Hi, my name is Martin and I am welcoming you to our channel. We are a family business (we provide Authorized Service for Electrolux Brand (AEG, Electrolux, Zanussi) and B/S/H/ (Bosch, Siemens) appliances) and have our own e-shop (proex.sk/).
I post videos on repairs & replacement of parts, new products comparisons, product reviews and more…
If you need help with something (advice to repair or check compatibility), feel free to contact me: martin@proex.sk
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Thank you & enjoy my videos (feel free to express yourself in the comments).
2:56 Power button cable has a connector which does come off from PCB just by pushing with a screwdriver. And then you can see and get access to the plastic latch which holds the power button.
Replaced the power switch, but problem was not solved. My problem is that it sometimes start, and sometimes not. No problem with control panel. Power cable problem?
@@proexservis when it's on, it's working just fine. If I remove the plug from the wall outlet and plug it in again it's not working (mostly). Can't see any physical damages on the powercord or signs of wearness. Tried to wiggle the cord near the plug too to see if it turns on when I press the power switch (in each new position) but it's not working either.
It can be a capacitor issue: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZeJpesy1MMs.htmlsi=telEqgMFgcpoapBp …but best way is to find that issue when it is not working and then disassemble it (still in-plug, so carefully, dont touch electric parts with bare hands 👌) and measure contacts of cord winder (240V), pcb connectors and motor to find out where electricity stops.
@@proexservis that might actually be what's causing the problem. If I let it sit connected to a socket, and unplug and plug it in again after a while, it sometimes start again. As long as I leave it plugged in, it will start again.
Hello. Purchased part 1181968031 (micro switch fixed on small circuit board), plugged it in but the vacuum cleaner does not start. Nothing happens. Checked the voltage at both ends of the micro switch as in your video and it comes up with approx. 6 (six) volts AC. Checked the voltage arrival, via the 2 blue wires, at the larger (mother ?) circuit board and I have approx. 240V. That's OK. So, the 240V voltage arrives at the larger circuit board but for an unknown reason, it doesn't seem to arrive at the little micro switch board. Do you have any suggestions to further explore and solve this problem ? Thank you for the feedback.
Hello, 240V voltage doesnt go to micro switch, you can measure connectivity of micro switch directly on those 2 contacts when it is pushed. So contact goes throught. In case you replaced this micro switch, and it is connected when you push it, then you have probably bad main board (if you checked motor already, you can measure black connector - 2 cables of motor, connectivity (resistance) should be around 3 - 10 ohms, depends on model). In some cases there is bad capacitor/s, like here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZeJpesy1MMs.htmlsi=FgNaEFt3FlPafz2m Or this (but usually vacuum cleaner starts and stops after few seconds): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QvjHIGbr4fE.htmlsi=HLdeG4JxfTK3k-Cx
@@proexservis Hello. Thank you for your swift reply. A purchased a whole new board with micro switch and when I push the micro switch button, and keep it pushed in, then I have continuity (closed contact). As soon as I release or lift the finger pressure on the same little black button of the micro switch, the continuity stops (open contact). Is that normal ? I thought the micro switch was a normally open switch which, pushed upon once, mechanically closes the contact and remains closed (and lets the current pass) and which, pushed upon a second time, opens the contact mechanically and prevents the current from passing through. In my case, I need to keep the button pushed in/pressed in order to have electrical continuity. In other words, the contact remains closed as long as I keep the pressure on the button which I never do when using the vacuum cleaner in normal conditions to clean around the house (I normally apply one short button pressure to start the vacuum engine, and another short pressure to stop the same engine; I never keep the pressure permanently on the plastic movable vacuum tab). I also disassembled the main board and I have the following numerical reference on the backside : 11819704019473. I have looked it up on the Electrolux website here down in France, and when asked to mention my PNC number, which is 90094037000, Electrolux France comes up with a different board reference number 1181970409 (which is not exactly the same numerical reference as the aforementioned one). FYI, my vacuum cleaner is a EUS8GREEN model. Could you please tell me wether the 1181970409 main board (available from the France Electrolux website, will fit my EUS8GREEN vacuum cleaner or not ? Finally, if after substituting the main board, the vacuum cleaner would still not work, what would you suggest to do in chronological order to try and identify and solve the problem ? Thank you again for your feedback.
