Advanced Motorcycle Riding, Cycling, Photography and Wildlife. My interests are motorcycling and photography. I've been riding for 40+ years. I'm currently an IAM National Observer (23 years). I'm also the Chief Observer for Suffolk Advanced motorcyclists and train new Observers. My qualifications are: Motorcycle - IAM F1rst, IAM Masters (Distinction), ROSPA Gold (several years). Car - IAM F1rst (in a DCT).
Cheers Mike, down to earth review. I admire Kawasaki for opening up this area for bikes, (usually its Honda) obviously early days so no doubt lots of areas to improve on.
I have only just come across your channel . I already enjoying your videos very informa😮tive and helpful. You have a great way of explaining what is happening. Im looking into do some sort of advanced training course after ride 12:01 12:01
Hi Mike, regarding the third van. I'm looking to take my IAM test in the next month, Im not sure I would have waited for the van to reverse a short toot on the horn would have alerted him to my presence, and a pass next to near side should have been enough to pass safely. Do you think I would have passed my test if I had pass that van before it started reversing? he also knew you were there as he thanked you earlier. thanks fro this video
A toot and suitable position would probably also be fine. Maybe a discussion point in the debrief. At the time I felt stopping was the better option. Hope your test goes fine.
Hey! Im doing an educational video around Filtering/Lanesplitting around the world. Do you mind If I use a clip from this video? Full credit will be given! Ride Safe!
@@mikerobertsjust back from on road training with Simon Weir who helped me tremendously making my corners flow and not loop. Your video reinforced what he taught me .
Hello Mike...have just found your videos and enjoying them. Have tried to email you via the link on Suffolk Advanced Motorcyclists but it doesn't work. Are you on Messenger or similar?
Glad you are enjoying them. the email address on the SAM committee page is correct or there's a RU-vid specific one in the channel description/about on here.
Hi Mike, nice videos...I have a Ghost xl pro, and I noticed your footage gives a fair representation of your roadspeed...mine doesn't.. even at 60mph the playback looks as tho bike is travelling at 40ish, if that...I'd read that it's because the xl pro has a field of view max of 140°, is yours the same?....I believe that playback at fast forward is actually closer to real roadspeed, albeit faster.. ?? I'd really like to know if any other settings can effect this...Thanks
Hi Steve, I didn't realise the later models don't have such a wide view. I record at 170 FOV, full HD and 30 FPS. The frame rate can affect speed perception if you are using 60 or higher. I keep debating about getting a more modern camera. Decisions, decisions. 🤔
He did. That's me on the lead bike. This one gets asked a lot. Personally I find it much more comfortable and relaxing riding that way. For lots of town riding it means you avoid doing 'The Dance' (Hendon Shuffle) all the time. You can snick the bike out of gear and give your clutch hand a rest, and then easily select 1st gear to pull away. It does require the ability to really feather the front brake lever to avoid bouncing forks and come to a smooth controlled stop. Of course you need to be able to do BOTH methods, left or right, as sometimes the road conditions/layout may force you to use one or the other. My bike also has linked brakes that work front to back, but I do the same with conventional brake setups.
@@mikeroberts Sorry sir, I just saw your old posts about the same questions. 😎 I passed my test 3 months ago. My instructor and examiner always mentioned using the right foot just before stopping, checking the blind spot before overtaking or turning right or left, and checking both mirrors every time just before a change in speed limits on the road. That is why I always remind myself to turn my head to see mirrors and blind spots while riding. However, you don't seem to do or show those kinds of body actions on the road. I really don't know if all of those rules depend on the instructor. Sometimes I just want to say, "Let me ride however I want!"
@@aknaltoglu4986 You are taught to ride in a certain way as you start out in motorcycling that is designed to keep you safe while you have little on road experience. I'm now in my 48th year riding. Keep riding how you have been taught. Doing the right foot down needs very good control of the front brake, this will come with experience. If you watch this video and others, you'll see I do do the shoulder checks at critical times. Starting out you need to do these more regularly and as more of a set routine. Keep safe and enjoy your motorcycling building up your miles and on road riding experience..
As a first time hybrid bike, it does ''alright'' - it's essentially a toyota prius on two wheels, the first model of the prius came out in 1997 in japan, and evolved over the years to be better. i'm not saying the prius is a great car, but the technology involved in it has improved a lot. it's the same here, this bike is the forefather of many things to come, its not exciting, but it's doing something. Give it a year, 3 years, 5 years, and this type of bike will evolve into something that we can't yet imagine.
