Hell yeeeuh buddy that thing also slaps! Your channel along with a few others almost had me pulling the trigger on a Poizd but I decided to save it for after I get my first custom build dialed in. Me and my kids are always watching RU-vid videos and play a game “real or rc?” Cuz man sometimes the scale and camera angles really fool you. Pretty soon we’re gonna have to play 1/10 or mini? lol. Anyways I did a similar thing to you, started building a little backyard course and realized quickly that a 1/10 would feel too big, so I got a Mazz Cheatcode V3 and some Mofo axles, etc. After seeing what my son’s Trx 4m could do with just brass wheels I know this thing will probably pull some crazy lines like the big trucks
Nice looking rig! I wish Injora would make the Cling On's in a smaller size, like 57mm or there abouts. 70mm is just huge on a 1/24 truck, even a big on an 1/18.
Hola tengo unos 60 coches nuevos x rayas teal mágico hiper kiosco hsp 50 carcasas sin xtrenar y ruedas espuma 400 gordas los.. luego en 1.8 otras 100 sin usar y usadas arena y calle 50 mandos de cristal y 50 de receptor 9 mesa de arranque una barbarie.. 2021.me gasté 50.000.euros lo dejo al 25 % de su precio.o hacer un mocho..hay 2 savange hpi marcha atrás otro es 1.4 cem.es para verlo 50 chispo cargadores baterías..
Fwiw, I'm using dravtech offset caps now. I'm also testing some new ones from aliexpress that have a different "leak free" o-ring section. They are working great!
I actually checked out your channel to see the link between RC cars and spin when I stumbled across this video - and it all made sense! Not that I'd ever look a gift horse in the mouth, but now I'm extra happy to have you 😊
My first build can be seen in some of my earlier crawler videos. It's based on an element builders kit using a YFGRC chassis using lots of 3d printed parts. It is a very capable truck, but it was a budget build. The first thing that turned me on to the poizd chassis was the breakeven. Turns out, once it's dialed in, it's freaking awesome,
Hey Danny, I'm Jeff, and recently picked up a used d819rs, and I just realized how much slop is in the front end, especially the steering knuckles and c hubs seem to rock foreword and and back excessively. Could you tell me which parts I need to tighten the front end back up? Love your videos, slowly trying to watch them all. Thanks again, Jeff
Ok thanks again. I know you are the man when it comes to these buggies, so I'll just leave it be for now. Are you still running your d819rs? Or have you moved to the newer d8 yet?
This helped me know what parts to replace. Also, the tug buddy lp gearset is almost identical and works without any issues provided you replace all the gears.
Hey Danny, my name is Jeff, and I just picked up what I believe is a d819rs(although the body just says d819). I just noticed the front right drive shaft is slightly bent. Both fronts say 91.5. I was just wondering if you knew of any aftermarket that aren't $84.
Hello my friend I have been watching your videos an that pozs chassis is the best I have seen at pulling lines but in this video you are using the yfgxfxf chassis are you still got it or using it because I have been saving an getting my parts together an I have everything but now I am getting ready to build my first lcg an I am trying to find me a chassis that someone is not using anymore because I just want something to get out an crawler around on these rocks around this nursing home I got hurt about 4 years ago and I am in a wheelchair now an I have a lot of great places to go to were I can go to but when it comes to chassis I get lost because there's so many if you or anyone you know has one an could help me along in the hobby here is my address 2966 slate Creek road Grundy Virginia 24614 i thank you for sharing your videos an all the great information an showing me alot that i have really learned an one day I want to build one like your poz rig thank you an hope i am not bothering you in anyway thank you again
Hello, I have the same kit for my 94 coupe. I was wondering how many Oz of Freon you put in? I also am installing this into a car that never had a/c from the factory. The compressor I am using is brand new prefilled with OE oil, do I still have to add oil to the system when charging? If so what oil did you use and how much did you put in? Thanks.
@LawMasterTimmy Funny, you ask that when you did. An oem setup calls for 16-19oz of 132a. I started off with 19oz, thinking it would be somewhere on the higher side. It worked fine for a while, then started cycling on and off. I added 3.5oz, and pressures got to 47 low and 235 high. It got cooler and was working great till yesterday. On my way home, it started cycling again. It was 98deg outside, so I gotta think pressure was too high. Back to the drawing board.
As a local spec slash racer, not gonna lie, this is NOT what you should be doing to your tires. Sanding them down not only wastes a ton of the tread but also removes a lot of the burs that give traction. Unless you're traction rolling a lot, DO NOT do this to your tires. The OP may have had luck with this on his track surface, but this is definitely not something to do as "tire prep" in a general sense.
Congrats on getting the AC done! Love the format of the video talking about all the trial and errors/mistakes made along the journey. One question I have is, how did you calculate to put in 19oz of Freon? Was this by different pressure? or just high end of the OEM specs?
How does it compare to the stock one?! I mean did the stock cools only when driving and now compare to the DC creation one is it much cooler at idle and such?! I wish there is such thing being too cold now that I have to turn the dial down inside the car lol. I wish there was also a way to use a custom thermometer thing that keeps it from freezing the evaporator and core where we can adjust how colder we want before the sensor kicks in and shut the compressor off so it doesn't freeze ice. This would help so much
The first time my old servo quit, it was just a fluke I guess. On the gear breaks, it was always after a pretty good fall, but ive never had any other servo do that. And yes. I always print my body mounts and use magnets.
Ive been impressed with the nsdrc servos I have used. The Rs1 has been incredible. I grabbed some of the blue 700s for future replacement when hitecs I have die. The customer service was incredible the one time I had to address an issue as well.
It is a "voltage limiting diode." They are sold on NSDRC's website for $4. On some AM32 drone based esc's, such as the Rhino 40amp esc I'm using, they can sometimes produce voltage spikes that can damage the servo. The diode prevents the spike from going above 17v at the servo.