Yes, micro switch works this way, it send signal to pcb, everytime you press it, so holding it pressed doesnt change anything, every “click” turn it on or off. It is same board, last 5 numbers are for internal use of producer, so 118197040 is correct number of your board. (Old number was 1181970300) Yes, it will be correct board. If you cant measure voltage at the black cables (to the motor) after pressing micro switch then it is problem of pcb (main board), of course you can measure resistance of motor before ordering pcb (as i mentioned before, good motor should have 3-10 ohms).
@@proexservis Hello. I measured the resistance at the 2 wires connector to the motor and I found 10,5 ohms (ten point five). So I guess this is within the normal resistance range of the motor and means the motor is OK. I have also measured the AC voltage at the 2 black wires connector (the 2 black wires are directly welded to the pcb/main board). First voltage measure is approx. 14V (forteen) and when I press the micro switch black button again, I get approx. 27V (twenty seven). I guess this is not OK since I should have 240V arriving at the motor. This would mean that the pcb/main board is faulty and should be replaced. Is this the correct interpretation ?
Yes, used motors are up to 25 ohms usually (those for Electrolux) work totally fine with no sound difference. New motor around 3-10 ohms. It seems like capacitor voltage is low, bad pcb, so replacing that board solve this issue. 👌
Can some of the motor insulation be removed where it blocks the exhaust of the motor, to give it stronger suction? Mine is weak compared to other models.
Hi, it doesnt matter, motor insulation (if it is not clogged/dirty) cant block suction power. Problem will be in somewhere else 🤔 does it change power during vacuuming or its sound?
Maybe it is problem of that regulator, or that PCB, but I never had this issue (usually it is clogged motor, accesories or issue with regulator/control board), try to replace that capacitor/s but i dont think it helps
Thank you! Helped me tear it down to check the cable winding unit (and tear that down as well). As I suspected it was broken -- but not in the way expected... The wall plug was broken. The rest of the cable and everything else was perfectly fine. Thankfully replacing the plug is easy (and legal). For others who might need to tear down the cable winding unit: Unwind it fully, block it from winding back up (I used a screwdriver through the holes), and follow the cable. It goes into a small box (maybe 6x6x2 cm) held in place by two small plastic tabs that stick up in front of it. With some work getting the tabs down AND prying on the top and bottom sides, you can pull that out entirely. The cables attach to that little box, which connects to the main unit via two brushes (not sure if that's the correct term, but basically they connect something stationary to something rotating). In my case, the only benefits to disassembly were cleaning and finding out the plug was broken, without having to cut the plug off before hand, but hey.
You are welcome, good to know, but in case you cant check cable plug, by moving with it then it is good to buy voltage tester for few € (good investment to have one in the household) and you can test where exactly the cable is damaged or if cord winder is under voltage 👍
Same, moreover, because of that, vacuum cleaner doesnt work at all when that hose stops working so you cant turn on vacuum cleaner 🫣 like in this model… thats the reason why I replaced boards, customer doesnt want to take risks that in future he has to buy another 120€+ electric hose (remote control board cost another 40€, new main board from Z8810 is cheaper), on top of that I was able to use some spare parts to “upgrade it” 😎
Yes, 2 cables from cord winder doesnt matter (blue/brown or black/black) which connector you pick from those 3, because 2 connectors on board are connected so doesnt matter either, but motor cable and cord winder cable have to be on right spot
First thanks for the dissasemly guide...not an easy piece. But i dont understand WHY this is a thing with this one?! I completely turn it appart and cleaned the motor and all components. Put in a new vacuum controlboard, i sucks like a whore but it still gets off! Whats about this motor? It cant get this hot after 30s onetime???
