If you're trying to get the alternator off you will need to drop the engine a few inches after undoing the main topside engine mount so the bolt can come all the way out (it's usally blocked by the mounting bracket for the engine bushings). The alternator bolt won't come all the way out otherwise, and the alternator will be stuck in place, despite being loose.
Is this correct for ZT 190? I know that there are special locking adaptors for 190 engine but what about the rest? Is this (800) different somehow from the newer KV6? (75, ZS, ZT etc.?)
Bearing in mind the KV6 was reworked somewhat for the 75, in my opinion they did a great job after the 800 installation. I have the 2 litre KV6, now with over 123k on the clock and runs like new; never loses any oil, water, or smokes when running. All I have done in 18 months is change the cam belts as per the service schedule (the old belts were 11 years old!)
I had the 1.8 vvc K series 160bhp in the ZR. I did love the car, mechanics hated it because of the reliability of head gaskets etc. In the end the Head Gasket didnt blow, a piston did on 77k miles and the car smoked all the way home badly. Will never get another one,although theirs not many of them left!. Ive had a Honda 2 in fact one bottom end wewnt and a Typr R ep3 that kept slipping its timing chain due to worn pulleys. Ford now! and good so far.
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I thought my 02 freelander was gone at 81k... the timing pulley failed when car was at an idle.... I got lucky and didn't bend a valve... Installed pulley and belt, runs like new...
I'll have a bmw straight six anyday. Looks a right pig of a job. i had 2 mondeo v6's both ended up with headgasket failure. Weak spots were cylinders 3 and 5. I like the smoothness and sound of v6 engines but it gets expensive when they f**k up.....
Use a large pair of grips to hold the pulleys while you put the secondary belts on (or a right angled spanner) and a socket on the other side. These kits are 300 pounds! What a rip-off. It was nice of them to make this video though - not many manufacturers would bother. Much better than the useless haynes manuals! And not a drop of oil anywhere :)
A late reply but aftermarket versions of the tool set are now available on Amazon for a low price. They are not as good as the factory tools but a little but of filing makes them work fine for DIY use.
I know now there is a different set the the control times. In the video, the 2.0 liter engine is shown. Use the locking pin to the 2.5 liter motor is correct, the marks are not to be considered. The camshaft gears have to be solved in order to achieve the most accurate setting.
I have one of these engines under the lid at the front of my car and it is really very good. I would love a Brian Cox version of this explanatory video, however, as I find it far more confusing than quantum physics - e.g. 6:10 Boyz 2 Men is also used in K shoe shops with PBC (Professor Brian Cox). If, at any time, you have to fit a replacement ERM, you must use Facebook to tessellate it to the specific gravitation. Thanks for posting!
I know this might be a silly question but does the video uploaded or anybody know where I might be able to find videos on the L series diesel engine? I find loads on the K series/KV6 but none for the river diesel engine? Many thanks I you can help me
@discocreator76 no, I'm sorry to say it's likely just your 2.0 KV6 that is crap lol, it's doing less mpg than my 1800kg 2.5 190 o.O even my 911 is getting similar milege to your 2.0! The Kv6 is a great motor - no issues in over 50k of running here (and approaching 100k), they will easily run to 150k+ and are complete bargains. I bought my ZT as a cheap runaround a few years ago, It's a great reliable comfy barge to run around in and economical for it's size. If you hate it, sell it - simple lol
@discocreator76 P.S. please don't tell me fact is bullshit - have you tried checking your VIS motors to make sure the intake is working correctly? Fuel consumption in my book for the 2.0 is 40.1 extra urban and even nearly 30 combined, it sounds like your figures are a little lower.
@discocreator76 I've had the KV6 for 3 years, the MPG never dropped below 34 on average. I drive it as careful as I can to get the best MPG because it's not a car to race around in, changing gear at 2k or below and crusing at 65. The manual for the 190 says 38.8 extra urban cycle, that includes half of steady speed and other half idling, stops and accelerations up to 75 mph, so my figures are entirely achievable.
@bagnall36 What for an engine you have?I have an kv6 mk2,and when I lock the crankshaft with the locking pin on flywheel,the v in the cam belt-pulley isn't correct to the oil-pump housing,it's two tooth ahead. but the mark on the belt-pulley match with the save mark on the timing case.give it a difference at the mk1, mk2. ,2.0 , 2.5 litre engine?i dont can believe, that the engine is build so incorrect. you be right,the instruction-routine points to the save mark.I'm confused.
Taking into account that Rover made this video I can only assume that they would know much better than anyone how a timing belt goes on one of there engines. A nightmare of a job too by the looks of things!!!
I was thinking the same thing, I see someone posted an answer but frankly I still dont get it. Have to watch it again a few times, maybe that will help.
And the plastic inlet manifold, single peddle operated throttle body, Sliding knuckle-actuated internal throttle bodies, improved cooling, better component tolerances at manufacture...I reckon the 2 engines are CHALK AND CHEESE!
My Rover 800 KV6 Auto Coupe has only ever done around 18-20 around town and 25 MAX on a run. Official Figures were URBAN 18.9, EXTRA URBAN 37.9 COMBINED 27.8. The Manual KV6 800s are supposed to do URBAN around 41MPG! My urban is therefore not to bad, Maybe I should lower my speed by 20/30 MPH on the Motorways!!! to increase my EXTRA URBAN. Never found the aircon on or off altering it, so mostly drive with it on now. My 2.0 Vitesse did 39.
I've got a ZT 190 KV6, 27mpg average around town and 38-40 at cruise, you must have been driving everywhere flat out - or id had something very wrong with it.