I have a Renault hybrid without a CVT gearbox and love the way it drives. We shouldn't need to wait 3 to 5 years. The tech is already refined, yet Kawasaki seem to have implemented a 20 year old implementation. The software exists to make this so much better.
It's a first attempt. I think there will be more. It removes range anxiety and allows full EV operation for a reasonable distance. The smoothness of EV delivery is addictive away from all the political and green claims.
Hybrid motorbikes are like hybrid cars, but to switch the battery mode to petrol mode you have to stop first before you can start the motorbike, almost the same as a car, the main advantages are fuel economy, as well as a full charge of the hybrid battery, emission free, and a smooth sound from the exhaust, no the only noise is the sound of the tires when they hit the asphalt
Sorry for the late reply. Have you some specific examples timestamp)? Regarding mirror checks/lifesavers you may like this video of mine where I explain you do have to move your head BUT you don't need great big flamboyant play acting. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ECXvXXHtDHg.html Remember Roadcraft says consider a lifesaver, not do one every time.
I am researching and looking into purchasing a Stelvio. I really appreciate the way you convey your experience on the bike. It helps alot. Awesome country ride as well.
About 22,00 you followed 5 vehicles into a NSL and had at least one car behind you. You then overtook the vehicle in front. At that time was it you intention to overtake all the other vehicles eventually one by one? As things were you didn't and stayed behind that vehicle for some time. So still well down the queue of traffic and so that overtake really made little or no difference to your original position. You became one up in the queue that's all. So no to little benefit in making the original overtake. I make the point that we all do that sometimes.
Yep, the plan was to pick them off one by one as the opportunity arises. Now the rest were tailgating (by both our definitions) so there were no gaps to do another overtake with a safe landing space. Several of the cars turned off, but not the one I had passed, so I then had a clear road ahead which I wouldn't have had if I hadn't made the first overtake. I didn't then zoom off (as I would if solo) as I was leading riders unknown to me and I don't want to encourage them into overtakes they may not normally do, just to keep up with me. Hope that makes sense.
@@mikeroberts Best laid plans of mice and men oft go astray. We have all been there . With intentions to overtake a number of vehicles if [ and only if ] the circumstances permit but eventually to be bogged down and unable to commit to them. However as you said you were lead on a group of others with unknown abilities so should you have considered such a multiple overtake. Perhaps not.?
So as the topbox blocks us from seeing the rider (other than his helmet), how is him wearing a hi-viz going to make any difference to someone following him?
Nice roads nice ride. However I only saw 20 mins of it. During that time your speed was not in question and your distance from others in 30 mph areas was very good giving plenty of distance between you and them.. However when out on NSL roads although your speed was not a concern you appeared sometimes to get too close to the vehicle in front of you. So close that you were no longer giving the safe 2 second distances as recommended in the H.C or the one metre per one mph. recommendation by the DVSA. That said it looked safe enough but with so little distance given at times one might have had to avoid a dangerous situation that can happen when tailgating.
@@mikeroberts Ok, IT was a good and refreshing video. That said it was good to see a rider not riding to the speed limit all of the time as many do on their videos. and thus not feeling or showing the need or requirement to make faster progress and to overtake everything in sight. By slowing just a little and keeping up with traffic we can all benefit from less stress and the increased potential danger of committing to overtakes but are still being able to make good safe progress. The positioning behind other vehicles appears was very good in 30 mph areas but very much closer when in a different speed limit area.. The way I judge whether or not one is too close is first accepting a minimum of the 2 second rule and the recommendations of the H.C stopping distances [ S 126 ] or alternatively those distances advised by the DVSA. Then I look at the information given to me by the bikes speedometer or the road itself. I am aware of the distance between hazard lines of being some 30 ft and count back. Also lamp standards are basically some 40 metres apart. which is approx. 120ft. the safe stopping distance at 40 mph. Finally the telegraph or power line posts are generally some 60 metres apart and that relates to some 180 ft in distance apart and is a safe stopping distance at 50 mph [ being 175 ft H.C. or 50 metres by the DVSA] and possibly one at 60 mph the NSL on some country roads [ 60 metres, DVSA]
@@mikeroberts That begs the question as to how one determines what is a safe stopping distance and or if one is actually Tailgating. Of either following or closing in on a vehicle in front and or of keeping the recommended safe stopping distances at all times as shown/ described by the DVSA or the H.C. or the Police Roadcraft Manual .