Hi, you are welcome, in your case it is not problem of motor, if you can start it right after motor turned off. Probably you have problem with capacitor like in this video: PURE D8.2 Silence - Electrolux PD82-4MB - The SmartMode Function Turn Off Vacuum Cleaner ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--vDEloEVNO0.html
If you can replace just the capacitor then it is like this video (orange or blue capacitor probably is doing this problem that it cant hold voltage so it turns off): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UNkRcVMLbK0.htmlsi=E_FlgLE1ULBtf3Ff
Thank you for this helpful video! 💡 I just replaced the cord winder of my Ergospace 1800w model with the help of your video. Did some other replacements of the pipe etc, and it's like new. Bought the vacuum back in 2011 or 2012 and it is still going strong. They don't like them like this any longer. 😄
My AEG VX8 has the same circuit. It turns on but it is always at maximum vacuum power, no matter where I put the min/max slider. The variable resistor works fine, and I've changed the three capacitors (the one in this video + the two yellow ones) but it does the same. Which component should I change in this case? Thanks! 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Hi, if you have VX8 with plastic regulator then it is probably problem of that board (with resistor), if all cables are fine, not damaged, check them first (measure connectivity). Try to disconnect that regulator (red connector) and turn on vacuum cleaner and tell me what it does. But best way is to take multimeter (voltmeter) and measure 2 contacts on motor connector while you are moving with power regulator.
That board 1181969047 cost around 15-18€, in 1 of 200 cases (in ultrasilencer model) I had to replace it even when it shows correct values - power randomly jumped up/down
@@proexservis Thank you very much, Martin and Alex! It was finally a miscontact between the red connector and the pcb pins, but finding it out wouldn't have been possible without your help. You guys are the best! 🙌🏻
Depends on year of production, 2012 XXLTT11 has still same motor 2191320015, but 2006-2012 had 2192612022 but replaced to 2193299035, if you dont have serial number on bottom of the vacuum cleaner then you are able to read this number directly from motor inside your vacuum cleaner.
8810'un süpürgesinin bağlantı yerinde de üçlü pin girişi var tıpkı 8870 gibi. 8810 normal, ekelktriksiz bir hortumla çalışabiliyorken 8870 neden çalışmıyor.
PCB kartını 8810 veya benzeri bir üründen değiştirebilirsiniz, ancak üst kapak ve 2 panelden oluşan bir kit gerekir (LED ekran kartı ve ana kart), bu değişimin maliyeti 60-80€ civarındadır ancak daha sonra elektriksiz hortum kullanabilirsiniz EN: you can replace pcb board from 8810 or similar, but you need kit of top cover and 2 boards (LED display board and main board), this change cost around 60-80€ but then you are able to use non-electric hose
Mehaba. 8870 elektrikli turbo başlıklı süpürgemin hortumunu ve borusunu daha ergonomik daha hafif başlıklarla kullanabilmek için USENERGY'nin elektrik devresi içermeyen hortumunu ve borusunu satın aldım. USENERGY'nin hortumu elektrik devresi içermiyor, süpürgeye giriş bağlantısında da üçlü pinleri yok haliyle. Hortumun girişi direkt süpürgenin girişine oturmasına rağmen süpürgeyi çalıştırmıyor. Süpürgeyi elektrik devresi içermeyen uygun model bir hortumla nasıl çalıştıraiblirim?
8870'in kontrol panosuna bağlı bir elektronik kartı daha olduğundan, elektrik hortumu olmadığında çalışmayacaktır, ekran 2-3 yanıp sönecektir EN (if google translate it wrong): because 8870 has one more electronic board, which is connected to control board, with no electric hose it will not start, display will blink 2-3
very good video. Step by step, I just used it synchronously. Without this information I would probably have broken something, especially at the beginning. Thank you very much 😀
Glad to hear that it helped you, but sorry for that at the same time, if it was your case, that you had only faulty capacitor. That one video (which you find first) is older (almost half year later I was able to confirm this solution, turning off problem is caused by capacitor) and usually for ppl who dont have soldering gun or are unable to replace just the capacitor is better to replace whole board. How old is your UltraSilencer vacuum cleaner?
This video was perfect, I was able to change the pcb and fix my AEG vacuum. Without this video I would have been stuck. Thanks. (The hardest part was clipping the main case back in place, take great care.)
Can the battery be disconnected easily from the green circuit chipboard? Can the 7-cell battery module be simply clicked in as a replacement without any soldering required?
Hi, yes, there are all plastic connectors, no soldering is needed. But be careful to not damage sensor connectors (those orange ones), easy to rip them off the board
Thanks for the replacement video, wasn't sure if the batteries and board came out without screws 😅, but seems just a border plate holding the battery housing in place 👍🏻 Btw what is the part number and capacity for the battery replacement?
