A more than good enough video for me to subscribe. No needless talking, unnecessary music, pleas for likes and to subscribe, and just what your testing found. Overall it looks to be fairly well made chuck. I would have loved to go with the 5C collets but wasn't willing to trust to luck for what I'd get with the average and generic brands of collets. And a full set from Hardinge is out of my budget. Instead I bought a set of Bison ER 40's for my BP clone and get dual use on the lathe. Much slower to change sizes or parts and far less capable as far as all the additional options 5C has of course.
Constant Surface Speed (CSS) is mandatory to "securely" partoff hard to machine material on a lathe. I wouldn't risk the integrity of any machine-tool for any other than soft aluminum and composites using your method.
You are quite right about that. However, I don't have a variable speed dial, nor a CNC lathe. As I mentioned, at the higher speeds in 304, there was a nubbin left behind. This is from the tool just bluntly ploughing through and not cutting. There are several solutions: hole in the center, speed up the lathe or use hand feed at a slower rate. I think for most people who do not have an ability to set up constant surface speed, the use of hand feeding into 304 stainless is just as tricky... slow enough to not burn up the tool and yet fast enough to get under the "skin".
You didn't show how to take the chuck off. I recently bought a Chinese BS-0 replica from Vevor, and the chuck is on very tight and difficult to remove, so I would have liked to see some tips for removing it, as apparently other people had great difficulty with taking off the chuck as well.
I have not had any trouble taking the chuck off at all. Could you please clarify what the trouble is? Is the taper getting jammed or is it a problem with the cams? I have found that the cams sometimes need to be adjusted a small amount.
Very nice review. Do you think the set true feature was worth the difference over the economy chucks. I have been looking at this same model. Just subscribed to your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Looks like you got a sweet example - it has the quality of my Bison 5C chuck. From the comments it doesn't look like all of the PM units are this good. In my experience with lots of different Buck and Bison chucks the Adjust-tru/Set-tru centering is best done with the locking screws kind of tight. Yes, the screws fight each other a little, but there is almost no walking out when final tightening is done. Hard to say how tight, but not loose.
Excellent video…I’ve seen so many people bashing the nose trying to split the body, instead of using the screws… I really don’t understand why people use grease in chucks, it just acts like a magnet for dirt and metal chips….a light oil like 3 in one is all that’s needed, There are no high speeds or temperatures that require grease… I’ve never used grease on any drill or lathe chucks in 50 years and never had any issues….it also makes future maintenance so much easier…Grease can harden overtime and actually seize the chuck
Sorry, just saw this. I bought it from Otto Frei in California about 3 years ago. They mostly do jewelry tools. Hope it is still useful to you or perhaps someone else.
Video starts off "Welcome to the Shop". White coat, gloves, that's not a shop, that's a freaking lab, or a surgery center. Although the next time I have surgery, if the surgeon breaks out a collet chuck, I'm out.
If you have to keep adjusting your Y-axis to find the center-top of the bar, your Y-axis is out of alignment. Set your indicator probe to the vertical position and sweep the back or front of the bar until you get your "0" answer. Then reset the probe to horizontal position and sweep again across the top or bottom until you get "0" for all positions again. Your quick setup of the indexer with the rods in the t-slots (as shown in a previous video) is NOT a final setup procedure.
Surface feed rate changes (slows) as the tool goes from outer diamater toward the center. Finish will be affected by this changing of the surface feed rate.
I received my 5C Matthews chuck today. I am not going to take it apart at this time but wondering what oil will you be using in the ball oil port ?. Great idea to check the mounting plate by itself. When I Aline the chuck thinking of using the ID collet seating taper. Again I really enjoyed your well produced video. Thank You BillB
I used some ways oil, since I already have it in one of my pump-style oil cans, but I am pretty sure any oil would do the job. The ID taper is a good way to take out all the variables that come with the collet. I would suggest doing the alignment a little differently. Perhaps make the front mounting screws snug and leave the 4 adjusting screws a little loose. Tap the chuck into alignment gently, rather than using the 4 screws. Then sung up the 4 screws. I expect this method to be a little less faster, and less frustrating.
regardless of how good this chuck is, I'm sorry I ever got one (different brand, but that's not the point), these things have way too much overhang, so they will vibrate because of the overhang regardless of how low the TIR is, also too much weight on the spindle. its mind boggling that bench top size lathe spindles have morse taper rather than 5-C.
What a wonderful review you did on this 5C lathe chuck . Considering the final runout accuracy and the reasonable price point , I would purchase one . Great video
Great question. I've been using 1144 for stuff that does not need welding later. It machines really well and has plenty of strength for hobby use. Ideally, one could use hardenable steels.
Hi, we buy tools so we can use them to improve other tools that we have bought! I do the same thing - great fun and thank you for showing this. I was very interested in seeing the knurling tool in operation.
An observant viewer pointed out that I had not listed all the part numbers: the control unit is the Emax EVOlution NE249, motor is an ENK-410S standard motor, and the hand piece is an IR-310 ring-type quick change.
I have the same knurling tool. The shoulder on the pivot bolt was too short so I made a new bolt. Also, the holes for the pivot bolt were different sizes, and were drilled at an angle. I re-drilled them and made a through bushing. Though still not perfect, it is a usable tool now. You may wish to check these parts on yours.
Probably needed a specific boring tool to clear it fouling on the radius, but great use of a lathe for smaller tasks. Worth having “repair washers” in your stock for additional options - they’re just a huge penny washer with a small hole in the middle.
thanks a lot for this video, which helps to easily set up the optimal debounce circuit . I am using a lot of rotary encoders and have tried all kinds of software solutions. It works well, but sometimes you still have glitches. INTERRUPTS are always tricky and good for a surprise ! This time i will go back to the basics and choose a clean electronic solution. ..... besides its an honour for me to use a SCHMITT trigger - because this is actually my family name. greetings from germany Bernd Schmitt
I'm so glad to have been of help! Ich spreche nur ein wenig Deutsch. But if you reply in German, I will be lost😄. A Schmitt trigger is such a cheap and useful device. LogiSwitch LS10 is an IC specifically for debouncing, and I believe it is quite robust. But it has about 20 ms debounce time, whereas rolling your own lets you adjust it to whatever you want. And the chip may be $2-3 each.
The bar overhang is actually not that great. It is about 3" in diameter and the parting is at close to 5" from the tip of the jaws, so less than 2D. And the reason is simply that I needed a disc of about 3" dia.😀
Thanks for the kind comment. The finish and accuracy one can get even with a manual lathe is pretty amazing. I had originally wanted to get something like a Tormach but got side tracked with the lathe. It has taught me a lot about feeds, speeds and different types of metals. One day soon, I hope to follow along with you and get back to CNC milling. I have an MR-1 on order.
