On another common Jag interior condition, how is your wood grain? Mine has some fading and was wondering if you had success in restoring them. Perhaps a video on this?
Hi Nathan, unfortunately my wood veneer is suffering from the "cloudiness" issue which I understand is very common for 2000-2001 vehicles. I tried the "hair dryer" method with literally 0 success. Not sure what else to do other than remove all the pieces and take them to a woodworking specialist who would sand them down and re-apply the finish. I suspect that would be costly, haven't explored it at all. Of course, wrapping all the pieces in some nice-looking wrap is an option, but I feel that would take away from the originality and charm of the car.
Ha, I didn't know this about the 4.2l cars. I suspect part of the reason for closing the lower tray is the revised bodywork (vertically deeper bumpers) on the later cars. Probably makes the car a bit more aerodynamic as well. In terms of cooling..... I suspect IF you drive more at slow speeds, stop-go city traffic, having the bottom open will be more beneficial for cooling. If you drive more on the highway, having the bottom closed would direct more air into the radiator. However, in many jurisdictions front license plates are mandatory and they tend to cover more than 1/3 of the front opening. For those owners I suspect having the bottom open is still better, as it counteracts the blocking introduced by the license plate.
@@2001JaguarXK8 Actually yours lets ram air exit before it does its job of going through the radiator. Mine forces the ram air to go through both the radiator and the oil cooler that all 4.2L XK8s have. That's why the bumper cover has two openings.
Hi Neven, I have heard that they could be the cause of creaking noises, but on my vehicle they were not causing any noises. I did have squeaks coming from the upper wishbone bushings. You can hear the kind of squeaks here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-naqTEQ5rsSA.html and also at 5:42 in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ewBVtG99E8A.html. To get rid of the squeaks I had to change the upper control arm bushings, lubricating was not enough. @nevengordic9888
Thank you kindly! I did not expect many owners to care much about this topic, but I see that the video is getting thumbs up and it warms my heart! Cheers!
Right on! I like this kind of mini-projects, which are not crucial or mandatory in any way, but still leave you with a very satisfactory result at the end. Very easy to do also!
Thanks for going to the trouble of demonstrating all of this. For those of us who think it anathema to drill a big hole in our bodywork, the prospect of trying to gain access from underneath the vehicle, make it a real prospect. The location of that hole is paramount and I wouldn’t want to have to do the type of repair that John did
Paul, thank you for your feedback! This was a very hard video to film and I am glad that fellow owners are finding value in it. I just bought the diff fluid this past Monday and will be doing the service itself soon. Still have not decided which approach to take, but in either case I will film the process :)
Great job explaining this. Great camera work. Yes the differential fluid must be changed. The long chain polymers get broken down by the shearing action of the gears. It’s also not really a ‘sealed’ unit if there is an air vent at the top and the plug is ‘leaking’. I’m sure the fluid was ‘low’ too. Depending on conditions changing the fluid every 4 years is not a bad idea.
Thank you, Robert! I have not yet changed the fluid, still indecisive on which approach to choose, but am leaning towards making the hole in the trunk. Like you said, I'd likely want to change it again in 4-5 years and having the access through the trunk makes things much easier.
Just an idea... have you thought of doing a video on replacing your transmission and engine mounts? I suppose they are still the original ones and need replacement? Thanks for your videos. I enjoy them a lot and are very helpful!
Hi Nathan, thank you for your feedback. My car is under 50k miles and I haven't noticed any problems or symptoms which point towards worn engine or transmission mounts. I hope I don't have to do that service any time soon :)
I document my ownership journey with the XK8. I tend to record the more interesting/key maintenance and repair activities. I don't have an explicit list of topics, basically wherever the ownership journey takes me. Having said that, there are a number of topics I want to cover: - Power steering fluid change (first video is published, the fluid change itself remains to be done) - Gearbox fluid change - Differential fluid change (first video is published, fluid change remains to be done) - Engine oil change - Upper timing chain tensioners - Thermostat tower - Water pump - Sway Bar bushings (front and rear) I have bought all the parts already, just have to do the work and film it. None of this is mandatory at this point, just prudent preventative maintenance. I am also open to suggestions, as long as the proposed activity is not something unnecessary for my car - for example, I would not be filming replacing a wheel bearing, unless a wheel bearing is actually on its way out. I hope this makes sense :) Cheers!
