Thanks, 4 yrs later 😂.. VE 2006 SS seat wobbling side to side....pulling it out to inspect, floor bolts tight, must be up in the seat housing. I believe unhooking battery and waiting a certain time deactivates the airbag system in the cp so you don't need to recalirate at a holden service centre.
Even VE SS have same problem? That sucks! I just disconnect battery as a precaution. Wouldnt want anything to happen when re-plugging the seat. I have been thinking about having another look at the bloody thing. Mine still does the same thing. Been like that for 5 years now and most likely for the previous owner 🙄
curious how those front strut mount/bushings held up after driving for a while? look like they would be a headache to keep snug. And how do you have a full tank of gas, but a 1/4 tank of petrol????
Hey mate! Yeah was a little worrisome when I fitted them but I got a neighbor to help and did them up pretty tight. So far they haven't come loose and its been over 4 years. Not sure what you're asking about the fuels. I have 2 different tanks. One for petrol and one for gas so it's pretty simple that I have 2 different levels. Thanks for watching 😎
Hate coolant and belt/pulley drama i have a gremlin that looks (not 100% sure) like coolant might be seeping out of the drivers side water pump boltsx3 and dribbling down onto the top ac idler makeing it squeal when cold and just a little noise after its warmed up any help would be awesome 👌 cheers
sorry mate but get that nulon out of there i learnt the had way did same as you water pump and radiator 14 months later nulon coming out of the pump and radiator all the hose joints over flow resivoir no buddy use something other than nulon trust me the radiator guy and a mechanic learnt the hard way too.
you got the rovan buggy. the difference between rovan and KM is that km parts are thicker and fit tighter together. ive had my KM 5b for 8 years now. i went all aluminum a little at a time.
Do you mind a few questions? I have same vehicle i bought off guy never really wrenchedon it and tore it down. What diff fluid do you reccomend and shock fluid. It has all king motors aluminum so its a heavy beast, thank in advance
Diff fluid ive never changed from stock. Never found a need to. Shock fluid you can go a little heavier then stock or you could get some higher rated springs. You could also start with compressing the springs a little and changing its lower mounting points. If you can get your hands on a set of HPI shocks that be the way to go. They are so smooth. Hope it helps. If it doesn't ask some more 😎
@CR-uz4tg no worries at all. I would also suggest joining some groups. Plenty on Facebook. A lot of guys know way more then me and if you skip past the dickheads they are helpful.
you'd have to pull it apart. might be damaged teeth or maybe dirt got inside. something might be bent out of shape. bearing might be on its way out. Lots of possibilities!!!
Hi Mate, I have SV6 series 2 wagon 2017 model, the series 2 was a better car! I still have it, I need a wagon and its the biggest wagon still around the Euro cars are good but to small. Love the Video make another one if you can. Cheers mate
nah sorry mate. I dont think i got anything left from this setup. i can only assume it was around the same size or slightly bigger then the velocity stack.
If you have the money go Losi. If not get the rovan and slowly build it better. In the past the rovan servos weren't really good and the diffs not as durable. I have to say the losi suspension is the best.
Thanks for another great video. Love all your commodore vids, remember watching the VZ ones years ago. They all show great info for owners to figure all this stuff out, with some trial, error then success (the steam pipe info is so valuable!). Thank you for taking us along for the ride and being really detailed in documenting your work for us. Really appreciated.
Wow thanks for your kind words. Any tradie is so expensive now that I need to save money somehwere. And I hope others try to do the same. And your car doesn't get damaged by people who don't care as much as you do.
Ill also sell u my secret milion dollar patent for free here: u can remove any slop from rod ends and other suspension components with simply thread , never buy rod ends again,. around 10min job for one rod
Damn girl thats fun project u got goin on i love seeing some custom work on rcs. I find you u by ur losi 5ive axle boots video, u still got that car i was just thinking about putting those rubber boots on center driveshafts wheee theres most wear u think its worth it? Mostly front brake one need lubricant due to big angle, other are fine and im not gonna bother with wheel shafts rubber wont last there anyway due to debris and shit, cheers
rubber boots on center drive shafts couldn't get them to work out. but the ones on the steering and rear drive shafts are good. yeah still got it. got 2 of them actually. one that i converted to baja 2wd drive.