You are welcome 👍 Which exact model do you have? PureQ models are 21.6V and 25.2V, new Electrolux 600 (ES62) is only 25.2V. PQ9 should have 2000-2100mAh
@@proexservis When I turn it on vacum cleaner works fine for a couple of minutes and then starts turning off and on all the time. I supose it could be thermofuse if it has it or capacitor
And then it turn on again after few minutes? If yes then it is thermal fuse, in yours is little different motor but you should try to clean it (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YieCp202pac.htmlsi=0YoXJmSzLpNiDcvM)
So if I understand there was 2 problems : short circuit on the power cable and damaged electronics ? What was the problem on the circuit board ? What component did you change ? I have the same problem but my power cable is fine.
It was just one problem, at owners house it keeps turning off, capacitor was not able to hold its voltage. That cable was “ok”, but probably it will not work too long because isolation was damaged (risk of short circuit or hurting someone), so replacing it was better than waiting. Problem at owners house is like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fDJvAODY5OY.htmlsi=X0VjKGKZFwJ6QiEW Board is PCB, Control DP+ (part number: 140075397129) or you can replace those two capacitors, yellow capacitor, which is 334K 275V-X2 and orange/blue capacitor should be 474K 275V-X2. Usually is enough to replace only one (not always) if you can test it after replacing that 474K
Thanks. I am very surprised by the low quality of this product electronics. Mine had the same problem after 2 years. They changed it under warranty. Then it failed again after 2 years and 3 months (so just after the 2 years warranty). I bought the pcb and hope it will solve the issue. Might only last for another 2 years, it seems. 🙄
It seems like that, but I am repairing even 5-8y old vacuum cleaners with this problem, usually 2-3years last those which are still (or most of the time) under voltage (plugged in) - isnt that your case too? …or maybe depends on electricity of each house
In our case, we usually don't let the hoover plugged to the socket all the time. Just my guess, but I would have thought that the power button would be before the pcb. So when it's off, no components are under voltage.
In modern vacuum cleaners there is micro switch and triode switch so that capacitor is under current voltage when is plugged in. Cheaper models (and old ones) have on/off button - in case of Electrolux brand, but i.e. Dyson, Bosch, Rowenta and others if there is no remote control handle they have on/off button even on their expensive model
This is officially one of my favourite videos on the internet. It's the only thing I could find about solving this problem. I managed to fix it for about 25$ instead of shelling out hundreds for a new vacuum cleaner! Thanks!
Interesting video, thank you for it! Excuse me, is this a common issue for these series (including the "Green" version)? Cause this is not the only video I found about how to replace their cord reel part...
@SoldierOfSunrise hi, thank you too 👍 No, on this model most often will break plastic regulator or pcb stops working. Cord winder is the same as on 90% of Electrolux vacuum cleaners, so nothing special, cable is not thick enough to survive more years (5+) if you dont hold cable during rewinding to slow it little bit (or if you hold cable reel button with no stops then it can damage cable if it is in bad position for too long inside of vacuum cleaner +fast rewinding can damage reel spring) - but if you take care of this then it can work longer than its motor, more often owner damage cable by pulling it too strong out (when cable stuck somewhere or when entire cable is already out of vacuum) or by pets 🫣
@@proexservis , thank you so much for the quick response, and the useful info! Excuse me, but could you help me for a while in my decision? My current vacuum cleaner has gone wrong, and I'm fed up with the extreme prices of their accessories, so I'm close to go back to the "good old" Electrolux. (That is why I'm watching these videos on RU-vid right now.) I see, thati n my country (Hungary), at the official Electrolux shop the Hungarian made UltraOne, the UltraOne Green, UltraSilencer, and the D8, D9 models are still available for purchase. But I realized, that the company moved the production to China (not a good news to me), and that new 300,500,600, 800 series of course are sold in all kind of setups. (I wonder how long those recycled plastic housing would last without a break... 2 years? 3 years? 😒🙄 ) What do you think, please, which would be the right choice! To help your answer: I don't care about noise level. The main criterias to me are: - the possible best dust filtering, - Possible best vacuum power, - And I don't mind, if It wont break in 3 years, so would last at least 4-5 years expectedly. (I know, any additional working time beyond 2-3 years is sadly a present for all nowadays' echnological products for households.) (Of course there are "good to have" attributes as well - e.g. possibly the longest cord - , but the above 3 criterias are the most important.) So which would be the right choice, please? UltraOne, UltraOneGreen, D8-9 or one of the new x000 models made in China? Your help is much appreciated! (If the great ESP74DB was still available as new item, it would not be a question to me. But now, I'm sorry, I cannot decide.)
