32 is cold pressure psi on street tires. I only take hot pressure psi when I’m on slicks and the tires are on warmers. That being said Pirelli sc2 slicks hot psi is 26 rear and 34 front. This my preference on some tracks I’m a 200 lb rider. If the track has a grippier surface I will increase rear tire psi to 27 psi to avoid cold tears, or even switch to an an sc3 slick and remain at 26 psi since it’s a harder compound. Your preferences may very. Dr. Speed Lemon.
@dr.speedlemon739 that makes a lot more sense; even the SP v4 suggested hot pressures is 33/30. I wasn't sure of your level of riding. I know more intermdiate to beginner guys prefer higher starting pressures since they don't build as much heat into them.
Why are you confused about a 190$ full exhaust there's hundreds of them on ebay... just a stainless steel headers and a Chinese exhaust... it's nice for the budgets considering most ecu tuner shops have tunes for these cheaper Chinese setups....
I compared these 2 tires because after trying the Q4s by Dunlop I have not been impressed with Dunlops track tires. They take too long to warm up on the street to optimum temperature. The Q3 plus and now the Q5s warm up faster for street use. The sc is a Pirellis track day tire, however they warm up quick and I was impressed with their performance on the street. Of course with better grip and a softer compound they do wear out faster. The sc is also a cheaper tire, and with me price will win out most of the time. I did just purchase some v4 sps. I’ll be sure to do a review of them once I’ve used them.
Thanks for the video bro I appreciate your time and effort and you people if you don’t have any good comments to make don’t make it if you think you’re better than this guy make your own video
Im a 1st time honda owner -Idk if there's a difference but my 07 repsol doesn't take a 14mm takes 13mm & k&n never had an issue with but to each their own. Thanks for the video i love the 4 screws and 2 clips so much easier than my suzukis were in past..lol so far I like the repsol
@@ayowser01 I ride a fireblade & though I’m aware of it having the lowest power output of its class, however I feel silly ever suggesting it’s a “low powered” bike, by any comparison. Even 130hp to the wheel will rip arms from handlebars & face from skulls so I found that remark to be redundant at best & misleading at worst. Not all of us require the 200+hp of the modern Ducati or SC’d h2 & to make a statement based on dyno numbers is quite ridiculous to me, but that’s just my opinion. I wanted to know about the tire, but I also received propaganda concerning “high powered liter bikes” as if that’s a real thing. I just find it funny how we use language to create our own perspective of something that can’t be generalized. I consider my 170hp to be high power, so is he wrong or am I? The real answer is neither, but a novice wouldn’t know the difference & would believe the guy in the video before he gave my comment any merit
@@ayowser01 lmao yea, I’m curious about 200+hp too, but since it’s out of my financial ability, I guess that won’t allow me to consider my 170hp underpowered. This sounds like someone saying their mustang gt is an underpowered sport car because it isn’t a dark horse or the 392 scat is underpowered cause it isn’t a hellcat. At what point do we all ruin our credit & just buy a koenigsegg cause everything else is underpowered?🤣
If you are lucky enough to live real close to fast long canyon rides and don't ride your bike to work, bike night, starbucks and just do canyon rides only. It is far cheaper and better to just run slicks. Do what you have to do to bring them up to temp and enjoy. A set of good take offs will last longer then a set of either of these tires if you only do fast canyon rides.
If this is true, you just described my type of riding. I'm going thru supercorsa/rosso 4 tires every 3k miles. I get a ~2-3/4-5psi gain on the streets with my pace. Are you suggesting that an sc3 slick would last longer? I've only ever ran the SP version of supercorsa.
Not to be a nit picker but you are using that Pitbull stand incorrectly. When using the standard pins on the swingarm, the pins need to be oriented high side up. This prevents scratches to the swingarm and more stability because the red tabs are up and tightly against the swingarm preventing side to side movement better.
Just cut with screw driver to turn them but have to heat it up first to break the locktight on them then use the screw driver once its cooled down it will open as hell thats how did mine
Do you run with tire warmers for the SC3 for canyon rides? If not, how long does it take to warm up? If you do, does it perform right out the warmer or still need a bit of riding? Thanks!
