There is a lot of equipment out there and it is hard to pick and choose which one(s) is right for you. Once you have a trolling motor with anchor (spot lock) capability and you get a live sonar system, the next step is to be able to point the live transducer where you want not where the trolling motor is moving to maintain position. But all of those costs can really add up. And thanks for compliment, I have a hard time not providing detailed information. I really struggle if I have to start cutting corners. I'm glad that you like the videos.

I like the remote control. The unit needs to be powered, so the cable isn't too bad especially with the waterproof connector so I can easily wire it in. And I put pedal in the foot pedal tray when I travel. And given the rough water that I run, I would prefer that the pedal is wired otherwise it would probably fly out of the boat.

Those are Simms. They are for sun protection.

@@garrywoodruff960 Yeah but do they have containers on them? It looks like you could store stuff on top of them?

They fold back to expose the fingers. You fold the tops down the cover your fingers in the cold, just like mittens. They are great when you have to drive in the cold, you just flip them down and put your fingers in them. Then you flip it up when you want to fish. And they are well insulated too. That day for around 40F, so the wind chill was brutal running.

@@garrywoodruff960 Oh, that makes more sense. To me they looked like little pockets with zippers you could put stuff inn..

Thanks I'm glad that you found the video useful. I have standby, screenshot, primary window, and secondary window for my units. I have the side panel turned on to get to the anchor mode in a few steps, but your setup is definitely faster and less effort.

You're welcome. And thank you!

Hi, I'm glad that you enjoyed the videos. If you look on the Community page, I posted the schematic a while back. Scroll down to around 11 months ago. Let me know if you found it. And if you have additional questions, please let me kow.. Here is the fuse block: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBV2MHN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here is the relay: www.amazon.com/dp/B0BB1SY3RZ?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

@@garrywoodruff960 Yep, I found the Schematic that you posted. So, I understand the relay wiring and now know where to attach the "house battery" positive and negative and the AT2 yellow and the isolated battery positive to the relay. Do the red and black wires from the AT2 module go to the fuse box? Thanks again and apologies for the questions. I know you are an EE but I am an ME and when it comes to equipment we mostly dabble in equipment instls and provisions and not the system architecture. 😃

Hi, yes I connect the red/black wires on the AT2 power cord to the fuse block. The units also connect to the fuse block. The power wire (8 AWG) that goes into the fuse block comes through a breaker (usually 30A) near the battery. I have started adding a cutoff switch between the breaker and the battery. That allows you to completely disconnect power from the battery. This is for the red (+ positive) power wire.

Thanks, I'll see if that works for me. I did something similar on the S3100 module. And yes that would help. And thanks for watching the video!

Hi, thanks for the suggestion. I went into the Sonar settings and named the in hull transducer. That worked great.

@@garrywoodruff960 You are welcome. I love your channel, I have learned alot watching your videos and feel so humble that I was able to offer some info and it was actually useful for you. Made my day.

I like it when I help people and I appreciate it when people help me as well. Thanks for the compliment too. I try to put out videos that people want/need help with. I might over the winter do a full video on naming the units and transducers too.

@@garrywoodruff960 Awesome, I will be standing by to watch.

Thank you. The 2-in-1 only has down and side imaging. There is no sonar transducer built-in. I noticed on the St Lawrence that when I was using my 3-in-1 (external) that I could see fish stacked on top of each other. When I looked at them on the in-hull transducer, it was just a thicker blob on the screen. But I usually just stick with the in-hull most of the time. My thru hull is clear when I have the setting right. Somehow I must have changed it on Champlain when I was changing the surface clarity. It is just not as sensitive. Garry

Thank you! There's more to come now I am able to get on the water. (well at least for the next month)

Thank you! I am glad that it helped you, that's why I'm making videos like this one. And thanks for watching the video(s).

I'm not sure who you are talking about. I only talked with a couple of guys at the ramp.

