Just change whatever you use frequently! New car in warranty here so using Valvoline 0w20, SP DX3, well priced and easily available plus Subaru black oil filter. Lots of reasons why you could have blown up an after market turbo …. Lean it out and you’ll pop it pretty quick or getting the ignition timing or tune out too … not necessarily the oil. Oh, and you might just beat on it too hard too which does tend to kill stuff.
0W is NOT only about winter but also about dry starts. The thinner the oil the sooner you'll get lubricated parts. 80% of engine weear occurs at start. You want 0w but also higher number at the end too. For your car 0w30 would be best or even 0w40. And nothing bad can happen to your car. 10w30 and 10w40 which are thicker then those oils were used since 1960s.
They are still holding up great although I just recently started to hear some squeaky compression noises when going over bumps. It is drifted heavily tho which plays a part in the heavy wear n tear in the past 4 years
@@Reksir that’s not bad for 4 years and having being used for drifting, thinking about getting them for a daily driver, didn’t see many reviews other than yours! Thanks for the insight
0W-20 is made for hybrids, its an extremely thin oil so that when the engine kicks in at highway speeds and the engine is cold the engine gets lubricated asap. In a non hybrid 0W-20 has no business in any car, period !!! 0W-30 if you live in very cold climate or 5W-30 should be put in every GR86 no matter whether its tuned or turbocharged.
Lmao you don't have to be rich to own a switch or a quest 2. You can literally buy both for around $100. I worked a normal mechanic job and have 3 switch's for myself and for my kids. Responsible saving can easily lead to a purchase of either or.
Why stop there there chicken? Only 40lbs. Radio, speakers, side interior trim, glove box, owners manual (3lbs), carpet, door cards. You have another 110lbs to go. Add: light weight seat and remove passenger, light weight batty, carbon fenders, carbon drive shaft, 16lb 17 x 8.5 light weight rims. Dont do carbon hood, adds 2lbs of weight over oem. People want to be cool for a day. Let’s take out interior to show how (dumb) cool I am.
If you ever drifted a brz, you'll know it's a big difference when you drift alone and with a 180lb person. An extra 40lbs off does help. I actually drive my cars, you sit on sidelines and in traffic
Numerous UOAs on the Subaru oil which is 0W-20 show that it thins out to 6.5 cSt in this engine and still works fine. Generally I use 5W-20 which doesn't thin out and stays at 8 cSt. In my opinion 1.5 cSt is a significant safety margin of about 15-20%. It's like putting a 15% thicker oil compared to the OEM oil.
i recently got a quest 2. I loved it when i first got it but got bored after 3 days. I don’t have the money to buy all the good games that it has like fnaf help wanted. I was hoping to get a switch instead. Thanks for this video!
Oddly enough I’ve actually gotten much worse stick drift on the quest 2 than I’ve ever gotten on switch. My right stick started drifting on quest 2 and I needed to spray it with electrical WD40 every play session or else I’d start walking backwards. And then my cousins quest got it even worse to the point where the electrical WD40 didn’t work rendering it pretty much unplayable. I don’t hear many other people talking about this though so maybe we just got extremely unlucky. I have a quest 3 now though and so far those controllers have been great!
I've gone through 2 sets of nintendo joycons because of stick drift. Never had stick drift with my oculus rift s nor Meta Quest 2 and I've had both for longer than my switch. Must of been really unlucky. I've never heard of quest controllers getting stick drift. Interesting
@@Reksir yeah it’s weird. Not saying I haven’t gotten joycon drift too, just not as bad as my quest 2 drift. Also my sister and mom both have quest 2’s too and theirs are fine so yeah it’s weird
I heard it’s recommends to “flush” the oil cooler with .65 quarts of oil. Are you dumping that oil out and then hooking up the lines after with the fresh oil?
After some research, my findings are that ALWAYS 5W-30 always will give better protection than 0w-20 or 5w-20 the only exception is on extremely low temperatures (not my case), the only reason the car makers are recommending 0w-20 or 5w-20 is that fuel economy NOT to have better protection on your engine or make your engine last longer (actually 0w-20 or 5w-20 make more wear on your engine than 5w-30, especially in hot areas like Houston/Arizona/Desserts, etc), there are some exceptions on an extreme engine like Chrysler 426 Hemi In A Hellcat that Chrysler recommends 5W-40 (see the tendency that for more HP more viscosity is needed? ask why?) all this thin oil history is to satisfy EPA requirements (better gas MPG around 1% less if you are lucky) and not for the best interest of the car owner.
If both are manufacture approved to make spec, it really wont make a difference besides some fuel economy and maybe cold start in winter and how long it takes to get to operating temp.
Replace spark plugs. Make sure that they are not wet due to oil getting inside the tube seals. If they are wet, then valve cover.gaskets and tube seals. Oil can cause misfire.
0w20 came as fuel efficient oil and most manufacturers even mazda following this crap. My 2016 mazda cx5 non turbo engine oil cap asking for 0w20 when user manual says 5w30 but only for Canada and USA 0w20, because some government restrictions and regulations I believe and also Americans can change their vehicles every 5-10 years before the engine can blow up 😅. I have used 5w30 0w30 0w20 and 5w20 oil in my mazda cx5 2.5l non turbo and in my opinion I get Lil more fuel economy when I use 0w20 but 5w30 runs just fine but sacrifice some mpg but with 5w30 I think my mazda cx5 runs Lil bit quiter or smoother and a full tank (14.75gallons maybe)of 87 octane I get about 300miles roughly but 0w20 I get about 350 miles or more sometimes depending on where am driving the most. 0w20 is definitely get me more mpg but I don't know what I am sacrificing for the extra mpg.
Why was this such a hard solution to find? With the amount of dead threads I found of people with this issue no one ever explained how they fixed it! Thanks heaps! EDIT: After 3 months of searching RU-vid finally decided to recommend this video, amazing effort. Unfortunately after going in circles I had gave up on trying to straighten it without disassembling it (didn't even consider it would help until this video). I cracked the shits seeing a diagram showing it didn't have an assigned function and forced the shifter in bending it flat. Ended up following this video months later and spent a solid half an hour trying to bend it back and reshape it (had unfurled) to only have it snap in half. Ultimately my own fault. Still stands as a great video. Didn't know how much a pain the cable that you unplug from the wheel was though.
