Official Channel for Complete Tuning Solutions Videos. Motorsports coverage, how to videos, general shop updates. I'll also post product reviews from time to time. About me: I've been in the motorsports scene since 2001 when I first started tuning vehicles (DSMs). Now I live on a Ranch in Texas and Tune and modify my own and some select client cars from time to time. Here to share knowledge and provide tips/tricks.
Let me know your thoughts. Have you used this tool before? Interested in seeing the comparison to the Amazon style one I have coming? Please note apologies on the audio drop, would it benefitial to correct and re-upload?
Great series with a lot of good information. I watched/listened as I was doing a cut and crimp set of plug wires on a small block Chevy. Having spent a good part of my career working on these and other import vehicles these are sound practices for just about anything held together by nuts and bolts. Keep up the great content.
Funny that I got this video recommended. I also have a red NA Miata, and I also made crib blocks for it. I went with 8 layers of 2x4's, staggered like you did. On top of that I have two layers of 3/4" particle board and 1 layer of 2x12, keyed to the top like you did, and giving me a total height of 14.75". I think I used them when I pulled the trans...You need a lot of height for trans removal when you do the clutch, etc.
Small world! Makes sense for the height if you are dropping the trans out the bottom. I'll keep that in mind and "key" some extensions for that day. Who am I kidding, hopefully I can have quick jacks or a 4 post by then. I do plan on pulling the motor later this year and the trans will go out with it out the top.
@@completetuningsolutionsIf you can afford quick jacks or a 4-post, that's ideal. So many people have told me to pull the motor and trans together. And if you have the room, sure. I have limited ceiling height and limited garage length. I had no problem pulling the trans out the bottom. And when I rebuild the engine in the near future, I'll be dropping the trans and pulling just the engine out the top. Hope yours goes well.
About to add these to my exocet (probably overkill). Noticed you used the standard torque value along with the threadlocker. Loctite recommends reducing the torque seting by 20%. Have you had any issues with disassembly?
I was just following their instructions. Haven't had to disassemble yet, but don't think it'll be an issue. I usually shoot for close to max setting or a smidge under, never over when using loctite. Aware it does give me a mechanical advantage and the possibility to overshoot.
Do they make this for the rear end as well the bump stops in my rear coil springs rusted out want to know b4 I get to work on it with a welder and some 2 inch pipe I already orders these for my front end
Thanks for commenting, sorry on the delayed response. While I don't forsee it being an issue I have a contingency plan. I can easily move the filter inside the engine bay in a rain situation by clamping it on the end of the pipe that terminates right before the turn down into the fender area (why I made a junction there as well on the downturn) and capping the hole. I'll just be sure to pack those things in my spares "in case of rain". I do run the factory undertray so I'd only be concerned in a downpour situation. Great question!
Great video, thanks for posting. I was under the impression that this was supposed to be welded in, but i guess not. I think I would pay a little extra money to have someone weld in a new support rather than this fix, but I will keep both in mind
I know it's probably ok, but where are people getting the information that ATF +4 is compatible with the 44-45? I can't find anything official anywhere. It just seems like a word of mouth thing.
the older manuals for the ds had it speced that way. I saw a photo of it. In think ram has rationalised it now and specifng the special oil for the 44 case in both. I am going to run just ATF 4 plus in mine.
There was a change for 2016+ rams. Many of them got the 44-44 Borg Warner transfer Case and that requires the special sauce. The older 44-45 tcases allow atf4+. There are some 2012-2014 1500 ram owners manuals floating around showing the call for atf4+.
@@codyfisher3706 Really? My dealer said they were using ATF until they could get more MOPAR stuff in. The guy I spoke to said it should be fine. Too late for me I guess if your dealer is right, I went ahead and used the ATF+4. I may change it out whenever I can get my hands on the recommended stuff.
I got the almost the same setup as yours because these videos, I know it is an old video but What kind of line lock are you using? I'm looking at the rsd and cartek right now, my abs isn't working and I'm having problems with the burnouts
Man ur a life saver thank u a million I juss discovered mine doing the same thing and was thinking about getting rid of it but I’ve done so much to the Jeep but do u know if they have some for the back and if so could u put the link in the comments for me anyway thanks again
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO!!!! I'm a big time diy and was about to pay $400 to have this repaired on my jeep. I saw this item before but didn't realize it was a bolt on and I don't own a welder. Thank you man. God bless.
I was doing ball joints on my 02 last year and noticed the sway bar mount was gone completely. Wifes car never run off road but to many years of Cape Cod winters. Luckily I have a welder torch and scape steel. Rebuilt for free she bought a 2018 and I am driving the 02 as a winter beater to save my truck from salt roads.
Alpha OBD is the program you are looking for. Many bluetooth OBD2 scanners should work, the Alpha OBD software gives some recommendations. Works well for any updates needed. www.alfaobd.com/
Many say 600+ it is recommended. The manufacturer recommends it at 350hp actually as the individual caps can shift. This motor made 900 without it however, so your results may vary.
@@completetuningsolutions Thanks for the reply, I figured it'd be around there. I was making 550whp last year and just swapped to a 6766 so I'll have the potential to hit around a thousand. Guess I'll keep it turned down until I have time to pull the motor and toss the girdle in.
@@completetuningsolutions I could see that, it's probably even a better idea for me as I'm running a 2.4 Galant 6 bolt motor which has all individual caps. I'm a fan of kiggly, I have their springs/hla and trigger kit. Not cheap but the quality is outstanding Only thing holding me back from just tossing this in is a line hone. I wouldn't want to risk it with the amount of money I've tossed at this motor
I had a 95 eclipse with the naturally aspirated 2.0... totaled it. Now that I have been on the forums in search for a replacement 2g 4g63t I shorty found out they are bad engines because of crankwalk and do not come with a 6 bolt in any year. They say to stay away from the 95-96. If you can shed light on this subject that would greatly appreciated. Thanks
Thanks for commenting! The 7 bolt 4g63 is a good engine and the crank walk issue has somewhat been blown out of proportion. The key for any engine build is to set the thrust bearing, main bearing, and rod bearings correctly. This requires proper machining and assembly techniques. I went with a 6 bolt motor for this build as it was what was available to me locally at a reasonable cost (this is a 1/2 filled and o-ringed shortblock for drag racing application). In a 2g DSM I would absolutely go with a 4g63T 7 bolt. Much easier to install (as you don't have to do the 6 bolt in a 7 bolt modifications) and at this point in the game the aftermarket has more support versus the 6 bolt (as you can use 4g EVO internal parts most of the time). 95-96 motors are fine. Tips to avoiding crankwalk include: Not to heavy of a clutch. Proper assembly techniques and torque values.
Thanks! It was a really fun car to campaign. Please consider subscribing to get updates on my Stealth project (automatic) where I'll be targeting deep single digit passes.
Most of the tables are around O2 MV rich/lean voltage. This is done AFTER you make sure your airflow modes are accurate representations of airflow mode. Short lesson is that GM uses an Airflow Mode to determine where you are in a range of closed loop airflow. You want to set those tables at your idle parameters. Then you can adjust your rich/lean voltage for those airflow modes to ensure that you are accounting for the lag that happens when you move 02 sensors from a factory location and the overlap you get from a camshaft install.
I'm not following your comment, my apologies. I painted the sheet metal with black Rustoleum and put in these new perches. The rubber in the video are new Moog Spring isolators.
What is a good cam grind more my stock ls1 im wanting more duration/less Lsa and a lower lift with the aggressive idle and chop im old school and like turning heads on a cruise and around towns on a cruise. Cheers Azza New Zealand.