Thanks for showing how to remove the strut without releasing either the upper wishbone fulcrum bolt or the upper wishbone ball joint - all the other videos I’ve seen needed 1 or the other. We have 2 X100s to do this on and hopefully your video will be the answer
Please also take a look at my replies to the other comments to this video. I provide a bit more context, in case you run into problems with taking out the strut assembly. Best of luck!
Very useful video, thank you. I wish I had been able to see it before I changed my bushes and caused myself alignment problems 😢. Lesson learned for next time
Hi, nicely paced instruction video but have you thought about using the auxiliary connector which is behind the glovebox? It’s a much neater solution with its own relay and the option of a switched or permanent feed. You can either take power directly from it or use it to install a USB adaptor. I’ve just done it on my car and it took about 30 minutes. I will use it to install a dashcam soon.
Hi Mark, thank you for your feedback! I did consider using the free auxiliary connector, but in the end I decided to use it for another purpose. Will get to that project eventually, but like you said - it would serve as an additional USB power source. If you are considering powering your camera that way, you can extend the connector and terminate it into a second cigar lighter. Then you can plug in the wiring harness which comes with the camera directly into the cigar lighter within the glovebox itself (no need to buy a separate wiring kit).
I’m wondering if there’s a difference with later model XK8s. I have a 2006 and am right in the middle of doing this. There is no way I can get enough room to remove it the way you do. I can’t get the bottom of the strut up past the triangle piece.
Hmmm, I am not sure about differences with the later models. I'd say make sure your sway bar is completely disconnected on both sides of the vehicle and the suspension is pressed as far down as possible. Then, when you are maneuvering the strut assembly itself, you first need to turn it a bit (approximately 90 degrees from the original orientation) so that the bottom bushing is not pointing front-back, but rather points more towards the engine (I hope that makes sense). This will help with the three bolts at the top and getting one of them out of the metal ridge/stamped edge which limits the movement on top. If the shock can not clear the triangle plate on the bottom, try to get one of the bolts on top to clear the edge. Once you have one bolt free, the rest follow easily.
I re-watched the video. Pay close attention around the 15:00 minute mark. First, one bolt on top clears the ridge. Then, at the bottom around 15:03 you can see how I turn the strut assembly and the bushing can then clear the triangle plate. This is possible because the top of the strut is now partially out over the ridge and can move more freely.
@@2001JaguarXK8 Ah! That note on getting one bolt clear makes sense. I was trying to do that very thing but just couldn’t get it. Ended up pulling the wishbone bolt. Then it was clear sailing.
I don't think it is overkill. Does not requires so much effort and might provides somewhat better contact. Anyone with a little time and passion for detail will dedicate time for that.
The revised Uros may be better than the previous yellow ones, I have not used them personally and could not confirm. So far I am very happy with Steve's mounts - they fit perfectly and the car drives beautifully with them.
I bought mine from SNG Barratt(in 2021), it was not OEM if I remember well, but to be honest they didn't give info about what brand it was. Most likely URO because its yellow...
Hi Steven, the camera I use is Vantrue E1. It is relatively inexpensive, yet has decent resolution (2.7K) and a SONY sensor with very good night-time capabilities. Camera integration with my phone is smooth, reviewing and downloading video clips without any issues. www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0B2WCRPPX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Note: Do not confuse it with the E1 Lite - the Lite version does not have the SONY sensor and is not nearly as good.
Hi, Quick one hopefully, but I dont suppose you know the thickness of the washers for the powerflex bushes? Mine are rusted out and giving me different thicknesses on each.
Oh, interesting! I did not suspect that those could rust to that extent, but good to know that this is an issue. How long have you had yours on the vehicle? I will take a wheel off and measure a washer in place, as it is installed along the fulcrum bolt. Can send you pictures. Please email me at "x100.jaguar.xk8 at gmail.com" By the way, the thickness of the outer washers does not matter, but the thickness of the inner ones has to be exact (the ones closer to the subframe).
I measured the thickness of the Powerflex washers - they are exactly 2mm (two millimetres) thick. I took a picture with the measuring tape, feel free to email me here at the channel contact email and I can forward you the pic. Cheers!
