I’m going to try this .. will let you know if it works lol

You are my hero.

Wish we could bake you a pie. You made this so easy. Now we can clean our oven easier🤙🏽

Good point to start looking. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you very much for the video I appreciate it

Thank you for doing this video.

removed screws as directed, able to remove door through instructions. when replacing door, you can pull the hinges out a little and the will lock to that position to make it easier to reinstall.

I don’t know if you ever figured out how to remove/clean your oven door, but here’s a video direct from Sears showing you this process. I hope it helps you out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-unuoNnghdWo.html

Where can I find the diesel hose that will hold against the heat of the motor . Do they have to be braided in metal like the ones for the high pressure oil hose

Good video man. Thank you

Thank you for making this, I do not have clips, but I have the two screws, so I will try that.

Isn't that hose 5/16

My leak was a rotten hose on the low side of the pump lift pump, now, I have a whole new problem after a heroin attic Tweaker thief around the corner decided to drill a 3/8 hole in my fuel tank and I didn’t put fuel in it at first and drove it 6 miles it ran fine and till it started acting like an add water in the fuel so I cycled the tanks with no fuel in the front tank and it picked up dirt and junk and when I change the filter it had dirt and junk in the filter canister but I still can’t get it to run, !!!!?. What can you say, other vlogers say the pump has a weep hole and some times they leak to, , my hose was cracked and split, , I pulled my fuel filter canister , that made the job way way easier, now my at a brainless point of my brain, ok , thanks BigAl California.

Hi, just to give you a easier way to replace to fuel hose. If you are going to mess with the one fuel line, just undo the two bolts that hold the water fuel separator housing. Do yourself a smart favor, replace all the hoses. Plus on the side of the housing is a brase fitting, undo the 2 bolts & inside is a wire screen & some models have a 2inch filter & it needs to be cleaned up too & at lease once a year. You can put a O ring over the screen & evenly tighten up the 2 bolts. Replacing the fuel lines ever 2years will keep the engine from leaking. Plus the bottom hose is a pain, if the housing is still bolted down. Removing the 2 bolts & this makes the job so much easier & put the hose clamp under the housing will the housing is out 1st. Your engine will run much better. Use a quality filter, because that is what clogs up the screen & 2 inch filter. They protect your fuel injectors. Sign Mike & I paid a so called professional mechanic $1,700, in parts & labor & towing to & from his shop & it was because my truck would not start. After I said enough to the professional mechanic & brought it home & went on line & I found out about the screen & 2inch filter & cleaned them up & truck started right up. A lesson I paid for dearly & giving it to all my diesel buddies, free of charge!

Awesome.

Thanks for this..

The pump will leak when its going bad too. Replaced it 8months ago today i have a leak again. Hopin its just a hose

I think this may be my problem. My leak is dripping under passenger side. Going to replace all lines. They are all 3/8 hose?

I am getting ready to do the same thing on my 7.3L turbo diesel and I am hoping like hell it isn't one of the two banjo lines that go to the cylinder heads that is the source of the leak.....watched lots of videos on this subject and believe me you learn a little something from each video out there including yours .....my plan is to replace the old with a new fuel pump, fuel bowl, fuel regulator and all new fuel lines.....I am willing to spend a few hundred dollars on new components as I am saving 3 times that in labor charges by doing the job myself....thank you for the video as it gives me hope it is just a fuel hose.

Thank you so much. You have made my tomorrow much better.

well Done!

Yes my 97’ had the same issues and I too fought getting that hose on lol but now after 2 years I’ve got a leak again ! And she struggles with a bit of a load going up any incline as before when I replaced those hoses , I starting to wonder if it’s a leaky fuel pump which with a drop in pressure would cause the lack of power! By the way it was awesome that you had that trouble light to show the top end! Good video brother! Keep the ol’ 7.3 going! 👍

I hope you used hose rated for diesel fuel and not just regular gasoline fuel hose, believe it or not, there is a difference. Your fuel lines have already been replaced at least once by the way. The original three hoses in that location were light blue and can be purchased on Amazon or your local ford dealer already cut to length and rated for diesel fuel, they will even be the light blue hose material. And you should check and make sure the fuel bowl heater is still good and not corroded in the bottom of the canister. If you had to purchase the fuel drain rebuild kit and a fuel heater I would just go ahead and purchase the fuel bowl assembly because you are saving money by replacing several parts that can go out and the ones that already have for around $265. You won't be using cheap Chinese o-rings that are going to swell up and leak before long because the assembly comes with everything but the blue hoses. It even comes with a new wiring harness for the ICP sensor. If that truck has the original ICP sensor I'll bet if you pull the harness plug off the sensor it will be oil-soaked because the sensor is leaking oil and needs to be replaced, ONLY buy the International or Motorcraft ICP sensors don't buy the knockoffs at the local parts stores or eBay. There are lots of videos warning you about this on RU-vid. IF the ICP sensor is bad you will need to replace the wiring harness and the sensor.

Thank You. Well done. Explained well

Thanks you so much!!!

If you are having trouble removing the door then you most likely have a newer model range/oven. The oven door on my Kenmore Elite has two clips locks at the top of each hinge. The clips are flipped down to release each hinge. The door can then be lifted straight up. Just look closely at your hinge assembly to determine what to do to remove. Now get busy and clean that oven.

Ok nice, thanks for your message, BigAl ,I have a 1997 f super duty 450, same fuel in the valley, I thought that line (holes)was longer than that, good to know, thanks BigAl California.

Thanks ...you walked through the process perfectly without having to disassemble the whole top of motor...

I'm going to try this. I have no idea where its leaking from but it's the same situation. Its leaking in the valley. So I'm going to try the cheapest thing first. Those 3 hoses. Thanks

Mines dripping down the flywheel cover.

Didn’t need all two inches lol that’s what she said. I’m having this issue on my 97 7.3 and found out it’s those lines. Dry rotted.

We STILL don't have a video showing this. This was almost USELESS. Like your teacher (who you ignored ) told you - SHOW YOUR WORK!!!!

Me gustaría saber como calibrar la temperatura del horno, este tipo de estufa es como la que tengo, y el numero de modelo lo encontré al lado derecho de la pared frontal donde topa el cajón bajo el horno, al parecer es Mod 79095747991 Alguien sabe como calibrar la temperatura del horno y puede orientarme por favor!

Thank you. Looking at other videos I saw ovens with clips but I had no idea that the two screws are what's needed to remove the door.