@@Tinker_Box I use a btt pi, I tried to follow the steps, but when it comes to editing the file sudo ''nano /boot/config.txt'', I can't find the file, I wanted to use only the LCD, I wouldn't need the buttons
@@JonathanAraujo-SenhorVip Okay, try sudo nano /boot/firmware/config.txt and please let me know how it went. Raspberry Pi OS seems to have changed the file's location.
혹시 릴레이가 한번 close 되면 다시 open 안되는 이유 알 수 있을까요? BTT SKR mini e3 v3, 라즈베리 4B, 3V relay 모듈 3V3 에 연결, PSU 전원공급, GUI 버튼토글만 사용(moonraker.cfg 만 수정) 했습니다. 5V relay 모듈도 사용해봤는데 같네요.
For some reason, my RPi refuses to trigger either relay if the MCU isn't currently active. As a result, the relays "work" if the MCU is connected to the NC of the relay and does actually. shut off when commanded, but the RPi cannot turn it back on until it is shutdown. I did switch from 5v relays to 3.3 volt relays to np avail.
In my design, both MCUs are still alive even when the printer itself is off. This is because the printer’s MCU keeps being powered by the Raspberry Pi through USB connection. See 10:45.
@@Tinker_Box I'm using the BTT SKR Mini E3 v3. Apparently the USB 5v isn't enough to keep the MCU up. Oh well. I've got the second relay for whatever I need in the future.
45w for 2 batteries in an enclosed box, lol. This works best for 2s 3p configuration to distribute the load. At almost 7.5 A, each cell puts too much stress on the batteries during charging. Whoever designed this was probably drunk when he made it, hahaha. Edit: For people who charge at 20 w below, you can use power bank modules like IP5328P. It is simpler and compatible with a 1S battery setup. I'll wait for this IP5386 boards to drop their price so that I can use my recycled cells from e-bikes and include an 2S active balancer. 25 USD is too much.
Hey! thanks, the video is amazing! I have pretty much the same setup and was going to build one aswell thanks to this(Def not as well made but im working on it)! I figured id ask because i also have the makita router, would you be willing to send me some of your feeds and speeds you use? I have experimented in fusion but i have had relatively poor results. If you have an tools export for fusion that would be amazing! if not no worries! the video is still great! thanks!
Hi, and thanks for asking. I’m a bit on the cautious side, and I use about 150 speed. Depth per pass is about 1-1.5 mm. Of course it depends heavily on the tools and materials, I always see, listen and rather keep changing the feed rate while in operation. Hope it helps!!
instead of the spot welder, i uses a Goot 40w soldering iron with boost mode. When the iron is hot, a quick 3 second dab on the terminals is good enough without heating up the liOn battery.
Did you happen to measure the diameter of the primary winding wire of the output transformer? Approximately by eye? What are the dimensions of transformer iron?
What are your impressions over time? Have you checked the quality of the output transformers? What inductance? I ordered one for myself. Your video inspired me. Thank you, I will watch and do it.
Sound quality is good, but mine has gotten 5u4g arcing. I guess the culprit are the capacitors next to it, so I tried different values and swapped to a new tube, but this second tube started to arc a few days ago. Not very fun 😭 but it could be different for you. Good luck!!
@@Tinker_Box Specialists in tube amplifiers suggested that the first 150 uF capacitor was to blame for the breakdown of the kenotron. It should be reduced to 30-50 µF. And increase the second to 330-470 µF.
@@manashara2504 That was what I tried, although I went through different capacitor values combination. I’m not sure what my final values were but I’ll check it tomorrow and let you know..
@@manashara2504 I used two 33uFs in parallel for the primary, and left 150uF as it was for the secondary. Once my new 5U4C tube arrives, I plan to take off one of the two 33uFs, and see how it goes.
You play music from your Pi, and sound will come out through the headphone jack/output ports on this module, which is powered by you guess what, Pi again. 👌
@@Tinker_Box so it cannot use without pi? I thought it can use without that and can also use with 5v power supply like charger and connect to cellphone to input of that DAC and out to connect to amplifier
@@user-uk8fo5ol4q okay now I see where you’re coming from. This and other modules like this are very primitive and simple ones than the DACs in a more everyday meaning. This one can only function by piggybacking on another computer. It cannot even be connected to USB or Bluetooth by itself.
