Fastway® Trailer Products pioneers and creates industry-leading towing products. The products are built-to-last and eliminate trailer hassles by making it easy to hook up, unhook, change tow vehicles or trailers. Each product is designed and tested in the U.S.A, including built-in sway control hitches, state-of-the-art ball mounts, unparalleled scale measuring, and smarter towing gear. Fastway Trailer Products are the faster and easier towing solutions.
4005 - 3925 = 80 not 75. Same on Rear - 3650 - 2795 = 855 not 845 as your summary shows. The e2 distribution shows load being shifted to trailer axles, but only shows total load. I would have liked to see two scales on each trailer axle - to show that you are overloading the front trailer axle when not level, and with the e2 you are level and distributing the load equally back onto both trailer axles. Do this again to show if the e2 is distributing the trailer axles as well.
I have the top of the line equalizer hitch and it works well when I’m on a nice smooth road, but when it’s rough, the road cause’s bounce and just gets a little squirrelly. I plan to get the lift bags to give it a little more support. It seems on 1/2 ton trucks, it’s just necessary to add some support?
Be sure to take into account how much stretch those cables have before they will disengage the plunger. The coil tension will not provide any ability to achieve that unless the cable is nearly straight. So stretched length adjustment is critical! 😊. I have seen many that will not provide any braking unless the complete hitch fails and drops off the tow vehicle.
When looking at the overall combined weight for the “coupled”, “leveled with airbags”, and “weight distribution” setups - the resulting totals were 11,695, 11,715, and 11,720 lbs. The difference in these numbers is attributed to the precision and accuracy of the wheel scales that we used and is within 0.2%. Being within 0.2% when the precision/accuracy errors of 8 different scales are added together is quite good - especially for our purposes in this demonstration of general principles. Admittedly however, there are some typos and a mistake in the numbers shown which do account for some discrepancies. One of the mistakes is with the baseline trailer axles number which then carries through in the math throughout the video. With the trailer uncoupled we used an additional scale under the jack when measuring the tongue and axle weights. There is a conversion that then needs to be done to get the exact weight at the hitch ball coupler location. We used the converted (actual) tongue weight of 1000 lbs. in the video but forgot to use the converted axle weight. So, the uncoupled or baseline trailer axle number given is 70 lbs. less than the actual. Also, we didn’t add the weight of the spring bars (35 lbs.) to the uncoupled total. With these two corrections the “uncoupled” combined weight should have been 11,690, only 5 pounds different from the “coupled” combined total. The additional discrepancy is due to the precision and inaccuracy of that tongue weight scale that we used. At minute 12:17 in the video - the correct increases to the trailer axles should be 295 lbs. for weight distribution (instead of 365) and 55 lbs. for the airbags (instead of 125). For the airbags, that trailer axle difference should theoretically be zero when leveled. The reason it’s not is due to the trailer not being at the exact same level/angle and the scale precision/accuracy. As the trailer tips down in front then the front axle of the trailer will take a slight bit more load from the tongue weight. In the weight distribution example, some of that weight difference would also be from the trailer angle and scales then also some from spring bar weight. The majority (~250 lbs.) is from the forces of the bars on the trailer for weight distribution. In spite of some unfortunate presentation mistakes in the video, those errors only affect the magnitude of the effects which will be different for each towing setup anyway. The general principles remain the same - 1) Even though airbags are good for vehicle leveling and ride comfort, they do not distribute weight off the rear axle back to the front axle nor achieve all the towing benefits that come with weight distribution and its inherent sway control 2) Weight distribution increases front axle weight for improved steering and handling and also alleviates the weight and stress on the rear axle of the tow vehicle 3) Because weight distribution also levels the vehicles, airbags usually are not necessary when using a weight distributing hitch. Final note, airbags or auto-leveling can be used with weight distribution to improve ride comfort if desired or if auto-leveling cannot be disabled on the vehicle. Keep in mind that increasing airbag pressure or auto-leveling after setting the hitch will decrease weight distribution. Measure the amount of weight distribution after leveling the vehicle and adjust the hitch as needed to maintain the appropriate amount of weight distribution. Refer to the following video for more tips on adjusting your hitch when using airbags or auto-leveling in conjunction with weight distribution - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mj2oqAiltsk.html.
Thanks so much for the research and video! Leaves me curious, weight distribution hitch seems to be the way to go. Does that affect the 60/40 rule though?