I can confirm you do indeed always ride to the system, always something to learn when following you When its time for a new bike maybe a test ride on a BMW would be appropriate😁
A lot going on here in this clip. Rider started down the left only lane (seemed safe to do so) but could consider waiting behind the white Merc?? Use of horn after lane hopper had started to pull out, correct use of horn but could lead to a confontation when rider pulled up next to the offender. Also rider had spotted car moveing out and reacted accordingly so why use horn?
"Maintain lane 2" early in the video on the dual carriageway section. To be fair, if there is nothing behind me, I do exactly that. But as I understand Highway Code 264, "Keep in the left lane unless overtaking." So you should pull in regardless, especially if under test conditions? Is this the case? Am I misunderstanding the Highway Code?
Thanks for the comment/question. I tend to use a rule of thumb of around 10 seconds. if I'm not passing anything by then, I return to lane 1. But I do stretch that at times if there are vehicles I am gaining on. What I don't do is stay out if there's nothing ahead.
Thanks. Screen choice is always a very personal thing. I hate to look through a screen, and having the exact height for your own torso/head height is critical to avoid buffeting.
Yes I have. I rode it last year and did enjoy it. I found the one I rode to be 'hunting' all the time at a constant throttle setting, but I've spoken to others and they didn't experience that. I'd have to have another ride and make sure the settings were all correct ... though the V100 and Stelvio would be my preferred choice in the future.
After over 5000 miles on my Mandello V100S perhaps I can fill in a few gaps. The quick shifter works well in all gears on the way up and the same smooth performance does as far as third but for second or first use the clutch. I found the gearbox a bit notchy to start but as I put miles on the bike this smoothed out considerably. The adaptive aero works at speed to keep the rain off the top of your legs at speeds of 60-70 MPH…… the only problem is as you slow the aero stops working as efficiently and you get wet. The active suspension is better than superb with the ability to tune the bike to your riding style in all four modes. On this test ( assuming factory settings ) the bike was ridden in tour mode, this is great for motorway cruising or very relaxed riding, once off the motorways my usual option is Road. This gives a firmer ride and slightly more aggressive throttle response, Sport mode is even more aggressive, use this mode with care as it encourages more speed than you think you are wanting to use. The bike behaves impeccably in all suspension modes as I found on a tour of the Spanish side of the Pyrenees, get into sport mode on those twisty mountain roads and you will ground the ( optional ) centre stand. The multi-media package is substantial with huge amounts of data available via the Moto Guzzi app, this app also the hub of the navigation system using the phones GPS. The navigation app is power hungry so a phone docking area and USB charger are provided under the rear seat, navigation commands are presented on the control display and voice commands via Bluetooth to your helmet. My only real gripe is the truly dreadful owners manual that is poorly presented and confusing with an index that is worse than useless. It took a considerable amount of time and frustration for both myself and my (superb M-G ) dealer to get the whole multi-media package running properly. In my view M-G should produce a series of RU-vid instructions to show owners how to get this package running……. This would save the new owners and the M-G dealers a whole heap of problems.
Thanks for the extra info. I thought I'd put the bike in road mode, as often on demo bikes the settings have been played around with by the previous rider. What made you think it was in tour (I can't see the TFT detail)? Has your bike's first gear selection got better with miles? The huge clunk and lurch forward really overshadowed the rest of the excellent characteristics for me.
@@mikeroberts The standard settings don’t put the aerodynamic wings out in Road mode, they are just for rain and tour modes, hence my assumption you had tour mode selected. If someone had been deep into the menus this could have been changed. The gear box gets a lot better with miles on it, there is still a bit of a clunk as the bike is put into first gear but it does not leap forward , I don’t remember it being as bad as you reported even when new and the bike I did a test ride on was OK as well so perhaps the clutch on the test bike was in need of some adjustment??
I'm glad someone else sees the first gear bang is bad... "character" my ass... now where's me left nut? 18:20 wot no trail braking? 😉 😅 19:30 wot no offsiding, showing how much more superior you are to normal people? 😮
Thanks. I did video my ride on the Tracer 900 GT. I need to review the footage and see what learning points are in there along with my riding impressions.
