@@JustinSchooler-f2j lmao they're coming buddy. Life is really kicking my ass right now working on my house and working towards getting a new shop haven't had time for anything. Really looking forward to working on that thing here coming up
@@SomeBassGuy1 I'm honestly not sure. I called the landfill they said it needs registered to my address. Obviously I have no title. Might just have to stash it for now. The last time I did this I was able to resell the boat to a guy who turned it into a duck boat lol. Maybe I should camo paint it and rig up a little outboard ha
Looking good, I'll be following this build. I found a StarCraft like yours locally I may pickup to pair with my Texas Maid, also been eyeballing an air boat. Keep it up, love the videos
What trans are you going with? I have an 89 cummins first gen that I'm using to repower my 91 burb. Using the dana 61 & 71 axles with 307 gears for a good freeway cruiser & 47RE trany. Prob switch to a K27 turbo... maybe compounds. Eventually it will get a common rail. What company makes the fiberglass hear shielding you spoke of & how does it come? I'm keeping my chevy AC box too... lizzard coating the firewall & bottom of the cab along with the AC box. Not sure I would encase to too of your exhaust... better to end the aluminum sheet so heat can escape faster, maybe hood or fender vents... Im going with 80s tramsam side vents.
Interesting setup! Always a few kinks to work out. Back in the early 80's, father in law ran across an 18 foot Slickcraft, with a 4 cylinder Chevy/Mercruiser setup, that didn't get freeze plugs pulled for winter, so got the boat/trailer for a song! Put a 455 Olds, with Barr Marine water jackets on it, and 9inch exhaust out the back. Mercruiser outdrive couldn't handle the 455 though. Got a salvaged Mercruiser Alpha One, from a Cigarette, than burned in a marina fire, but outfruve was in the water. Then it was game on, with the stailess cleaver prop! Was hard to launch, as it was so rear heavy, so had to jam styrofoam coffee cups in the exhaust, to keep water out of the manifolds when launching. Dangerously fun, on a smooth lake (had to wrap your arm around the steering wheel BEFORE opening up the secondarys)!! Never got a true number on top speed, but with a 27 pitch prop, you KNEW you were cookin'!! Just had to take the opportunity to share. Y'all be creful and have fun!
Ron I have a brand new, never used set of Hardin LS exhaust manifolds and other Hardin items to sell. I'm in Kawkawlin and it would be great to meet and show you the boat I've been building. The Hardin manifolds did not fit in my engine space so I had to go with log style manifolds.
@@marcinman9693 yes there's quite a few hulls I was looking at. Crestliner made some 15 and 16 ft boats that look like they would work great. I'd also like to do a 17-18 ft mod v like a bass tracker or similar
Big Motor, little boat No beam width, Don't get Cocky for Speed. Wear a Life Vest On ALL RUNS, Tied to Kill Switch. The unkown Happen Quickly, BE prepared NOW. Good Luck.....
@@Gruin it's been in the water for 4 years. It's a 66" beam and it's very stable at WOT. I only wear a life jacket running up shallow strong current rivers
any flat water WOT run videos? Like the series and content. I have an 18ft v hull like this. Going to copy the hanging on the mic from the windshield support. You're also inspiring my to get out my old car audio gear for a 2nd Chapter. PPI, HiFonics and Focal components just collecting dust...
Consider setting jet pump back so clean-out is behind transom. Make a race plate, which makes removing bowl easy. This may also help with the driver seat/helm position. A 4200 would be fun, but it's tall and long and will be $ in long run. Same with other motors. I would rather spend $ on AL ls for weight savings in transom. Power per dollar matters.
@@robertwetteroff9401 yes that's what I was planning. The clean out inside the boat is dumb I'm not doing that again. And like you said way easier to r&r the bowl for impeller and wear ring changes down the road
Those Corvette filter regulator work great when hooked to stock fuel pump its designed for. Dont talk crap if you don't know. I've used em on several vehicles. If you're using a non factory or jacked up pump don't use this regulator. Period.
