That pressure relief valve thing is the only thing I managed to remove, would have hope the whole thing would come out but I guess the mallet is gonna have to come in here ..
Hello, my RAV4 XA20 2.0 D4D is having the same problem. When it's hot, it's hard to start or won't start, but if I connect it to a battery jumper, it starts (the battery is new). Could replacing the starter motor with a 2.2 KW one solve the issue? Thank you very much for any help you can give me.
Hola.... Joao I can't guarantee it.......but I would be very surprised if it didn't sort your problem....a Good new or overhauled starter should be fine 2.2kw for choice, looking at Autodoc online parts they are around £120 not sure in Euros. Important you need to count the number of teeth on the starter you have = Order the right one! All the best....Trevor
Hello Ricky.....It worked fine and that was 6 years ago.... there is a part 2 Video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y1WGGH6GfcY.html in fact there are 4 in total with other problems, the splitter is still in use with my Son and splits about 3 tons a year so it hasn't done bad. I'm expecting delivery of a Hyundai Vertical 8 ton unit today... so I guess that will be a review video...Cheers....Trevor
Nice video, helped me out. My log splitter wouldn't retract. My issue from watching your video was the valve tip not broken. It was the piece on the valve after the tip that you showed in the video that moves. Mine was froze. cleaned it up, works like new.
After years of losing sockets when they drop down into the engine, I have developed a personal system of tearing off a bit of gaffer tape and sticking it onto the socket so that it remains safely on the extension … saves a lot of heartache.
Hello Tony.......Done that one a few times....also a bit of tape stuck over the end of a socket helps to keep a nut or a bolt in place while you manoeuvre it into position is another handy one... Cheers...Trevor
Thanks a lot for the quality video with the lots of details! I've just picked up a Bosch sensor (0281004027-BSC), I think thats the original part. I hope it will fit in the plastic bracket at the connector. Going to replace it in the weekend. I kept postponing the replacement. I was getting P2A00 a couple of times during last year, sometimes cruise control turned off, sometimes I got the MIL light on. Usually it dissapeared after deleting the trouble code, maybe cleaning would have sufficed, but thats less fun, than replacing. Hopefully my fuel consuptoin will also get better a bit.
I recently got myself a pair of 7x35. The thing itself is quite beaten, the paint is peeling everywhere, the metalic covers have their fair share of nicks on the edges, they were quite dirty on the outside and there's mold on the inside, it's missing the sling and one of the sling rings and the screws are a little rusty. Also, the rivets on the leather case are all rusty, so it's safe to say that they lived a hard life. Still, they remain perfectly collimated and give a very sharp image.
Hello.... They are tough binoculars... mine live under the seat of my Suzuki truck and before that in my work van, I used to work for a water company in the south west so did spend quite some time near some reservoirs and canals...spotting wildlife when I was supposed to be working!! I did also use them for inspecting communications antennas without having to climb up to them too can do that these day's H&S working at heights and all that...give yours a bit of TLC and I'm sure they will give some more service....All the best....Trev.
@@jetblack11td Yeah, they have improved since I got them, they have a new ring and a sling and put some grease on the rubber eyecups so they don't become chapped. I may also dare to clean the insides, as some lenses have a bit of fungus.
Had the same issue with my Qashqai with 2.0l dci 150bhp. Changed the MAP sensor and jobs a good en! Video has been on youtube for 4 years and you’re still saving the day! Thanks for your help,
Hello mate glad you like the video…… I try to be realistic and not too produced and pretentious…. Have you cleaned your mass airflow sensor? I replaced mine in the end found one on Amazon in a damaged box cheap difference was huge….. cheers……Trevor
Superb 🎉 I’ve just replaced all suction red green valves etc but not got no acceleration although revs great under no load ! I’m sure this deffo problem … love your description etc .. especially dropping stuff !, I do that all the time.. good to see UK video Many thanks ❤
If you push that perforated tube part, it's spring loaded. Maybe that is the pressure relief valve. The bottom part that unscrews is just so you can drain the housing before removing it, if you want to. I hope your video has prompted people contemplating this oil change to equip themselves with the correct tool for a few quid!
