Hey man hoping you see this comment. On your first videos where you did the hijet when you painted the frame with the chassis saver product how did that hold up? Considering doing that same process to my kei truck as well so I was hoping you could say how that product withstood the elements? Thx for any reply.
Hey man. Dont know if you will see this comment but I am currently preparing to do paint on the interior of my Hijet and I was wondering how you managed to take the whole dash off. I have gotten to the point where the only things left are the air controls, the gauge cluster and the steering column which are blocking the dash being able to be removed. I'm kinda stuck on how to actually remove them so im wondering if I could chat with you on how to actually remove these things as you are seemingly the only example of this being done to a hijet on the internet lol.
No idea why, but at full volume on my laptop you were almost inaudible. I've never had the same problem on any other RU-vid video. I gave up trying to hear, got tired of watching the CC box, and clicked out.
Lol just checked out your store . Awesome selection . Might buy the coil connector rebuild kit . Mine all broke but it hasn't given me any problems yet with misfires .
Gloomy, overcast... New England? I am looking at Sambars but I cant get a straight answer if they're legal in my state [VT]. Don;t even know if I can fit in one either! LOL
No heat gun? Set it out on a hot sunny day on some pavement, it'll soften right up. I wish I could find an old janky KEI truck like this to play with. They are getting stupid prices for them post COVID.
I ordered a Subaru Sambar 1998 from Japan which will arrive in August. I am so excited I can’t wait. I love what you have done with yours. I just subscribed to you. Thanks for posting this.
Yeah, I realize this isn’t necessarily related to the theme of your video. But, I was just wondering, with all the work you did, if you knew which wires under the dash were for the turn signals. Finding a wiring schematic for the Hijet has been impossible for me so far.
By the way I had a pro install mine and he did use the extension kit for my 8’ door. However, being an engineer I noticed on the 7’ door the whole track is not being used. How far would the 8’ door open without doing anything? Is it possible that it would open a 7’6” door fully without doing anything? When you increase the header, do you need to do anything to the track, etc.? Is there a reason you need to open the door fully? When I had my tract home built 20 years ago, this was a reasonable option (3 car garage, both doors were about $300 extra), so I opted for this. The only time this is used is when you have a larger/higher truck, or when you put on a car top carrier for storage for a vacation. You can open this carrier in the garage, fill it and close it and then can safely ride out in the morning. This works with the carrier we have. This was on a 2012 Honda Odyssey. PS: I actually bought the same door opener for a rental condo I own and noticed the extra track length. I ran into a different problem, the door opener was too long, I ran into a You Tube video showing how to decrease the length. I did a different workaround, I had an “I” beam in the way. The “I” beam was covered by a drywall box, which I cut into and recessed the opener into the box and that worked. The opener was 2” too long, but when done there was still 3” to the beam.
That's the funny thing, the tracks are long enough for an 8' door but the factory stops on the opener bars are the limiting factor. So no, I didn't have to do anything to the tracks. And yea the only reason I tried to maximize the opening height is because I had a ladder rack on top of my truck at the time. As far as how high it would open without modification, you would have to install it to a point where you can test or measure where the lift arm rests closed up to the stopper at the full open position. Theoretically it would open the distance between the physical stops if you can install it in a way to take advantage of the full travel. Too many variables to say with certainty.
I have been meaning to repair my 3d printer so I can offer these clips to everyone asking. I'm working on it, keep an eye out, I will post a vid/short when I get to making them.
Trying to figure out where to run the speaker cables through to the car. I see the grommets, but can’t find them inside the hijet. Any help with finding them once passed through?
Not noticably. Maybe throttle response as it is much less restrictive. Mostly just makes your ears happy when you can hear induction noises. Alost losing a few pounds of intake tubing didn't hurt.
I used two different white automotive touch up cans in alternating coats to get a closer color match. I think they were arctic white and stone white. 30 years of sun fade is not easy to match.
Hijets have a funky bolt pattern of 4x110, here in the states you will mostly find ATV/UTV wheels with that pattern. My wheels are 4x108 and I'm using misalignment lug nuts which allow for 1mm play in either direction giving me 110mm. Definitely not ideal, but with the right hub centric ring I don't have any problems with vibration even on the highway. Might be easier to get adapters made and just use wheels with more positive offset.
Did you install the final bead dry? Lube the duck bill too. There are plastic drop center devices that hold the bead opposite the duck bill down and make install easier also. What is your plan on balancing the tires afterwards?
I've seen those clamps, I need to get one. I used the Harbor Freight balancer to get them close, which for my application was enough, they're going on a kei truck that does 60 mph max. No vibrations at that speed so far.
The clamps do help. I use 2 for removal and 1 for installing Good luck with the HF balancer. A good test after initial balance is to lift the wheel , turn it 90° and put it back on the balancer. If it's still balanced, you are good to go. @@GreeceMonkeyz
It's the 125cc motor that was in the dirtbike I chopped up. It's a 4 speed too, so I don't know what those gear ratios are but the sprockets were a 12 and 60 tooth I think. I since changed up the sprockets on the jack-shaft to get more top end since torque doesn't matter much with sleeves on the tires.
@@GreeceMonkeyz cool, my drift trike has a 110cc 4 speed and I had a 13 tooth front and 38 back sprocket, top speed was about 30mph now I have 19 tooth front sprocket and 25 tooth back sprocket and the top speed it around 60mph and in the first gear it got sill plenty of torque. Whats the new gear ratio you're using and what's your top speed?
@simongarcia2763 I'm really not sure what the top speed is, probably too fast for comfort. It doesn't really stop all that well as I'm sure you know. I went with a 9 tooth on the drive side of the jack shaft and the 14 on the other end. Too lazy to math out the final ratio. Probably won't move without the sleeves on it 😅
@randomuser23277 heh. I don't know if its oem, I got it on the truck like that from Japan, didn't check if it had a subaru part number on it and I've since sold it.
What did you do about those two pipes before the cat and what about the cat? I have the same Hijet exhaust has holes rusted through trying to figure out what to do.
I no longer have any of the stock piping, those holes are air pre-heaters to help warm the engine up faster, they don't enter the exhaust stream, just go around it. Sorry for the late reply!
