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If you order direct through paypal and pay the 4% fee you will have buyer protection! I have ordered many batteries from them and not had one issue, besides the mentioned wait.
Cool build! Good to see different ideas for putting it all together. The Dewalt case is very nice. I'd take a setup like this over a Blue Yeti any day!
Hi there, the FD are great when it comes to this.. you get a 3 speed switch and can customize the power on each setting... So right now on a fast build like this I do a 1.) 25% with rpm limit of like 3000 and a 2.) 50% with rom limit of 5000 and then 3.) 100% crazy setting. You can also limit the power overall, so if its a kits only bike, you can just set the max amps to like 40a, and it will be nice and smooth for younger riders.
Spoke to seller thru aliexpress. Its doubld d shaft only. The rep said i couldnt get or there was no splined option. Picture on their page is a little misleading
I may do that on another build! But believe it or not, it bolts right up with a little pushing and pulling in the right direction. Just get the CRF plastics.
I don't know I'd be much more impressed with 2000 kW power I mean that's do you know how many bikes you could charge with 2000 kilowatts. More than three
Hey, I bought a Bluetooth dongle for my Fardriver nd72360 and can’t get it to connect on the app. Can you please help me or give me advice on what to do. Thank you.
Yoooo, do you have your FD all powered up and switched on? It should show in your bt devices in the fd app, called foc something... Check out my far driver wiring guide to see what it should look like
The only “sketchy” bikes are poorly built and setup ones with improperly built/configured batteries. Fires don’t happen for no reason. This man knows what he is doing. You do not.
These dc to dc converters are really popular, up to 20a per unit. amzn.to/3Y8VVOK If you have many devices, youd want to make sure you dont go over 20a or use multiple converters. If you need more than 20a draw you may want to start rethinking your 12v accessories and what you are trying to accomplish with them. Sometimes going up to 120v AC makes more sense.
So far everything runs under capacity and cool as a cucumber. All my copper is oversized as a precaution. Thats what ohms law is for, to prevent wild fires 🔥.
I'm guessing the 2awg is used for the heavy line side going into the converter to bring it up to mains voltage, getting 2000 watts from the panels means roughly about 41 amps, that's impressive, you must have; atleast in terms of ratings, atleast a 200amp service which is radical 😎 Edit: consider yourself one sub richer
@@janceifyre thank you! 2awg is from the all in one inverter to the batt bus bars... Solar is 10x200w in series so only about 9a, but 230v. 10awg is oversized, but it's best to build for future expansion. 👍 amzn.to/3Y1WU3f
Wish I’d seen this sooner. Ordered a wiring harness for 30$ when I could’ve just watched this. I also lost my Bluetooth dongle so that’s another 50$ and week of waiting. 😅
Thank you. I wasn't able to find many videos on this product, and the videos I did find cut out the part where it showed the wiring of the controller. This helps a lot.
I’ve been charging through main discharge port with 2 19ah scuds in parallel for almost 2 years. I also had issue la in the beginning with the smaller port and haven’t bothered with it since. Batteries still charge to 54v no prob
The video helped me out tremendously. Thank you very much. One question about the charging. I want to use the same charging method you pointed in the video. I have to solder the female xt60 bullet plug to a female xt60 plug right? And what guage wire should I use. This would be my first time soldering anything. Once again thanks for your help you're the man!
Thank you! Yes Sir, there are a lot of videos on how to solder a xt60 or 90 check em out, its easy once you know how to setup your connections. I would use 14awg wire, little extra but you should never skimp on your wiring. I use it on all my chargers. Good luck!
Sure!! So I have about $500 into the QS electronics, and $900 into the Amorge battery.. all said and done I am $1500 in with the frame and I am keeping up to or beating $5000 surrons! It's a really fun build. If I did it again I'd go a little bigger on the battery (250+amp) and the 1 step up on motor (qs138). Since this is a pretty big frame, it takes a bit of power to get it moving.
You can wire 4x 12v batteries in parallel or in series... Series 100a 48v is the same watt hours as parallel 400ah 12v. You get the same amount of watts either way, but on 48v you get to use those watts more efficiently.
Great point! I should do that more.. for now all the info is on its listing! www.alibaba.com/product-detail/KR5V-Kunray-72V-5000W-Upgrade-Motor_1601074663671.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.5fdb4340pZuAsI
I just recently bought the same battery, an MY1020 motor and a Kelly controller. Any good resources for wiring? I got the stuff from Electro and Co. Getting the battery to tomorrow. Installing in a razor MX650. Thanks for the content!
I know it's loose from the suspension not being compressed since it's on a lift, but chain drives generally require a roller or tensioner to run smoothly
You are not wrong! I did start with a tensioner, but had the same issue. The motor is just very jittery which makes the chain slap all around. Hotpaxx is sending me another controller, so we will see if that works! I have 3 other builds that don't have this issue.