@@2001JaguarXK8 Hi, Apologies I hadn't realised you replied! I don't have the washers anymore as I threw them away, recently found out Powerflex will send out entirely new parts if asked! The new washers received match your measurement I don't believe you will see any issues with rusting washers, UK climate and all that! They were on the car before myself or the owner before me had it, so 12 years+ at least.
Welcome back, William. The best way to determine the overall caster combo between the left and right side is to find a crowned road that you can drive in the same direction on both lanes of. See if it drifts naturally to one side or the other. Normally in North America we drive on two lane roads that are crowned so they fall off to the right. To counteract this your caster should be a bit greater on the right side. My 'XK8 Bible' that may be Googled goes into detail on this.
Hi Gary, thank you! I've been more busy driving lately, rather than repairing/working on the car :) I completely missed reading the bible in advance. Did so now and I understand your explanation. Interestingly, I find myself a lot of time on the highway, in the left-most lane (3+ lane highways here in the GTA). Here in Canada this lane is crowned to the left and the car tends to gradually drift to the left. From what I understand, if I want to counteract this, I would need my left caster angle to be greater than the right (sort of the opposite of what Jaguar recommends for North America). I'll see what the caster readings are now once I get my fresh alignment check. After that I may have to fine-tune :)
Great video, especially the tips on anti-seize coating on NGK plugs as well as the specifications for Iridium. Here's the kicker: owning both a 2001 XK8 and a supercharged 2001 XKR, I changed the XKR spark plugs last weekend and was astonished to find NGK PRF5G-11E (Laser Platinum) items that appear to have been there from the factory. Gaps far exceeded the .043" tolerance at 52k miles. Oil had leaked into some of the ignition coils that required a bit of cleanup. You may have discovered that your engine has also been harboring some older standard plugs or perhaps the tolerances were beyond spec.
Thank you for your feedback and sharing your experience! Very interesting that at relatively low miles (52k) you found such discrepancy in the spark plug gapping. I didn't remove any of my spark plugs, due to the low mileage on my car, but now I wonder if I should check them out nonetheless.
I actually may get back at the led lights/flasher today. I put all bulbs in, then got to messing with the supercharger. If I can put it back together today, i will show you which flasher and location i used. Went through every method on my other vehicles. The flasher is the absolutely easiest, plug and play I found. Stay tuned. Great videos you have by the way
As others have commented. Both normal and good👍. #1 is The ECU compartment fan. #2 is the flyby wire/throttle body motor actuators twitching and calibrating. Worry if you cant hear either of them on an X100
Thank you, John, I now got used to the sound and it doesn't surprise me anymore :) It is reassuring to see further confirmation that this is expected behaviour, ty!
Yes, they don't list anything explicitly for Jaguar, but from what I remember when I did my research across forums, there were people saying that Energy do have mount isolators which actually match the exact dimensions of the isolators we need. I wish I had saved those posts, but at the end I would still recommend going with the custom-made products by Steve Davis or Peter Hobman. I am super happy with Steve's kit.
Hi William. Ive been enjoying your videos. Nice work. I enjoyed your attention to detail ref clocking andlLike you, (as you Know) actively seek to get it right/factory standard where possible regardless of the level of impact on the completed installation. It is MUCH harder than most would imagine to re align the damper orientation after the springs have been decompressed. And although possible using a bar through the lower damper bush, the spherical sleeve bushes can easily be strained by such action and i wouldn't recomend it. So I am 100% behind you on getting the top plate to damper alignment as close as possible before decompressing.👍 Finest regards John
John, I really appreciate you taking the time to comment! I've watched the majority of your videos and I think I've been influenced (in a great way) when it comes to my approach to the XK8. My goal here was to try and keep the car as close as possible to how it was originally assembled at the factory (re: clocking). And yes, not keen on applying twisting force to the spherical bushes in order to realign the assembly after the spring has been decompressed. Cheers!
Im getting the “check tail lights” warning signal after changing the rear led bulbs. So i was wondering if you got that code, and how did you fix it. Im thinking to change the relay to a led relay.
Ah, yes, I do get the warning now that the bulbs are LEDs. I clear the message every time I start the car and the orange light doesn't bother me, but the light is constantly there as I drive. I was not aware of a method for solving this with a relay, can you point me in the right direction?
