HI, I'm Peter Shersby, I'm sharing my experiences making and repairing (sometimes destroying) all sorts of things. These are often electronic but might also include woodwork, metalwork, plastics, ceramics, photography - anything that takes my fancy. Of course anyone into making or repairing things also likes the odd tear down, tools and reviews; so there will be plenty of that too.
Follow me on Twitter or Facebook for latest updates: twitter.com/PeterShersby Donations help the channel keep running- paypal.me/PeterShersby
Nice fix, eventually. I was expecting to see a mechanical obstruction after experiencing it myself so many times over the years. It is just downto how the meter reacts, as if someone has slammed on the brakes. Karl.
Yes, I was looking in the wrong direction for a while (although most of the other work needed doing anyway so nothing lost), I took a look at the oscillator and it was clipping, and I though the output amp might be doing the same - "check the meter" sprang to mind several times, but there was always another idea to check.
Yes, I'd like to do it. Normally I would have PCBs manufactured, but since it is a single sided one-off, I would make it myself! I need to take a look and see if I can find everything I need and if so a short video should arrive soon.
I would like a quick check of the 74 logic chips, like those used in my frequency counter. With the Tl866 tester: can you just plug the IC into the socket and get a go/ no go result, without hooking up to a computer?
This is why the manual and yellow caution label on the side tells folks never to hold the body while making connections. Hard to do sometimes since its just so tempting but this seems to be a possible case of that bad habit. Not 100% sure though. How the other wire didn't break is a mystery. Nice fix though. Great explanation as always.
everything seems to slow over time, clean reinstall often helps but even things like browsers have so much code, sometimes added in updates they struggle. in hardware terms options on an old laptop are limited. check the little fan and vent holes are clear and get some software to chech processor and memory speed. after that no ideas
Thanks for this video. My iboost has jist failed with the same issue. Given the number of RU-vid videos that diagnose the same bridge rectifier fault, i was wondering if over speccing the replacement with a KBPC3516WP might be a good idea, what do you think? Also do you have a part number for the replacement fuse you used? Thanks again for the brilliant video.
I didn't spot that one when I was searching for an alternative I was proably mislead by the photo having the wrong footprint. It's hard to know exactly why it is failing, you would have thought the spec they use would be adequate but overspec is certainly appealing. My fear is that it is heat that is the problem or an unexpected transient but given that imersion heaters are largely resistive, I don't get it. The forward voltage drop is fairly significant in these packages at more than 5A current and that translates into a fair amount of heat particulalry if the iboost is in an enclosed warm space, (that would derate it and the ability of the heatsink a little). That said, the device you are looking at seems to be specified to quite high junction temperature. So as well as over-spec on the bridge rectifier, perhaps try for a good quality heatsink paste and apply thinly and evenly as possible - I would try it but just make sure they send the right footprint! Regarding fuse I did find it a bit marginal on the hole size (the lead on the 16A fuse is 1.2mm diameter) so you might be better seeing if you can find one with a slightly thinner lead although I managed it just! Digikey 507-2140-ND Bel Fuse inc 0ADKP9160-RE 16 A 600 V AC 500 V DC Fuse Cartridge, Ceramic Through Hole 5mm x 20mm (Axial) Pretty sure you can get it from mouser too.
I have an iboost on a 4kw solar edge system without battery storage. In summer it heats my hot water and I turn my boiler off. I do have a 20 year FIT tariff. It allows me to use most of the solar I generate. I'd rather have battery storage but at 70 years old cannot justify the extra cost. Ive had the system 10 years and its paid for itself. Since im retired and bake my own bread I structure my day for oven, washing machine and dryer in daylight hours. I make about £700-£800 per year from theFit tariff. In winter the solar isn't worth having. Its not ideal but that's the best I can do without further investment. My electricity bill is quite low and I pay £75 month for gas and electricity. In winter around £125/ month. It takes around 8-10kwh of electricity to heat the water cylinder which is double insulated or 20kw worth of gas. In winter I don't heat with gas or electric but a multi fuel 8kw stove. The iboost uses pulse width modulation to vary the available export energy/ power iup to the maximum load rating of the emersion heater. My emersion heater is only 1.5 kw and the iboost can handle up to 3kw. Ive had it 4 years and it saves a lot of gas in summer. In winter its useless but so is the solar. I live in the north of England and in previous years have made around 3.4mwh from solar. Because of the lousy weather this year I expect to be down on production due to cloud. toping out around 2.7 Mwh. around 700 kwh down which equates to nearly £170 in fit return.
if you have FIT then the diverter should easily pay for itself. I know what you mean about the weather - my production figures are horrible this year so far.
