Mostly about tennis and car things so far (all in efforts to help you out!), but will likely have some more random things here and there as time goes on…
Something to consider - I may just do that! Based on string construction, I would think rate of tension loss would be syn gut>multifilament>natural gut. We’ll see if I could confirm that in the future
I'm a Natural Gut and syn/multi hybrid. Natural Gut won't lose tension as much. You would use syn/mult as the cross. If you play flat/power the syn/mult will break and you can reuse the natural gut for two times or even three if lucky. If you hit topspin or don't hit cleanly in the sweet spot the natural gut will break. If you play with spin it's better to use poly full bed because using natural gut would be a waste, like no benefit for spin, or I meant why try breaking the natural gut for spin. 16 Natural Gut, 17 syn/multi, 17 poly.
@@TrumpforPresident24 i want to play gut main since it has good power & comfortable.. feedback was abundant. I cross it with smooth poly to add little bit of spin. I play pretty flat. Spin only to take down the ball.. rarely hit heavy topspin… why don’t you cross it with poly? Why cross w multi?
@@akbarberlian Using the syn/multi cross I seem to get much more power. I want more power. I just like seeing my flat serve hit the fence in one bounce. I've tried poly cross with gut. I tried hitting my serve as hard as I can, the ball just won't hit the fence so like I'm missing something. I tried looser tension poly and now I can't even control or feels even worse with the Gut. It's probably the feel - Boardy or Trampoline. And I like it boardy. Everyone have their own feel of the string bed. I do play a full bed of poly if I'm actually hitting a technique motion to produce spins, and yeah I learn poly should only be for spin hitting players and not for flat power player. Syn/multi if I play my game as a flat and power game, maybe just a little spin if it needs it to make it over the net. Poly do have power string too. I will have to try that out soon. Maybe that can be the type of poly to exchange the multi.
@@TrumpforPresident24 I have tried almost all your experiment before.. I kinda agree. what's the benefits between Gut/multi hybrid compared to full multi like triax or Velocity? also what is your playing style? Double & S&V player would benefit from your setup.. But for baseliners.. idk..
Haha, funny thing is the person hitting wouldn’t really notice the gradual change until the next string job, then the reply is “they feel great” when they’re fresh off the stringing machine! So yes, probably gradually dying strings. Player was hitting moderate- to fast-paced balls, settings of drills and match play.
Hi thanks for the video. I put x1 biphase 16 guage in my stable of old prostaff 6.1 classic 95s. It feels pretty good to me. I get good power and it's easy on the arm. I string it at 57 and it drops about 10 percent after the break in. What is your thought on my setup? Is there another string you'd recommend for my old prostaffs? Thanks much.
X-one biphasic is a good choice, particularly if you want to save the arm. Another good string is Tecnifibre NRG2 - similar to biphase, but a bit less powerful. Wilson NXT is also highly rated and worth a try. Babolat Xcel is another good multifilament. If you don’t hit with a lot of spin, multifilament should last; however, if you do hit with a lot of spin and you don’t mind the lack of durability, gamma ocho xp is a great choice since it’s a shaped multifilament (and, interestingly, feels like stringing natural gut)
Thats why I prestretch my polys. And not the around the pole method but pulling on one side of the string and actually elongating the string. I tend to restring when the dt drops below 52 so thanks for the vid. Its time to restring. No clue how you can play with a dt that low.
Some people like it at low tension. I don’t get how they can maintain control of the ball, even with poly. I like my tension on most of my racquets between 51 to 53 lbs, depending on conditions.
You could do a search online to see where you can purchase. There are other testers you can use as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sa6NEK4ymG0.htmlsi=aW08BEPUAAQG3AM4
I am pretty happy with the XLT, though in hindsight I should have gotten the level up, as I added the floor stand and caster wheels, and upgraded the clamp bases as well. The prices add up to more expensive than the next level up! That being said, the tensioner is quite accurate, as I use the 2090 calibrator to ensure it’s pulling the proper tension. As for the clamp bases, they are called “switch action cam lock clamp base” which I purchased directly from Gamma. Thanks for watching!
@@user-uq8qi8se9w no problem. Unfortunately no regarding the 20% knot; you would have to manually change your tension to do that if you wanted to do more than 10% for knot tie
Realise this is a general summary. For a future video it would be nice to know what the starting / reference tension was when stringing. Also rate of tension loss. Ie how much tension dropped in first 24 hours after stringing / before first hit, then how quickly and consistently it lost tension. I use a mechanical constant pull stinging machine (Easy Stringer) and a phone app (all v. low budget). But I have observed something like a 4-5lb on most firm polys within 24hours, then a rapid drop after an hour or two of play, then a pretty consistent level after that up to the 10-12hour mark. Be interested to know if you see something similar with the ERT. What amazes me is how few people seem to discuss the fact their playing tension is likely quite far off their reference tension. Ie people must be playing at much lower tensions than they realise?