Review your controller tuning/configs. That's as important as the bike itself and It can be a project on itself. But once is done, will never need to change anything anymore
Your not gunna get the same voltage from a charging port. I cut them off and wire in the stock xlr port to it since most dont come with the xlr charger adapter. Ive charged through the discharge port aswell. The battery bms is rated for 2.5v chargers. Ive ran it at 5amps through either of the ports with no issues aswell. Lol.
Rpm limit. This is normal fardriver stuff after you do the auto-learn process. From there you have to go back and tune up a few things. Shoot me a message and ill get you dialed.
Thats the phase wires/hall wires mixed up? I don't know much about this stuff, but my vevor did the same until I switch some wires. I have a chinese unbranded controller (cheap) cus im running 36v on a mx350.
I did try all the different variations to check.. no luck. Its def wired right, colors match and all, works amazing till about 3500rpm then it runs like crap above that. It's got to be something different then phase wires/hall sensors.. maybe offsets, or some weird parameters but I have messed with most of them to no avail..
Even though its a new motor? I had this same issue with a vevor motor and a different far driver.. after a lot of playing, I ended up not solving the issue, went back to dumb controller and its now smooth as silk. I have another motor I can swap it with, but that's a last resort..
What type of controller is the dumb controller? I got the same setup from hot packs and my1020+ motor does that.I switch the motor to the new Kunray kv5 and now it doesn't.
@@profiletheone1184 Maybe a Vevor controller? Not sure where I mentioned that.. but yeah I am returning these motors... they are not smooth, I've tried the FD 72380 and 300 and Flipsky 100 with no luck. Going Kr5v next!
I think they ship pretty quick, like a week or 2 now that they are in stock... but I did wait about 6w for mine since I guess I bought on the pre-sale list. www.alibaba.com/product-detail/KR5V-Kunray-72V-5000W-Upgrade-Motor_1601074663671.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.5fdb4340pZuAsI
After using 12v Li batterys for 5 years and if I had to do it again I would switch to 48v. And just use one 12v Lithium battery to run the 12v house side. The 48v would just be to make 120v AC. Then I could run everything, even our roof A/C's without all the stress on the components. Yes, the copper is a bit cheaper, and the other components may cost more, but that huge high amperage needed to make AC from 12v is problematic. We love to boondock and being able to run everything from the batteries would be an even better experience.
Yes yes yes, I totally agree. A lot of people don't realize how much power it takes to heat or cool.. if you are running these larger loads you definitely want to go 48v for a much more efficient system. thank you for your experience!
How’s the motor shaft? I’ve seen two different types. One that’s like the my1020 and the other is splined like the “one” ec4p. Be nice if it was splined pushing 15+kW
I didn't get to pick from Alibaba, but I got the double D shipped to me. So far so good running 190a (15k watts). I too would have rather had the splined shaft, maybe next build!
Getting around 50mph on the stock gearing. I like having the low end torque for trails, don't really need to go faster than that. I could go much faster if I changed the gearing, but I'd give up a lot of torque.
Hi, I would like to buy an ecoworth battery like this one in the video, and look, I have an inverter identical to yours but with 3000w. I wanted to know if you recommend it and also could you please write me the bulk parameters, absorption time and float? I have an epever 6415AN, my epever offers a bulk of 58v for the lifepo4, a max charge of 58.40 and a float of 55.20v. Do you think they're good? Some users say they are high in parameters. What do you suggest ? Thank you very much .
Hey there! Lifepo4 doesn't really use a float function, you can just charge it to 58v no problem.. I charge mine to 57v which is a tad less, but little less stress on the pack over time. It settles around 54v so any charge over that is pretty close to full. I set my disconnect for 45v, leaving a little left in the battery so I don't go to 0% as well.
@@TackleThat Thank you very much, in fact I thought to charge in bulk at 57.30-60 (max charge charge at 58.40) or a little less and even if a float is not expected in order not to always leave the batteries in a boost state, give a float of 56.40 v finally the disconnection at 44 v.
You should show how to get fardriver controller connected wiring as well as software as I got one and now one 1️⃣ shows how it works as the people who switch to using fardriver are new to it and know nothing about anything and if you do put up that video try to show it to somebody who doesn’t know anything about e-bikes and see if they understand cheers
Thank you for the comment! Yes, sounds great. I will do more videos on upgrading to a FD controller soon. I got an upgrade to 48v coming soon.. then going to do a motor and controller addition video!
.... pretty much every power station could be simplified to that level, with or without wheels lol. I mean, add the solar charger, 120v charger, fuses, wiring, switches, volt meters, inverter, inputs and outputs, lights, fans, ac adapters, etc... and yep --> Just a stationary battery on wheels.
@@TackleThat my point is exactly. This always existed but people will jump off the cliff for the false hype on name brand and even your homemade without a brand label