I will look when I get on the water this week for you. Usually the settings stick per panel. So I'll experiment and try to find the solution for you. I have a 3-in1 on my port side of the jackplate and a 3-in-HD FR on the starboard side. That is equivalent to sourcing from 2 different units. Just curious, have you trimmed up your motor to see if the interference goes away? Certainly not all the way up, but enough to get the lower unit out of the path of the transducer. Also, a picture of how your transducer is mounted would be helpful. You'll have to send it to my Facebook account (same name) so I can see it.

Thinking about it, a lot has to do with how and where the sonar signal is processed. And since only one of the channels can do sidescan, that would make sense why you are not able to use both side imaging transducers concurrently. When I do the testing, I'll see if I can run sonar, down, and side from two different source. I would have expected all of the processing to be done on the unit that has the transducer connected. So then you could just display the output on any unit independently of other transducers. Sorry, just trying to figure out the way the internals operate.

@@garrywoodruff960 so I put Ss left side sourcing from the left side scan, left only. The 7 which is also on the console I put the right only. I do have to lift my motor to get the left side to read, definitely works, just thought there would be a chance that it read from both ducers from separate units. I don’t think it can be done. Thanks for your input , really enjoy your informative videos. If you do find a solution that would be great, it’s above my pay grade. lol I’m an older guy who loves sonars and new information.

I will let you know if I find a solution for you. It would good to be able to source 2 different transducers. And I'm glad that you enjoy the videos. I try to not tell you how but also why as well. I hope that it doesn't make them too lengthy but I want to make it so if you run across a similar situation that you have enough knowledge to adapt and figure it out. Well, that's the goal anyway.

@@garrywoodruff960 can’t find your FB page.

The Global/Local setting only control how the values are distributed on the network if they are changed on one unit. Simply put, if you make a change to a Global setting then all of the units on the network get changed. If you make a change to a Local the only that unit is changed. It is not connected to sharing of data on the network. I generally have my temperature and depth set to Local on all of my units. On the console, the temperature comes from the 3-in-1 mounted on the stern and the depth comes from the in-hull transducer. Both of those transducers are connected to the right console unit. And the left console unit uses the values from the right unit. On the bow, the depth and temperature also set to Local on both units. The temperature and depth are coming from the 3-in-1 transducer on my Ghost trolling motor and are connected to my lower bow unit. The upper bow unit get the temp and depth from the lower bow unit. You want to scope the depth and temp to Local for all 3 of your units. Then set the depth on the console units to use the TM150 on the Carbon. You can set the temperature to either the TM150 or the 2-in-1 (I think that it has temp) for the console. Then on the bow, depth and temperature come from the bow unit. If you have things set to global and it happens to select the bow transducer, when you pull the trolling motor up then the temperature will eventually read the air temp and the depth will be unknown. I dealt with a lot of customers when the Global/Local settings first came out when things got set to Global and values were off. And I'm not sure why the latest updates default to Global for those values as it just doesn't make sense. I hope that helps. If you have any more questions please let me know. And thanks for watching the video! Garry

@@garrywoodruff960 Great reply. I’ll tinker with it. Tyvm

So if I want all the units to read off of the TM 150 I just set it that way?

Yes, but I would still set Depth to be Local. Also, I would name your units just to make it easier to use the right transducer.

I don’t think this is possible, but just to acknowledge. Would I be able to view my SS on the port side SS on the starboard side as a left and right on one unit. Use port as the left and starboard as the right? My motor interferes with my 2/1 on the starboard side.

Thank you. Actually, the idea for the video came from a customer when he asked me how to set up two maps. After I told him how, I figured that it would be good to share this information. And thank you for being a loyal subscriber.

If you want to have the Active Target 2 turned on whenever you have the Elite FS turned on then (1) connect the Yellow wire from the AT and Elite FS together; and (2) connect the Red from both power cords with an inline fuse to the positive (+) on the battery; and (3) connect the Black from both power cords to the negative (-) on the battery. With these connections when you turn on the Elite FS then the AT module will be powered up. However, if you want to be able to turn on/off the AT module even when you are using the Elite FS then use the switch method that I show in the video. Some of the reasons that you may want to use the switch is to turn off the AT when you are very shallow and don't want the extra sonar pinging or to conserve battery power. On the video with the 2 Elite FS units with the AT2 installation, I used a switch to turn on/off the AT module. This allows them use conserve power (only 1 battery) and for some tournaments they are not allowed to use live Sonar so they can easily turn it off.