Yeah you are right if you are going to keep a motor for a few years and let’s face it that’s why people buy Toyota’s…. It’s a wise investment recently I bought one for my son’s 520d BWM they have a plastic lid on the filter top side of the engine which will unscrew with big water pump pliers but the tool is £7 off eBay…. He’s going to run the car as long as possible….. so worth it….. cheers….Trevor
Hi folks, I’m late to this but I’ve just got a Tento 20x60 and using it for the first time in the back garden the near focus is limited, I obviously need to test in a bigger distance. Out of interest does anyone know what the near focus limit is? Also the focus wheel doesn’t have a lot of movement in it. It’s smooth and has a definite “stopping point” so I don’t think it’s stuck as such. I mention this as I’ve also got a Tento 7x35 (lovely bright clear bin) which has a lot more range of motion in the focus.
Hello You are going to struggle to focus on on things as close as in your garden.... with any high magnification binoculars...it's the nature of them my 10x50 Carl Ziess are the same....Cheers...Trevor
Did this fix the woble problems for you ? also have a qasqai with this issue and replaced both drive axle and it dint fix the problem if i checked the baljoints and strutbearing seam to be oke
@@jetblack11td all cylinders firing white smoke 3k rpm 20 minutes smoke fine once min rpm smoke back again new spark plugs new pcv valve changed engine the same problem
Hello Benedict... Sorry Only just spotted your question we used a rotary emery wheel that goes in an electric drill to clean up the inside of the bearing block.... as the block is alloy you need a gentle touch don't get taking too much metal away.... the other way is to heat it up with a blow lamp the alloy expands and you can press it together in a vice wear gloves don't burn yer paws! we the alloy starts to smoke slightly that's hot enough......Cheers....Trevor
Did you have, or could it be causing, a tic-tic-tic noise when cold and under load (accelerating, uphill etc) ? Both my boots were ripped and I have the typical knocking when turning and accelerating, but I also have cold start ticking that I cannot seem to find the source for. I cannot hear any noise stationary, so I'm figuring if it could be related to the drive shafts.... (I will be replacing the drive shafts on both sides in a near future)
Hi - great series of videos. I have an Al-Ko on which I need to replace the seal/aluminium housing. As I undid the bolts at the lever end, the shaft and spring assembly sprang out as under tension. Any idea how to refit the shaft and spring? I see no easy way to put it back under tension.
Hello Jerry.....hanks for the kind comments, It was a while ago now....I'm pretty sure I had some assistance from a mate...I think we used a strong bit of rope with a loop in one end to pull in together and hold it while the other guy got the nuts started..... the good new is the splitter is still working OK has spilt 3+ tons of Ash for this winter ....Cheers.....Trev
@@jetblack11td ok Trev thanks - I'll try a ratchet and strap - that might work. I don't think it needs massive pressure to get it back in. Good to hear it's still going strong.
@@jetblack11td If anyone else is reading this, the ratchet did not work. I bought 4 m10 threaded bars @ 1m length, These are long enough to screw into the end plate even while the spring is uncompressed. As you tighten the threaded bars (with long m10 nuts and large washers) the plate is brought back to its closed position. At a certain point the gap is close enough that you can screw in the original bars, replacing the threaded bars one at a time. Don't forget to use new gasket compound on the end plate to seal it. Also make sure the bleed screw hole is not blocked - mine was and it had been that way from the factory it seemed.
Having real trouble getting the two bolts in the back on. They dont want to thread on at all. Any suggestions? I have tried moving the knuckle about to get it into place but they just dont want to go in. I have also tried putting the ball joint in first and jacking the arm up but still no luck. Any help appreciated 👍
Thanks for the positive comment.....I try to help....these Wishbones are a right pain with two x-Trails an a Qashqai in the family I've changed a few of them.... the cheaper units from Ebay and Euro-car parts, GSF etc...have not lasted 18 months Now trying ASIN branded ones from AUTODOC at £70 ea see if they last longer....! Cheers....Trevor
Thanks for this. I have a 2008 T31 Xtrail reading: ''P2A00 [0x2A00] Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - circuit range/performance Status: Confirmed'' With MIL Light on dash. I think this is the exact same sensor as you have in this video isn't it? I'm worried as I know there are two. Thanks for the socket drive tip too I'll order one.