I have an issue similar to another comment here. Display states "Water Tank Hot", when it isnt. To br honest over the past few weeks if not heard the fan kick in when its supposedly heating the water from the solar panels. Again mine is out of warranty by 7 weeks, where the on-line retailer Heater Shop seem to be passing the buck to the manufacturer. Ive emailed both Heater Shop and Marlec regrading this product not lasting reasonable period of time under Sale of Good Act or Consumer act 2015, so will be interesting to see what the outcome will be.
I have an issue similar Display states "Water Tank Hot", when it isnt. To be honest over the past few weeks iv not heard the fan kick in when its supposedly heating the water from the solar panels. Again mine is out of warranty by only 7 weeks, where the on-line retailer Heater Shop seem to be passing the buck to the manufacturer. Ive emailed both Heater Shop and Marlec regarding this, due to the product not lasting a reasonable period of time, so will be interesting of the outcome?
Yes will be interesting, and i would say this probblem and rectifier blowing seem common so might be worth notifying a gov dept, ot sure who it is at the moment, and if you have no luck there is a consumer rights ombudsman and feek free to refer them to comments for this video, where there is plenty of evidence, and im only a small channel
I said that Gold melting point is low, but it is about 1000C, the problem is that this "gold wire" is an alloy and when you add solder it melts very easily.
It's always intersting to see how complicated a seemingly simple device can get if you start to consider all the little details. Anyways, great build, it looks very clean, I like how you constructed your case from scratch.
Yes, in this instace the detail really added upto a big improvement, for a lot more effort, but not much more expense. I knew i was being a bit sloppy with the first build, but thought it would be good enough. The difference in ver 2 was startling, version 1 would have annoyed me every use..
Always worries me buying obsolete from Aliexpress, counterfiet is a big problem particularly with repairing current equipment that is left unattended. I would probably go for the subsitute from a reputable supplier after checking the datasheet very carefully unless there is little choice.
I thought I had included that in the video but evidently it did not make the cut. FGH40T65UPD which is 650V, 40A Field Stop Trench IGBT, it seems to be obsolete but the parametric equivalent is NGTB40N65FL2WG (at least according to Digikey). Obviously you can still get the datasheet and find a superior device if you want.
It is the fakes I discovered one split-second prior to my hitting Purchase on Scamazon's notes "Sold by Scamazon" & "Shipped by Scamazon" two each of the decades inactive obsolete long-gone out-of-stock, $100/IC if one can find any anywhere Intersil's ICL8038 and Exar's XR2206 Frequency/Signal Generator kits are selling by Scamazon" the weird part, aside from the cute falling off the desk rounded brand... I just plunked $100 on a VI Semiconductor dual curve tracer for my $85 2ch handheld oscilloscope and an IC Tester, the 1000+ type gizmo a few different variants are on the market. none of these look familiar, but my phone does not allow me to see the notes yet. And RU-vid will wipe this typing if I see it now. ;-) THANK YOU! PS Rigol DHO9x4 is up next.
Scamazon & FraudBay have been squeezing nickels out from unsuspecting electronics hobbyists for , well, forever, most notably my go-to Frequency/Signal generators from 40 years ago with my first "I will create the "Twent-cent device that will save so many lives I can sell it for, hmmm, $500US" I have been hunting in this arena for two years at least as I rebuild my 'bench' 40 years post my previous one. Think of the prophet!!! marginal humor injection, that Pace looks familiar, except that this particular shape oddly-enough squirts from my fingers faster than a watermelon seed, violating the warranty when it inevitably flys-apart revealing an empty case with a skin-thick fake display with random numbers generated fooling me into believing there are exactly ZERO trustworthy corporations ANYWHERE. humynity is PHUCKED! 47 years left, folks Exar's XSR2206 & Intersil's ICL8038 kits are b ogus, though one intrepid explorer has reigned supreme over the dooky spreaders FraudAzon and ScamBay truly are. Out out out foul demon-spawn! Your Greed-Driven Money-Grubbing Morally-Bankrupt Crazed-Fantasy you need to be able to afford your dead-end trip to Mars, thank me later, but get to work Preventing the Premature-Pull Date right up ahead. Your outfit becomes you only while wearing tight-fitting 100% lead shoes underwater. then the air supply hose is severed and Earth flies around the Solar System like a deflating balloon that just popped.