Hi, thanks for watching the video. Let's just do a couple of basic checks. How is your transducer mounted? I assume that you have an Active Imaging 3-in-1 or 2-in-1. If your map is oriented properly, then the waypoints should be marked correctly if you have the transducer with the cable coming out towards the transom of your boat. If the cable is coming out towards the motor, then you will need to flip the image to get the sides correct. That would explain why your waypoints are off. Or perhaps the image is already flipped and needs to be reset. One test is to sidescan something on a known side of the boat such as a dock, piling, or bridge abutment. Then check on the screen what side that it shows up. If the wrong side then flip the image. Let me know. If that's not the issue we can go from there. I can also do some on the water testing as well.

Hi@@garrywoodruff960 , Thanks a lot for getting back to me. Allow me to share more information. I have a 3-in-1 transducer mounted at the back, at the transom. Everything works nicely and as expected when I go forward. I can see the heading line in red and my direction/course line in blue (or the opposite, I cannot recall which colour is which) on my map. If I start going forward these lines will start overlapping at one point, which is good and expected. If I turn my engine off and let the drift/current carry me downstream, I will have the heading line pointing upstream, and the course line pointing downstream - so in opposite directions, which is good and expected. I also calibrated Point 1 properly (went in circles with my boat etc), and it's showing the direction I'm heading at really well when I go forward. I aim at something with my eye and the heading line extends through that target on the map. So it works great. Everything works great - until I start going in reverse. Then, my heading direction does not seem to affect the waypoint creation process at all - as if only the course one has some role in it. Imagine a river that flows in one direction, and I go upstream and shut the engine off at one point, I will start to go downstream while having the front of my boat headed upstream. If I then mark something on the left side of the boat, the waypoint will be created on the right side of the boat as if the system thinks I'm heading downstream front-faced, without taking what Point 1 tells it, and my heading direction into consideration. To be honest, this was a big surprise and one would expect this has to be "taken into consideration" during waypoint creation. This might be a faulty solution by Lowrence - but I'd like to know if there's a fix for it. This could happen if you use trolling motor and push your boat in reverse on a lake etc. I hope my notes are clear enough, Thank you

I will check that out for you when I get on the water. I do reverse drifts a lot, especially on the St Lawrence, and I've never seen the issue,

@@garrywoodruff960 Great! As you mentioned, if you find a really nice point or structure you will be able to try and reproduce the issue. In fact, try to go forward, click on the spot, and then go backwards for some time and click on the very same spot, the points on the map should be on the opposite sides of the boat. Just to be clear, I am making these waypoints by clicking on either left or right side of the boat while in sideview mode, Thanks!

I'll let you know what I find out, if I have the same issue, how I reproduced it, and if I can find a solution or workaround.

Thank you. I do have a couple more intros done, I just need to get the boat in the water to finish them. It is hard to launch by myself right now.

No. The red wire is connected a fuse block that is run with 8 AWG wire back to a separate electronics battery. The Yellow is connected to output side of a SSR (solid state relay) with the accessory switch on the control side of the SSR to turn it on/off. This isolates the yellow wire and AT module from the boat battery. If you look at the video on the 5 ways to control the active target, this is the last method that I detail in that video. Thank you for watching the video and commenting.

Also, if you look at the Community tab on my channel page, scroll down (about 10 months back). You will find the circuit diagram that I use.

Since you wired your Active Target module red and yellow wire together, when power is supplied then the module will turn on. The red/green blinking light on the power LED is normal and indicates that the module is powered and ready to operate. This is the sequence: the power LED is off, then when power is first applied and the yellow wire is also powered the LED turns solid green, when it is ready then it turns to red/green flashing. I show how it should look in my latest video on Active Target No Source. To have your HDS unit wake up the AT module, you need to connect the Yellow wire from the module to the Yellow wire of the HDS unit. So when the HDS is turned on the module is also turned on. Both the power cords should have the red wire connected through a proper sized fuse to the battery. And the black wires get connected directly to ground. The Ethernet LED should occasionally blink, that indicates network traffic. Normally the module will have transducer LED at green when it is connected. I have not noticed if it is also green without the transducer connected but it might be just to indicate that the circuit is functioning. I was thinking about doing a short video that shows the module in operation from power off to power on and back off. Would that be useful for you?