OMG I am facing the saem issue with my IKEA tabel top, have been looking for solutions, looks like I will go with this idea, but can you share the proper dimension used? pls pls
My underframe is like 710x1460x740 mms(depth, width, height). Since IKEA changes the specs and availability of their table tops pretty often, you should really adapt your design to the actual measurement of the top you have :) Here's the link to the Autodesk Fusion file: a360.co/44WjXha
Probably the only cells that could handle 45W charging in two pieces are Samsung 30T, but again that would drastically limit the capacity of the power bank.
Note that the linux mcu implementation does not currently support directly connected neopixels. The current design using the Linux kernel interface does not allow this scenario because the kernel GPIO interface is not fast enough to provide the required pulse rates. Is this still valid?
Well, I can’t test it because I changed my printer. However, my design only controls the relay switch and it has nothing to do with Neopixels nor PWM. I believe it’ll still work.
@@Tinker_Box I've tried it with strip of ten leds without success. Have tried running data line from my rpi4 on gpio26 and also from printer via PB15. Have power coming from printer psu through a drok step down converter. Neither works for me, and all the tutorials I've watched, which is practically all of them, do not cover this very well.
Wow That help so much! The fact that you show some common error messages and how to resolved them is really great ! Thx now klipper is working fine on my ender 3 :)
i had 2 INR21700-40T from a project left and wanted to Build this Powerbank... it seems taht the Charging Curcuit only recognizes 2500 mah cells... anybody else with this problem_?
@@Tinker_Box I know right? I'm almost sad I didn't do red like you did. My Panapet was red. Shame there is no use for an encoder knob.. you could recreate since you are so close! I did mine in translucent blue with my resin printer. Eager to try this out. Thanks for all your work!!
@@Tinker_Box Hey! Built this and he looks great in transparent blue. One small problem with the Fusion 360 design of the front panel - It's either too low in position OR too short. I noticed that the WIFI signal strength meter and IP address on the very top line is covered up. In my print it has the neat effect that I can see it through the cover and it's just extra info, but if you FDM print it you would not be able to see it. I don't know if that is a difference in the screen (Chinesium tolerances), or maybe this was added later to the OLED code? The bottom seems to be correct in location, so I'm guessing it just needs the opening widened. Anyhoo, I accidentally cracked my front cover anyway, so I'll reprint Height of opening +3.75mm on top and see how it works out. I dont know why any of that is because in your video I can see all of the screen elements, but maybe the code changed to use more of the screen real estate? Also - you no longer need to do the command prompt procedure to load the OLED code - the plugin is native now. It's the same megacrab code too.
@@jimb032 I’m very glad that you’ve made one. 😊 Sorry about the screen issue. I had to measure the screen size manually and although I tried my best, I think there are mismatches. I also was not an avid Fusion user back then. Thanks for letting me know this issue and good luck to you!
It is so impossibly hard to find and choose the best options, especially if you don't have a lot of money. There are so many pros and cons and stipulations to each and every option that it just becomes impossible to really plan out a good, inexpensive upgrade for printing at higher temperatures and speeds. This seems like one of the better options, but I think it's outside my price range. I would really love to find a lightweight, high speed, high temperature upgrade that I can afford. 최고의 옵션을 찾고 선택하는 것은 불가능할 정도로 어렵습니다. 특히 돈이 많지 않은 경우에는 더욱 그렇습니다. 각 옵션마다 장단점과 규정이 너무 많아서 더 높은 온도와 속도에서 인쇄하기 위한 훌륭하고 저렴한 업그레이드를 실제로 계획하는 것이 불가능해졌습니다. 이것이 더 나은 옵션 중 하나인 것 같지만 제 가격대를 벗어나는 것 같아요. 저는 제가 감당할 수 있는 경량, 고속, 고온 업그레이드를 찾고 싶습니다.