I had to make the front trim in 4 parts because it is too big for my printer. I will have JLC3D print a pair of full size, one front/one back in a nicely textured nylon - they work out at US $18 for the pair after taking one of the discount vouchers that they just give away!
The original is fine, but the new version is more polished and far better to use - as a comparison - think cronky old voltmeter vs. nice digital multimeter; they both work, but I know which I prefer!
bought one of these, but since I didn't pay attention to the description, I ended up buying the 220V version. Does anyone know what modification needs to be made to use it with 110V ?
Not sure, but I suspect the first issue is the resitors and capacitors at the mains input, they are goint to form a voltage divider to get roughly the right voltage to power the logic, then pass that along to a zener or regulator. That might be all that is needed but not sure about the heating elements... A dicey proposition I think.
Sorry it took a while to reply. To my recollection there was a mix of #2 and #1 in the back, #2 on the left, #1 where all the cables are bunched together. If you are having to buy them then get a pair with a normal 4-5 inch long shaft, not interchangable tips which have a wider shaft. They will then be useful for any recessed screws like the recessed ones in the front. They can be taken out with #2 but I think #1 is the right size.
Absolutely! on a proper LCR meter the lower DC resistance makes the equation calculate the Capacitance as higher. I have seen some fairly extreme examples of that like 2200uF reporting as over 6000uF (in a power supply that blew the fuse). I have mentioned it in a couple of my later videos and have been pondering doing a video showing how the phase shift is used to calculate the capcitance in an LCR meter and how low DC resistance affects it - would that be worthwhile do you think.
It depends how other colours have been applied. If they have been painted of diffusion dyed then maybe, but if it is multi-coloured plastics then unlikely, remember the process reverses the chemical degradation that has occurred. If you are concerned then you could use a hair paste containing the peroxide or mask the areas you want untouched with a waterproof tape or you can get paint on masking fluids like latex. I would probably just give it a go and check from time to time.
I would be incredibly cautious. In good condition these are fairly high priced and need looking after. It looks to me like a transfer or print method used to apply the red. You could perhaps try an inconspicuous spot if there is one.
my korad kel103 works when in the 230v position but not in 115v? also usb and ethernet not working any help . if not im going to have to return thanks in advanced
Not sure what to suggest. I have seen quite a bit of discussion about problems getting comms to behave, i recall having quite a faf to get mine working, just can't remember the details. 230 vs 115 sounds like a problem with the switching.
A very clever solution for the attenuation issue! My speaker dummy load needs are not nearly so elaborate as yours. In considering my needs, desires and functions, I was ending up requiring a lot of expensive switches and components. It occurred to me that all I needed was the resistors and some means to connect them, conveniently. I ended up just mounting the various resistors on a heat sink and terminating each, individually, to banana socket eyelets. These eyelets are mounted on the front panel. I can achieve any combination of resistors, with jumper wires. I can also access the signal at any point with my test gear. For my needs, this arrangement will work quite adequately. I also mounted it in my DIY e-load case, which had lots of spare room. This makes use of its fan and power supply for both types of loads. So, there is economy, there, as well. I ended up with a universal load center, of sorts. <grin>
First attempt was mainly things on hand. Switch cost is certainly an issue. I thought about 2 and 1 ohm as well, but it gets costly. I might think about it with relays in future. But what normally happens is I keep thinking how I could make it better, then it gets too expensive.
Nice project! The quant asylum load seems to be shooting for 12db attenuation, how come you're aiming for higher? Is it you want to test at higher power? Have you thought about having a multi-tap? Say 10/20/40 dB attenuation steps? Then you can maximise your analysers dynamic range. Keep up the good work!
The main reason is that when testing amps with faults, I want attenuation before the analyser to help keep it safe. On thevanalyser 0 to 12db all uses same attenuation but changes the full-scale, so these impact dynamic range. The next step adds in an Attenuator at the front end but with 100k input impedance that has a big impact on the noise floor. Putting a specific attenuation in the low impedance load gives attenuation with much lower noise impact than the internal attenuation. I lose almost 40dBv of range, but no impact on noise. Using internal attenuation I would lose 24dBv range but the analyser noise floor goes up a lot. Perhaps I'll try and explain it in pt2.