I actually had taken it right off the stringer and started with that reference tension. It was hit within 24 hours, so I don’t know what the loss actually was in the first 24 hours. A similar comment was posted earlier, and I had actually already planned on doing a video on tension loss after 24 and 48 hours of the racquet sitting at rest. Stay tuned for that video! And I agree - I’m sure people feel like the racquet hits great right after a fresh string job, and then they don’t realize the gradual change until they get a new string job only to get that great hitting feeling once again. Thanks for your input!
Possibly, though I’ve never really tested specifically. That being said, I have a friend who I strung their racquet at 55 lbs (Wilson Prostaff) with Yonex Poly Tour Spin (poly), and they played sparingly with it. A year later, it was returned to me for a string job and when tension was tested, it was at or below the lowest level of tension reading on my tension reader at the time (MSV Mini STT), so it may have been extremely low for all I know
Tension loss 18% in 10 hours. I use ERT300 and get approximately the same results. In my experience good polyester strings last 12 hours and lose 16-18%.
No, starting tension was 48 lbs; after 10 hours, loss was to 40 lbs (so ~17% loss). I re-tested another 4 hours later (i.e. total of 14 hours), and loss was to 37 lbs (~23% loss).
For sure - I failed to do that in this video as an afterthought but corrected my ways in my other video!: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-axqC3JaC2JI.htmlsi=JaAIFWGP1gLbA_qE Thanks for watching!
40 pounds 18kg strung? with a medium or soft polyster? Maybe ok with RPM Blast. If you not string every second day I would recommend strung it little higher so you like it few play hours later or after a week. Strings drops tension fast and then stay there. Restring after one or two month when the polyster string lost its bite.
ok I got the number wrong I guess. anyway string the raquet so you like it most after 4-6 hours of play, choose a polyster that maintain tension well. all drops ofcourse but its huge difference inbetween.
I don’t want to keep paying for restringing. Should I get my racquet string with a little more tension than I normally like so once I hit for a few days, the string tension settles into a range that I actually like?
If i were you, I wouldn't worry too much. To try and put it into context for you, top players need their strings replaced more regularly, they hit through the ball so they lose tension quicker, and the particular string set up they use get less feel, become less 'lively', and 'dead' very quickly. Good players can feel it. And on the opposite end of the scale, Great Aunt Kittensocks, who goes down to social tennis 3 times a week, who just pats the ball back for 2-3 hours before her tea and cake, may never need her polyester strings replaced, she will never know or feel the difference, they will last her 20 years and beyond.
yea exactly what you should do with polyster! It drops tension over time also especially first few days. You will know how you should string it so after 5 days or 2 weeks you really like it. Up to you when you would restring after
I tried doing this once. I strung a racket at 56 bs (I normally go for 52lbs or 53lbs) and I regretted. Even when the tension dropped a little it still felt weird, like I had no feedback from the strings, a board-like feeling. I don't recommend going above the tension you're accustomed to. It's been a month and I have played probably 8 hours with it, and that thing still feels weird. Probably was the string job, but I dunno man...
Poly strings are monofilaments & have elasticity like a spring. It's this springiness that gives you spin & feedback. Once they lose that, the poly is "dead" which is typically 10-15 hours of play! Over tensioned poly is like a spring that is over stretched, it loses its ability to return to its coiled state. If you use poly you should re-strjng 2X the no. of times you play in a week. If you play 3 times a week, you re-string at least 6 times a year.
I use the old school Gamma spring loaded tension tester and usually take 4 measurements: 2X on the mains (from center: 2 to left, 2 to right) and 2X the crosses right around the sweet spot. I noticed the same, about 4lbs give or take after about 4-5 hrs of play (I string w/ soft poly) Gonna look into the ERT300, looks like it’s very simple to use and probably more consistent and accurate vs the manual spring loaded device (gamma) Thanks for sharing!
No problem; thanks for watching! I also plan on doing a video on tension after hitting for 10 hours with multifilament to compare to poly. Stay tuned for that one!
@@tennis3339 every string will lose tension, but all at different rates. If you’re looking to minimize tension loss, consider multifilament or natural gut. HOWEVER, you sacrifice durability with those as the strings may snap relatively early, particularly if you hit with a lot of spin. If you’re a flat hitter, they can last quite a while (I know someone whose multifilament strings lasted for months because they hit fairly flat shots)
Is the ball rescuer worth it if I only have one of them? I mean, if I have just one ball rescuer but 6 balls total. Can I mantain 3 of them inside in a week, then the other 3... You think it would be useful?
Yes, the point of them is to make flat balls not flat, after you repressurize your balls you can just store the others in a container with a lid, they’ll lose some pressure but should still be enough to play with, especially compared to a flat ball.
@@kkui8635 It's useful if the loss of pressure after being pumped is slow. In my mind, for some reason, these balls would become flat again pretty quickly.
I originally purchased from Tennis Giant in Canada, but I don’t think they sell it anymore. I’m sure you could find it online if you search for ‘gamma xlt stringing machine floor stand’
i believe the revive/restore/ball saver are 14 psi over atmospheric pressure, so ~28 psi in total pressure. 14 psi is less than 1 standard atmospheric pressure, it doesn't make sense if it's only 14 psi.
