My adventure with vehicles, from the good to the bad. We will explore everything from part installs to car shows to track days. Come on the adventure with me and enjoy the times.
I would like to know how the coating is holding up on the brake rotors, and calipers, especially in the salt belt area. Are they easy to clean as well?
After the year that I have had everything on, it is doing well, cleaning is a breeze and coating still looks as if I did it yesterday. Now question about the northeast I couldn't really tell you. I do live on the coast so a bit of salty air hasn't damaged it
Thank you for this video. However, I have to ask... Why would you remove the exhaust? I just had to replace the flexplate on ours, and cannot for the life of me figure out why you would remove the exhaust. Anyway, again. Great video, very helpful. Thank you.
To prevent the rubber isolator mounts further back on the exhaust from getting stressed and possibly ripping since they are so old, the engine and transmission assembly have to be tilted so much that it is a possibility since there is no flex joint in the piping
I also put some dielectric grease on the contact points of the tab and the brass plate to keep the wear down when moving the spark advance/retard lever
DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS VIDEO! pull the coolant res, pull the ps pump with a deep socket, leave the sway bar intact just take the 4 bolts that hold the bushings in. Instead of that mess with the lines, take the bolt out that holds the ac line bracket under the alt. You can slide the alt out without ever even jacking the vehicle up!
I have an 03 V8 4Runner. You have just convinced this old fart gearhead to take mine into my favorite repair shop when this time comes. I have an aftermarket skid plate that takes longer to drop and reinstall when doing oil changes!
Will be putting a roof for that reason and to keep the sun off of us. Hoping to see yall as well and i really want to come out and visit and hang with y'all. Life has been very busy with work and now a new addition to the family. I recorded this video late last year and just finally got it put out if that shows my time frame any haha.
Cooling is what retires a majority of cars. You have to run no coolant just water. Pressure test your coolant system up to 30psi and put a higher pressure rad cap on it. If you don't make your roof bolt on and cover the drivers compartment you will have to run arm restraints, this is a giant PITA. Recommended to bolt a metal roof to the top of the cage. You will likely want to figure out a way to move the steering wheel closer to the driver, when you put in the racing seat then get strapped in the stock location in most cars puts it too far away from the driver. Big rear view mirror is a big plus. It gets intimidating in a slow car with HANS and poor mirrors. Class A cars are flying. Good luck, You will be racing us in class C in Nov. Shoot me a message if you want to toss questions at someone with some experience or want to come up to Alvin and check out our car/shoot the shit. We are working on the Lemons car or some other project almost every Saturday.
@@vudu_dailywym by lockup?just picked up an accord and the trans has no oil pressure going to the radiador and won't shift and the o ring is messed up(worn) could that be my problem?algo the inside of the torque converter turns both way if u play with it
@JomalRae most converters in cars now a days have what they call a lock up where it activates to lower engine rpm while cruising. Bring could be a cause of that but it sounds like there could Ould be more of an issue.
I was able to just pull it off by hand since it's splined and not press fitted. If yours is really stuck, then yes, just pry it off carefully once the retaining nut is off
Thanks for the great video! It helped me do this job on my son’s car today. One thing I learned while doing this to make things a little easier…No need to jack up the vehicle, remove the passenger front wheel, or the sway bar link. Simply remove both sway bar to body mounts and the sway bar will lower down enough to get the alternator to slip out pretty easily.
Can you clarify how you slide the new torque converter onto the transmission? I thought you had to slide it on, then turn it a bit, then slide it on further? Also, any maintenance you would recommend on the transmission while you have it out? Thank you for posting this video, greatly appreciated.
I will have to disagree. Single lip seals like the ones installed made by Fel-pro are designed to be installed with the sealing lip facing the area to be sealed (crankcase). Also, to have the retaining spring that is around the sealing lip be exposed to the elements and not an oil bath is detrimental to the integrity of the spring (rust). Also, having the lip facing outwards could potentially allow crankcase pressure to escape instead of pressing harder on the sealing lip, creating a better seal. This seems to be a highly debated topic, but just going off of how single lips seals are designed to be used and installed, the orientation in the video would be correct.