Forgot about the multi-tap. Yes that would be a good idea thanks. I might add it later. I also intend to add a protective limiter on the output just in case.
Thanks for the reply! Regarding the 12db, I meant the external load available from quant asylum, rather than the analysers internal attenuator. Interesting that exists though!
It is completely usable for testing most amplifiers, just doing another version with a little more attention to detail! Not bothering to show the build because it is all chassis mounted and will depend on what parts are salvaged - stick it in a box and wire it up!
Hey! I got a 2nd hand machine which is not working. When opening up (I was gentle) I saw to ripped wires. I guess these are temperature sensors as the machine never reaches 93 despite heating the entire time. Found a res wire from the "motherboard" which I thind the red wire was connected. But the blue one I have no idea. Can you help please? Thx
Very interesting. Had some very weird experiences with some. Mostly low power draws make them acting that weird that the value tended to be 50 or 60% off sometimes. What I would do then is to add a regular like 60 Watt light bulb and measure that way after things stabilized. My 'trusty' one that I used for a long time has just giving me some odd readings so I was wondering around RU-vid again. 211V while the multimeter (multiple) says around 238V. Seems I can probably throw this one away as well. I've seen people do funny things trying to save on their electricity bill. You should measure these wifi smart plugs or lights. Knowing that some people have like 20 or so of these devices in the house up and running for 24 hours a day while they will unplug a phone charger that consumes 0.5W when just plugged in. I actually wonder if they might use a wifi smart plug to shut these things down when not charging a phone.
I'm trying to get around to looking at the issues with low power devices. I have not found a cheep device that can measure them well. The issue with low power is that the digitisation loses precision as you get towards the bottom so even if you do get a reading it can be 40-100% inacurate. I've also seen a request regarding what power do they measure down to and I'm going to try and do a video about that if I can get to it. If it can't even measure the voltage properly then all bets are off! I did measure a smart plug at some point and it wasn't impressive!
@@MakeOrRepair Well they need to be able to measure an imense range of current/power. It's like measuring a Voltage between 1 and 2 Volt on a 10.000V range setting. Probably you could calibrate it by filing down the shunt or adding extra solder on it as a matter of speech. Of course that 211V instead of the real 238V was a not so good thing. I have now ordered the same type of smart switch (Tuya) in Zigbee. So when I will get it I will compare it to the BT model. From what I've heard is that Zigbee uses a lot less power. Lets wait and see.
@@Luke-san Yes exacly - dynamic range is the problem - no resolution left at the bottom end - I have a lab grade power meter that goes from about 20kW down to the micro watt - but it does it by switching between many current shunts depending what sort of range it is measuring. OF course it is massive and costs a fortune! It would be great if there was a low cost meter that had say two shunts so it could auto range down into the mW range without sacrificing too much rsolution and accuracy. The design is not much more on top of what is already there, but of course it would add about £5 to the cost and they lose competitiveness.
I have an issue with ours that the steam wand pump starts running as soon as we switch on the machine, but is just running dry. I replaced the pump, but it seems fine, just keeps running dry. Any suggestions what to check?
Descaling soulds possible, just try draining the steam boiler using the little screws on the front. The output of the pump must go to some sort of pressure releif valve, so check that the water is not just cycling back into the hot water tank
Hi, top work by the way, very helpful, my coffee machine as the same as thru one your working on, it's not despencing much water to the coffee side and it sounds like very louder than normal and not much water coming out at all, the hot water side is ok, any thoughts on the best place to start?
It might just be scaled up I suppose. Or the bypass valve possibly. If that is weak then water goes through the pump and directly back tot he water tank. There could be problems with other blockeage int he dispensing head, try taking the shower screen out just one screwn and give it a good wash. After that things get more complicated such as various solenoid valves.
Hi - we have a solar array and iBoost, but NO batteries. Does our immersion have to be permanently ON for the system to work, or should we have a timer for the immersion? thanks - very useful video. Greg
The iboost will only heat water when the sun is out and you are exporting. So you also need some other way to heat in days when the iboost is not enough or to top up the heat when needed. Mine is both gas heated and has an immersion, so the iboost is connected to immersion without timer, it heats during the day if there is enough sun, then the gas heating runs at 6am to ensure we have a full tank fir morning showers etc.