Thanks Stan. I hope that people find it useful.

Thank you.

That Ranger is a Z522D. There is no Ranger or other major brand that is as capable in the big waters that I run with a bass boat style configuration. And it performs well in the shallows as well. If they made something equivalent then I would consider replacing it, until then not a chance. And is it 100 percent paid for. And there is one major issue that I with the R boat design, the step to front deck is too tall unlike earlier Rangers. That seems very Nitro-like to me. It doesn't sound like you have watched any of my other videos about controlling or powering the AT or S3100 module, but the ACC switch is only used to turn on the wake up (yellow) wire. It has nothing to do with powering the module, only enabling it. I can assure you that the signal that I get is as clean as you'll see. And given that I didn't show any AT images since the boat was in my driveway during recording, it is hard to make any comparison.

@garrywoodruff960 Vexus part walleye part fish n ski part bass boat. On the Great Lakes and St.lawrence Vexus does ride better then my 520R which is saying alot and I have never been a Ranger Fan but the big water bass boat may just be build by Charger Bass boats and is actually a bass boat. But I was just ribbing you on the boat boat my buddy had a 2016 and carried replacement 1234 panel switches with him all the time. Oh it's a wake up switch I will ask them about that.

You do know that the chief designer of Vexus also designed the 522D. That's why there are a bunch of similarities. Ranger was supposed to put in air ride seats but never did. So they went into the Vexus boats. I put them in my boat and worth every penny (or is that dollar with the inflation). And my boat was supposed to be the last D boat made, and that was in a special run that they did. I've only had to replace one switch panel and that was a bow panel on my Z21 years ago. I even had a spare keypad that I gave to a buddy. Make sure that you Ride system is updated to the latest patch level. They should know about it. Or else I would wonder a lot. I have a video on controlling the AT module that might be useful to watch if you are not sure about the various options of controlling the module. I have mine switched so I can turn it off when I'm not using it. And I try to rig the boats that I do with that option. For example, I turn it off on the Potomac since it's usually not needed in the shallows.

@garrywoodruff960 you are right about the Vexus / Ranger and l most definitely have updated my Ride system. Makes on wonder about Lowrance...

The Ride is an interface system so there are a lot of "moving parts" and sometimes they don't talk to each other. And if the NMEA 2000 bus goes down, so does the Ride system. That happened on a 621 that I was working on. The NMEA died on it due to water infiltration and took the whole NMEA bus down. Fortunately, removing the plug from the back of the bad unit and everything was back up and running. And then we found a bad livewell sensor. It's such fun debugging a boat sometimes. Although it's easier than a computer program that I did for years. But my dealer, Anglers Choice, deals directly with Ranger on Ride issues before other dealers even know about any issues.

Thank you. It took a bit to put it together and I still forgot a few things that could have gone in. I've helped a lot of folks with this problem so I thought that it would be best to share the knowledge and help more people. I'm glad that you liked it.

Had endless problems. Even sent it to warranty. Everyday. Sometimes several times a day no source. I resolved the problem by replacing it with Garmin ultra 2 and live scope plus.

I'm sorry to hear that. The Garmin is a decent unit. But there must be a fundamental problem somewhere that is causing the issue. If you were closer I could have a look at it. Thanks for watching the video.

Thank you, I'm glad that you found it useful. I like to have everything setup to be easy to use. That way I worry about driving the boat and catching fish not tuning and fiddling around with the unit settings. Thanks again for watching.

Thank you. Thanks for being a subscriber.

Thanks Glenn. I believe there is and I will check for you tomorrow and let you know.

Thanks Stan. Actually I had shot this to go into another longer video but then I thought that it would get lost there. So I just processed it and put it out there. This is one of little tricks that a lot of people don't know. And thanks for watching, I appreciate it.

