To stop the newer "round body" Stihl backpack fogger from leaking pesticide down your back, replace the positive pressure 3/8"id x 1/2"od x 10" tycoon tubing line inside the tank and double up on the rubber gaskets with the smooth sides facing one another. Better than new.
Love the Leatherman Wave. Picked up free 125B and replaced the carb, fuel lines, coil that was bad and fixed broken shut off wire. Still it seems to not rev as high as I think it should. I imagine it whining up like my chain saws.
Leatherman makes the best tools in my opinion everyone should have one. Don’t expect that little handheld blower to very high big fan with no gear reduction. Don’t expect it to like a chainsaw.
Hi. I'm kinda want to do it right as I got this bv blower running. And got it blowing good. Not bog down anyways. Its close but not sure I'm actually adjust fuel air correct. I'm guessing.
He is not telling me what he is doing and what the items are that he is working on. He is not describing anything as he works. Lots of background talking and noise.
I've been using Mobil 1 in 2 sets of Honda outboards 1 has around 2000 hrs the other 1500 with no problems and very good compression. Had a very good Honda/ Yamaha tech tell me he thought Mobil 1 was better than anything else because of its sticky lubricating qualities and it's ability to withstand water and fuel contamination. Also found this; The corrosion control additives in motor oil are zinc and phosphorous. Both have been ramped down over time in automotive oils because they damage catalytic converters as engines wear out and begin to burn oil. They are still present, just at lower levels (diesel rated oils still have higher levels.) However, being a nerd I sent off a sample of Suzuki branded FC-W 10w40 synthetic oil to Blackstone Labs for analysis (they test oils for trucking companies to see how engines are wearing.) A buddy did the same for Yamalube 10w30. Short answer... both of them had the same zinc and phosphorous levels as your average automotive oil, and the Suzi oil was pretty weak in other anti-wear and detergent additives. Mobil 1 will have the same level of anti-corrosion additives that we found in Suzuki and Yamaha FC-W oil, and as good or better anti-wear and detergent additives. So will plain yellow bottle Penzoil or blue bottle Chevron. Yamaha, Suzuki, Mercury, Honda, etc... do not make engine oil. They source it from a supplier to meet minimum specs at the lowest bid, then bottle it under their label and sell it through their dealer networks for a large markup. It might be good to buy it to support your local dealer, but it isn't anything special in terms of protecting your engine. You can see my lab results here: www.arimaowners.com/gallery/6/4-250215150438.jpeg Yamaha results here: www.arimaowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=8580.0;attach=12975;image Compare to cheap yellow bottle Penzoil: www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html
Hey :) Great video! Saw you're looking for feedback and I can give my two cents for more efficiency. I think that is much more wood than necessary and those are long planks to haul for some trailers, also extra time consuming angle cuts. I just make a small upside down T out of wood with two screws. Probably 2 pieces of wood cut to 5' for this boat. Use your truckers knot from side to side to hold the wood in place and then Tape some scrap tarp to the top of them and thats the whole post. Then you can strap up the front to back and diagonal corners with truckers hitch knots. Pulling the back of your truck up to the boat or having a mobile cart so you can pull tarp right over the boat and cut it. Instead of making it 2 steps and pulling tarp out, cutting it, then having to move it and bring it over the boat. For bigger boats your measuring method is going to be tough. I measure the width of the boat from the highest point and send the tape measure over a side of the boat to where my band is going to be. Then you just multiply by two. For the heating and tacking the bottom of your shrinkwrap stage and sticking it together, Walk in the direction where you lead with the gun and trail behind with your tapping hand, that glove isnt going to be enough protection from the heat doing this technique. This way you can do the entire side of the boat in one motion without stopping and restarting your gun, which also wears it out faster with more clicks. Just keep tapping and moving, You'll probably get that part done 4x faster. Also personally I dont like buying extra products I dont need to. I just cut triangles out of scrap tarp and tape them on using those as vents. Good work!
Z I’m sorry you ever watched your own video cameras bouncing everywhere radios playing Air compressor’s running yeah you should have this tool don’t show me the tool wow I usually don’t like to meet negative videos but this one is just wow
Always evaluate. Try to fix when it makes the most sense. Retire it as spare parts when it gets worn out. Reliability is most important to commercial landscapers. Not worth rebuilding top end in my opinion.
This video showed me that this something I can’t do myself, seem like u have to have knack for it with all that testing and adjusting. I wouldn’t know what’s perfect rpm
Next to the hose that goes to the sprayer theres another drain port, whats supposed to be there? Had chemicals rain down my back and couldnt find anything.
Thanks for the video. I replaced the carb, and still had my issue. Just like yours. Mine would just die for no reason. Come to find out. It was a bad kill switch.
Question, i see you've fixed the engine trim however the green fuse you switched out said it was for the starter rely? The yellow 20A said Trim switch?
Okay, I'm working on my 2014 Yamaha 90, batteries are good, powers is getting to the starter, relay fuses are good but I'm still getting the clicking noise. Oh, and I replace the key switch a few months back thinking that was the issue. Today I pulled the starter and bench tested with a battery charger, it turned but super slow. Do you think i need a starter?
Put a whole new carb and lines on mine and it runs like crap - worse than before with the old carb. Bogs down and backfires. I am at 5000' and wondering if the new carb is set to sea level and needs to be adjusted to make it run correctly?
You know it's cold as F when the air hose stays coiled after removing from reel. You're a trooper. Sending you some sunshine from sunny Sacramento, Ca. Your video was very helpful.
I bought 1 of these for 5 bucks at a yard sale changed the carburetor and fuel lines started up like a beast used it next day and started boggin I never adjusted the carburetor now I’m waiting for that tool and just in case a whole new kit #2 for 15 bucks
These carbs are impossible to adjust, spent weeks on mine and no luck, either it runs smooth and throttle and cant idle or it starts and bogs out after a few seconds
The SR-450 is a 2-stroke gas/ oil mixed engine. There is no separate engine motor oil. The appropriate 2-stroke oil should be mixed with the gas at a 50:1 ratio. 50 parts gas to 1 part oil. Hope that helps
I got a question. I placed a new carburetor on the same one you got. New fuel lines. It fires and runs but within a few minutes it bogs down when you press the throttle then dies
Fuel lines backwards, carb defective, bad gasket jets not adjusted properly, bad fuel or mixture. Any number of things. Start eliminating the simple possibilities.
It’s an I expensive model I would say homeowner model. Not meant for commercial duty. However, if maintained would last a homeowner a long maybe decade of simple service so long as treated with utmost care regarding the fuel system.
@@alongsideservice3178 found one at a pawn shop for $100 out the door...I have a Stihl br600 , just needed this as something to keep in my truck ....I'm happy with it , used it for an hour yesterday at the lake , blew a million leaves in 20 mph wind , it did a good job
*Exactly what I expected from a brand like Hitachi **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend I’ve only had it a few weeks now, but really happy with what it does. I assume it’s like anything, if you take care of it, it will last along time.*
The screw adjustment on the left is for HIGH and the right side screw LOW. Which do you adjust first because I noticed you mostly made adjustment to LOW not HIGH. Also I saw you making minor adjustment on top. What was that for? Thanks.
Usually setting the high speed first is best. Throttle wide open, adjust for max RPM. Then low speed adjust for max RPM. You may have to do this a few times because sometimes one affects the other.
@@SeanCum732 You are not alone. Wednesday I was up in the woods working and suddenly had glyphosate and sulfometuron methyl down my crack. I barely used this thing!