Hi, how many liters of new coolant did it end up taking, should it have been at least two bottles. How long did it take to fully bleed the coolant, ( minutes ) ? Thanks.
Hey mate,there is alot of water still in the block and heater cores when changing coolant,it is best to put in a 5 litre penrite concentrated bottle first that makes 10 litres for the vf v8 at correct mix.you would be undiluted using the premix if you dont get all the old water out and you dont want to mix old coolants with the new coolant .I think it best to take it to radiator shop that can flush and air pressurise old coolant out.Give them the cooant you want use so you can top up in the future
@@me8u73 looking at getting a set for an sc since the truck had taller tires than the buggy. Also the place I’m going to run it isn’t really that rock free
My 30 degree North Roller stripped the ring gear after just running 15 minutes in dirt. It didn't have a shim in the pinion gear. That was their installation. I install a new set of gear with the shim,and its kind of thigh, but loosing up. Now I ordered the Losi housing thinking that's the issue. But your video address my problem.
haha!!! didnt even know much about it when i bought it. It was part of a huge lot purchase a while back. I kept it for a while but just recently sold it. It was a good car 😎
@@me8u73 what did you think of it with just the front shaft out? I was thinking of putting a vertigo diff locker on mine and just removing the front shafts
@@chickenamburgsrc I have done that in the past but the gearing just isnt right. They have short course gears in turn being all down low and no real top speed. You could change gearing but harder to get.
I'm really hoping boiling water with fix my car in the morning 😅 have the same problem, Did you have to replace the thermostat? Or did it work again once the air came out???
I changed and tried everything for my situation and was still the same. It would still spike in temp. Until I found a video on how to bleed an LS properly. Which is from the top hose on engine and wait for water to come out of stem pipes. Little alloy pipes that run along top of engine. Well with mine no water was coming out. The stem pipes at the front of engine were fully blocked up with rust and crap!!! I cleaned those out and I never had any problems with overheating again. Good luck 😎
Yeah don't think I had a tripod then. Make sure seat is in middle position from forwards to backwards. Lift up back of seat then it should unhook the front. Then manometer seat best you can without scratching anything.
@deonfreeman651 no worries. Had this thing quite a while back now but from what I remember it was fairly quick but not really that fast. Still good fun though 🙂
Part of life unfortunately. When I was early 20's I never wore hearing protection at work. Always the loudest cars and music going for years. Now ears have had enough 🤣 I do miss my noise!
@@me8u73 boss I generally relate i barely hit my early 20’s and can already tell i should have worn more protection in life, but oh well part of life indeed. I posted a clip of my caprice just now in America it’s got some good noises 🌽 Do you still have the SSV?
I had same problem, then realised that that not only could the plastic part horizontal but also vertical, giving enough space for the spring to squeeze in between, I made a shim that goes between the washer and plastic,
Brilliant. You're the only one that I've seen that mentions "a washer on the right & NON on the left for the caster bar." (For Australia etc.) Cheers well done! Front large nut 148Nm 4 x small nuts 23Nm Nut at other end of rod ( on control arm ) 103Nm If it's got knocks etc. Replace the stabilizer supports, strut mounts & their bearings & bump stops. The struts themselves are mostly gone as well. ( New shocks in the rear are easy to replace.) Before one gets to 100,00km it's most likely the shocks and struts are better off to be replaced. NEVER FORGET to look at the centre drive shaft bearing for torn rubber mounting if it's a clunk when going over speed bumps ( and the 2 rubber couplings, ) especially the front one on the shaft held on with 6 bolts.
if you mix parts with either HPI, KM or Rovan you WILL cross a line where those parts are just off by a smidge. either you buy parts from KM, Rovan or HPI. Mix n match doesnt work because the tolerances are all different for each vendor/supplier.
