Very instructional, but for the sake of your solution not exploding due to exothermic reaction. ALWAYS add acid to water. Muriatic you might be OK, as it is diluted but if it was nitric/hrdrofluoric, or a stronger acid like that, you could be in trouble. Appreciate the video tho
And with plating if you are thinking voltage, lower voltage actually plates better than high voltage. Between 1 and 5 apps and you're good, but you could even plate with a 1.5 volt aaa
Wow!!! Excellent video! I have been using chemicals to dye woods for years and make my own solutions. I used to have old hardware treated by a guy that was in L.A. and worked for all the designers but I never tried it myself. I have some screws I need to get back close to the nickel plate you have there but I have one problem the owner of this antique table had soaked the hardware in a solution of white vinegar so it’s all black. Can I use this process on the steel and some maybe brass also or do I need to separate them? Thanks again. Great stuff
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Когда курил--мои любимые зажигалки были "Имко"(австр.) и "Зиппо"...Обе -безотказные ,при любом ветре и в перевёрнутом положении зажигались(!..) . Руки Мастера "омолодили "её...Снимаю шляпу !
Thank you for the best electroplating tutorial in the world. Can I plate nickel directly onto steel? If I may ask, I want to nickel-plate Vespa exhaust to stop rust and I've heard that copper-plated steel makes a galvanic cell, where the steel is a sacrificial element.
Why remove piston rings, and not replaces them? The part was covered in grease, didnt need buffing, you think your clever, but i think your bluffing,,,,(no-sub)
Correct but because they changed the style a lot of the first few runs in 1933, a lot of collectors refer to this model as the “1932 model” in order to distinguish between the different styles produced in 1933.
Dont add water in acid. Its always acid into water. I get that its diluted but its something that can be dangerous for people that find it more concentrated
You didn’t copper plate shit! First that spanner was chromed and under chromed finishes there are nickel and copper layers. All you did was disolve the cheap thin layer of chrome exposing the copper beneath. And for electroplating the positive goes to the piece.
While I do think this is fake (there is pretty much no copper ions in the water/hydrochloric acid solution), the negative (cathode) gets plated, not the positive (anode). I use electrolysis for rust removal, where the part to be cleaned is attached to the cathode. I thought for years that I was plating the scrap metal with the rust from the part I was cleaning. Turns out that is not the case. When electroplating, it's the negative that gets plated.
Chromium steel was probably too expensive back then, people were on a budget in 1932. So Zippo used cheap iron and coated it with copper -- even the movable parts.
@@funnyyellowdog8833 Wow then they they continued to use it when they made this replica? Cool. Still doesn't explain why these cheesey youtube channels purposely rust things in order to clean them on video.