I need help with my 2006 Honda elements automatic transmission, First symptom when it started was when I entered the highway accelerating normal and when it after 2nd gear was about to shift up it wouldn’t go into 3rd gear for over 10 seconds no matter how much I was gasing it and then I shifted it to neutral back to drive and went back to normal. Now it happened again this time leaving my neighborhood at low speeds and now 2nd and 3rd gear wouldn’t go into gear and just rev up. Now finally I was on the highway and when traffic started I slowed down and now it wouldn’t go into 1st gear and had to pull over and after 15minutes I tried again and would drive but it was barely going into gear and not shifting properly anymore, at the end when I last parked it would barely reverse now as well. Seems like it’s slipping every gear now especially after it warms up. I haven’t tried flushing the fluid yet or anything just have it parked so that I don’t mess it up fixing it wrong. If anybody can narrow down what’s going on I will fix it next week with my paycheck just don’t want to replace my transmission because it has always been good to me and still feels like it can be saved. Please and thank you for taking the time to read my problem
Cooling is the most important. Bigger rad is good. You can also get some more cooling out of the system by rerouting the heater core loop to another cooler in the front. Hit me up if you got any questions about tech or anything. We are in Alvin and have been racing lemons about 5 years now in a absolutely silly car. 79 bmw e21 320i, Mercedes om617 turbo diesel, Nissan 350z trans, 89 thunderbird 8.8 rear end, all kinds of junk. Total class C car.
Build a car!!! We race MSR Lemons every year. Been running for 5 years now, with a diesel swapped BMW. We are also only about 20 min from the track. Hit me up if you need any help or peer pressure to build a car. Cooling is the most important part.
That is so awesome! I have purchased a 1991 Mercury Capri recently on another one of my videos for just that! I'm on the south side of Angleton, so I am very close as well! Love to talk to yall and pick your brains!
We are loading up for the NOLA Race tomorrow. You are welcome to come by some Saturday after we get back. I am always trying to convince people to build lemons cars. @@vudu_daily
Should only snug the screws to hold the points in position. If you snug them down, then the points should not move on the plate when you do a final tightening and the cam position will not matter, check for proper gap after you tighten.
I've taken that exact timing belt cover off on my LX470 to replace the cam shaft sensor. It's easy as hell, so I don't know what you're talking about saying that it goes into the camshaft gear. It doesnt.
Think you might be mistaken. I did not say that the timing belt cover goes behind the camshaft sproket. The smaller aluminum piece that is directly in between the valve cover and the timing belt cover; that also encompasses the helical gears for the intake to exhaust camshaft and the variable valve timing solenoid goes into has a portion that goes behind the camshaft sproket.
Watched your video earlier today to see how to replace one of these. Lo and behold, my outlet had pretty much the identical failure as the one in your video had (except the gasket was more mangled up from being squished by the yet to fully break plastic). And boy, the hose clamps on my car were a major pain in my ass to get off. The big hose's clamp did not want to cooperate at all and took the majority of time trying to get the darn thing off. Had to mangle it apart to get the hose off.
Hate to be a Debbie downer but the VW should definitely be a daily driver. A 2015 VW with FWD and an automatic transmission is going to blow up real soon in endurance racing..
Is 2005 CRV getting too expensive to keep it going, few more parts (especially in australia) & cost more than the car worth ?! Mine is 2003 just thinking to ditch it.
I got mine from O'Reilly Auto Parts. You do need to get the o-ring for the torque converter hub separately though, part number from Honda is 91302-P7A-003. Also been going two months since the actual replacement of the torque converter and going strong.
@captaininsano2777 everywhere I look it shows to be the same for AWD and 2WD. Best bet might be to call a dealer give them your VIN and get a part number to be interchanged interchanged. Or get the transmission code and search for a part number by transmission code
Did your new torque converter have fluid in it when trying to spin torque converter? My stator will turn only one direction when filled with fluid but will spin in both direction when empty but with more resistance in one..
The new one was bone dry right out of the box when tested. In my experience, the stator itself should only spin in one direction with or without fluid.