Thanks for watching the video. In order for the module to receive the wakeup signal from a unit, a circuit must be completed on the yellow wire from the unit to the module. In order to have a circuit both positive (wakeup signal) and ground must be connected to allow for current flow to trigger the module. While there is very little current required for the wakeup signal, you must complete the circuit to get it to work. (basic electrical theory). At one point I did experiment using the boat accessory switch which ran on the main battery to control the wakeup signal on the module (run on the electronics battery). They did not share a ground. I saw intermittent module activation, this was probably due to ground leakage from some circuit in the boat even though the batteries were isolated from each other. That is one reason that I use the solid state relay when I connect to the boat accessory switch even if they are powered by the same battery. This allows a simple upgrade to a separate battery for the electronics in the future without modification of the wakeup control circuit.

Hi, you're welcome I'm glad that the video was useful for you. Unfortunately the HDS Live units cannot perform the Sync function with the Active Target 2 module. One way to clear up the image is to stop all of the Sonars on the boat including side/down imaging. If you put your console unit(s) in standby that will turn of the transducers. If you have a transducer connected to your Live unit then you can stop the sonar and downside on their respective pages. That is a bit inconvenient but it will help the screen. The other way is to adjust the Contrast on the Active Target menu and reduce it. You will have to experiment to get the best compromise for image quality and fish detection. Less contrast will show less fish and reduce the range that you can see fish. When I was running Live units with first generation Active Target, I was running the contrast at a higher value to see fish. And I just ignored the ghost tree on the screen. Also, make sure that you have the latest update for the Active Target as well. I have seen improvements in the images with the newer updates. Now that I finally have my boat back I can simulate a Live unit by turning off the sync and see if I can find something else that may help getting rid of the tree.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thank you very much

You're welcome.

Thank you! I do like the rings too. They really help you gauge distances quickly. I'm glad that you liked the video.

Hi, I'm glad that was what you wanted in the video. It was a great idea, so thank you for the suggestion. And I can make a video with that combination. It will have to be with a 3in1 as that's all I have on my boat to test with.

Perfect it’s what I have as well. I have to restart my unit after running on plane to switch sources to side scan. I know there is a better way. a better w

That's odd that you have to do a restart, I've never had to do that. So I'll make sure that I cover the operation of displaying side scan for you. I also have to run the old 3-in-1 transducer for my boat so I'll probably video that as well. When I get done I'll have a 3-in-1 HD on the starboard side and a 3-in-1 on the port side.

I figured it would be auto read but I’m running a 16 hds pro. Have the TH trans in blue running 3n1 hd on outer side. When I’m done running at high speed I have to hit sonar multi source and to switch it has to restart

It should. I have my sonar to set the through hull transducer and I can switch to other sources without an issue. My depth is set to Local on the unit. And the unit is multisource as well. I can change the sonar source either via the panel select on the sonar page or the network settings panel. I'm running 12 Pros. Yes, it does have to restart to get out of or into multi source mode but you should not have to change the mode. I'll play around with that today now that I am finally back with my boat.

Thanks Stan. I'm happy with how well it turned out. Thanks for watching!!!

Thank you. I'm glad that you liked the intro as I was trying something different that I have seen in a bunch of videos lately. I'll let GoGo know of your wishes. And thanks again for watching and being an active subsciber.

Yes. If you look at the second take video, all of the settings are the same. And the transducers are located on the same boat, so they are getting the same images ( or very close, they are separated by a little over a foot.)

Hi, I used a 10 AWG black wire with #8 10-12 ring terminal connectors on both ends. I connected one end to the screw on the Active Target module. (I didn't use the provided connector) I then connected the other end to a negative (ground) on the fuse block. This works well on freshwater installations. For the TwinVee installation, which is a saltwater boat, I connected the case ground to the boat bonding system that has an anode at the stern. BTW Do you still have your Z21? I had one for 10 years, it was a good boat for me until I had the transom fail on Lake Champlain. Ranger repaired it.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thank you so much, no I traded my Z21 and get brand new Range z520r in June this year. I like it my z21 yes I have same issue with transom and my insurance pays for repairs 2 years ago. I really like it my new z520r and enjoying fishing on lake St Clair Michigan. I like it your videos really helped me to understand and make unity work properly, thank you very much

You're welcome. I'm glad that the videos help. The R boat is pretty nice. I have a 522D. And I run mainly on Lake Champlain, Lake Ontario, and the St Lawrence River. I love the rough water ride but I do miss the speed (lost over 10 mph) in tournaments. I've on been to St Clair once about 15-17 years ago.

