Welcome to the channel! Here at BigTallTim we are all about Cars, Guitars, and the occasional Steamy Danger Toy! With a keen interest in encouraging DIY mechanics and a lifetime of tips and tricks to share, there is something here for everyone... Welcome aboard! BTT
i have a bi chorus 200 marshall and after 5 or so minutes of playing it,s volume fades couid this be a vave failure or another part of the amp ? thanks for your video very insightful.
Great question - it will be one of two things… either your tube is faulty, or it will be the bridge rectifier - I’d open with changing out the tube, and if that doesn’t fix it, switch out the BR (they were a known issue with some Marshall amps)
One thing I read (and then did myself) is to keep the bolts from round the door in order. They have to go back in the same place they came out of as some are slightly different sizes.
A great shout! One way to do this is to draw the outline of the door on a piece of card, and push the bolts through one by one as you remove them… that way you know exactly where they came from!
Hi Scott! It is an original mamod safety release valve; I made a new socket for it, but that is an original part straight from eBay… they go for about 12 to 14 pounds
BigTallTim at 2230 you talk about the electrical connections and make sure the side bits are sitting correctly so they snap back onto the injector....if there not correct will this make a bad electrical conection on the contacts between injector and loom or is it just to stop it falling off?
Great question and yes - to stop them falling off!… to explain: if they work loose the fuel delivery to that cylinder is cut off (remember that it is the injector that allows the fuel to squirt in from your high pressure diesel line… no power, no fuel, and you are running on 3 cylinders. A clip is built in so as to be sure that this doesn’t happen!
Thanks man...I ordered LC9Z but I think I'll need C9Z for some reason, because LC9Z is more purpley as I've just found out applying it over a sanded down rust spot on my interior....I wasted so much money :-/
@@bigtalltim i think its not oem paint in the first place. I scoured all my documents and they all say LC9Z not C9Z. C9Z isn't even a VW color. It's a seat color lol.... My painter must have used the wrong color code then told me it's the original. He said something like "it's C9Z, the original color of your car" so when all I found was LC9Z I just assumed he misspoke...big mistake i guess Grrr
Mine is apparently constantly regenning and when driving faster it pushes out constant smoke. Mechanic said its overfilling throwing diesel in the system its a Ford Mondeo 2016 TDCI 2.0
Do you know the error code? That would suggest that either one of the sensors is dodgy and misreporting the pressure differential so it thinks it is always blocked, or your dpf is full of ash… either way, burning off isn’t going to help, but the ECU doesn’t know any better
@ozhoneybadger I suspect that you are backed up with ash… you could do worse than to try a can of the stuff that dissolves it. Certainly with the cost of diesel, you don’t want to be leaving a smoke screen behind you everywhere you go! Ps. Not sure where you are, but in some locations a dpf delete is illegal and an immediate annual inspection fail
Hi - this is hard solder (I believe 4% silver) so low grade silver solder, but is not “normal” solder… basically, it is fine as long as you don’t burn dry and I wouldn’t fancy using it over a more aggressive heating element than the meths burner - like a gas burner for instance. Usually I braze boilers using map gas and hard brazing sticks as you’ll see a few of my vids which is certainly recommended
It’s a great question, but that is something I can’t really tell you - reach out to a local auto parts specialist and they should be able to advise options… worth checking the dealership also… will be more expensive, but will at least give you an idea
Great question - so… yes, this will be the same with the tdi. The esp light probably indicates a bad abs sensor (by far the most likely cause) and will stop calibration from working. the lack of calibration in turn will light up the steering wheel warning light without any noticeable difference in steering response. You need to fix the esp issue, then do this procedure to clear both warning lights. Thanks for watching!
*Is distilled turpentine an oil type or solvent? What kind turpentine is that? *Which type linseed oil is that! Purified or boiled linseed oil?? *Which solvent can be used instead of turpentine?
Hi - this has been a common question. It is a solvent - it is distilled turpentine, and refined linseed oil used by artists to thin oil paint. I do not know of a substitute that will be safe on plastic and importantly, that will dry - it is very important that this dries, or road dust will stick to your bumper which would be a big mess. Just go to an art store and they should be able to sort you out no bother
Too easy! Cheers.edit: I had a crack at this today on my 2006 V50. At 2:00 where you remove the triangular internal cover my car has what looks to be a small speaker. More investigation on my behalf. edit #2: it appears to be part of the door panel and comes off with it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-niqaMLKsF5E.htmlsi=wrqYpclTlutrYje2
yep - I had the same in my 04 S60... just a part of the stereo system - should be held in place with 3 pegs as I recall... watch out - they can get pretty brittle over time!
Cheers - and yes… the only time you need to touch the door card for a window related issue is to change the motor if it has failed. Thanks for watching!
