i have the same trouble the cluster instrument no working only the oil pressure gauge work all the life work the meter also no work can some one help me about this issue thank you very much
I'll tell you what I was doing: in 2014 when this was made, there was ONE source of the REPRODUCTION ( not even OEM) seals. They were $250 for a set. The O-ring set I used was $19.99, lasted at least 4 more years, and worked fine. So go ahead and spend YOUR money however you want. I'm here to Save money. Which set did you use on YOUR R129?
There is also a trans fluid filter that you should replace too and to check the fluid make sure car is at normal operating temperature then you can check the dip stick, not on cold. Owners Manuel says so . Awesome video thank you omi h for giving me some confidence to do this myself and save money
what's up with all the unnecessary voice overs? more professional if you simply talk.. no music, no voice overs. I'll still subscribe and watch videos...with volumn OFF!
Thank you for bringing up an excellent point. RU-vid isn't film, and it isn't TV, so the music track can be unnecessary. (You'll note my most recent video about the 190E muffler has NO music track.) As to the voice over, basically How-To videos can be based on "faces" or "hands". I have a face fit for radio, so I choose to show just my hands. It also relieves me of having to try to record synchronized sound. I can move the descriptions of the tasks & parts etc around in the edit to fit the action. I can't be all things to all viewers. Some folks watch with earbuds on their phones, while others enjoy my work on 75 inch Smart TVs. I try to make the best compromises without compromising the actual informative content.
Nice repair! I attempted a similar repair on my 190D but in my gravel driveway. I gave up because it was just such a headache with being on your back and trying to move pipes around and get the correct sizes of pipe and claps. I ended up just taking it somewhere, and it was a $75 well spent. I respect you for following through with the repair, exhaust work is... exhausting.
Thanks! Yes, I had a bit of claustrophobia at one point, only about 14 inches of clearance under there to try to run the Dremel against those bolts. Those bolts! Rust is its' own problem on cars this old. glad you enjoyed the video!.
I was going to ask either Linus or Lucy Van Pelt if they recognized it, but it turns out it is called “First Snowfall “, and is part of Apples’ royalty free music that comes with Final Cut Pro. 😄
I feel like I’m watching a “How it’s Made” episode. Your voice is great for these kind of videos 🙂. Ok, about my car… I have an Element and replaced all sensors when changing the wheel bearings/hubs. Did you find out what the problem was? I read a forum about the vsa modulator being a common problem with these cars and at some point Honda was covering the replacement (forum was from 2014). Some others were saying it could be corrosion on the ground cables.
I only managed to get the cable replaced. (which it really needed) I did not get the dash lights to reset for more than a few minutes, so there is more work to be done and more for me to discover.
This is a great video! It seems like most writeups for this job have the caliper and disc removed, and the strut either disconnected or removed entirely. It seems like you did none of those things. In hindsight would you remove some of those?? Thanks!!
@@JHZR2 thanks! No, I would not change a thing. It really was as easy as I showed it. I did have to swing the strut aside and use zip ties to hold it in place, but there is no need to disconnect the rotor and caliper.
Very nice video, I have to do this job on my w201 as well, I just have a question : when you separate the knuckle from the control arm and lower the control arm onto the floor jack, do you lower the jack completely so that the (slightly compressed) spring doesn't exert any pressure on the control arm ? Or do you lower it just enough to remove the ball joint ? Thank you
I do lower the jack completely. I generally slide it inboard on the arm and keep it right nearby, but the ball joint press tool is bulky and needs all the space I can get.
Hi I watched many videos on this issue and yours is by far the most informative. 🎉 Could I ask, do you have to remove the sway bar or just loosen it. I see other videos and they do nothing with the sway bar. Thanks in advance
Dear, please tell me, I have a 190 e 1990 1.8 engine, I drive at 80 km/h, sometimes the gas disappears for 2.3 seconds, then it appears, what could be the reason?