Hi - we have a solar array and a iBoost ie no batteries. Does the immersion have to be switched permanently ON for the system to work or should the immersion be on a timer? many thanks - BTW great video! Greg
The voltage and current outputs of almost all bugdet testers are completley inadequate to properly test most MOSFETs except the tiny ones, they just dont test enough range. I've several faulty transistors that I eventually found and other than very expensive curve tracers none of the budget testers could find the fault.
No sorry, I avoid these except family/friends and charity since i retired, don't wan to further complicate my tax or have to deal with additional rates, insurace etc
Hi. I just wanted to say “thank you” for posting this review. It has made me stop and think whether it is worth putting an iboost in. I was just planning on doing it , having recently had PV panels and batteries installed. Your excellent video has made me stop and do some calculations . Much appreciate, thanks again.
nice teardown, seems like a bad design, too bulky.... i have seen something very nice from weller with a multitude of choice for a detachable twizers part that has a connector to connect to a single main unit/handle and then connect the handle to a station.
12:52 Hello Peter- fantastic video! You helped me trouble shoot my beloved Oracle. I placemarked this part of the video to reference that i have a leak of hot water that is between the grinder and the boiler. In this shot, it appears to be directly below the yellow wire. I hear steam hissing and can see a small amount of water accumulating in the bottom of the Oracle. Before I subject my pocketbook to Breville repair service, i was wondering if the part is even accessible without tearing the machine apart? Thanks in advance!
Well, hard to say, not quite sure which part is leaking. I think there is a solenoid valve in that area and possibly a pipe to the side. I would have a look around and see exactly where the leak originates, it might be there is an easy to remove part that will give enough access. If is a temp sensor or pipe, you might be able to get to clip and replace oring using long bent nose pliers or forceps.
Why would it ever take fro, the battery when it is triggered by exported energy? When the sun goes down there is no solar so you are running off battery and there is no export therefore the iBoost should be triggered to engage your immersion. No complicated sensing or algorithms required. Or have I misunderstood something?
If it is using all the exported energy which is the excess solar, then the exported energy now reads zero, so when the sun goes in the inverter keeps the export at zero by using the batteries. The iboost does not have any means to know, as far as it is concerned it is just right, no idea that 3kw is from battery instead of panel. So it looks like the algorithm allows a little to always export, e.g. 100w so when the inverter switches to battery after a while the iboost realises it is taking too much and drops 100w, then the inverter reduces battery drain by 100w to match and this adjustment happens roughly every 20s, so if the iboost was allowing 3kW to the immersion then it takes almost 10 minutes before it shuts off, that is why I played with the threshold in the video, to make it work in bigger steps.
It was only thing I could afford at the time too. I don't think it helped me electronics, but the ability ti at least see something was a big step in the right direction I suppose.
Thanks this video =) I have clutch problem, my PHILIPS EL3558. No manual no service-manual tell what kind rubber is in. All rubber are melt, like you have. No I know more. Maybe I use O-Ring for his??? or half and glued in place.
Glad it helped. Sadly had to sell it, I have pretty much used every inch of space, if only I had room to keep more. I would set up a vintage test bench.
Good point, i'll try and do a follow-on and figure it out and also how accurate are the low readings. everything is taking a long time to get to at the moment.
(Its a very similar model )I have the same problem but its the winding gear he is complety destroyed and worn i am trying to make a adaptation with metal pieces
Sounds pretty difficult to me, but I've previously made hinges for log burners and reciprocating parts for hedge trimmers from stock metal, so nothing is beyong the determined repairer!! No parts or spares available on ebay that you could salvage from? No idea of price but JLCPCB does metal 3d printing that might do the job if you have the 3D modelling skills.
@@JoaoVictor-pb1ji Sorry, had forgotten what thee winding gear was like. If it will come out and is suffieciently intact to measure I might be temmpted to go the 3D route, even in a tough nylon like material they are proably farily low cost to have printed. Alternatively making it up with molding putty and casting a new piece, but both are tricky if you don't have the equipment or necessarily the experience. Attemtping to add some repair to it looks a bit tricky given the type of material used. Anyway, still wishing you luck with it.