Hi Tim, Thank you for the very helpful and excellent video. I plan to do what you did on my 2006 XC70. The engine you worked on , can you remember is it a 163 or 185 BHP version? Many thanks.
You will need to fix the abs issue - most likely a sensor has failed… as with many of these calibrations, they only work if the system is in a good state of health
Saw your video, changed to a new battery and all the indicators gone! Old battery was last changed on 22 August 2022! Thanks for the video and keep up for good work!
First guess would be fuel starvation. Check that the fuel lines are very well sealed and that the fuel return lines are connected. After that, check the electrical connection is firmly clicked in place - it can’t be much else!
Hi mate is there a way to delete the steering warning light permanently? Doing an engine swap and easier to do a full loom swap, only I can’t use the oem steering rack, I’m fitting a Toyota electric / hydraulic pump for the existing hydraulic rack
Hi - not in so far as I am aware… as it is a basic safety feature, I can’t think of any standard equipment that would achieve that result; a tuning shop may be able to assist, but it is a fairly bad idea on safety grounds so they may not want to assist - steering and brakes are two things that you don’t want to take any chances with!
Great question, and in my case no. The crazy temperature was reported on the data stream in my diagnostic computer; the dash showed approximately the correct temperature.
Fitting the valve, this amp can sound even better. Hot as a Hell metal punching machine. I use mine modded (right footswitch button switches not chorus but Boost/OD2 on both channels) and with Screamer in front.
I believe that the sensor clip can be accessed in the xc90 in the same way as the v70 - check this out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xzyTvZTU9_Y.htmlsi=3paJENEZHVUOXtT8 You definitely do not need to drop the fuel tank!
Used to have the vs100 twin got rid of it for a blackstar all valve job but missed the vs amp. So i managed to find a vs 265 on marketplace a couple of weeks ago bought for £100. Gave it a clean up externaly and everything wotks i didnt realise it had the chorus effect. Its a fantastic amp
They really are - hang on to that thing… they are coming back in popularity so won’t lose value, and they really do sound superb - very much the sound of the 90s!!
I have a Suzuki Swift (2022) the battery went flat, I replaced with a brand new one. The steering fluid icone came up and it wouldn't let me start the car. Then after a few minutes it disappears and I can start the car again normally. What does it mean ?
All cars light the dashboard warning lights for a short time when you turn the ignition on - to let you know that they work! If you keep the ignition on, they don’t go out - until the engine turns on… I think your battery/starting issue was not connected to this light in your dash - I’m not an expert on Suzuki’s but what I will say, is that all makes and models of cars are different and you can’t really compare them… the age is important too - bottom line, issues in a elderly VW will be very different to a fairly young Suzi!
Hola. He cambiado las zapatas nuevas y en la zona de las zapatas en la rueda no hay dorma de poder ajustar mas y desde dentro del coche lo he ajustado al maximo y el freno llega al final del recorrido y no sujeta el coche. Que puede der?
This is where you need to use the pliers and spanner to separate the two halves of the connector just in front of the spreader - 36:01 you really have to force it!
Check for other trouble codes - it is most likely that you have an abs issue, or the fluid level is low… the yellow light does more than just lost callibration
I have a 2013 Tiguan. Live in Florida, so not cold. Purchased it used about 6 months ago, with around 160K miles. In the recent 3-4 weeks, I have experiencing where the power steering does not engage “sometimes” when I START the car. It seems to happen after I drive the car for 20+ minutes, arrive at destination, and turn off the car, where subsequently upon starting the car “shortly” within 1-30 minutes, the power steering goes out/away and eventually the power steering light turns on. I phrased it this way, because the red power steering light does not always immediately turn on when the power steering is out. I have tested the battery with my multimeter and it shows 12.5V with the car off, and 13.9V when idling. So, I guess I can eliminate the alternator as a problem. The fuses have been checked. Because it has been intermittent, it just doesn't seem to indicate a problem with the steering column. No other indicator lights are on. I am looking for an OBD sensor that will work with my VW Tiguan, so no codes yet.
Ok… you’ve got me intrigued! Weird set of symptoms, so I usually open with looking for electrical gremlins… maybe not condensation from cold, but have you driven through any water recently?
@@bigtalltim hi Tim I striped the brakes down today and loosened the adjuster I have also ordered some new shoes hopefully this will fix the hand brake
@damstv8717 if the cable is moving freely in the plastic sleeve, it really is that simple!… just remember to use it, or it will be just the same in a couple of years…
What happens if you get the red steering wheel like I did. From nothing to red wheel. Can't turn the wheel to calibrate and the battery is fine. Getting a DTC_00569 code. What are your thoughts on that. Thanks.
