Hi Fillipe, I'm in Ohio... There are only a couple active Arri analogue camera technicians left on the coast and I would be surprised if they would be able to help in short notice... You could try AM Camera as Andree is in the region however ALWAYS super busy- Best, Paul-
Thank you! I’ve opened the camera and I see the piece you are fixing is a bit loose. It’s not broken, but it not fully attached to the lever. Do you know if I need to take off the power motor to tighten the little piece?
@sydvision Hi Fillipe, remove the black plastic cover over the switch lever on the operator-side if the camera revealing where the lever is attached to the actuator and tighten that slotted screw while holding the lever to stop rotation. That should make a difference in how dependably the camera starts.
Dear Paul. I’m so fascinated by your knowledge. I’m a young filmmaking wanting to use an sr to film my next project, but I have very little experience with film cinema cameras. I have access to a SR in college but it seems to be broken and no one knows what’s wrong with it. I was wondering if you are located in the LA area and if you could help some students with all your experience to get that camera running again. Sincerely, Felipe
Hello Mamo, I'm glad that video helped you. I think that is the 1st RU-vid video I ever posted many years ago so the fact that it's still helping anyone is very satisfying! Best, Paul
Greetings, I own a Topcor 5.8cn f1.8 and the aperture can’t be stopped down beyond by moving the aperture ring while stopping down works perfectly by moving the auto-iris tab on the rear. So the iris/aperture blades are always shut in other words lens mounted on the camera barely any light passes through the lens. Also, the aperture ring stops at f16, it does not go all the way to f22, otherwise, the lens looks beautiful. Your response and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Ciao Paul, I found this lens at only 290 euro (in best conditions) in my country (Italy)... but i not found the adapter PL but... I created the adapter !!! If you wont check the video of realizzation in my channel ! Thanxs !!
That missing pin would only be useful when mounted on one of the few remaining Topcon Cameras However if this lens is used with a modern mirrorless camera, then the missing pin is of no value. In my case, I’m trying to get rid of that pin. I want to mount this lens on a MicroFourThirds camera using a focal reducer. I have a Metabones FD to M43 .71x focal reducer, which will convert this lens to a 42mm F1.0 lens. The Metabones focal reducers are very high quality. I have obtained a Canon Lens Mount Converter E, which adapts an Exacta Mount Lens to an FD flange. It’s thin enough that the Exacta lens doesn’t loose it’s infinity focus. Works perfectly for my Meyer-Optik Görlitz Oreston 50mm F1.8. However, for this Topcor lens, the spring that locks the converter’s FD mount in place interferes with this very pin. I’m considering cutting off the pin.
For anyone reading in 2022! The 35ti is SUPER picky with batteries!!!! Energizer works best for me. Never cheap out on batteries for older vintage electronics
Hi Josh, It acted more like a parafocal when I was working on it in that the focus would shift in & out during a zoom. That may have been due to the internal components chosen more than lack of optical engineering but whatever the case, it just wasn't a high-end cine zoom lens...
Hi Losef, I personally have not explored that because the 535 cameras although newer with brighter viewfinders were not as popular as the 35BL line because they were so much larger and heavier... I'm sure that after-market belts could be found for those as well if needed trough tat same supplier (Pic Design). It would just take one self-educating about the different timing belt types and finding the closest match...
Hi Becks, Look us (Visual Products) up on the internet and give us a call. Ask for Paul Hillman as he is our Angenieux expert and he can guide you to your best solution for your 12-120.
Hi Paul. Thanks for the video. I’m by no means an expert on this but was recently given an Angenieux 12-120 f2. I would like to attach it to my Bolex h16 reflex (c mount) but I need to identify it’s mount. I’ve done some visual research online and it seems to be an Arri standard. Is there any way I could send you some pictures of it to have a look and advise me on how to solve the issue? Thank you
Hey, great vid. Is there a mount for Arri B body to pl ? All I’m finding is vice versa. I have a Arriflex 16sr with no lenses and was wondering how I could save money on rentals. Thanks
Hi Zakee, You can only go from Arri standard or bayonet mount to PL on the lens side... not the other way around which is why you're not finding adapters available. The only way to make your stock SR accept PL lenses is to have it converted to PL mount. We do have solutions at Visual Products for that a well as S-16 & HD-SDI video assist... give us a call!
Paul Scaglione no way ! I’ve been on you guys website searching for equipment. I had no clue you work for them !!! I will defiantly been in contact with you. Thanks for the info
We have been installing these on 16SR-3 cameras that posses the elbow style optical relay. Soon we will be manufacturing IVS top-mount units for the SR-3 cameras to replace existing IVS units. This will be 3 months out. Go to our website www.visualproducts.com and under the accessories tab click on the video assist tab to get details...
That's a nice-looking BL! The gold-plated nameplate gives it a glitzy 80's vibe. Concerning voltage, is there a sweet spot between supplying ample power to the motor, while at the same time not frying the electronics? I see 16v mentioned more often than not. I ask because my old 12v power supply (a Sony ENG cam unit) died recently, and I just today replaced it with a vintage Norris Film Products AC/DC adjustable power supply unit. Although it was originally intended for powering their intervalometers and capping shutters, do you see any reason that it might not be advisable to run a 2C or any of its brethren with it? The unit is currently set to 15v, but like your supply is variable from 0-30v.
Hey Michael, the camera can handle the extra voltage but regulates it down and burns off the excess as heat. With anything old (like me!), especially electronics making it work harder than necessary is a formula for a shorter life.... Turn that supply down to maybe 13/14 volts for an Arri (black) camera from the '70's and later👍
Hi Michael... I kind of wandered a bit on that reply- check the output amperage capability on that supply on the info plate/sticker.... A 2-C can require up to 5 amps to run so make sure that Sony supply can provide that. Otherwise the supply voltage could drop down under load causing the motor to drop speed or possibly overheat- Note: off you can adjust it up to 18 volts, that 2-C can take it!