The 60/40 rule is an approximation method to get a trailer loaded in the ballpark of what it should be. But it isn’t super reliable either. Whether 60% of your load is far in front of the axles or just in front of the axles could make a big difference to the tongue weight. The real goal is a tongue weight of 10-15% of the total trailer weight for bumper pull trailers. This target is the same with or without weight distribution. The best way to ensure you have 10-15% tongue weight is to actually weigh it. This can easily be done with our Fastway Flash Scale hitch or the Fastway Simple Weigh scale.
Airbags do not have any leverage and cannot replace the weight taken off the TV steering axle when pulling a trailer. A PPP WD hitch, (Hensley or ProPride) moves the fulcrum point from the ball to the TV rear axle, 37 years of using the Hensley Arrow absolutely no trailer sway ever, with a level fully loaded for camping rig. i.imgur.com/9aECWOt.jpg YMMV
That would be a great idea! You can reach out to our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com or call them at 877-523-9103 and they can give that to you!
How is this product even certified! Chains that are too long and dragging would be extremely dangerous and tethering them up in the "chain up " or twist ties or rope or any other way is extremely dangerous. if the trailer were to disconnect it simply would tear such adjustments apart and the tongue of the trailer would end up in the asphalt or !! ...chains are supposed to be just the right length and criss crossed in order to support the tongue OFF the ground in the event of a disconnect !
We agree the Chain-up would not hold (and is not intended to hold) the trailer in the event of detachment. The great benefit of the Chain-up is to help prevent the chains from touching the ground when the trailer is properly connected and driving down the road. There are moments while driving when bumps or driveways can cause even correctly sized chains to touch the ground. Even these quick moments of contact can eventually wear and weaken the chain and create dangerous sparks. The Chain-up is a safety device for driving with the trailer connected. In the event of detachment, the Chain-up will not interfere with the function of the safety chains - to prevent complete separation of the trailer from the tow vehicle.
I've used the chain WD hitch for years on a construction trailer on short wheel based vans with the friction anti swaybar. On Long wheel trucks I did not need the sway bar. Got use to the chain adjustment fairly easily. When setup properly towing is a pleasure. I just bought a new enclosed cargo trailer and the old Huffy would not fit. I would need to cut holes in the floor to link the chains up. Bought a newer style WD hitch setup called a Curt True track #17499 WOW what a pleasure to tow with this! It has square spring bars that allows shorter placement of trailer frame clamps. And this system doesn't use chains. So the anti sway is built-in to the product.
That is a great question! Contact our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com or call them at 877-523-9103 and they have best answer that for you!
If your chains are so long that they drag or are close to the ground they are too long to use, if the tongue comes loose it will dig into the asphalt and flip the trailer or the tow vehicle, use safety chains that have about 3" of sag so they will cradle the tongue like they are supposed to do.
Ok you have a good ride height now, but now your trailer axles have more weight on them which could wear faster on the trailer and cause more blow outs and put more stress on the tongue which could cause it to crack.
Did you know if your airbags are right above the axel, that is the weakest point of your pickup frame, and it is going to bend right there above the axel because there is a multiple amount of pushing force down at the hitch it is like adding a cheater bar to a wrench to get more force to break free a bolt.
Yes, but most people are interested about using both systems. Why not bring that part up? I don't know many people that just one one vs the other, most realize the importance of the WDH systems, but it would be nice to see a summary of the advantages/drawbacks of using both systems in tandem (and the best way to set them up if doing so)
From what I read, using bags along with WDS diminishes the benefits of the WDS both from sway and weight distribution perspectives. I can't explain why or if it's even true, but that's what I read.
Surely if you loaded the trailer properly with the load over the axles and 10% of the gross weight on the tongue, you would have a much more balanced and safer combination. Why would you put so much load on the tongue and not on axles where it's meant to be?
The place I bought my camper from set up the weight distribution hitch. Everything sits nice and level, however when I am connected to the trailer the distribution bars have little to no weight on them. In fact I can move them quite easily with the full weight of the camper on the truck. do I need to to raise the brackets that the bars set on?
Just enquiring if Jason calculated the load reactions on the chassis frame verses the Frame RBM and factor of safety needed and also on the differential housing with the air springs were inflated to 55psi which is generally 5 to 10 psi under the maximum pressure you see on a loaded vehicle fitted fully designed for air suspension.
Wish I could get the frame bracket to quit moving on mine..smh.. I really don't know why you guys don't make the inside link plate thicker so it doesn't bow. I followed the book exactly as the tightening procedure recommended and torqued to spec with a $500 Snap on torque wrench and it still bowed and moves an 3/16" either way on one of the brackets..
