Controlling Light is an essential skill for photographers, videographers and digital filmmakers. Sekonic makes tools such as light meters, color meters and illuminometers to help you measure and control light for the perfect exposure. Save time and money by getting it right in-camera instead of in post-production. Need inspiration or guidance? You've come to the right place. Please enjoy our videos.
I have a question: I have just bought this model and would like to keep power control on my camera Godox transmitter instead of the Sekonic. How do I achieve that? I think power changes on the transmitter are not always applied on the flash unit.
Sekonic and Godox missed a features that is super easy to implement. I would instantly buy this if there was a possibility to set a certain f-stop on the sekonic and have the sekonic adjust the light output. Similiar to TCM, just more accurate with a light meter. Without this feature it's just a light meter that is capable of controlling my flash. If I want that, I can just buy any light meter and hook it up to a second godox transmitter, that also allows me to control the flash. I get it, that there are other cool features about the light meter, but it really doesn't justify the price compared to a regular light meter + transmitter or the build in TCM from Godox.
can i use the spyder color checker instead of x-rite color checker in making custom exposure profile for my pentax camera? If so, which patch of the spyder color checker will I use as my target reference?
Please email us at support@sekonic.com. We can send you a user guide with all the compatible color checkers and an instruction manual. It also available on our website under the DTS software link on 478 and L-858 product pages.
Having a devil of a time trying to find the source of my error in creating a profile for my Pentax K3 Monochrome. Maybe someone can answer? When I import the photos to generate the tone curve for the DTS software, the resulting curve looks OK for the negative EV range. The toe of the curve starts out asymptotic, then rises, rises more sharply, then fairly linear through the mid-range, but where it should flatten out at the shoulder of the curve and become more asymptotic for the brighter EV's, it just remains almost linear to 250 brightness (255?) and then flat. The curve doesn't have a shoulder. It hits the top of the graph and then continues horizontal to the right. If I could grab the curve and drag the entire thing straight down about a stop, then it would look right. I've checked that ISO on camera and meter match. I've captured the incident/reflective readings off the target. One last variable that has puzzled me is the placement of the "plus sign" (+) corner markers on the test images. The Datacolor and Sekonic Target II have markers printed on the target. You just drag the DTS markers to sit over the ones captured in the image. I only have the Sekonic Target I, the one with a white stripe at the top, a black stripe at the bottom, and 7 light-to-dark gray patches in the middle. There are NO corner markers to match up with the software. I hope my description of the curve - normal toe of curve, flat shoulder of curve - suggests something to someone. Much obliged for any ideas.
Two general rules. To measure the brightness of each light source, you should point the light towards the light source. To get an overall exposure, you should point the dome towards your camera from the subject's position. Wherever the dome is, it will give you the light reading of the light falling on that surface.
im confused with exposure...people on you tube try to compare cameras to justify what they bought....they say that say there is a difference between cropped to full frame to large format....if that is true why doesn't the light meter have a button to switch the camera you are using??
If you are using Auto ISO, you wouldn't use a light meter; your camera will constantly change based on science. A light meter assumes you will be manually setting your ISO, Shutter speed, and Aperture.
Just got my 858 w/Godox TX and am so impressed with this implementation. I'm also inclined to believe that Sekonic is the greatest light meter manufacturer in the world, as even now in 2024, there is nothing I could find that offered anything near what the 858 can do. Thank you Sekonic and Godox for this wonderful tool.
Chris Knight is without a doubt the one I've learned most from on RU-vid when it comes to photographic with strobes Thank you so much for another great video!
We hear you, Matt. Our L308x is still a not touchscreen meter. We definitely understand the benefit of buttons in many use cases, but we are currently focused on the touch screens as the best way to incorporate all the features these meters have.
If I wanted to be a teacher I would model myself on this guy - forget the internet - easily one of the best teachers I have ever seen - superb session on metering light Chris - thank you.
This is terrific! I love this long-form content with detailed information. Please share more long-form content like this. Chris is terrific photographer and teacher; his choice of recreating Karsh with flash strobes is terrific. Well done--I feel like I learned a few things here. It was cool to see Chris setting up a photo with just a light meter and no test shots.
@@SekonicGlobal so..like we can see in the 2 videos by chris knight, with profoto system, he is using 2 profoto connect pro? (one in his hand one mounted on the camera?) it will work also with one profoto connect pro and one older profoto air remote ttl? thanks so much for the info.. and.. great content 👍🏻
We work with some of the best commercial portrait photographers in the world, and they often choose the aperture based on the look they are going for, what they want in focus, and the lighting. One aperture definitely doesn't fit every shoot. - Ab Sesay
48:36 Correct me if I'm being wrong, but putting a sock on a modifier does not make the light from it softer, it makes it diffused (instead of being direct without the sock). With all due respect to Chris!
Correct, the sock diffuses the light. Therefore it will take on more qualities of softer light, but depending on the relative distance and relative size compared to the subject will dictate how much of a softening effect it has.
