I paid like 150 some 10 years ago on a precision balancer. The smoothest and lightest sealed bearings inside aluminum blocks, with a fat steel shaft and cones with lock nuts. I'm still using it to this day. Not one of the other balancers I've bought and tried or ones my friends have, have ever spun so well as the one I have. You're right that friction matters. But I question how much accuracy we actually need LOL. I only put weights on in 1/4oz increments anyway ....
You can bleed by pressurizing the system before opening the valve, or you can bleed by pressing the brake after the valve is already open, like in this video. What's the difference between the two?
i have one of these bikes and plan on tracking it eventually but im still a college student so I dont have much money. Are there any mods I should focus on trying to get first? Am still a novice rider.
@@NineDog nice, I always like to suggest comfort and fitment first. Think rearsets, clip ons, tank grips. Things that help you feel like you fit in the bike and are comfortable as possible. Feeling cramped or not in a good position will make you slower and less confident to feel what the bike is doing under you. When you get faster, suspension is important, unless your pretty heavy, then maybe consider suspension first. Dont need to go crazy but a decent shock and fork springs will go a long way to help if your a bigger dude. Power comes last, more power only helps if you can max the bikes potential stock. I will make an exception for a simple slip on because its nice to be able to hear your bike sing.
Thanks for the video, my 03 SV1000 fuel pump was full of rest and old fuel resin. Is the Thermister required in order for the fuel pump to work or is it just for the low fuel light?
Excellent demonstration. But... digital calipers accurate to a couple 0.001" are too cheap not to have one in your shop for these types of jobs. When you flare your rivet link, the chain manufacturer should give you the dimension of the diameter of the flared end. For example, DID chains are mostly 5.5 - 5.8mm. Some are 5.7 - 6.0mm so be sure to check.
I want to buy one of these but the reviews on some complain about the “cones” being machined poorly or the steel rod not being straight. For the ones to which you link have there been any quality concerns?
I guess you can get these shocks used or hopefully at a discount from new or is it still thru the roof high priced? I ask because everything I see parts wise are expensive & suspension parts are really expensive. Very cool upgrade...
I apologize, I'm saving for a Dual Sport & was deeply researching them & as I was learning about suspension type swap outs I saw the SV650 which is a drop dead beautiful bike, in my opinion. IF I were to get a street bike this would be the one for lots of reasons...... I appreciate the offer & if I come up on anyone needing one I will have all your info & drop it back here. Thanks again for the great videos
Healtech indicator? If so, is it one that’s plug and play? I have a k4 600 and I bought the plug and play one that doesn’t have an option to reconfigure by running thru the gears… I find a good amount of time its not showing the right gear, and I have the speed set to level 3 of 9. If you have the same one and have any advice I would appreciate it.
@@hendrxx_ yea its healtech, i dont remember how to set up, but i do remember when i bought it that the instructions where well writtwn and it did have several features i never would have known about had i not read through them. Other than reading their instructions, sorry but i cant help much.
The worst is that the high pressure filter is integrated into the pump , if that gets clogged then only thing you can do is cleaning ( I was successful doing it 😏) if still not running good then all the unit needs replacement, the original pump unit is more then 600 EU
This is great. I'm looking at getting a Ninja 300, Ninja 400, R3, or KTM RC 390 as my track bike. I don't really want to put my Ducati Monster 821 on the track for some reason.
@@MattHallJava 300s and 400s are tons of fun, and at some point youre gonna take a spill. No need to bang up a nice Ducati. Id recommend a ninja 400, the other bikes are sorta slowly getting phased out of the track day scene. A ninja 400 will be a great bike, and when youre done with it, by that time probably a much easier re-sell than the other bikes. But hey if you find a good deal on something else or you just like the other 300s better, go for it
I really like to do things in a totally idiot proof way, so I always buy new brake fluid that a different colour to the old brake fluid & just bleed away till the fluid changes colour.
Good riding, and a great walk around of the bike in other video, but just out of curiosity, how come you are not a clutchless gear change when changing up?
Its not super great on the gearbox and sometime you can get false neutrals. Quickshifter modual makes things better if you want to clutchless upshift. Also i can shift plenty fast if need be when im racing so im not gonna risk a false neutral for a tenth second gain. Thats just my opinion.
You can just top it up. Dont need to bleed the brakes for that because its before the master cylinder. No air gets in from the reservoir unless it is so low that air rraches the inlet port ( the little holes at the bottom of the reservoir) it would basically have to be completely empty for that to happen. Just a little low? No problem to just top it up.
Excellent video. Thank you. Of all the other coolant flush and fill videos I’ve seen, only yours mentioned starting the engine to let the thermostat open. This is the only way to get all the old coolant out. Your video was very informative and easy to follow. Thank you again for sharing this information. I am now confident that I can tackle this job on my own bike. 👍🏾
Your video is wrong. How it is wrong was pointed out by @rubo1964 but his comment was not responded to. You seat the side plate using the rivet tool with the rivet flare pin installed. That is completely bogus. Look at 11:56 which shows the wrong setup. The wrong assembly of the tool is prior to that time stamp. The flare pin is REMOVED, the side plate is seated using the flat of the other pin, the hole IN that piece fits OVER the protruding rivet pin. Hard to believe that this video has been running for two years with all sorts of kudos...and it is WRONG. PLEASE, folks. Read the instructions that hopefully come with any chain riveting tool. There are other vids that show the correct way; 'Five Tips for using a chain breaker tool' is one of them. At least, use some common sense. Use the riveting tip to seat the side plate? That HAS to strike ANYone as being wrong.
Many people pointed it out, my shitty bikemaster tool doesnt have a proper press plate, I've said in many comments to use your tool as the directions say. Ive since found a way to do it better with the tool i have, had i expected my video to get so many views i probably.would have bought a different tool and done it better. Your comment wasnt responded to because i work everyday and have shit to do. 95% of the video is good, i fucked up on one part. Make your own video if you want to do it better.
@@nickbuchananracing The problem is that the video is wrong, dangerously wrong. The 'one part' you 'f'd up' could kill someone. A chain going to pieces is easily a recipe for making someone dead. No exaggeration. Imagine an instantly locked up rear wheel at 70mph because the chain bunched up in the crankcase cover and locked up the countershaft. That so many responders indicated they 'learned something' is sad, a comment on the ignorance of people in general. That's fine...until a misguided, WRONG 'how to' that is blindly followed kills someone. Your tool would work by removing the flare-pin insert and using the press plate to seat the side plate. It's not the tool that is the problem. The problem in this case is the person using the tool in an incorrect fashion.
I'm not sure of don't remember. Look up stock hardware for a 2006-2008 zx10r shock mounting bolts. I used the zx10 for the lower and the sv bolt for the upper
no no no....incorrect use of chain tool, the outer plate should not be pressed on with the rivet head.....the chain should sit in the tool and the press plate is used to press on the side plate
@fa7842 vor 5 Minuten Perfect demonstration thank you! -It is possible to install a `Clip Type Master Link`on every motorbike no matter how many ccm they have?
The clip type must be the correct link for the chain, they must match, not every model chain offers a clip type link. Also as for if its ok to use clip link on bigger bikes, that goes by what the chain is rated for, usually will give a max cc rating. Refer to that for if its strong enough for your bike
