twisting it so it's the proper diameter. Then soak the papertowel with Hoppe's Copper Solvent and snake it into the bore, making sure it contacts the entire length of the bore from forcing cone- to muzzle. Then support the pistol in a bore-level position for at least 12 hours, if not 24 hours. We pulled the paper-towel bore-snake out the next day and it was all blue, leaving the bore 95% copper free. The bore remains very rough, though better than it was. Updates to follow.
I would not recommend anyone buying one of these guns without checking the bore condition first. These guns are test-fired in Italy when new, then mine at least was not cleaned before it was shipped. My pistol was built in 2019. I purchased it in March of 2020, mail ordering it from Palmetto State Armory. That was a mistake. In the few months to a year it sat in their Shreveport, LA warehouse the residue from the testfiring and the humid LA air had ample time to corrode the barrel's bore to the state of being unusable. PSA refused to help me with my return, So I will not do business with PSA again. We will see if Chiappa stands behind their products. I hope so. Its really a unique and interesting gun. I hope to actually shoot it. I will post positive (or negative) results when I receive word from Chiappa. Stay tuned.
Oh man mine was manufactured in 2016 and adopted by me two weeks ago at a premium price dammit, and I am bringing it to a gunsmith to do the DA/SA conversion from single action only since I am in California. Hope he could find a way to clear that crap. That’s sad that the gun is screwed
Chiappa texted me on Facebook: it's not actually rust in the barrel. for some reason we've seen the proof house rounds leave deposits in the barrel. it stains the material for some reason. it doesnt hurt anything.
When I say I "cleaned the rust out"...I simply used a bronze bore brush to brush the rust (iron-oxide) off the barrel's bore surfaces. It took 200 strokes. It looks cleaner, but is not mirror polished like a clean, non-pitted, good condition bore looks. Because it is not mirror polished anymore. The rust had eaten into the surface too severely.
You cannot "clean" a rusted bore. Rust is the iron of the barrel reacting with oxygen and dissolving the surface of the barrel, leaving the tiny little dark specks, which are known as pitting. ANY rust in a gun barrel's bore will eat the bearing surface the bullet seals against, causing both poor gas-seal AND more friction as the bullet passes through the barrel. Repeated firing will cause galling of the bullet's external bearing surface, sanding off copper (or lead) from the bullet, leaving it in the pits. This does not "fill in" the pits smoothly, solving the problem. It is not recommended that the firearm be fired if it has rust or pitting in the bore. A new barrel must be installed. Right now the Chiappa shown has been returned to the Ohio Chiappa operation for their evaluation and likely warrantee replacement of the barrel. Time will tell.
I am sorry to hear about your troubles. I am the owner of Lugnut4x4 and we are glad to help with any problems you might have. From what I can find most brake parts are made in China with a few made in Mexico. We are unable to find any suppliers in USA. My guess is that your rotor is not seated flush on your hub. Maybe there's a small flake a rust between them.
Nah. Everything is mounted flush and tight. I've been driving the truck daily since July 2019 and the rotors surge somewhat when I'm braking. They are slightly warped from the factory. But they work. I had this same issue with newly made Chinese brake drums a few years ago. When installed, they warp. I had them turned after not being able to rotate the wheels by hand when setting up the bearings (hub seals and a bearing was shot along with the original drums). The wheel would go half a turn then jam against the brakes...even after backing off the adjuster fully. After OReilly's turned them, it was better but still surged. Sidenote: New bearings were junk too. Races were soft steel. If it's made in China, it is shit. Same for anywhere else except Israel. I know the US makes nothing for old vehicles anymore. So we are stuck with Chinese shit. I just replaced the pads I got with the kit too, since they would squeal loudly when applied. Upon inspecting them after removal the glued on backing shims (?) had warped and moved around on the back of the plate. The pads show no excessive wear, but a lot of rust. That might have been the squealing issue. The new pads are Brake Best and so far, no issues, the backing shims are crimped on, not glued on. Despite the problems with the Chinese parts in the kits, the brake brackets are great! The replacement brackets you sent with the extra holes to re-clock the calipers so they dont hang low or the spring-pack doesnt block access to the upper caliper bolt...those are on the list for swapping, but I can't get to that until next Spring. The refurbed OEM calipers that came with the kit work great! They are the same calipers I have on the stock Jeep front brakes. The wheel studs I used are all new US made parts as well. I want to say Dorman makes them. I love the disk brakes on the truck, changing pads is a 20 minute job. One improvement would be if I could figure out how to retro-fit a parking brake. Pipedream would be retrofitting an ABS system to the truck for stopping on ice.