Hello mate.....as I understand it..... bank 1 is a 4 cylinder engine (bank1 on V6 & V8's is the bank of cylinder with cylinder No1 in the firing order, the other is bank 2) and Oxygen sensor 1 is the pre cat one........ No2 is the post cat one....but have a look online to double check......All the best...Trevor
I had kinda similar issue with my log splitter.. The log splitter went just fine to one direction, but didn't come back, or in best case it came back extremely slow. And also after the first push the splitter didn't need the lever on the left hand side at all to move - it moved just by pressing the engine button on the right hand side. I fixed this by making sure the spring at the end of the valve was properly in position. It was for some reason loose, and didn't move the valve back up after pushing it down.
Hello....Glad you have sorted it out the valve on these are a bit flimsy..... now is the time of year to get the wood spilt and stacked up for the winter...All the best....Trevor
Hello Mate...... it's a 2 litre Diesel Sorry I can't find/remember the part No..... should be easy enough to find one on ebay I've just looked about £75 all the Best..... Trev
Hello Happyantix (Like the user name!) To be honest I called up our local car parts suppers APD and Titan motor factors and this the one in stock they quoted against the Registration No of the car....As I say in the Video I would stick to OEM brands like Bosch, NTK(NGK), Denso etc... rather than a cheap no brand thing from eBay/elsewere...any reputable on-line supplier like Eurocar parts or GSF should have them.... maybe Autodoc are quoting £66.00 for NGK at time of writing..... another thing a 22 mm crows foot wrench will remove the probe too, you can get a cheap set of them off ebay, which would have other uses in the future....Cheers...Trevor
Pretty Good Video now i know what to do with the white glass clips i will do it on my Ford Fiesta from 2001 but i have the manually regulator.The same thing happend to my i wanted to close the window and the cable snatched back and drestroyed there was so much rust on it.I hope i can do it i fix it tomorrow :D Greetings from germany buddy!
Really glad i came across this video. Our 2010 xtrail had sudden loss of power, limp mode home. sent into local garage who only cleared codes then sent it back to us, no work done just a bill of £42. Guess what happened, yep lite back on. Informed garage, soonest available slot 3wks time! We found this video and ordered a turbo boost valve control arrived in 1 day. it was a simple fit, fitted it, neighbour had a code reader and cleared the code. however lite reappeared almost instantly. smoke test then carried out at home to reveal no leaks from pipes or connections. We then ordered a MAF from AMZ and a code reader, 2 days arrived. read code, replaced maf, cleared code. Very happy to say back on road and performance back to normal. A very big thank you to the video host and the help provided. code reader £27 turbo boost valve control £45 Maf £29 keep rolling every one. 🙂
Hello Paula....I'm very pleased it was helpful....A lot of the problems with modern Diesels are sensors the Lamba probe (oxygen sensor) is another one that goes on these T-31's too ... I tend to drive around with a NEXAS NexLink Bluetooth plug in code reader in my and my wife's car in the glove box, at least you can clear down a code to hopefully get home.... it does take a bit of looking around the internet etc but you can generally sort things out. The one thing I would say is it's always best to go for a good brand of sensor not a cheap no/unknown brand cheapies from ebay etc.. stick to Denso, NGK, Bosch, etc... gthey usually fail in short order... All the best....Trevor
I had trouble getting the ball joint back in. Ended up giving up and calling mechanic! Also found the aftermarket lower control arms didn’t last long before bushing became worn again.
Hello.... Yeah bit easier with 2 pairs of hands....and a big steel bar to push it down.... I'd agree completely about the aftermarket units one pair lasted 18 months so only good for one MOT...!