@@disolejunk I used to use them all the time and I've had several of them fail. Not a serious regulator they're legitimately a POS and I'll never use one again. Doesn't cost that much more to buy a proper regulator
Inboard boat motors and car engines are different. Boat motors have more torque and water manifolds. If you tried to put a boat motor in a car you will have problems overheating.
thats not a gate valve so make sure its wide open , also consider the gps the motor actually requires . and maybe a thermostat. or heat exchanger. best wishes . mapbe a P C issue
I only ever seen two of them I was going to buy a pump with a what I think was a bushwacker but i couldn't find anything on it and it had a weird bracket for the trim ? Seemed easier to buy a new one if I ever get the transom replaced
Haha no I don't think so. Ol hips has been a great truck man. Daily drove it for ten years up until recently now it only gets used for work- towing trailers, hauling camper, hauling firewood
New subscriber here. I'm just glad I stumbled across ur channel. I'm really excited for more boat videos to come. Def would love to see alot more boat content. But other than that great work and dedication towards the channel. Ur doing an awesome job. So with that much love to ya from Maryland❤❤❤.
Make a race plate out of 1/4 aluminum and do away with transom housing. It's a little time-consuming but well worth in the long run. I was able to seam my race plates horizontally with a tongue and grove rabbit joint right at the water intake tube. I think the C impeller is going to be a negative but worth a try.
Hello, I just got my project boat running and it is modeled after yours. I started with a Starcraft holiday 22 and rebuilt everything. I did a 4.8 LS with a standalone ECU and custom stainless exhaust. In an effort to get the sound under control I copied wake board boats and made a type of fresh air exhaust. This wouldn't be ideal for shallow water, but certainly makes the sound more manageable. I am running a Berkeley 12JC with a A cut impeller that is probably a bit more aggressive than the little engine can handle for the weight of my boat. I am also dealing with the pourposing issue over 30 mph and am looking for your experience on how to get this issue resolved. I am going to start with a place diverter and see if that takes it out. trim tabs are also on the table. My issue is also enhanced due to the 30inch deep swim platform welded to the back and the 90lbs of kicker motor I carry on it. Overall my boat is close to a copy of yours and thank you for posting videos to illustrate the build. It has been extremely helpful on mine!
That's great news nice work! 👍👍 The trim tabs I'm using work well for the porpoising but they're really a temporary measure. Ultimately we will be tearing the boat back down to install a much thicker bottom. And at that point, I was going to add a ride plate. It's the proper way to tame porpoising on a jet and very simple- you just adjust the plate down until the boat no longer hops. I'm doing more and more challenging rivers and I definitely don't want flimsy trim tabs hanging off the stern. It's only a matter of time before one or both is damaged. Ride plate is very strong rigid with the stern and doubles as a pump guard sliding over obstacles 👍
Need a shoe and adjustable ride plate for the porpoise. Then adjust the ride plate to tune out the porpoise. You want ear ringing, try over the transom headers. Cool boat.
Yep we planned on a ride plate when the boat gets a new bottom maybe this upcoming winter 👍 trim tabs were just a temporary addition so I could throw a rooster for the time being 😊
I'm debating adding a ride plate on mine. The way I installed my intake is I machined the front down flat (round keel to flat conversion) to match the flat bottom of my hull. I left the back rounded and it hangs down a little and gets a good scoop of water. This leaves a 1/2" lip behind it where I can flush mount a ride plate without needing a shoe.
Thanks for posting these videos, always good info. I was debating trim tabs on mine, I have to keep the place diverter pointed down so it doesn't porpoise, like you said, no biggie but I wanna be able to throw rooster. I'm swapping my spun aluminum block for an iron block so the extra weight may even make it worse. Who knows we'll see.
@@roncook8566 hell ya, will do. I'm hopefully picking up my engine tomorrow, then I'll order tabs and whatnot. Gonna try those Bennet auto adjusters. Hopefully will be back on the water before the 4th
love that ,I would plate the frame box 4 bolt holes and have match on cross member 2 plate make the cross membe removeable,cut fire wall move it back 4 inches, hassle I know, nice work ,beef up frame st steer box dbl plate in back of box ,box in cross member , box section ,behind eng ,motor mount ,its a beauty Clark.
Hey I just ran across your videos!!! I herd you say that you was putting a flat bed on it and I was wondering if you might have a 8’ box that you might be willing to sell ?? I was wondering what kind of shape the box might be in also??I’ve been working on a 1981GMC K30!!! It was ordered in by a fire station in Iowa and was ordered as a cab and chassis for the fire chief to drive where ever he might need to go!! I’ve been looking for a pickup box 8’ long and with the square dual gas doors ?? one on each side!!! I would also like one with no rust in it or it could have some surface rust but no dents though!! Please let me no if you would be interested in sell one or no of someone that might have one??? I’m in southern Iowa and I am willing to travel to get one!!!
