This doesn't make sense. Transfer case locked still allows for spin on both front and rear axles. The struggling part can happen with tc locked. I dont know what you locked when you unstuck it
he ''locked'' the central transfer case, so it send 50-50 the power to front and rear...and then the torsen (automatic) can transfer the power from the spining wheel of each axle to the opposite wheel...with central tc ''unlocked'' even with the torsen that are automatic you might not be able to pass diagonals (one wheel on air) if your central is ''unlocked'' in a niva .
@@alexandervouzenthal8163 No Nivas have permanent 4x4 but they send more power to the rear axle... when you lock the central transfer the power goes 50 to front 50 to rear .
You plug 2 looms into the engine bay to intercept the sensor and boost controller. Then it just sits there and tells the boost control that it's providing less boost than it really is.
Hey there, I just ordered the race chip but the pdf instructions are a bit unclear. Do you have to remove the engine cover to install? and if so, what is needed, just a wrench? Thanks!
Standard digital boost gauge looks to be showing 14psi/1 bar. It shows 19psi/1.4 bar at max which is max for standard turb/intercooler without really high air temp 110'C at the manifold therefore being pointless.
I'm not convinced that an ECU tune makes sense in the 1.4T. It's rated 140 ps from the factory but makes more like 155 ps. A safe tune might give you 170 ps, but after that, you will have to do a bunch of modifications such as larger Turbo, intake, charge pipes, down pipe, exhaust, intercooler just to get to around 200 ps. Myself, I'm just keeping it stock and only upgrading the wheels, tires, and suspension.
@@richardkessler6721 I might have to reevaluate whether to tune this car. May I ask, do you have actual experience with driving a Suzuki Swift Sport before and after doing an ECU tune?
La mia riprogrammazione della ecu ha portato da 130 hp a 156 hp su centralina originale. Dopo ho fatto lo scarico diretto senza catalizzatore riprogrammato la centralina e sono arrivato a 172 hp
You only gain 20-30 hp out of a retune on an otherwise stock car. It doesn't add much strain to the engine, so it seems to be safe for long-term use. It does make a noticeable difference to the driving experience. It's not night and day, but it is there.
With the tuning it is important to use high octane fuel also. 98 ROZ or better might help here. MPS Engineering offers a good software that also offers more boost than your chip. On original hardware it delivers 24 sec from a constant 100 kph to 200 kph taken via gps (around 32 sec in original before).
The reason is your country does not build the K14C/ZC33S it is built in Japan, so import taxes from your government will inflate the msrp for this vehicle too much and nobody will buy it. Suzuki only sells what Maruti builds locally in your country.
The boost gauge doesnt show real boost once a tuning box Is fitted, Since its going to report the boost the ECU sees, which Is intercepted by the tuning box which reports lower than actual.
First 12 sec of the video it indicates TC unlocked then on the 13th sec it indicates TC locked thats why I thought you can locked and unlocked it. Thanks
1. Learn to spell or perhaps learn the language before posting your comment 2. What a whole bunch of hogwash. Swift is among the most fuel efficient cars.
@@AlexDuring if you feel anything after plug the gts, you should drive the car like that for like a month, then remove the RaceChips. You will immediatly feel the lack of performance 😉
Thank you for a tip. Do you have personal experience? I wouldnt like my car to have a consumption of 10 liters for normal driving and to be more noisy. Thats why I am a bit skeptical about open filters.
@@hpridal Hi, I also have the racechip gts box but in mode 7 with an air filter in the original air box, and 98 octane excellium. Consumption will really depend on driving. In mode 7 and a sporty driving trip, this will consume a little more, around 10l. But in normal driving in the city I am at 6-7L. At 90km / h and cruise control I'm at about 4.8L At 110km / h and cruise control I'm at about 5.4L At 130km / h and cruise control I'm at around 6L
Hello Eugen, more-less the same, I dont see huge increase. 100 lets say around 6, 150 approx 8 and 200 hard to test for longer journeys.. The biggest pain is a hesitation around 3500 revs on half throttle which makes me sometimes crazy.