I can understand why some dealerships may choose to provide "guided test rides" BUT I suspect not all potential customers appreciate being caused to be speed compliant. I am absolutely NOT advocating exceeding max speed limits BUT am aware some folk like to better sample the performance of test ridden bikes. Not in any way criticising your riding btw.😉
I get that. I was compelled to be ‘guided’ on my test ride of a big Triumph Tiger some years ago from a large dealer (not dedicated Triumph). The sales person appeared in full leathers and told me she would be on the then fairly new Speed Triple. I did as requested and followed her and before long we were on her test route. I assessed her initially as a competent rider. When she exceeded the legal limit on the B road I rolled off the throttle at 70 and eased back to 65. She disappeared at a speed I’d estimate at 90+. This happened several times and on the return route on a dual carriageway I settled at 75- 80. As we approached the 50 limit a a qtr mile from a roundabout she passed me about 40 above, before braking hard. Back at the dealers I was asked by another lady sales person about my thoughts on the test bike and then as an aside casually mentioned that I chose not to keep up with their sales person, who although handling the speed triple with confidence, I considered injudicious, and added that there was a risk that an ‘alpha male’ type rider might have felt compelled to keep up. She was neutral in her response. I told her I liked the test bike very much and would think about it, then reiterated that I was merely pointing out my concern and mentioned that I only offered my thoughts as something for her to consider. As I left I mentioned that I was not a killjoy although I was the deputy head of the Hampshire Constabulary Traffic Division and introducing “Bikesafe” assessed rides and asked if she’d think about supporting us. I watched the colour drain from her face. I left my card.
Thanks for the feedback. These demo days help promote the dealership and my local IAM Group. Obviously the dealer does let customers do regular demos at other times.
Imo you sometimes appear to be in the close following position (1 sec) before you need to be and "hanging" around rather than anticipating when to move up. I personally hate the close following position unless absolutely necessary as it too close for my comfort and limits vision as per the van on 10. Just my opinion.
"Him", the rider in front is me. 😁Have you some specific examples timestamp)? Regarding mirror checks/lifesavers you may like this video of mine where I explain you do have to move your head BUT you don't need great big flamboyant play acting. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ECXvXXHtDHg.html
Yes I thought the same Mike, oh he’s decided to stay put where he was. I’d like to think that he’d remember just driving past you, but I’m sure after covid everyone seems to be less courteous, more aggressive and driving at a generally lower level. Maybe I’m just getting old and cantankerous.
OK, I am 2 minutes in, you have just got to the traffic lights and stopped, right foot down. I have been berated for this by my tutors, all three of them, and told I need to be on the back brake so if shunted from the rear you can stay on the bike. I would appreciate thoughts please, because I am now conflicted.
Ahh, that old chestnut again! Thanks for the question, Simon. I don't know what advanced course you are doing, but they are all based on Roadcraft and it makes no stipulation of which foot to stop with. I personally, as you have seen, favour right foot down as it is much more relaxing in stop start traffic. In fact some Police areas teach this way. If you look in Roadcraft it says "When the bike is stationary you should be able either to place both feet on the ground or balance with one foot while the other works a control." and "You need to be able to slow down or stop smoothly and with your machine fully under control". I've also quoted the IAM Course book for you "Advanced riders must be able to: Bring their machine to a controlled stop with the appropriate foot to the floor. In the last stages of stopping, advanced riders must decide which foot to use to balance the machine when they become stationary. There are perceived advantages when the machine is stationary to putting either foot down or even if appropriate, both feet at the same time. It may be advantageous in the event of a collision to have control of the rear brake to retain steering control. However, retaining control of the rear brake necessitates swapping feet in order to either select neutral or engage a gear to move off. At times it is easier to give up control of the rear brake in order to be able to select gears. The ability to use either foot or both feet, is advantageous if road conditions dictate a change from your normal action. The important outcome is that the machine comes to a controlled stop and is balanced effectively." So you can see, like so many things "It depends". Is it safe, smooth and under full control? Job done. Hope that helps.
@@mikeroberts Thank you. At least I have a 'tutored' retort when told I must use the right foot to cover the brake. Like you, I have always snicked into neutral if having to wait for traffic or light signals to change, it saves the clutch and means you are not sat there squeezing a heavy clutch for ages while you wait (1982 or 1988 clutch is not as light as a modern, hydraulic one, I bet!)
The duck feet are only a problem if you don't move them when leaning significantly. As for left foot down, what's the issue? Either foot down is ok as long as it is controlled and safe.