Wow! I should not be replying to questions before breakfast on a Saturday! Yes. Ken Norris' supply is perfect. Plenty of power for whatever you run! Ken Norris R.I.P. buddy,.... Good job!
Paul, as you recommended I've backed the supply voltage back to around 13-14 volts. Since I'm mostly dealing with a workload of nothing more strenuous than 24 fps. and 400ft. mags, I'll probably have oomph to spare. Speaking of Mr. Norris, it's a real shame he left this world before having a chance to witness the amazing resurgence celluloid filmmaking has experienced of late. Scouring thru the glossy product booklet that arrived with my unit, I was floored by the scope and capabilities of his many Bolex, Arri and Mitchell accessories. With his business sadly having been one of the first of many casualties in the much-lauded digital revolution, he would have been thrilled to find that film's imminent demise had been GREATLY exaggerated!
Hello Michael, If the lens cleared while inching by hand you're okay. In all but the case of some early 16mm Aaton cameras, the mirror-shutters are really well controlled by their bearing sets so won't move during start up or run. If they did, your ability to have accurate eye focus would be impossible. Those older wide lenses were scary because of how close they came to the mirrors but for the most part the Arri black cameras were always okay. When we flipped over to the gray cameras; 435's, 535's and Arricams that changed due to mirror clearances being reduced. I don't think you will, but don't push your luck by netting the back of the lens.... I've seen mirrors sanded by people snot taping some Christian Dior to the back of one of these old wide lenses and not realizing there was an issue until a lens change! Good luck!
Hello Paul! How are you?? I'm italian. I found in italy the Arrifex 35 BL 4 !! I found my film camera in the old warehouse. I use this camera for only collection. But my BL haven't lens. I search a vintage lens, very economic, because i can't spend many money for a litte prime lens PL (50mm is good). You can help me for this?
Hello, Check out ebay item 204499568712. This lens with any number of inexpensive Arri standard to PL adapters available online would be dine for display.
@@paulscaglione8814 Thank You Paul! But this lens in USA, but i found this lens at Rome, my country! I can't paste the link in this message... but i can contact the seller for try on bl camera body (with PL adapter)
@@paulscaglione8814 Ciao Paul, I found this lens at only 290 euro (in best conditions)... but i not found the adapter PL but... I created the adapter !!! If you wont check the video of realizzation in my channel ! Thanxs !!
Paul, I have one of VP's Arri Std. adapters. Besides looking great, it's very solid performer. I recently purchased an early 1960's Angie 14.5mm in an Arri Std. mount. I test mounted it last night trying several makes of adapters on a BL4, a 35-III and a 2C (all PL mt.), only to discover that the mirror clearance was frightfully near non-existent! I was able to cautiously hand rotate the cam's shutters via their inching knobs, but thought it best not to risk powering them up. Was the back-end heavy 14.5mm one of the causalities of the updated mirror that Arri introduced in the early 1980's?
Hi there. I have a couple of arri standard mount lenses and was wandering what brand this product is? Been trying to get hold of a couple of these. Thanks :)
You are right on the elements - the hooded one front and the one with 1-4 notches (for soft focus) is back element. In my 3B these are interchangeable, but what you suggest is also possible.
Hi Paul... i'm Marco, (italy). Sorry for my english. I love this camera, i love the arriflex 35bl, but i haven't money for buy this camera. One question: i want a very old 35bl, very very old... only camera body, and not in good condition. Can you help me? Because i very very happy if i owner only camera body and in not good condition... because i not use 35BL but i love this camera for collections. Exist only camera body "scrap" not in use?
Escursioni Estive Hello Marco! Send us an email to: sales@visualproducts.com . We have a 35BL that we can sell you cheap. It has problems but does Run. We have magazines also so can get you fixed up. Make sure to send the same message you sent me through youtube so our salesmen know you are looking for cheap, l maybe broken a.d I will talk to them about your request. Best, Paul Scaglione (Italiano too!)
A typical CLA on a 35BL is not as typical as it used to be..... To check spec's and spot lube the movement and clean a few smudges off optics is an hour or two of labor however these cameras are now older than many of their owners so I would recommend that the cameras be sent to a qualified, trained technician for inspection as things like film gap, registration pin bushing wear, pull-down claw wear and so many other variables can affect the quality of the product these machines produce. It is better to be completely informed of any issues if found and how those issues may affect your footage before starting a long and expensive project rather than blindly trusting that a blob of grease and an acetone saturated Kimwipe is going to address all possible issues. I can inspect and service your camera at Visual Products in Ohio. We are easy to find on the internet and have been around for over 20 years and I have been working on ARRI cameras for over 30 years now so can steer you in the right direction with what you've got and what you need..... give me a call! Happy shooting, - Paul
Hi Paul...I have a BL4": quick question (hopefully)...when I plug power into camera, the camera shutter continues to move. It's a frame by frame move. As if the electronic inching button is stuck. Do you know what causes this, and what I do to repair? Thanks!
Hi John, We are in northern Ohio. Visual Products Inc. We are easy to find on the web and between Peter Matar and myself have about 60 years experience working on ARRI cameras.....
This company also makes a belt that should fit on the bl3's and 4's and they're endless with no splices problem is their minimums are stupid...precisionparts.wmberg.com/ecatalog/rowler/en/flt=16/Flex-E-Gear 32GCF-176-E Main Drive Belt....Glad to know i'm not the only one searching for an alternative...I did order a pic-design one to try as my main drive belt. wish me luck