The Trac Off on my '96 is similarly affected. It feels like the button doesn't push in properly, like it's a mechanical issue rather than just a poor contact but I doubt it's due to dirt and dust accumulating in there. No problems with my '96 X300 switches.
Thank you for this feedback! Do you think the same could be achieved with "Electronic Parts Cleaner"? The electronic parts cleaner doesn't have a smell and does not leave any residue behind.
@@2001JaguarXK8 All thermoplastics in car parts are different. DeOxit Gold is designed primary for electronics, specifically switch and connector contacts. You should test it on your application first. Here's what the maker says. Compatibility: With our DeoxIT® Fantastic Four; DeoxIT® D-Series, DeoxIT® Gold G-Series, DeoxIT® Shield S-Series and DeoxIT® Fader F-Series, they are offered in 100% solutions, and standard 5% solutions. When using the 100% formulations (including our 100% sprays) it is very rare that they will cause any adverse effects on plastics - except if similar to the example above. When using one of our sprays (5%) it is possible to have compatibility issues. We always recommend testing on sensitive parts or components before wide scale use. Many years ago we used the Dupont® Freon TF solvents in the sprays to provide the flushing action. This product provided excellent compatibility for all materials. Unfortunately, we had to discontinue its use due to ozone depletion issues. Currently we offer two spray configurations; Part Nos.: D5S-6 (D5S-6P), G5S-6, S5S-6, F5S-H6 utilizing flammable solvents (flushing action, slow evaporating). Compatible with just about all materials - to date we have not found any issues with compatibility. Part Nos.: DN5S-6N, GN5S-6N, SN5S-6N, GX5S-6N utilize the non-flammable solvent/propellant (quick dry/non-drip and fast evaporating). The non-flammable sprays are a continuous evolution to work with the manufacturers to produce ozone safe solvents and propellants with the best possible materials compatibility. We are currently on the forth generation of solvents/propellants (Freon, 141b, HFC-245fa and now the SOLSTICE® PF). Known issues: In the 2000’s when we were using the 141b solvent, we noticed compatibility with some acrylics/plastics, especially ones under some stress when formed. For example, if you search the web "WBT 0645W Stackable Angled Banana Connector", you will see an audio connector with an acrylic coating. When this connector was manufactured, it was coated (under stress) with an acrylic. When you applied the DN5S-6 (our non-flammable spray at the time), which used the 141b solvent, it would crack the plastic under stress. Solution at the time: Use only the 100% DeoxIT®. Solution now: Our new DN5S-6N uses the Honeywell SOLSTICE® PF, which will not crack the plastic. Our new non-flammable sprays are not perfect, however, they are significantly better with compatibility of most materials. Again, on sensitive applications/materials, please test for compatibility and/or use the 100% solutions. Compatibility with Varnishes and semi-cured plastics: DeoxIT® (100% liquids and sprays) is not compatible with varnishes and semi-cured plastics. Keep away from motor windings and other similar parts. The coating on the wire is meant to protect the wire from shorting with other wires. No cleaning products should be used on the windings, they will degrade the coating.
Could it be simply lack of use. I don't think that I've used those two buttons in particular over the last few years of my ownership. I've never had an issue with the one's I use regularly.
Hi Phil, this may very well be the leading cause. Based on my conversation with the previous owner, the hazard lights switch hasn't been used in the last 10+ years. I suspect the same holds true for the Trac Off button (the previous owner was a retired gentleman). I will make it a habit to press those buttons now and then just so that they see some use :) As you said, the buttons which are used on a regular basis don't seem to have any problems.
Hi Gary, 73'000 kilometres - essentially 45'000 miles. Compressed air is a good idea, I hadn't thought of it. Do you think it may end up forcing small debris particles further in (making things worse)? I am not familiar with the structure/build at the back of the buttons.
@@2001JaguarXK8 In my experience compressed air is pretty effective at cleaning vertically oriented switches, because it's usually just fine dust. Switches on the lower horizontal portion of console are prone to being fouled by liquid spills and/or things falling from the sky (if a cabrio). These must be disassembled and cleaned using IPA.
But if your shock assy has the proper washers on the lower seating surface the rotating static friction is actually quite low. Your concern is unfounded. These are not delicate items.