Great question… ok - 2 things. You say your battery is fine, but if it has a cell that is just about ok for now, but on the way out, the load under starting may be enough to tip the balance. Get it professionally tested - that’s the obvious one. On the error code, that relates to steering motor current. The rack itself rarely goes wrong on these cars, so it is probably the harness or “loom” - maybe a bad connector, that is further affected by morning condensation… I’d recommend going through the connectors one by one with some contact cleaner… if I was a betting man, I’d put my cash on it being the battery though
@@bigtalltim Thanks so much for your reply. I did get the battery tested, they said it was ok. I checked what I could re the power assist plug and wires coming in and out of them. I spoke to two mechanics, both of them said it was likely the steering rack, although as you said, these racks seldomly fail. My Mk5 has only done 142,000 k's. I'll ask the mechanics to test connectors and loom before doing the rack and hope that this is the issue. Thanks again for getting back to me. Much appreciated. PS:, The red wheel warning light came on two weeks ago. It was taken to a service centre. They said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They could see the error code in the log, but the problem had seemingly fixed itself. I drove the car for another one and a half weeks with no issues whatsoever. That would suggest that, as you say, it's not the steering rack, and more likely to be electrical? Aside from that and what you have mentioned, is there anything you think I need to say to the mechanic? Thanks again, I just subscribed!
@joshjoshspangler Hi - no worries! A side question: have you driven through any deep water? (Again, this would point towards electrical if so…) Regarding talking to a mechanic about it, just keep to the known issues and hard facts and don’t be offended if the mechanic takes it with a pinch of salt! it is always easier to run with the symptoms and facts and methodically work through the troubleshooting list double checking everything that has been “ruled out” by someone else anyway. That said… The racks *are* pretty much bullet proof, and the job is super easy so if they come in with a quote for more than a couple of hours, they either don’t know VWs or they are being overly cautious - neither of which would fill me with confidence! Tell them you’d prefer a reconditioned rack to save the cost of a brand new unit too - they so rarely go wrong that it’s a pretty safe bet. Good luck!
@@bigtalltim Hello Thank you again! No, I haven't driven through any water and the car is parked in a garage every night so morning condensation is not a problem. Plugs/connectors look clean and dry. Battery has a built in "Good, not so good and replace" gauge which is in the green. Having said that I've put the trickle charger on it just to completely rule out the battery as the problem. Fuse box and connections are corrosion free, dry and tight. I'm going to have to flat bed it into a mechanic so I'll let you know what they find. Thank you so much for your advice and getting back to me. Amazing. :-)
@joshjoshspangler my pleasure! By the way - the thing with batteries is that one cell of the bank of cells that make up the battery (there is usually 6 each of which produces 2.1v at full charge) can be on its way out, but still have enough juice to report that the battery is healthy (over 12v)… the issues come when that same battery is under really heavy load - like when it is turning the starter motor; at that point the voltage can drop to a level that causes electrical gremlins - I’d be really interested to know what they find!
That is the right question! I guess for most applications it wouldn’t matter… but with amplification in the frame, we discover a problem that wasn’t considered by the manufacturer
Hi. I have a VW Sharan 2011. I got a red light for the steering system and after more check I had to replace it. But after 1 week and almost 1500 km, the red light is back. Which could be the problem? I don’t get it.
Hi - red lights are very different… a lot more serious - something has failed. Definitely get that checked - if I had to guess, possibly a fluid leak caused by the job a week ago?
@@bigtalltim I don’t know exactly. Also, just few days before it cracks, we had some very bad weather and the car went a little through water. It were some floods but not so big. Anyway, after that the red light for the steering system came on and in just 30 minutes the flywheel cracked also. So Idk if all these events are related. Anyway, we replaced the steering system, the clutch with the flywheel, we went into a small vacation whete we drove almost 1500 km. Now, it is back the red light for the steering system and I really don t know why.
I would take it back to the place that fixed the clutch and flywheel… many years ago I had a Sharan, and I seem to recall that the hydraulic fluid for the power steering also does the clutch… could well be related
Cheers! I couldn’t find anything else out there that covered the centre console and cable bit, so figured it was worth taking the time; my guess is that most folks doing this job are against the clock for an annual inspection so it never makes the cut! Thanks for watching!
You are very welcome - I didn’t really get it the first time I wired one of these from a diagram either, and I ended up drawing it on paper to work it out - curiosity got the better of me! Really glad it was useful, and thanks for watching!
Best Step by Step Guide for a Successful Repair of my Golf 5 3-Door; a little bit more Time for my job; but it works! Thanks a lot! One Day Delivery by Amazon Germany for the Spare Part (about 40 Euros). Amazing 😊
Hi , I have recently changed my starter motor in which the battery has been disconnected to do so.. Since connecting back up I have amber steering light same as yours, but also my power steering isn’t there, very heavy.. I do have Rear right wheel speed sensor down, Could this really be the reason my steering won’t ‘reset’ and continues to have no power steering and shows light ? Cheers
