Apparently those bearings are supposed to be packed in grease. The outer seal keeps axle oil out of the bearing cavity. I'm getting ready to do mine and I've been investigating, because that outer seal is something I've never seen before.
yes, you are correct. I'll need to get in and correct that. i found it in the powertrain body and frame book PG. 139. didn't think about that at the time. it was too cold! check out this exploded diagram which shows that weird outer seal: shop.midwestmilitary.com/product/m37-rear-axle-exploded-view/
That looks like a valiant brake pedal . I’d run Lucas ⛽️ additive 24/7 it will keep your tank clean fuel lines carb and valves and clean the top rings on the pistons . Mopar old school for life 👍🏻🇦🇺✌️.
Had to stop watching quickly reaper. As an old school mechanic (very old) I can't stand watching a single carb rebuild using a power tool? Seriously not cool. Carter AFB is a class & classic carb. Easy disassembly, etc. Why disrespect the process so badly?
you do realize that actually prevents the bolts from stripping, right? much like in a motorcycle its easy to strip carburetor or case bolts when its steel into aluminum. they're very soft, and the impact driver loosens them up much easier than straight twisting until the bolt head strips. seriously cool!😉
on the back i used 2" Cherokee lift helper springs. on the front i used aluminum pucks for a supposed 3" lift, but it only brought it up an inch or so. the front springs are getting changed to Javelin springs soon for a better lift to bring the front up and get rid of my saggy springs.
Rumor is that when AMC was working with VW on procuring 4-cylinder engines for the Gremlin, they were introduced to the Audi Quattro racing development in Germany (before Audi began selling its AWD models). AMC beat Audi to the US market with a 4WD wagon. The 4WD Eagles weren't cheap when they came out. I noticed a lot of parents of well-to-do kids in my high school drove Eagles in the early 80s.
A friend of mine helped develop them. he might know. he said they were designing them to compete directly with Subaru and the Brat, etc.. i hadn't head the Audi angle. Thats interesting! i wish AMC had made better financial decisions, like keeping Jeep...
WOW! I nearly lost my forklift in a similar situation. Not a sink hole, but quick sand. Those little suckers are heavy, took the wheel loader to get it out.
I bought a nice '53 Dodge Regent four door, a couple months ago... I guess I got my buddy a little jealous... As he's looking at a nice '48 Dodge four door today... Unsure of the actual model yet... Enjoyed watching your clip, as I'm a retired machinist... Best regards from the mountains of central California ...
Sweet ! ... I've always got a tickle out of the way those two half's of the hood(s) open up from the sides 😁 BTW, two months ago, I bought a nice looking 1953 Dodge Regent four door, with the 230-6 flathead, and three speed manual... Firestone wide whitewalls... Nearly flawless exterior and interior... Four wing vents, and the pop up front vent... Traded a Jeep CJ with a bad transfer case, for this classic... Best regards from the mountains of central California... 🤗 ...
watch out for those butterfly hoods! they bite. this one slapped me in the back of the head and slammed my teeth into the fender. i thought it knocked my teeth out!
Did you change out your steering rod that goes to the gearbox? I have one with the flat head v6, thinking about offing that dookie ball engine, v8ing the cat like you did.
i haven't yet....but i do have the power steering pump for it. i'd just need the Borgeson or Saginaw box for the steering and i'd have to re-engineer the steering linkage to work with it. it's been difficult to work around the original box, and it really limited my options for engine placement.
Why anyone would crush something as beautiful and rare as this AMC Eagle only shows how our society has been so broken that anything that isn't new is viewed as useless. Glad to see someone wanted to save this amazing car.