Thank you. And thanks for watching.

Thanks. I tried to share why and how. I'd hate if someone smoked their boat when it could have easily been prevented.

Yes, very close for those conditions and ranges. I'm going to try to compare on different water bodies. And experiment with different depths and ranges.

You're welcome. I'm glad that you found the video useful. I just used this same technique in the Elite FS/Active Target 2 video. I installed one of the rocker switches that I showed in the video since it had a LED indicator to let the owner know that it was turned on. Weight savings in a kayak is very important. Let me know how it works out.

Hi, you can run both. You will get some interference from the two transducers. This usually starts about where the sonar cones intersect. For example on a boat with a bow transducer and an in-hull transducer, at about 18' for a 21' boat, you will start to get interference between the 2 transducers. That was showing up as large angled vertical lines on the sonar page. Running different frequencies and/or modes on the transducers will help to minimize the crosstalk. When I get my boat back home, I have a video planned on transducer noise. On my boat, I have 2 in-hull transducers and 2 external hull transducers mounted on my jackplate. They are connected to both my 3100 module and my Pro unit on the console. So I will easily be able to show the interference issues. And hopefully what you can do to mitigate the problem. Right now, because I am using the SYNC features in the S3100 module and HDS Pro, I do not see any interference in the transducers. If I turn off the SYNC feature on the Pro, I do see it with sidescan. I will spend more time looking at the various combinations when I do the video. (Hopefully in the next month.)

@@garrywoodruff960 Thank You Gary...! Look forward to the video

You're welcome. And I liked your latest drone video, I need to fly mine a lot more.

Hi, unfortunately the Elite Ti2 does not support depth shading with the built-in maps. You have to run a C-MAP chip (e.g. Discover map chip), which supports depth shading, According to the manual, if you have the C-MAP chip inserted and selected then depth shading is enabled. I would test it out for you as I have the Discover chip but no Ti2 units available. Most likely those menu options are not available until you select the chip much like some of the Navionics map options. This is the link to the Elite Ti2 manual, see page 38: softwaredownloads.navico.com/Lowrance/FTP/Lowrance_Software%20-%20Copy/Documents/ELITE-Ti2_OM_EN_988-12259-001_w.pdf And thanks. I appreciate you watching the video.

@@garrywoodruff960 thank you for your detailed answer! I will check it out

You're welcome. Let me know how it works out for you.

Thank you. I appreciate you watching and commenting.

Thanks Scott. I appreciate you watching the video(s).

Hi Ben. Thanks for the watching the videos and subscribing. What configuration do you have? Does this happen randomly or does it always show up? I assume that you have checked the LEDs on the Active Target 2 module. The power should be flashing green to yellow, this indicates that the module has booted up and is ready. The Ethernet LED should be flashing when one or more of the other units are turned on and are on the same network. Once I know what configuration that you have, I can suggest steps to fix this problem.

@@garrywoodruff960 thank you so much for responding! I was trying to find an email for you earlier, so figured I’d just comment on here. 1) NSS EVO3S (two of them) 2) AT2 module- power is flashing amber/green, Ethernet led flashing, sonar solid 3)force updated both the MFD and AT2 4) Tried “restore default” technique I’ve seen on a bunch of RU-vid I’m seriously so bummed. It’s a brand new boat and I was just so excited to finally purchase AT2, and so far it’s been a big paper weight!

I'm also on Facebook and Instagram.

@@garrywoodruff960 I sent you a message over on Facebook! Might be in your “message request” folder

Hi Ben, I'm glad that we got it working for you. Good luck with the new boat. And if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.