Hey Jeremy! You're frame bracket definitely shouldn't be moving around like that. Contact our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com or call them at 877-523-9103 and they should be help you fix that!
Thanks! Quick, informative video. One question: I’m leaving my trailer hitches for three or four days while I travel. Is it ok to wait that long to lubricate? Thank you.
I would have liked to see a combination of say 30psi or so in the bags with the weight distribution system. I replaced my rear leafspring suspension with a 4-link and airbags with a auto-leveling valve so my suspension automatically adjusts the pressure in my bags to keep the rear of the truck at the height I chose(level front to rear empty) from any weight adjustments, the same as a semi. Due to this I really wonder what kind of weird effects would come out of using a weight distribution hitch, if any.
Should the measurements and adjustments of the Weight distribution hitch be done before or after the bed of the truck is loaded with contents? Firewood, chairs, coolers. I try to keep things in the bed vs in the camper.
I would adjust after your truck is fully loaded. That way you get the most accurate numbers, but if you aren't adding too much weight after you should also be fine!
Should the measurements and adjustments of the Weight distribution hitch be done before or after the bed of the truck is loaded with contents? Firewood, chairs, coolers. I try to keep things in the bed vs in the camper.
I would adjust after your truck is fully loaded. That way you get the most accurate numbers, but if you aren't adding too much weight after you should also be fine!
I had this system installed by a dealer but when I arrived home and started unhitching, I just could not remove the spring bar on one of the sides. I had a large wood block under the tongue jack and I literally used the whole jack length and had both my vehicle and the trailer lifted at something like a 25 degree angle to the ground, and yet there was still tension on the bar. I ended up having to hammer the bar out of the L-bracket with a big hammer, and after I did that, the rear of my truck just slammed down hard to the ground. I am not sure what the dealer or I did wrong, maybe someone can help.
Oh no! I would contact our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com or call them at 877-523-9103, and explain to them what's happening with your hitch! They should be able to help you figure out the issue!
I was just about to buy air bags for my truck to tow my trailer. Thank God, I saw this and thank you for this information and effort to bring it to a larger audience. Very much appreciated. Thank you.
I run airbags, but not for my camper, i still use the WDH. The WDH relies on a constant weight. My work trailer is constantly loaded all kinds of strange, so I use the airbags to basically adjust my headlights and have a better ride when the tounge is loaded heavy.
Superior content fellas. Thank you so much for the additional effort of adding the graphics with the weights! It was so easy for me to pause while multitasking compared to others who auction off the numbers... AND NOW A TWO FIFTY!!!! Also I was starting to get a little worried about Jason since he wasn't speaking, he's good ;)
Excellent video, Thanks guys.. I now understand my airbags on My 2015 TRD offroad are not even needed now when towing my trailer, (actually they are the wrong approach) I will only use the Weight Distribution hitch, this style hitch makes a HUGE difference when towing. From Slightly scary to NICE Controlled ride. I do use the Airbags when hauling loads of wood stone etc. in the Bed to level it out.
I had the system fitted oct 2022 by the caravan dealer after using the H/R WDH before . Must say its a big improvement over the Hayman Reece WDH. One thing tho is it normal fir the friction points on the L bracket to show signs of a brown colour ( rust)? I rang my dealer and he said its ok but do not put anything oner the friction pads like silicon spray/ wd40 ect
A little bit of rust is normal, especially if your hitch is left outside in the rain or bad weather! Thankfully there are ways to spruce up your hitch, including sanding down the rust and repainting!
I’ve had my e2 for two seasons now and it has been nothing but disappointment. The left side L bracket won’t stay tight and I’ve had the bar come off twice. I’m not sure what’s going on but I’ve torqued every thing to spec. I have the thousand pound bars and I’ve been told I need the 1200 pound bars because of the length and weight of my trailer. I get a lot of bounce and barely any sway control.
Oh no! Lets get this problem figured out. If you contact our customer service team at info@fastwaytrailer.com or call them at 877-523-9103, they can help you figure out the problem!! I'm sorry this seems incredibly frustrating!
Would I receive benefit from a trailer distribution hitch on a Toyota Highlander pulling my 2600 pound camper?? I believe my camper tongue weight is around 400 pounds.
Measure the front bumper of your Toyota without the trailer hooked up, then hook up the trailer and measure the bumper again. You dont want to see an increase more than an inch, if you do, get the WD