Excellent video! My neighbor’s lawn guy sent a rock that shattered my door window so he picked up the $325 cost. The mobile tech that came out did not re-attach the middle rubber piece enclosed in metal that sits in between the 2 regulator brackets. He didn’t think it had a purpose. Do you agree? I’m not happy with the aftermarket window matching the OEM tint either; it’s lighter. The China made window is made to fit other cars and he ordered it with attached regulator brackets he could just bolt on to save time. I’m wishing I had insisted on an OEM replacement. Where did you get your replacement window? The shop I was considering was gonna look for a scrap yard window.
i think the rubber piece that slips on is a dampener or a bump stop. its definitely there for a reason. i bought the window on ebay i think. i was nervous about aftermarket china crap too, but this one worked out ok and matched perfectly. a year later its still in good shape
no problem. i'm glad they worked out. i'm an aerospace propulsion technician on the KC135R Stratotanker. i.e. engine mech. maybe we'll cross paths at some point :)
this is my personal '46 with he suicide doors.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8c7c3vsstEU.htmlsi=VV2zm9Xxd_7R2mBN i got it on trade, in pieces with no engine or transmission. it was in a field and the horses were walking on the fenders which were buried in snow. apparently it had been restored at some point, but must've had an engine failure and got literally put out to pasture
We had an 82 4x4 station wagon, red growing up. It only had an AM radio and the most interesting interior. That thing ran like a champ. We took it everywhere. I would kill to have that car still. Idk what happened to it either.
@@marcchaffee7751 it isnt factory height. there were three factory spring heights, and add 40 years of sag and here we are. lets just say its much taller than when i got it!
Hello, I am looking for help please I have a 1993 Jeep Cherokee XJ it will crank and it will eventually start but the only way I can get it started is to put the key in the on position and then I have to wait either five minutes or 20 minutes Until I hear a tick tick tick tick tick tick at the fuse box under the hood near the battery then you hear the fuel pump prime then and only then will it start. Also, the colder it is outside the longer this process takes any help would be greatly appreciated.
have you tested your fuel pump output at the rail? sounds like a weak fuel pump. they can put out the correct pressure, but still not put out the right GPH of fuel. i would also try swapping fuel pump relays with a known good one to see if the relay is at fault
@@ReaperRestorations i’ve changed the fuel pump relay and the same thing happens. Normally you would just turn the key on and then that would automatically prime the pump in a functioning vehicle but this one doesn’t do that it Hass to go through that process that I mentioned earlier.? And when it does start, it runs fine. I could turn it off for maybe four seconds and turn key on and it will start again. I can do that all day, but if I turn it off and walk away for a minute, then I have to go through that lengthy process to get it to start
@@ReaperRestorations you know when you turn the key the check engine light comes on but turns off almost immediately, this is the final step that I have to wait for in the process. The tick,tick,tick at the fuse box then the pump primes , then the check engine light comes on and goes away , then I can start it
have you tried reading the codes through the check engine light by turning the key forward three times? it might give you an idea of where to start. it sounds like something is either got an open circuit or short circuit. it could be a computer issue too (but i doubt it). you might also want to check the ASD relay to ensure its not doing something wacky. it can shut off the fuel pump and spark too. it will be next to the starter relay. the clicking isn't normal and those relays should stay latched with the key on. i would also check the wiring going to the fuel pump. ensure you've got a good ground check it when the key is first turned on as it should be priming right away and should have power. (if after a few tries its not priming anymore thats normal because the system is pressurized) I had an 88 Cherokee that was doing weird stuff like that and what I found was horrifying. The wiring harness at the headlight switch had melted together into one big mass 1" thick and it was clicking relays, turning the fuel pump on and off, etc with the key off. it was getting power when it shouldn't. i ended up rewiring the entire thing and it ran fine afterwards@@kodiak7438
@@ReaperRestorations hello my jeep doesn’t have a digital display so I can’t check codes like that. I have replaced the ASD relay but no change. Someone else suggested I take the top of the relay to see what it is doing when I try to start it . I will check what you said about the ground for the pump. Funny you mention the lights , my high beams do not work and in the past I had some melting at the plugs and I think if I remember correctly a few near my shin had a melted fuse . I should look into why I have no high beams, thank you for your continued help.