Because of recycled plastic and because of that every part was already made in china (except motors - slovenia), it was reasonable to move whole production to china, in these cases it is not problem: pure d8/d9 or same but newer electrolux 800 But I would pick Ultrasilencer EUSC (because of hose connection from top of the lid, radius same as EUO/PD8/9, filtration, noise volume better than EUO but not as PD9/E800 and because of long history of US, this model was designed in 2013, so very capable and spare parts are available for over decade) then ultraone and then pured8/9/electrolux800 (because of higher price). Electrolux 300/500 is old EasyGo (overpriced 60-80€ model), only Electrolux 600 is new model (it is some new chinese design, but not great as US/UO/PD: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QaqfSihFIOs.htmlsi=NdzEU8zhGvuFpS3V).
@@proexservis , thank you so much! I highly appreciate your knowledge and willingness to help! 🙏 (BTW... the linked comparison of the 3 models was the 1st video I've checked, when I was searching for info about the new Elux models on RU-vid. 🙂 ) Unfortunately meantime in the official Electrolux shop, the UltraSilencer became "out of stock". 😥(Won't get restocked, I'm afraid. Their "summer sale" is ongoing...) - Do you think, that hose connection on the front of the machine (like UltraOne or D8/9) has a disadvantage? If yes, what is that comparing to the "top of the lid" connection type? 🤔 - You are right, as Pure D8/9, and Ultimate 800 are too expensive for me. So currently these are the available models and options for me: 1. EUOC94DB - UltraOne 66 dB - 166 EURO, 2. EUOC9GREEN - UltraOne 66 dB - 172 EURO, 3. EB61A5UG - Animal 600 73 dB - 139,5 EURO, Also, there are 4. EPF62IS PowerForce - 154 EURO, 5. PF61RR PowerForce - 86 EURO. So considering everything, which is the best product I should choose, please?
Last US has tech. documentation from 2022, so maybe there is still chance they will produce this line as it is or under new name, i wish 🤔 for example last EPF (powerforce) has docs from 2020 and is still in stock Hose in front (in my opinion) is bad for action radius, damaging hose when you are pulling it behind during vacuuming and dust/dirt in bag is always in that hose connection if you are using bag till its maximum 😅 but it is true that UO has advantage over US, can use more space of bigger E210 s-bag. Some shops are still selling UltraSilencers, but dont pick EB61 over UO or PF (this one only if you dont mind less cable length). EUOC or EUOCGreen, doesnt matter too much, one is produced with 50-70% recycled plastic and one is normal, pick by colour preference or go “eko”, those few plastic doesnt save anything when you compare it to big chunk of plastic in everyday usage 🫣
For s-bag is top model right now Pure D9 (or newer same model made from recycled plastic: Electrolux 800 EB81), if you dont want to spend fortune, then price/quality top model (in my opinion) is ErgoSpace (2012-2016 models) and UltraSilencers (from 2013), by power it was Maximus or Oxygen or old UltraOne (but you cant compare old 2000W models with new ones which have motor up to 850W only)
What about the vacumn cannister can you show how to screw it back on the inside part please. I unscrewed to empty the top part and nw i cant put it back together as its not matching up 😅
Hi, can you send photo which part you cant match together? 🤔 to martin@proex.sk Because i have this cannister in hands and those 3 big screws cant be elsewhere and those 8 small screws are in positions to top cover
Hi, probably carbon brushes are in bad cond (worn out), but no, it will not blow up. It will stop working after all or it will heat up because of that, but thermal protection will disconnect it if temp is too high. You can try to clean that motor/fuse and check rotor/brushes. Motor of this model should be like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bRABNG_0T6k.htmlsi=AQrhaZQ5FLXCOPSl
Ergospace is great vacuum cleaner, if it is in good shape then yes, worth it, but keep eye on your bag holder, dont lose it (is no longer available for 2-3years already)