@FlashDriveFilms yes, the MAS relay. But it's not the problem with mine. I have fuel and spark and no start. It will start for a short time after it sits, but will stall with any kind of load put on it. Then it stalls and may restart or sputter then eventually to just a crank no start and adding fuel to the (b owl) doesn't help
That is unusual. I haven't found any Mercedes from the mid 80s to the mid 90s at least that didn't use the exact same power steering filter. Maybe it was a retrofit? Or from a market outside of North America?
Awesome video . I have a 1997 SL320 R129 . I'm changing the front wheel bearings and brakes . I took off the spindle bearings dust cap . I used an allen wrench to unloosen the spindle nut . The nut is really tight , taking it off . Can i separate the collar, to make it easier to get the nut back on the spindle . I'm fearful that i may cross thread the spindle threads , screwing the nut back on because its really tight . What are your thoughts. Thank you.
Well the nut *should* be pretty snug. Definitely check the threads on the spindle and inside the nut to make sure they are not damaged. (It may have previously been cross-threaded or forced on) Also, I've seen some where the bit of copper spring intended to reduce radio static was partially jammed into the threads. If you do decide to spread the nut, remove the screw entirely first, and don't go crazy with the force on it. You don't want to split the whole thing with a chisel, for instance.Grease things generously. And, good luck !
@@FlashDriveFilms, thank you for your reply. After I took off the nut , there wasn't a thrust washer , the nut was against the bearing. I looked online for a washer but couldn't find one . I may use a thin regular washer temporarily. I'm going to be very careful when reassembling everything. I'm going to attempt to install the spindle nut without separating it and if I can't , I'll separate it . This is the third R129 I've owned . They are awesome cars . Thank you again.
Tempus fugit, at last i am on the road in my SL, it passed the UK gov check with flying colours, I've only done short journeys so far, AND i noticed both cooling fans running, after a short distance, Around 9 months back i thought i had a water pump problem the engine boiled up so bought a new pump, and today i am fitting it, in between rain showers, well it is Cheshire UK , similar to Seattle when i lived there for 6 months. Rain cities i think. I was parked outside my sons school ( I'm and older papa ) and a red VW hatch stopped with a blonde teacher driving it, she looked at me and said what a beautiful car, nice lady ! I replied i bought it for my fiftieth birthday , she laughed and said i did the same with this, so my classic line was, Oh two weeks ago then, i had noticed the year on her registration plate, she laughed and drove off. I guess unexpected things happen when you drive a 1990 SL even on highways i get cars slowing down and pacing me then the thumbs up with big smiles.. 12 years ago i said to my Thai wife i will take my SL back to Thailand, NO WAY she said, as its far too sexy a car and girls will jump into the front seat, WOW she was serious, guess some ladies there have a habit of stealing other ladies husbands but not me i am a happy man. Here's what i did, i put the car in my wife's name, if she owns it for 5 years then she can import it to Thailand and AVOID import duty plus tax at 80% of the cars original value. So sometime in the future the SL may make it to warmer climes . But for now i have to figure out how to loosen that serpentine belt, your video has pointed me in the right direction. Lastly darn fuel gauge stuck at a quarter, i have to get to the sender unit that's going to be a pain but its do-able .Best regard from Cheshire UK and sometimes Sisaket Thailand.
Well it has been a minute, last I knew you were doing things with the brakes, fuel pump & radiator. I forget if yours is a 6 cylinder or and 8. In any event, I did the water pump on my '90 300SL , back in 2016, and had the devils' own time with it. It's not a simple 4-bolt arrangement, like many cars. On the M104 engines it is tight up under the intake manifold and has a wide assortment of sensors and fasteners to remove. Second hardest car service I've ever done. (the worst being a clutch replacement on an X1/9: mid-engined and done on jack stands in a dirt driveway. Turned into a 7 hour ordeal.) There's an O-ring where the pump body meets the block. Put a dab of axle grease on it to hold it in place when you instal the new pump so it doesn't slip, get pinched, and leak straight away. (ask me how I know.) Anyway, best of luck on your automotive & international adventures!