Had a 82 Eagle wagon that thing was awesome in the snow never got stuck. Was able to push snow until it ran out of power and never spun a wheel. The only downside was the Chrysler transmission kept failing.
you probably had a vacuum leak. the transmissions were a modified 727. they were great until you developed a vacuum leak. it basically put it into two and four wheel drive at the same time( from what i recall) and screwed the transmission! they fixed that for the '84 model year and also made it so you didn't have to be moving to get the 4 wheel drive to hook up
yep, the 904 is a 727 variant. AMC modified for the eagle. the problem was in the vacuum system, not the transmission itself. there was a TSB on it. they also used another variant, the 998 @@Outindacold
theres a TSM you can download here: forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=42544.0 theres a switch on the dash on the left. the earlier models had a pin under the switch you had to pull to put it into 4x4 and the car had to roll forward a bit to engage it. later models you can just switch it in, theres no pin to pull. if you dont have vacuum to the switch on the dash or the transfer case then it wont actuate the CAD, or the transfer case wont shift into 4wd. i'm going to be putting an NP229 into mine. its virtually the same case, but with 4 LOW. these cars do amazingly well off road for only having 4 high
I got the same pump that appears to have the same issue. I was wondering why it was leaking. I think I let the filter stay too dirty for too long. Been working for the past five years like this with the blow-by.
... Not comparing apples to oranges ... But I just bought a similar looking AMC ... A '73 Sportabout Gucci X ... Six cylinder, tilt steering, sport wheel, roof rack, fancy interior, and no dents nor rust ... Running, driving, etc 🇺🇸
i took the headliner from one to replace the one in my eagle. unfortunately my friend sold his yard and they crushed it and all the classics in there including a complete '61 Chrysler Imperial! I probably have the Sportabout emblem in my collection though!
Great video, what size tire are you running? We have a few Eagles still floating around here in Minnesota, one of them is in completely mint condition, but he still drives it all year long. Im hoping to see a "For Sale" sign on it one day so I can snatch it up.😁
215 /75 /R15 to my recollection. she's about to get an NP229 transfer case and i'm planning to put Cherokee MPFI on it as soon as i can find an intake manifold and a few other parts
yeah, no kidding. its so hard on our cars. i coated everything with chassis saver underneath, but i still need to do a bunch more work to protect it. luckily mine has no rot through except one spot where the factory drilled a hole. pretty quick and easy fix though
A friend had a '48 club coupe in high school , it was pretty cool . I have a '50 now , w/ a rebuilt flat head but I broke the camshaft w/ ether , it's been sitting for a long time .
it'd be great to get that going again! especially being a coupe. if i come across a cam i'll let you know. my friends yard just closed down and they crushed all the classics in there. lots of complete cars that would've been restorable. i got my 265 spitfire for my '41 Dodge WC12 there.
Thanks for the thought (about the cam). I've always loved cars 'since I started helping my Dad work on his stuff back in the'60's. It was great ,he would say things like:Why are you shining the light there when I'm working here ? Or : If don't hold that light over here l'm gonna' break it over your head . Ahh the good 'ol days . Take care .@@ReaperRestorations
Back in the 90's I had the sporty 2 door, I think it was called an SX4 and I had a 4 door. Really liked 'em both. They were so different from anything GM, Ford, or Mopar had back then. I really like the color of yours. Mine were both dark blue. I've been daily driving an '01 Cherokee Sport with 194,xxx miles for the last 3 years. Still going strong.
Good you put a MOPAR motor back in 👍🏻you have either a 904 or 727 T/ Flight She be a great MOPAR. You have to connect the kick down rod to the carb correctly or you will destroy your auto . 👍🏻💯🇦🇺⛽️.
none of it is connected at the moment! a lot of the vacuum hoses are simply plugged as well, but i will be putting the vacuum switches, etc.back in so the trans operates correctly. I am still trying to figure out how i'm going to modify the linkage to the column shifter and get the firewall fabbed up. but, i got a driveline in it! i dont dare start it again until those things are sorted
