The little tip about the torx screw saved me a lot of frustration, couldn’t figure out what was holding it up figured there was a bolt further back that I couldn’t feel
Thank you so much for your videos. I have a 2008 Tribeca . Helps a lot of for maintenance, especially having my transmission drain and fill right now and new filter
Thank you sir for your instructional video. It was very helpful. May I ask about the exact replacement that you bought and installed. I want to make sure I get the right converter when I do the replacement on a 2005 Chevy classic, with the 2.2 l 4 cylinder engine.
Ive bled 3xon an incline, more of incline, and just now level. Usinga no spillfunnel and heater running and cracking bleeder valve on thermostat repeatedly. On way home from work it got hotter than it ever has. This is some crap. Idont understand why its havingso many problems. It has to be air in systen because it goes from 250 down to 220
HOW THE ACTUAL FUCK DO YOU ADD TRANSMISSION FLUID TO THAT?!? I have a 2004 srx and the message on the DIC keeps telling me it’s time to change the transmission oil! How TF am I supposed to put the new transmission fluid into that?!?
The fuck you do bro there is a plug on the side of the transmission pull it out and buy weed sprayer pump from home depot and put transmission fluid in it and put the hose in where the plug goes and pump it out into it
Abdel is right - but there is a procedure to follow when you fill and check the levels. Has to be level, at operating temperature, et cetera, to check it.
I've got the old 1800 version. The designers must be effing sadists to inflict this system on their customers. I've replaced a perfectly good heater matrix and left it exposed inside the vehicle so that when l get the wheels a couple of feet off the ground l can then tip the matrix backwards to let the air escape. The local garage told me that they used to lift up these motors to 45 degrees to get the air out whilst revving the bollx off them. I will let you know how I get on. 😅
thanks for giving the part number the Dorman 902-714 fits exactly on the pipe its a AUDI piece chrysler doesn't have anymore the new replacement part from chrysler is too short we really need the quick connect original part number is 6819396AA but they don't sell the quick connect i used it to repair my car and its working get it from Amazon for 22$ thank you for the references
Broken Variable valve sensor or variable valve solenoid gasket broken ( two gaskets inside the solenoid) also I just bought this after market plug it’s like a hard rubber and I think it sealed nice maybe try that first and make sure when you remove anything with a gasket to replace the gasket as they are usually one time use
Remove kick panel, unplug connectors on pedal assembly, detach all connector push clips, remove metal box and bracket in front of pedal assembly (gave me more room), disconnect steering shaft at the TOP section (can be slid down easily by hand), remove pedal assembly, remove blower motor Removing that metal square box, it's bracket, and disconnecting that top end of the shaft, will make the job a lot easier
I'm no engineer but I'm pretty sure that thinner than olive oil 0w20 has alot to do with oil consumption and various other oil related failures on most vehicles that use it. Switch to a quality 5w30, it'll barely lower fuel mileage and it actually sticks to stuff when hot.
Will the lights still work in this situation, I'm currently going to look at a Camry that I'm going to purchase 2010 the person told me they tried to jump the car and ever since then it hasn't started they did say that they had the headlights working a bit they also said they put a different battery in it and it still wouldn't start
Ah. The shields. There’s 2- one housing the transfer case, and one behind the transfer case. On the driver side, you don’t need to pop any joints. This video was my answer- do I remove the shields, or do I remove the ball joints..
Currently dealing with this . Brand new brake job from a shop and making terrible noises . I have been a pro mechanic and autobody man all of my life and never had this problem with any cars til this Toyota Camry !! Thankyou for the video
Two years ago my '16 corolla cvt was starting to run poorly at 90k . Sticking at high rpm while on highway . Would have to pull over , put into P and sometimes shut off the car ! I bought 2 gallons of FE fluid from Toyota. $200 !!!! It took two attempts to get enough fluid out . Dropping the pan and changing cvt filter results in nearly 4 qts drained versus less than two quarts without dropping pan . Two years later the car runs smooth at 118k . I have no doubt changing this fluid breathed a few years of life into that cvt ! When first changed original fluid was very very dark at 90k . Not burnt and no debris around cvt pan magnets . I think I got to it in time ! DONT BELIEVE TOYOTA ! CHANGE YOUR CVT FLUID . THEY JUST WANT TO SELL YOU A NEW $10,000 CVT .
This is insane… why not just have a normal dipstick.. they just want people going to stealerships to check the fluids.. thanks for sharing the location