Thank you for this , my car stalls coming to lights sometimes and when I turn suddenly right it instantly cuts out , another gentleman man told me it could be a loose connection where the fuel pump relay sits, so I will need to check that then check the solder on the board , my car is a 1990 2.6 so it has everything combined in the MAS relay
Yes, even with the newer MAS system, a loose connector or bad ground, or even older fuse, is enough the stall out the pump relay. Definitely check those connectors and fuses.
Hey man. I have a w140 s280 that has the same tensioner setup. I don’t know how but I keep snapping the rods and the belt doesn’t seem to tighten at all :( any idea ?
Truthfully, I've never worked on a W140. The best I can guess is to make sure the center bolt that clamps the tensioner is loose enough to allow it to move. I actually snapped a rod years ago because I was trying to tighten it against a tensioner that wasn't free to rotate. I loosened that center bolt, and the tensioner worked as it should.
Thanks for the excellent video. I've watched it a few times before I start my brake compensator replacement. What is confusing though is that you say "relax the valve body" - e.g. the "L" shaped end of the connecting rod should not be pushing against the piston. But you say to wedge the bar up with a block of wood. Wouldn't that push the other end of the rod into the piston? I would think allowing the rod to hang down, unattached to the clevis/axle would alleviate pressure on the piston since the other end would move away from contacting it. Once I get the old parts out and begin to reinstall the new compensator it will likely reveal what I need to do. I know I need to fabricate a measuring arm to attach to the pivot hole on the end of the actuating arm so I can set the correct position of the arm before tightening the compensator mounting bolts.
Excellent question. Bear in mind, the idea is to interpose the block of wood in such a way as to simulate the axle being closest to the body. That is when the valve body allows the free flow of fluid. Visualize how the linkage/rod/valve body interact when under braking. The brakes are on, the body shifts forward on the suspension and tilts downwards at the front, unloading the rear springs and tilting the body up and away from the axle. Think of how the linkage and rod react, stemming the flow of fluid to the rear calipers to avoid lockup as mass shifts forward. Then imagine how to place the wood block so that the conditions match the car in a level, neutral position. That is the position that allows the freest flow of fluid to the calipers during brake bleeding. (maybe I need to make another video that shows this more clearly) Also: be sure to check out Auto Ricambis' excellent video on the brake compensator replacement. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vHR4BHspRdI.htmlsi=xbRUn2u6wzx2zuRQ (and no, I'm not Sponsored)
Update: I also added some more photos of the shop manuals about this in the comment section of my community tab. Hopefully they help with your compensator project.
@@FlashDriveFilms I appreciate the quick replies. I believe I was under the wrong assumption that if the piston is pushed in by the rod end it was limiting fluid flow. The added manual info suggested that in actuality it is opposite of what I was thinking. So if the rod end that attaches to the axle moves up it pushes the "L" end into the piston and that is when the greatest fluid flow is allowed. Thank you.
The whole car was pretty special at the time. It combined traditional aspects of wood and canvas (like an old sailboat might have) with some pretty high-spec features: Double Overhead Cam engine with an aluminum head, 5-speed transmission, full instrumentation (in an era drifting towards idiot lights) and, as you mentioned, 4 wheel disc brakes. Topped by one of the worlds' easiest to operate fabric roofs.
Thanks! I never tried LEDs. I suspect if you just used them for one thing, like just the fog lights or just the turn signals, it might work. But if you replaced all the bulbs with LEDs it probably would light the dash indicator for bulb out.
You don't need to compress the spring just support under arm remove ball joint nut prie shocker and hub assembley and move it out the way then use tool to remove ball joint done it many time ball joint is more faf to get out than anything else
Thank you for this video, however my Mercedes 190E 2.3 m102 (4 cyl - 8 valve) 1993; has 10 pins in total, 6 in one row, 4 in the other row. Did MB change the pin out during the 190E years?
Yes, depending on the year and what market it was sold. In, (USA, Europe, Africa etc) the number and function of the pins did change. By 93 there was a cold start valve ( essentially a fifth fuel injector) with its own electronics altered for newer emissions requirements in some markets. That may be why your relay is different. Or you may have the relay from a different model that has been previously swapped in. The center pins still power the pump from the key.