The sp is more of a comparison to the q5s. The sc is a track day biased tire. Sc has tons of grip on the track I've ran through a few of them. I'm kinda a pirelli convert from dunlop these days but I do have q5s on my s1k and they come to temp very quickly and all the traction you would ever want on the street. (Yes I do things on the street I shouldnt) the q5s does wear quickly "relatively" imo to other street biased tires but that's the price of performance.
I just installed a clutch on my 2011 cbr1000rr. And it’s super easy to pull. Like one finger shifting. I’m wondering if I incorrectly I lined up the rod inside the clutch cover with the center clutch pin. Is that possible and still have the clutch operate? I did not have to force the arm to meet the cable as you did. Did I install that part wrong?
Good job,my yamaha R6 dashboard is not coming up except for the green neutral light and I checked all the wires and joints but they are all okay,I checked the fuel pump relay and all fuse and its also good as well
Take a utility knife and cut the sidewall all the way around on both sides. If you stay about an inch from the wheel they cut like butter. The center tread portion will fall off the wheel. Then i use plastic constuction shims you can pick up anywhere tapping the sharper part of the shim between the outside wheel lip and tire bead. I continue adding shims tapping them in behind the last one. Usually the second or third shim breaks the bead loose very easily adding windex as i go. Once broken they literally fall off the rim. I just did a 180/55 and used 8 tie wraps cinched up as i squeezed the beads together with my hand and the tire literally fell on the rim. The 120/70 front took slightly more effort needing to push the tire on but still very easy. I had never cut sidewalls before but i wanted to avoid damaging my vintage unobtainium spun aluminum wheel by not beating, prying or anything that could damage it and it worked perfect. I'd been paying places to change my tires for 50 years and always had damage so i'm really pleased i can change them myself with no special tools going fwd.
I've always thought that cutting the worn out tire would be a sensible thing to do. Your method to break the bead is as simple as it comes. Heck, if need be, once the bead is broken and if you can't get the bead off the rim, a cable cutter (most people won't have this) would cut the bead. Nonetheless I can't cut my tire off as I have tubed tires. I like your thinking though.
You're not destroying the tire if you're buying a new tire you need to have it balanced you would let the dealer do that this is to remove Tire with your tools at home to replace just an inner tube
@EdwinCage-jf3sd why let the dealer do the balancing when it's so easy? Last time I let them change my tire they somehow managed to loosen my 90 degree valve stem and i didn't realize it until I had the wheel back on the bike and tried to check pressure. I check pressure often and it was tight before I dropped it off. Then I found a stick on weight hanging by one corner after the first ride with the new tire. That was it for me and the reason I decided to do them myself going fwd.
Love the video, it wanted to pass along some info regarding the use of extensions and universal joints with torque wrenches. Torque values aren’t affected by extensions or universal joints. The only time they affect torque, is when you’re using an impact, and it’s not because it affects the torque, but it lessens the shock of the hammer hitting in an impact, and that shock is what breaks bolts loose. You can use a torque wrench with an extension or a universal joint, and it is perfectly fine.
I know it’s 3yrs old but damn it’s hard watching amateurs work on such a nice bike. He didn’t even notice the missing hose clamp someone forgot when they installed the silicone hose kit. 🤦🏻♂️ then revving while the cap is off not knowing as it heats up pressure builds and pushes coolant out causing an air pocket. Just stop working on stuff if you don’t know how it works.
Having had my bike stolen, those security bolts wouldn't have done anything at all. They came by at 4 am with a trailer and just took it away. Now I'm replacing the ignition cylinder they broke.
I was looking for this but in particular the other side of the engine.. recently had an accident and the impact was on my left side.. it broke the engine side.. only cover
NEVER EVER remove the back side like he did. One slip of that bar and you will lose your front teeth. Keep the bars as far away from your face as possible.He has the right idea just take some more precautions so you don't knock your teeth out. And use some liquid soap on the bead. But remember the slicker the tools the easier it is to slip out and bust up your face.
The fuel hose, removed at min 4:20, is infact a hydraulic hose. You should take it off by removing the bolt! If you did as in the video you must replace the hose !!! Batter, remove the hose from injector rail. And get out the whole tank with all hoses.