I know some cars have additional metal washers. From what I have researched, most cars do not have such washers. Mine certainly does not. And even if said washers reduce the needed twisting force, personally I still would not resort to this approach. This is the beauty of the hobby - everyone can choose to take different roads with their own vehicle. This is my journey and I am documenting what makes sense for my particular vehicle.
Great video! I had the same problem with my upper strut mounts. However, I decided to buy the original Jaguar ones, which costed around EUR 300. Also I Share your view that the position of the spring is necassary to avoid unwished noises! Did you forget to Consider Part MJA2150BA? Best regards!!!
Hi Steve, sticking to the original Jag parts is commendable! How long have you had them on your vehicle now? I hope they provide you with countless years of trouble-free enjoyment. I did clean and rejuvenate the bump stop, but was unable to remove the discolouration from the component. Not too worried about it because it is completely hidden inside the dust shield.
Hi Phil, I absolutely agree with you - even if a vehicle is spotless on the outside, when the wheel liners are not clean and deep black colour, it diminishes the looks of the car. At first one may think that this is a negligible, small detail, but it makes a huge difference - just like you said. Please see my video called "Cleaning, conditioning, restoring, beautifying plastic parts" - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CqvLBced4qY.html and Starting at 4:22 in "Rear Suspension Bump Stops - Remove, Restore, Reinstall + Prevent Corrosion/Rust": ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CqvLBced4qY.html The products I used for the front wheel liner are the exact same products which I used for the rear bump stops as well (video above).
This is a direct link to the product page. There are many other similar products as well, these are simply the ones I chose. www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09JW3YG22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Your notion is driven purely by cosmetics. Any discontinuity in a boot is better facing downward. Otherwise you have merely created a cup for moisture to collect and degrade the rod end bearing. These are inexpensive parts to just replace, and when you do, coat the boot with Molykote DC4 (silicone grease). This works for all rubber to reduce the propensity for cracking over time.
Hi Gary, dielectric silicone grease is the way to go, indeed! I hear you about creating a potential pocket for moisture to collect when the cracked rubber is facing upwards. If I were using the car on a daily basis and was subjected to UK-like weather conditions, this may not be a desired approach. For my use case I think this tweak makes sense - I don't drive the car in wet conditions, so water is a non-factor for me. In addition, the silicone grease would be able to counteract any potential water accumulation inside the cracks. Like I mentioned in the video - for me personally it's not about buying new parts, regardless of how cheap they are. Prolonging the life of existing original parts brings added pride of ownership.
William, I guess we will need to agree to disagree on some aspects here. Orienting the upper mount and spring in your preferred manner is all well and good, but has no tangible effect. Even after assembling the entire unit it is quite easy after the upper mount is installed in the strut tower and nuts installed to place a rod in the shock lower bushing and rotate it. Just rotate it so the lower spring tail stays tightly against the white plastic stop. Easy peasy.
Hi Steve, by "factory clocking" I refer to the way the spring was installed on my particular vehicle at the factory. I wanted to keep the same orientation. Some time ago John @ ToTheGarage channel asked his subscribers in one of his videos to check their cars about the position of the "tail of the spring" and people with original suspension confirmed that their cars were "clocked" with the tail pointing outwards towards the outside of the car. It was the same case for my vehicle as well. I don't know if that was intentional at the factory, and I do mention in my video that since the top and bottom seating surfaces are flat and parallel to each other, the "clocking" of the spring is a personal choice, same as the orientation of the top mount. Cheers!
Hi Gary, yes indeed, orienting the top mount and the spring in my preferred manner was a personal choice, essentially guided by the way those components were placed at the factory for my particular vehicle - I wanted to keep the same orientation. I hear you on being able to adjust the shock absorber after the fact, but I personally would be hesitant to apply such twisting force to the bushing at the bottom, after the spring is extended and exerting pressure against the mount at the top and the shock absorber at the bottom. I'd rather do it right at the time of assembly and avoid adjustments later. The bottom seating surface and the white plastic stop never came off the spring, they seemed pretty happily stuck there after disassembly and I didn't see a reason to remove them. Kept them in place and they moved together with the spring as one unit.
Yes, definitely. A dangerous process and frankly I'm not sure if it's worth the risk. I addressed this at 3:33 in the video. My recommendation to folks is still take this to a professional and have them do it (at 1:37 in the video).