Rotation direction doesn't matter. The piston will rotate either way.Turn the piston clockwise, or anti-clockwise, to end up with the reference line/mark on the upper side.
@@FlashDriveFilms Thanks..I didn't have to time to craft my wording ....just like all the others ..lol...When I put the caliper back on the car..then it will have a reference. We could use many words to describe...North, South< Fore and Aft...
They are actually different from each other. It has to do with how they are mounted relative to the hard line connections. Held next to each other they are like mirror images.
You can loosen the belt by prying the tensioner pulley with a large screwdriver/prybar. ( the tensioner is springy) That should slacken the belt enough to slip it off the alternator. Or loosen the center bolt on the tensioner and run the 13mm adjuster rod back (remember it is reverse threads) to achieve the needed slack to pop the belt off the alternator pulley.
@@FlashDriveFilms so clockwise to loosen it and anti clockwise to tighten it, mine does not have the screw in the middle of the tensioner, it has that 10mm hex
Correct. Some came with a 10mm hex bolt. Most were an allen-head cap screw . Don't remove it, just loosen it a little to get the tensioner to pivot when you slacken the adjuster rod.
Good day mate , you are a Legend 💪🤝 thank you so very much for your time effort to bring shares us your knowledge on W124 ,,, Mate I have problem as I replace water pump after I fill everything bake now time for the belt to install and I found out the yellow tensioner pulley missing 🤦♂️ I have not seen it since I start take pump out ,, now engine shaking and misfire,,, any idea how to do it ,without yellow tensioner pulley ??? Thank you again Cheers Matt
I have honestly never encountered that before. Do you mean the whole pulley is missing or just the yellow plastic tension indicator? I know the indicator also acts as a sort of spacer and that may upset the operation of the pulley. I don't know if that would lead to misfiring though.
@@FlashDriveFilms Thank u so very much for your quick reply 💪🫡Yes the yellow plastic tensioner arrow missing Before it was running like a dream no issue at all ,,, everything else could cause any misfire all changed car serviced regularly,, tomorrow I will see my mates if they have anything for me if not I’ll buy it online until then I’ll see in mm the difference and add a washer as a temporary replacement! Many thanks and I’ll get back to you with results 🫡 Cheers Matt
Just as an idea, look carefully at the connectors on the front of the engine, especially the crank position sensor down low on the front pulley. If you brushed against that it might have bent the bracket or loosened the connector enough to influence the engine firing.
@@FlashDriveFilms Mate guess what 😊🤦♂️😄 before I start working on E280 I washed her with pressure washing machine with car after I covered what need to be covered even tho with care , so I just remember today 😁😅 and I take all spark plugs each one by one each one I blow it out with my air compressor then clean spark plug with carbby cleaner then blow the inside all cylinders just incase 😅all done 4 cylinders was full of water 😁 now it runs like it was before with no drama, the belt I did it with four steps until I could find the right spot that I undo the pulley bolt then turn the belt tensioner adjustment one half turn the tight the bolt then undo again and repeat it 4 times of course each time I start car until I get there ,,,, thank you again for you kind and care and for thinking for the other possibility kind thinking so I can solve my problem/issue , for me you are a Legend 🤝💪🙏😎🫡 Wish you all the best in the world 🫡 Cheers Matt
Very instructive and calming. I did find that my new hoses were not very flexible and so they had to slightly contort to align correctly with the hard line and then with the caliper. I positioned it so that the curve to the line was up and should stretch straight when turning and only more tightly curl when turning the other way. I also noticed you are working on the car over an oriental rug. Hopefully it is a replica and not an original. Thanks again.
Thank you! I always found the key thing with the lines was getting the clips back in at the bracket where the steel meets the flexible lines. Then I realized the clips are asymmetrical and will slip in easily when flipped correctly. The rug in the video has been the subject of considerable comment on the channel for some time now. It is, off course, a remarkable replica, rendered in a plastic derived from used soda bottles. Substantially cheaper than the usual rubber matts made for garage floors, and I think, slightly more elegant.