Dude do you even lift? Only wussies need a "solution" like this. And besides. this only works with studs on to which the wheel can hang. Most Japanese and European cars don't have studs but bolts. Those wheels hang of the hub and fall off easily. One needs to hold/press a wheel against the hub, grab the first bolt and screw it in so the wheel won't drop off, thus this contraption won't work very well.
While I wouldn't need that for auto, that would be nice to have for solid rubber tires on skidsteers. A prybar works, but when you do several units a day it takes its toll.
If you need one of these you're pretty pathetic. I put on very heavy tractor tires with calcium chloride in them, and I don't need any of this crap. Do you want to know the secret....... Stop making excuses and get strong.
@@CanadianAnanthyou're a Canadian so it doesn't surprise me that you need one. I'll grab one in each hand and put them on easily. Because I'm an American Farmer. The world has gone soft.
Great video! This is exactly the same for the front and rear wipers on a GLC300. Never knew about the maintenance mode for the wipers. Tried it and it works the same on my GLC. Really handy for when washing the car. Rear wiper is the same as your E63S. This is the only video I found that shows how to change this style of rear window wiper. Thanks
Thanks for this vid 👍. How long to they need to be in the containers for to notice a difference. I've just got a 'head' branded one, but nowhere does it say for how long you are supposed to leave them to 'cook' for 🤷♂️
I would definitely say the ball rescuer works. We’ve hit with some propenn balls for 4 hours, then put them in the rescuer for about a week, then took the balls out again to hit and they seemed to have even more bounce than before! Of course, felt will start to wear down so the ball’s lifespan will be limited by that aspect
Nope, pretty much bone-stock (other than blacking out that rear chrome strip)! Haven’t really planned on modding my current cars since my ricer ambitions of the late 90’s/early 00’s. Haha. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! It’s the Gamma XLT floor stand; there were optional caster wheels that I got with it - makes a world of difference to allow me to move the machine around when needed
Really good video as you explained how to use various tools and why. Where did you buy the Babolat starting clamp? I cannot seem to find it anywhere, only the Gamma brand which is fine, but in reviews I read that the best one out there is Babolat. Thanks.
I live in Canada, and there’s a store here called Racquetguys that I primarily use for my stringing needs. Another place I’ve used is Racquetdepot which is based out of the UK. Hopefully you’ll have luck in those places!
Answer: it depends. Personally, I like to string within the tension range recommended by the manufacturer (usually can find that information somewhere on the throat of the racquet or doing some digging online). In terms of absolute tensions, just keep in mind that lower tensions will generate more power and higher tensions will give more control, in general. Thanks for watching!
It’s called a String Thing String Straightening Device. I used to use my fingers to straighten while the racquet was still mounted on the machine, but this is much less time-consuming!
Really nice and we'll explained. I did the same on mines and I added 10% on the knot, that means in kg..+2kg and what I've noticed is that it really pulled on the frame and made the raquet rounder. Now if I'll cut the strings, will the raquet come to its original form or the frame will remain in the same position??
Hi Catalin, a few things come to mind: is the tension you’re stringing in the recommended range for the racquet? Was the racquet adequately supported with the mounts while stringing? Was the racquet damaged in any way prior to stringing (i.e. cracked)? If the racquet is structurally sound, there should be recoil so the frame should come back to its shape prior to stringing. Also, racquet stiffness may also play a role in what you’re seeing when you string. Thanks for watching!
@@funkyfreshg sorry for the late reply. Yes the tension is among the one recomanded by Yonex. Now there are some things though. Every frame will be deformed while stringing and it also depends on the stringing technique. 4 knots with 1kg lower on the crosses will keep the frame "rounder". 4 knots with the same tension mains and crosses will pull back the frame to it's original unstrung form.2 knots with 1kg lower on the crosses will pull the frame back to it's original form. 2 knots , same tension mains/crosses...well I haven't tried that yet...I'm out of string 🤣🤣🤣
@@ATELIERDUCORDAGE yes, very true. Will be apparent with hybrid string tensions on the mains and crosses. All things being equal and racquet not damaged, you will for sure get some deformity with stringing, even under normal stringing circumstances (and more so with tensions outside the recommended ranges for the racquet). If you REALLY want to mess with the shape, try stringing one side entirely when doing mains then do the other side…haha. Though I would only do that with a racquet you don’t mind potentially damaging! Haha
@@funkyfreshg aaaa nope!!! Don't think I'm gonna do that, i really like my raquetes 😈 and I'm more interested in upgrading to the gamma xlt that you have rather then breaking raquets 😉
@@ATELIERDUCORDAGE haha, of course! Just joking, for sure. As for the Gamma XLT, I’m very happy with it. Can’t beat the electronic constant-pull tensioner! I would have loved to get a Wilson Baiardo or Yonex PT8, but alas the price points for those were cost-prohibitive…
