Welcome to my channel! My name is Robert. I've always been accused of having too many toys, hence the channel name. I've worked at the Kennedy Space Center since 1984, and finally retired in April of 2021.
My degree is in electronics, but my job had me wearing many hats, so to speak. I enjoy woodworking, MIG welding, metal fabrication, working with plastics, using 3D printers, electronic circuit design, wrenching on my vehicles, RVing, traveling, RC hobbies, off-grid solar projects, etc.
None of my videos are intended for children (COPPA), but my channel is family friendly. I will occasionally post videos showing radio controlled hobbies. These are not child toys, these are hobby grade equipment, and are priced accordingly. Furthermore, the FAA does have age restrictions on operating some equipment.
As a disclaimer, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Following any of the product links in my videos costs you nothing extra.
And is it possible if you can make the switch with the led and the connector and i will order it through your eBay and i will connect it to my generator i have RV QG 4000
The line was vibrating in the bracket, causing a buzzing noise. I wedged a piece of foam between the condenser coil and the refrigerant line. That stopped the noise.
@@hc955 if the line gets hot enough to melt the foam, your compressor is toast. If you put your hands on the exposed copper tubing on your home A/C condenser unit outside, you can feel a temperature differential, but not enough to come close to burning hot. BTW, the foam I used is the exact foam I used to replace the UV rotted foam on my home A/C.
That Trotec plastic is available in a wider range of colors and thicknesses fron Johnson Plastics who sell Rowmark plastics in 1, 2,3 layers in a multitude of colors and gauges that are engrable or for laser.
In the middle of our last camping trip, we started having an issue with the A/C. Its runs great, but won’t shut off until the thermostat is slide all the way up past the 85 degree mark. Hope replacing this will fix the issue. Great video!
Thank you for posting! I have a 2004 camper and the A/C started acting up. I saw this, it sounded like the issue may be the thermostat. I just put the new one in and it's working! I will see if the new thermostat fixed the issue. BTW, I'm a 60 year-old Grandmom and your video was spot on! Only recommendation I have is to make sure all the buttons on the new thermostat are off before you start.
First off please change the name because you can NEVER have to many toys ! LOL. Next I buy the acrylic with paper protection on it then I do a fill of my letters or images leaving the paper on ! Then i spray paint over the letters or image ontop of paper , once that dries i peel off the paper leaving painted letters and or images like a stencil . On clear painting the back gives it a 3d look when lit !
I have a Creality Falcon 2 40W diode laser as well as the CO2. I tried using it, but the light wavelength is wrong. It cuts black acrylic nicely, but doesn’t work on light colored materials. With the laminate, it cuts the dark top layer, and does nothing on the white layer, except reflect the laser energy back to the black layer. This makes a mess of the top layer.
Excellent video. I have been looking for a way to make more professional looking control panels for my electronics projects and toying with the idea of purchasing a laser engraver. You've convinced me that a laser engraver is the way to go. Thanks.
Glad you found the information useful. Just be aware diode lasers won’t work on clear or light colored acrylics. They excel at cutting wood and black acrylic. I have both types of lasers. The CO2 laser cuts all acrylics and is perfect for laminated acrylic.
Hi, great video. Would you mind sharing where I can get those switches with a built-in LED? I been looking for that model for a while, I'm having some trouble finding it.
I can give you the specific P/N for the red and green switches I ordered from Mouser or you can get exactly what you want by using this data sheet to create your desired switch: www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/60/dm-1382873.pdf
At minute 1:58, I did a detailed view showing the two bolts that needed to be removed. Other than disconnecting the fuel line, that’s all that was involved in removing the old pump. Hope that helps.
This vieo was super useful! I was a low of The Warthhog project videos but I am really looking for making a 19" rack front pal and this seems just right. Thank you!
I wrote on both sides of the gas can, with a Sharpe marker, “USED OIL”. Doesn’t get stored with the others. Works well for me, but do what works for you.
Keep in mind panel mounted components, like switches, have a limited “grip length”. Many of the ones I use are intended for 2-3mm thick panels. A thicker panel won’t allow the latches to lock on a snap in type switch, or there might not be enough threads on others. But, it’s worth experimenting! Maybe 1mm of clear over 1mm of black, with a 1mm white backer. Or oversize the holes on the clear layer, so the components don’t actually go through it. The nice part is once you have it designed, it only takes minutes to make another if the first one gets damaged. Have fun!
You left a link for everything you used in the video but for the most important thing that is the tool you didn't. Maybe you could type type the name of the tool?
I used the trotec to create a control panel on the K40. I don't have a laser guide, so I wanted to be able to do the vector cutting and the raster cutting witout moving the piece. The only complaint I have about the matieral is that my control panel was bigger than the one here with a dozen switches, 10 fuse holders, a USB outlet, a 12 v outlet and even a 1/8 audio input. With that much hardware, the thing is floppy and needs additional support in the middle. Smaller panels are definitely the way to go.
I've used the 1.5mm material, which is too flimsy by itself, but the 3mm material has worked well for me, but not made a huge panel yet. I just made a a couple of panels for our new RV, and incorporated 2020 aluminum frame material. This method should help your project. Details here: www.2manytoyz.com/Laser-Engraved-Panels.html
Hi great video... really like your videos along with the Warthog project and Steve Makes Everything... Could you point me to your shapefiles on Thingiverse? TIA!!
It would run for a few minutes, then shut down. If your float is stuck closed, or the fuel pump has died, it won't run at all. I'd suggest taking off the air filter, and spraying some ether directly into the throat of the carburetor while trying to start it. If it fires, then it is a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn't, then a spark issue. You can also disconnect the fuel line at the base of the carb, face it away from everything, then try starting. It should squirt fuel. If so, likely a stuck float, or clogged jet. Good luck!
What is your power setting for engraving? I have spray painted white 3mm Acrylic Opal with Gray Spray Paint and when I wanna engrave it, it leaves black letters. Tried different settings eben down to 5mA/200mms.
I put the details in the video description, but you have to click “more” to see it. Don’t like that RU-vid did that. Raser Engrave 4mA @ 100 mm/sec., air assist OFF.
Wish I knew how to use ours in case the power goes off. I need instructions for dummies. My husband has lots of the small LP bottles & a hook up piece. I’ve been looking online but I need very basic info. Mrs Z.
Start with the owners manual. They usually do a good job of covering all the safety details. Most of the accidents I’ve read about involve using it indoors, or even in a garage with the door open. You should run your generator monthly to keep it exercised. This keeps it reliable. Mine is a 2006, and still runs like new.
Resin has a wet appearance when not fully cured. An improperly cleaned part is difficult to cure, and tends to remain sticky. The wash and cure station does an excellent job of removing any residual resin. I put the cleaned part on paper towels, then lightly spray it with compressed air to remove any alcohol. The part should have a dull finish at this point. Now run it through the cure cycle, ensuring all surfaces are exposed to the UV light. Reposition the part and repeat if necessary. Final result should be a dull, solid part with no stickiness. It can now be lightly sanded if needed to remove any imperfections.
@@2manytoyz123 yes I can clean a piece really nicely, no stickiness but when it comes to curing, it doesn’t-cure properly… it still scratches easily with the finger nail even after a 2 hour cure cycle
If the part has been properly cleaned, it can be cured in minutes. If there’s still residual wet resin on the part, it can take hours. I have since purchased a wash/cure station, which works amazingly well.
