ABS/brake light issues are almost always a module solder cracking internally or a faulty chassis ground. Ground is a free and easy check. I wanna say its a wire under the passenger side door bolted on the outside of the frame near a body mount. Take the bolt out, buff the frame and washers, retighten, then paint over. If that doesnt work, its either a module or wheel speed sensor. Soeed sensor is easy to check. Pull the code for free at a local parts store and if you have a wheel speed sensor code, replace that one. If its a relay or power related code, likely the module.
Expando? What is this? I am re assembling a 100+ year old ARCO pancake boiler and it has six tapered press nipples to squeeze back together to make it water tight again. Does this Expando sealant have any lubricating 6:57 properties to help the nipples to slide together with less friction! Love this video!
Videos are better than pictures. I was assuming that the weight of the upper step would squish out of the lower since it doesn't have a top cap. Still would have liked to see it without video cuts
EZ Lube style spindles are notorious for blowing out the rear seal. A recent video by the Trailer Smith has great explanation of the EZ Lube problems, and suggest treat them like a conventional spindle and pack the bearings the old school way. And don't top off more grease with EZ Lube - just back off the retaining nut, clean and relube the old school way.
I have an 08 with the 6.0. Mine will absolutely not do that. My fifth wheel is only 10,000 and any form of grade it just makes noise and falls on its face hard. I end up dropping from 65 down to 30 in the first quarter mile and finish the next two miles getting passed by everything. Im at 282,000 now and when it dies it will be my first and last GM. If anyone has any ideas for stuff that can be done Ive been searching for years. Makes me miss the 460 V8 Ford it replaced.
With all due respects, this is the blind teaching the blind, " Can't be all that much to it .... " (confused thinking as he goes). What about knowing what you are doing, practicing before making a video to instruct others ? I don't think that's an unreasonable criticism.
At 3:33 you did catch yourself (a minute later) and relalized the crown bolt comes off counterclockwise. Before your realized that you were pulling UP on the bar (the wrong way) but pulling up is not as easy as pushing down. So you were in the best position (in the beginning) to push Down from the 9 O'clock position on the bar to turn the nut counterclockwise to loosen it. By pushing, you simply put your whole body into the torque, as you push down your weight is transferred from the ground to the bar. Even if you pushed so hard, you could lift yourself from the ground to get the maximum torque your body weight can deliver. By pulling up, most people don't have the upper arm strength to apply that same amount of torque. So "leaning" into the lever is easier on your body.
Working at a nuke plant and needed to see what a curved tip was because I'm a straight G on the torch but never heard of washing out a weld so thank you I got one more thing I'll be awesome at.
Just got mine but a couple of hoses were disconnected. Not sure where the hoses hook up. The hose seems to be two hoses together it is long. Can anyone help me with that?
I am planning on doing the same to my bachkoe tractor attachement. Was watching your video to try to find out how you 8nstalled your hydraulic circuit between pump hydraulic tank and the bachkoe itself. But I like your video . Did you ever made a follow up video to see how good it work?
I am replacing the output seal on my Howse 500C (5 ft) and I could not seat the oil seal that Howse sent me, I boogered it up and am waiting on another one. My gasket was paper and the Howse rep told me to just use gasket in a tube stuff. I am putting anti seize sealant on my threads and spline. Had use a gear puller to get the stump jumper off and air gun on the castle nuts. Thanks for making your video.
Well Working Man you had me worried there buddy, I didn't see the castle nut on the spindle, all I saw was you leaning over in front of it a few times and I knew what was about to happen. Thank the Lord you had the nut in place! I'm doing the same job right now on my cutter! God Bless and Thanks for the laugh!🤣🙋♂️
Your tractor has a pressure compensating pump with hi flow remote not sure why you’d go to a pto gear pump we’re you’ll only be able to open one spool at a time ? Please let us know how it works
I have a John Deere 5303 with 2 remotes and I bought a backhoe thinking I could use my remotes but there was no hose for backflow so I plumbed a hose into my rear end but when I used it my brakes pedal was hard while using backhoe and I didn't think it should be like that so will it harm my tractor to use it like that
That flame was way off the mark. I have one of these torches. Check you didn't leave your button in the on position from when you was cutting. Watch the instructional videos and they do show clearly how to operate this hand piece. (Henrob DCH 2000) or later called the ( Cobra DCH 2000). Its an Aussie invention.
I have a ford 1720 and I bought a used backhoe at auction real cheap but it was designed for a quick attachment on a Kubota, I managed to get it all welded so I can pick it up with my 3 pt hitch but everytime I wanted to use it I would have to disconnect my front loader bucket's hydraulic lines and connect them to the back hoe. I think this maybe my solution, I'm not sure if there is any other way to use the hydraulic pump that is already built into the tractor. If it was as simple as putting a diverter in there and manually switching it to the rear everytime I wanted to use the backhoe that would be okay but I'm thinking this is the easier option.
